Pattern of the Month

Crochet abbreviations:

ss = slip stitch
ch = chain
dc =double crochet
tr = treble crochet
2 tr tog = two treble together - as follows:
Yarn round hook (yrh), insert hook in space and draw through a loop as you would for a normal treble - you have 3 loops on the hook;
yrh and draw through 2 loops continuing as for a normal treble - you have 2 loops on the hook.
Now it becomes a little different. You leave the 2 loops - do not finish the stitch but start a second treble: yrh, insert hook in next space and draw through a loop - you have 4 loops on the hook; yrh and draw through 2 loops - you have 3 loops on the hook; finish the stitch by yrh and draw through remaining 3 loops.
[Editor's note: This is a method of "decreasing" in crochet although that's not why we are doing it in this motif.]

Remember the above are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Editor's note: While writing this I found a simply excellent free form crochet site from James Walters which reflects his own work alongside Sylvia Cosh and has - among other things - some great crochet information. As the author states - the information was originally intended as worksheets for their students - however I found they do offer useful guidance (available in both what I will call "English" as well as "US English"!)

Instructions

Make 4 ch and join with a ss to make a ring.

1st round: 3ch; 11 tr into ring; ss to 3 ch.

2nd round: 3ch; 1 tr into same place as ss; * 2ch, 2tr into next tr, repeat from * to end, finishing with: 2ch, ss to 3rd of 3ch.

3rd round: 3ch; 2tr into first 2ch space; * 2ch, 1tr into same space, work 2 tr tog (see abbreviations) with first leg in the same space and second leg in the next space, 1tr into same space, repeat from * to end, finishing with: 2ch 1tr into same space, ss to 3rd of 3ch.
[Editor's note: I found this a bit confusing. see if this helps you: in one individual space, you start with the 2nd leg of a "2 tr tog" followed by 1 tr, 2ch, 1 tr, then the 1st leg of a "2 tr tog" - the 2nd leg moves you into the next space.]

4th round: * 1ch, 5tr in space, 1ch, 1dc into 2 tr tog, repeat from * to end, finishing with ss into ss of previous round.

Fasten off.

This completes your first motif.

Make 7 for the centre and then 48, 44, 44, and 46 in the other colours.

Making up

Join 2 shells to each adjacent motif, using the following pattern as a guide to placement. It is a good idea to sew this together gradually as you go along - you can stop any time you feel it's big enough, leave the throw as a circular shape, or continue with the pattern to make a rectangle.

Sew in all ends.
Press lightly on the wrong side with a warm iron and a damp cloth.

Materials

4ply/Fingering yarn in 5 autumnal colours. You will need about 1 ball for the centre and about 8 balls for each of the other 4 colours.

One number 11 (3mm) crochet hook.

Tension

One motif measures about 4 inches in diameter.

Size matters

Approximately 52 by 60 inches.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Making the clock

If you want to make the whole body of the clock yourself from scratch then you can buy the mechanism and hands from Maplins (or elsewhere I suspect) either online or from one of their shops for about £5. However, having done this to refurbish my old clock, I found that IKEA sell the entire clock (including mechanism and hands) for under £2.
In the end I made a couple of these clocks - using my old IKEA clock and a new one. Here is what I did.

The clock face

First of all - it is very important that the clock face that you knit is not too thick - if it is then it will stop the hands going round. This is because we are using a supplied module where the height of the hands above the clock face is pre-defined. I have not thought of any clever way of increasing the height, so - make sure your knitting is as fine as possible. The hour hand is the one closest to the clock face, and it is also the shortest - so you can cope better with increased texture towards the rim of the clock, for example, to create the markers for the hours, which could be, for example, buttons, knitted bobbles, or embellishments such as rhinestones or silk roses.
[Editor's note: I actually trimmed the minutes and second hands as they were not high enough to pass over the silk rose embellishments.]

The clock face is knitted from the pattern for the smaller table mat (the pattern for the mats is given in its entirety below).

I stopped after row 47 of the smaller mat and continued working each section of the mat with short rows before casting off - this helped make the face rounder, minimising the pointed edges:
48th round: * P23; turn the work and work back: sl1, k22; turn the work again: slip the first stitch and pass the last stitch from the previous set on the right hand needle over the first stitch; continue loosely casting off the next 22sts purlwise; sl1, k1, psso; repeat from * to end.
Fasten off.

However, once I had finished, I found the whole thing was very slightly too big. So in the end I had to adapt it to make it even smaller, because I did not want to change to a finer yarn.

Carefully take the clock to pieces. The following relates specifically to the clocks I used.

The plastic front cover is secured to the outer rim by moulded plastic clips which should be released at the back - I managed to release them easily enough using my thumbnail. I then pushed the front face further upwards from the back using a small screwdriver or steel knitting needle - push at each clip in turn a few millimetres at a time until the front face comes free.
Remove the 3 hands by simply pulling (gently) away from the central shank attached to the mechanism. Note that shank is made up of concentric rings, with each hand attached to a different size of ring. The hour hand is the lowest, and sits on the largest ring.
Next, remove the clock face. In these budget clocks the face is simply robust paper, and I managed to peel the paper away from the securing sticky tape without damaging it. I turned the paper over to make a plain clock face, and glued my knitted face to it using tacky glue, and left it under weights to dry overnight.
[Editor's note: If you want to embroider the hour markers, then do so before you attach the backing.]

Add any non-knitted embellishments to mark the hours, and reassemble the clock.
Push the clock face well down on the clock mechanism - add glue in the centre if necessary.
Make sure the hour markers are correctly oriented with respect to the way the clock will hang on the wall (ie 12 at the top!). Hour first, minutes next and finally the second hand. Point all the hands to 12 to start with.
[Editor's note: If you want you can paint the hands to match your colour scheme. I would leave the hour and minute hands in black (or white) as they need to be a sharp contrast to the face colour. I thought it might be fun to paint glue on the hands and dip in sparkles for my pink clock. Whatever you decide, do not add anything that will make the hands too heavy, otherwise it will disrupt the function of the clock mechanism.]
Push the plastic cover back into place, allowing the plastic clips to click into position.

Now you are ready to embellish the surrounding frame of your clock. Here is an opportunity for your own imagination - I knitted a fancy strip, which I tried to glue it (slightly stretched) around the rim edge with tacky glue, holding the surround in place with clothes pegs until the glue dried. However this did not work well and I ended by drilling tiny holes around the back edge of the plastic surround and securing the edge by sewing through them.

Knitted frame for the clock

This is a simple knitted strip, using a technique I learned at a workshop with Fi Morris.
It is garter stitch, so the strip is fairly stretchy; it can snuggly form itself around a curved surface, and it has an elegant wavy edge to suit a round "romantic" styled clock.

Cast on 12 sts and knit 2 rows, then begin the short row pattern:

Row 1: K10; wrap the next stitch by bringing the yarn to the front of the work, slip the next stitch on to the right hand needle, take the yarn to the back of the work, slip the stitch back on to the left hand needle; turn the work.
Row 2 (and alternate rows): Knit to end of row.
Row 3: K9; wrap the next stitch; turn the work.
Row 5: K8; wrap the next stitch; turn the work.
Row 7: K7; wrap the next stitch; turn the work.
Row 9: K6; wrap the next stitch; turn the work.
Row 11: K5; wrap the next stitch; turn the work.
Row 13: K4; wrap the next stitch; turn the work.
Row 15: K3; wrap the next stitch; turn the work.
Row 17: K2; wrap the next stitch; turn the work.
Row 19: K1; wrap the next stitch; turn the work.
Row 20: Knit to end of row (that is knit 1 stitch).

Then knit across all 12 sts for 3 rows.
[Editor's note: The slipped stitches are elongated when knitted, and form part of the pattern.]

Repeat these 23 rows until the strip is as long as you need.

My clock was about 30 inches round and I did 40 repeats in 4ply yarn using 2½mm needles to fit around it. I cast on with waste yarn and grafted the sts together to make a ring before stretching it over the clock and glueing in place.

Instructions

To make the pink clock face I worked the smaller mat using a vintage 4ply synthetic yarn. These are the full instructions for the table mats here (in case you want to make table mats).

Large place mat

Cast on 8 sts, (2 sts on one needle and 3 sts on each of 2 needles), and join in a round.

1st and 2nd round: Knit.
3rd round: * Yfd, k1; repeat from * to end. [16 sts]
4th and alternate rounds: Knit.
[Editor's note: Although these instructions say "alternate rounds" please note that SOME alternate (even numbered) rounds are not knitted plain. I have highlighted these exceptional rows in bold type.]
5th round: * Yfd, k2; repeat from * to end. [24 sts]
7th round: * Yfd, k3; repeat from * to end. [32 sts]

Continue to increase in this manner having one more knit stitch in each repeat until the round 'yfd, K25' has been worked.

52nd round: Knit. [208 sts]
53rd round: * Yfd, k1; yfd, k25; repeat from * to end. [224 sts]
54th and alternate rounds: Knit.
55th round: * Yfd, k3; yfd, sl1, k1, psso; k23; repeat from * to end. [232 sts]
57th round: * Yfd, k5; yfd, sl1, k1, psso; k22; repeat from * to end. [240 sts]
59th round: * Yfd, k7; yfd, sl1, k1, psso; k21; repeat from * to end. [248 sts]
61st round: * Yrn, p9; yon, sl1, k1, psso; k20; repeat from * to end. [256 sts]
62nd round: * P11, k21; repeat from * to end.
63rd round: * Yrn, p11; yon, sl1, k1, psso; k19; repeat from * to end. [264 sts]
64th round: * P13, k20; repeat from * to end.
65th round: * Yfd, k2; (yfd, k2tog) 5 times; k1, yfd, sl1, k1, psso; k18; repeat from * to end. [272 sts]
66th round: Knit.
67th round: * Yrn, p15; yon, sl1, k1, psso; k17; repeat from * to end. [280sts]
68th round: * P17, k18; repeat from * to end.
69th round: * Yrn, p17; yon, sl1, k1, psso; k16; repeat from * to end. [288sts]
70th and alternate rounds: Knit.
71st round: * Yfd, k19; yfd, sl1, k1, psso; k15; repeat from * to end. [296 sts]
73rd round: * Yfd, (k2tog, yfd, k1, yfd, k2tog, k3) twice; k2tog, yfd, k1, yfd, k2tog; yfd, sl1, k1, psso; k14; repeat from * to end. [304 sts]
75th round: * Yfd, (k2tog, yfd, k3, yfd, k2tog, k1) twice; k2tog, yfd, k3, yfd, k2tog; yfd, sl1, k1, psso; k13; repeat from * to end. [312 sts]
77th round: * Yfd, k2tog; (yfd, k5, yfd, sl1, k2tog, psso) twice; yfd, k5, yfd, k2tog; yfd, sl1, k1, psso; k12; repeat from * to end. [320 sts]
79th round: * (Yfd, k3, yfd, k2tog, k1, k2tog) 3 times; yfd, k3, yfd, sl1, k1, psso; k11; repeat from * to end. [328 sts]
81st round: * (Yfd, k5, yfd, sl1, k2tog, psso) 3 times; yfd, k5, yfd, sl1, k1, psso; k10; repeat from * to end. [336 sts]
83rd round: * Yfd, k31, yfd. sl1, k1, psso, k9; repeat from * to end. [344 sts]
85th round: * Yrn, p33, yon, sl1, k1. psso; k8; repeat from * to end. [352 sts]
86th round: * P35, k9; repeat from * to end.
87th round: * Yrn, p35, yon, sl1, k1. psso; k7; repeat from * to end. [360 sts]
88th round: Knit.
89th round: * Yfd, k2; (yfd, k2 tog) 17 times; k1, yfd, sl1, k1, psso, k6; repeat from * to end. [368 sts]
90th round: Knit.
91st round: * Yrn, p39; yon, sl1, k1, psso, k5; repeat from * to end. [376 sts]
92nd round: * P41, k6; repeat from * to end.
93rd round: * Yrn, p41; yon, sl1, k1, psso, k4; repeat from * to end. [384 sts]
94th round: Knit.
95th round: * Yrn, p43; yon, sl1, k1, psso, k3; repeat from * to end. [392 sts]
96th round: * P45, k4; repeat from * to end.
97th round: * Yrn, p45; yon, sl1, k1, psso, k2; repeat from * to end. [400 sts]
98th round: * P47, k3; repeat from * to end.
99th round: * Yfd, k2; (yfd, k2tog) 22 times; k1, yfd, sl1, k1, psso, k1; repeat from * to end. [408 sts]
100th round: Knit.
101st round: * Yrn, p49; yon, sl1, k1, psso; repeat from * to end. [416 sts]
102nd round: * P51, k1; repeat from * to end.
103rd round: * Yrn, p51, yon, k1; repeat from * to end. [432 sts]
104th round: Knit.

Cast off loosely.

Smaller side mat

Cast on 8 sts, (2 sts on one needle and 3 sts on each of 2 needles), and join in a round.

1st and 2nd round: Knit.
3rd round: * Yfd, k1; repeat from * to end. [16 sts]
4th and alternate rounds: Knit.
[Editor's note: Although these instructions say "alternate rounds" please note that SOME alternate (even numbered) rounds are not knitted plain. I have highlighted these exceptional rows in bold type.]
5th round: * Yfd, k2; repeat from * to end. [24 sts]
7th round: * Yfd, k3; repeat from * to end. [32 sts]

Continue to increase in this manner having one more knit stitch in each repeat until the round 'yfd, K12' has been worked.

26th round: Knit. [104 sts]
27th round: * Yfd, k1; yfd, k12; repeat from * to end. [120 sts]
28th and alternate rounds: Knit.
29th round: * Yfd, k3; yfd, sl1, k1, psso; k10; repeat from * to end. [128 sts]
31st round: * Yfd, k5; yfd, sl1, k1, psso; k9; repeat from * to end. [136 sts]
33rd round: * Yfd, k7; yfd, sl1, k1, psso; k8; repeat from * to end. [144 sts]
35th round: * Yfd, p9; yon, sl1, k1, psso; k7; repeat from * to end. [152 sts]
36th round: * P11, k8; repeat from * to end.
37th round: * Yfd, k2; (yfd, k2tog) 4 times; k1, yfd, s11, k1, psso; k6; repeat from * to end. [160 sts]
38th round: Knit.
39th round: * Yrn, p13; yon, s11, k1, psso; k5; repeat from * to end. [168 sts]
40th round: * P15, k6; repeat from * to end.
41st round: * (Yfd, k1, yfd, s11, k1, psso, k2, k2tog) twice; yfd, k1, yfd, s11, k1, psso; k4; repeat from * to end. [176 sts]
42nd round: Knit.
43rd round: * (Yfd, k3, yfd, s11, k1, psso, k2tog) twice; yfd, k3, yfd, s11, k1, psso; k3; repeat from * to end. [184 sts]
44th round: Knit.
45th round: * Yrn, p19, yon, sl1, k1, psso, k2; repeat from * to end. [192 sts]
46th round: * P21, k3; repeat from * to end.
47th round: *Yfd, k2; (yfd, k2tog) 9 times, k1, yfd, sl1, k1, psso, k1; repeat from * to end. [200 sts]

---------------->>>NOTE<<<-------------------
To make the clock face the right size for my clock - using my vintage yarn - I stopped knitting the table mat at this point. Please refer to the additional instructions telling you how I executed the finishing rows for the clock face.
-------------->>>End of Note<<<----------------

48th round: Knit.
49th round: * Yrn, p23; yon, s11, k1, psso; repeat from * to end. [208 sts]
50th round: * P25, k1; repeat from * to end.
51st round: * Yrn, p25; yon, k1, psso; repeat from * to end. [224 sts]
52nd round: Knit.

Cast off loosely.

To Make Up

Sew in all ends.
Damp and pin out to measurements.

Materials

2 x 20g balls Coats Chain Mercer-Crochet No 20 in selected colour to knit the table mats.
**

To knit the clock: one 50g ball of fine yarn (3 or 4ply or finer) in your chosen colour.

Set of 4 No 14 needles pointed both ends for the clock face or table mats.

A pair of No 12 (2¾mm) needles to knit the clock face surround.

Embellishments available from John Lewis branches or
knitandsew.co.uk.

Tension

Original cotton yarn knits 15 rows to one inch.**

Size matters

Largeer place mat: 14in diameter;
smaller side mat: 7in diameter

Abbreviations

yfwd/yrn/yon: "yarn forward"/"yarn round needle" /"yarn over needle"; make a stitch by passing the yarn over the needle.
sl1: slip one stitch.
psso: pass the slipped stitch(es) over.
k2tog: knit 2 stitches together.

**A word on the wool.

I used a vintage 4ply synthetic mix of "unknown origin" to knit the clock. The side mat worked up sligtly too large for my clock face, so I had to adpat the pattern (see instructions).

The recommended Coats crochet yarn would be suitable, and help ensure the clock face was not too thick.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
This can be very frustrating with lace patterns.
If you have any problems with this pattern, do not hesitate to and I will try and assist.

Abbreviations

MB: make bobble by knitting into the front, back, front, back, front and back of next stitch, then pass 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th and 6th sts over 1st stitch.
[Editor's note: I know - this sounds impossible - but it is achievable. This is how the bobbles are created in the original "Debbie Bliss Square"]

m1: make a stitch by picking up the loop between the sts and knitting into the back of it.

C4B: "cable 4 back"; slip the next 2sts onto a cable needle and leave at the back of the work, k2, then k2 from cable needle.

C4F: "cable 4 front"; slip the next 2sts onto a cable needle and leave at the front of the work, k2, then k2 from cable needle.

C6B: "cable 6 back"; slip the next 3sts onto a cable needle and leave at the back of the work, k3, then k3 from cable needle.

T3B: "transpose 3 back"; slip the next (purl) st onto a cable needle and leave at the back of the work, k2, then p1 from cable needle.

T3F: "transpose 3 front"; slip the next 2 (knit) sts onto a cable needle and leave at the front of the work, p1, then k2 from cable needle.

T4B: "transpose 4 back"; slip the next 2 (purl) sts onto a cable needle and leave at the back of the work, k2, then p2 from cable needle.

T4F: "transpose 4 front"; slip the next 2 (knit) sts onto a cable needle and leave at the back of the work, p2, then k2 from cable needle.

T5B: "transpose 5 back"; slip the next 2 (purl) sts onto a cable needle and leave at the back of the work, k3, then p2 from cable needle.

T5F: "transpose 5 front"; slip the next 3 (knit) sts onto a cable needle and leave at the front of the work, p2, then k3 from cable needle.

k2tog = decrease a stitch by knitting 2 sts together.

Chain and Vines Square

This square begins and ends with a simple garter stitch border.
The following are the pattern rows used in this square:

Row 1 (right side): K6, p7, T3B, p7, C6B, p7, T3F, p7, k6.
Row 2 (wrong side): K13, p2, k8, p6, k8, p2, k13.
Row 3: K6, p6, T3B, p6, T5B, T5F, p6, T3F, p6, k6.
Row 4: K12, p2, k7, p3, k4, p3, k7, p2, k12.
Row 5: K6, p5, T3B, p5, T5B, p4, T5F, p5, T3F, p5, k6.
Row 6: K11, p2, k1, MB, k4, p3, k8, p3, k4, MB, k1, p2, k11.
Row 7: K6, p5, T3F, p5, k3, p4; pick up loop lying between st just worked and next st and MB; p1, then pass bobble st over the p st just worked, p3; k3, p5, T3B, p5, k6.
Row 8: K12, p2, k5, p3, k8, p3, k5, p2, k12.
Row 9: K6, p6, T3F, p4, T5F, p4, T5B, p4, T3B, p6, k6.
Row 10: K13, p2, k6, p3, k4, p3, k6, p2, k13.
Row 11: K6, p7, T3F, p5, T5F, T5B, p5, T3B, p7, k6.
Row 12: K12, MB, k1, p2, k7, p6, k7, p2, k1, MB, k12.

Chain and Vines Square instructions:

Cast on 45 sts and knit 4 rows garter stitch (knit every row).
Next Row (increase row): K8; ( m1, k5) 7 times; k2. [52 sts]

Next Row (wrong side): work 10th row of the pattern.
Next Row: work 11th row of the pattern.
Next Row: work 12th row of the pattern.

Now work rows 1-12 four times, then rows 1 and 2 again.

Next Row (decrease row): K7; ( k2tog, k4) 7 times; k3. [47 sts]
Knit 4 more rows in garter stitch.

Cast off knitwise from the wrong side of the work.

Lattice Square:

This square begins and ends with a garter stitch bobble border, in the same design as the original Debbie Bliss Square.
The following are the pattern rows used in this square:

Row 1 (right side): K3, MB, k3; p7, k2, p8, C4B, p8, k2, p7; k3, MB, k3.
Row 2 (wrong side): K14, p2, k8, p4, k8, p2, k14.
Row 3: K7, p7, T4F, p4, T4B, T4F, p4, T4B, p7, k7.
Row 4: K16; (p2, k4) 3 times; p2, k16.
Row 5: K7, p9, T4F, T4B, p4, T4F, T4B, p9, k7.
Row 6: K18, p4, k8, p4, k18.
Row 7: K3, MB, k3; p11, C4B, p4; pick up loop lying between st just worked and next st and MB; p1, then pass bobble st over the p st just worked, p3; C4F, p11; k3, MB, k3.
Row 8: As row 6.
Row 9: K7, p9, T4B, T4F, p4, T4B, T4F, p9, k7.
Row 10: As row 4.
Row 11: K7, p7, T4B, p4, T4F, T4B, p4, T4F, p7, k7.
Row 12: As row 2.
Row 13: K7, p7, k2, p4; pick up loop lying between st just worked and next st and MB; p1, then pass bobble st over the p st just worked, p3; C4B, p4; pick up loop lying between st just worked and next st and MB; p1, then pass bobble st over the p st just worked, p3; k2, p7,k7.
Row 14: K14, p2, k8, p4, k8, p2, k14.

Lattice Square instructions:

Cast on 47 sts and knit 4 rows garter stitch (knit every row).
Next Row (right side): K3; (MB, k4) 8 times; MB, k3.
Knit 3 more rows in garter stitch.
Next Row (increase row): K11; ( m1, k6) 4 times; m1, k12. [52 sts]

Next Row (wrong side): work 2nd row of the pattern.

Now work the pattern rows as follows:

Rows 1-14: Work rows 1 to 14 inclusive.
Rows 15-38: Work rows 3 to 14 inclusive, twice.
Rows 39-48: Work rows 3 to 12 inclusive.
Rows 49: Work row 1.

Next Row (decrease row): K11; ( k2tog, k5) 4 times; k2tog, k11. [47 sts]
Knit 4 more rows in garter stitch.
Next Row (right side): K3; (MB, k4) 8 times; MB, k3.
Knit 2 more rows in garter stitch.

Cast off knitwise from the wrong side of the work.

Making up

Sew the squares together in 5 rows of 8 squares each, so the blanket measures approximately 40 inches by 64 inches.
Sew in all ends.
Work a crochet or knitted border around the whole thing - if you feel up to it after all that knitting!

Materials

One ball of double knitting yarn at about 100m or 108 yards in length makes about 2 squares.

Rowan are supporting this initiative but you are not compelled to use their wools - you are encouraged to use wool from your stash.

Size matters

8 inch squares making up a 40x64 inch blanket.

Tension

General DK tension: 22 stitches and 30 rows to 4 inches over stocking stitch. or gauge to make the 8 inch square.

These bobble squares: 23 sts to 4 inches using 3¾mm needles.

A Word
on the Wool.

Unfortunately my "stash" is not overflowing with left-over double knitting wools of the right type to use for this project.

In the end I used some Phildar yarns that I had intended for another long-abandoned project. These yarns are robust and high quality - about 25% wool and superwash. Therefore - both warm and practical.

The yarn used for the bobble squares is Oxygene which is apparently "anti-bacterial" (!) - 25% wool, 35% chlorofibre, 40% acrylic - and knits to a tension of 23stsand 30 rows to 4 inches on 3½mm needles.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern there is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Pattern inspirations for the squares

I used my squares in combination with the "Debbie Bliss Square" shown below.

My designs above are inspired by her other bobble pattern designs, which I have adapted to make a double knitting wool weight 8 inch patch for this blanket.
Every alternate square in my blanket is knitted plain. Above is (a section of) the completed blanket. I did a rather pleasing edging adapted from a stitch used as part of a sweater pattern.

Note that my "flag dishcloth" square (POM February 2007) could also be adapted to make an 8 inch square. Use a DK wool that knits to 22 ro 23 sts to 4 inches. Use 3½mm needles and cast on 45 sts instead of 49, knitting a 3st garter stitch border instead of 5. Repeat the 10 row pattern 5 times in all, and knit a 6-8 row border to start and finish your square, making up the 8 inches in length.
You could knit other guernsey patterns for as a theme for different squares - like a sampler. But - remember to check your tension. Your squares need to be about 45 sts by 62 rows in st st.

Rather Pleasing Edging

The method for the basic stitch pattern is as follows, assuming using a combination of DK and extra-thick chunky type wool, and working back and forth across the rows on two needles:

Row 1 (right side): Using DK and suitable needles (eg 4mm), knit.
Row 2 (wrong side): Using DK, purl.
Row 3 (right side): Using chunky contrast, change to large needles, (eg 7mm or more), slip1, knit one to end of row (you are knitting alternate stitches - you need to ease the stitches in order to slip them).
Row 4 (wrong side): Using chunky contrast, knit the sts you knitted on the previous row, and slip the sts you slipped.
Row 5 (right side): Change back to DK and smaller needles and knit every st across row.
Row 6 (wrong side): Using DK, purl.

When edging the blanket, I picked up sts around the whole blanket, and I worked from the right side for all rows, so on row 4, I purled the chunky sts, and all all other rows were knitted. To achieve this with such a large number of sts round the whole blanket, I started every row with a new ball of yarn, and worked in sections, completing all rows and casting off for a section before picking up the next set of sts. I did not break the multiple yarn strands between sections.

Cabling without a Needle

It was while I was making the Estonian socks from the Interweave Knits Sock book that I first became aware that this was a bona fide knitting technique. Before that, I always thought it was just some dexterous manipulation that I was forced into when knitting on the train and found that I had forgotten to take my cable needle with me. Now it seems to be the technique of the moment, with a Beyond the Basics lesson on it in the 2009 autumn issue of Interweave Knits, plus a full explanation in Knitting Daily.

It works like this:- for example, when cabling over 4 stitches as in C4B above, work to just before the stitches to be cabled. With the yarn at the back of the work, slip all four stitches purlwise to the right-hand needle. Bring the left-hand needle to the back of the work and insert it into the backs the two sts further from the left hand needle.

Between the left thumb and forefinger, pinch the base of the four stitches firmly. Pull the right-hand needle completely free of all four stitches; half will be on the left-hand needle; half will be free for a moment. Maintaining the front/back positions as established, quickly reinsert the right-hand needle into the free stitches at the front of the work. Make sure all the stitches are seated correctly on the needle; if they are held firmly, the stitches won't have twisted or moved at all during the time that they were dropped.

Finally slip the two stitches on the right-hand needle back to the left-hand needle. The stitches are now crossed over. Knit all four sts as usual to complete the C4B.

This works well for cabling with smaller numbers of stitches (less than 6) and proved to be very useful for me while knitting these squares.

Larger doily

Start with 10ch, join with slip stitch to form a ring.

Pass loops on to knitting needle thus:
* insert hook into next ch and pull loop through, pass loop on to knitting needle; repeat from * 8 times more, dividing the 10 sts over three needles (3 on each of two needles and 4 on one).

1st Round: Knit.
2nd Round (and every alternate up to the 14th round): knit.
The instructions give one repeat of the pattern stitches only and this is repeated 9 times more on every round (10 times in all).

3rd Round: Yfwd, k1.
5th Round: Yfwd, k2.
7th Round: Yfwd, k3.
9th Round: Yfwd, k1, yfwd, k1, k2tog.
11th Round: Yfwd, k1, yfwd, k2, k2tog.
13th Round: Yfwd, k1, yfwd, k3, k2tog.
15th Round: Yfwd, k1, yfwd, k2, yfwd, k2, k2tog.
16th Round: K7, k2tog.
17th Round: Yfwd, k1, yfwd, k2, yfwd, k3, k2tog.

Rep 16th and 17th rounds until 41 st round is completed, having one knit stitch more before k2tog at end of each repeat. [220 sts]

42nd Round (and all even rounds unless otherwise stated): knit

From now on one repeat of pattern stitches is given and is repeated 19 times more (20 times in all).

43rd Round: K10, yfwd, k1, yfwd.
45th Round: K10, yfwd, k3, yfwd.
47th Round: K10, yfwd, k2tog, yfwd, k1, yfwd, slip1, k1, psso, yfwd.
49th Round: Slip1, k1, psso, k6, (k2tog, yfwd) twice, k3, yfwd, slip1, k1, psso, yfwd.
51st Round: Slip1, k1, psso, k4, (k2tog, yfwd) 3 times, k1, yfwd, (slip 1, k1, psso, yfwd) twice.
53rd Round: Slip1, k1, psso, k2, ( k2tog, yfwd) 3 times, k3, yfwd, (slip 1, k1, psso, yfwd) twice.
55th Round: Slip2, k2tog, psso, yfwd, (k2tog, yfwd) 3 times, k1, yfwd, (slip1, k1, psso, yfwd) 3 times.
57th Round: K1, (k2tog, yfwd) 3 times, k3, (yfwd, slip1, k1, psso) 3 times.
59th Round: Slip the last st of each right needle on to left needle, slip 1, k2tog, psso, yfwd, (k2tog, yfwd) 3 times, k1, yfwd, (slip 1, k1, psso, yfwd) 3 times.

61st Round: K1, (k2tog,yfwd) 3 times, k1, k twice into next st, k1, (yfwd, slip 1, k1, psso) 3 times.
62nd Round: Slip the last stitch of each right needle on to left needle, slip 1, k2tog, psso, (k2tog, yfwd) twice, (k3, yfwd) twice, slip1, k1, psso, yfwd, slip1, k1, psso.

63rd Round: K8, k5 sts into next st, k7.

65th Round: Slip the last stitch of each right needle on to left needle, slip 1, k2tog, psso, k2tog, yfwd, k4, yfwd, k2tog, yfwd, k1, yfwd, slip1, k1, psso, yfwd, k4, yfwd, slip1, k1, psso.

67th Round: Slip last stitch of each right needle on left needle, slip 1, k2tog, psso, k5, yfwd, k2tog, yfwd, k3, yfwd, slip 1, k1, psso, yfwd, k5.
69th Round: K1, yfwd, slip 1, k1, psso, k1,
(k2tog, yfwd) twice, k5, (yfwd, slip1, k1, psso) twice, k1, k2tog, yfwd.

71st Round: K2, yfwd, slip1, k2tog, psso, yfwd, k2tog, yfwd, slip 1, k1, psso, k3, k2tog, yfwd, slip 1, k1, psso, yfwd, slip 1, k2tog, psso, yfwd, k1.
73rd Round: K1, k2tog, yfwd, k1, yfwd, k2tog, yfwd, k1, yfwd, slip 1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, (yfwd, k1, yfwd, slip1, k1, psso) twice.

74th Round: Knit.

Crochet Edging

75th Round: Slip last stitch of each right needle on to left needle. Insert hook into place near stitch just transferred and pull working thread through, * (insert hook into next 3 sts as if to knit, thread over and pull through, thread over and pull through 2 loops - dc made - slip the 3 worked sts from needle, 3ch) twice;
(insert hook into next 2 sts and make a dc as before, 7ch) twice;
insert hook into next 3 sts and make a dc as before;
(7ch, insert hook into next 2 sts and make a dc as before) twice;
3ch, insert hook into next 3 sts and make a dc as before, 3ch.
Repeat from *, ending with 1 slip stitch into first dc.
Fasten off.

[Editor's note: This final crochet row does take a long time - it is fiddly and took me well over an hour and a half of fiddling. However, you can be encouraged by the fact that this is your very last step to finishing - once completed, it's all over.]

Smaller doily

Start with 8ch, join with slip stitch to form a ring. Pass loop on to knitting needle and continue as for larger doily, noting that repeat is worked 7 times more (8 times in all) instead of 9.

Divide the 8 sts, 3 on 2 needles and 2 on 1.

Work as for larger doily until 29th round is completed.

30th Round: K14, k2tog.
From now on one rep is given and is repeated 11 times more.
31st Round: K9, yfwd, k1, yfwd.
32nd Round: (and all even rounds unless otherwise stated) Knit.
33rd Round: K9, yfwd, k3, yfwd.
35th Round: K9, yfwd, k2tog, yfwd, k1, yfwd, slip1, k1, psso, yfwd.
37th Round: Slip1, k1, psso, k5, (k2tog, yfwd) twice, k3, yfwd, slip1, k1, psso, yfwd.
39th Round: Slip1, k1, psso, k3, ( k2tog, yfwd) 3 times, k1, yfwd, (slip1, k1, psso, yfwd) twice.
41st Round: Slip1, k1, psso, k1, (k2tog, yfwd) 3 times, k3, yfwd, (slip1, k1, psso, yfwd) twice.
43rd Round: Slip1, k2tog, psso, yfwd, (k2tog, yfwd) 3 times, k1, yfwd, (slip1, k1, psso, yfwd) 3 times.

Continue as for larger doily starting from 57th round to end.

Making up

Sew in all ends.
Dampen and pin out to measurements.

Sew beads around edges - or make a set for your side table....

Materials

Coats Mercer Crochet Cotton No 40 (20 gram), 2 balls in selected colour.

1.00 mm (or No 4) steel crochet hook.

Set of four double pointed No 13 (2¼mm).
[Editor's note: these need to be long needles - I managed the larger doily on 8 inch but these were not long enough. You increase from 10 sts to over 400 and it is heart breaking to lose sts at the needles ends - it is essentially not recoverable with a lace pattern like this.]

Size matters

13 inch diameter for larger and 9½ inch for smaller.

Abbreviations

ch: chain
yfwd: yarn forward, or "yarn over"; make a stitch by passing the yarn over the needle.
psso: pass the slipped stitch(es) over
dc: double crochet remembering that this is UK notation, and in the US is referred to as single crochet.

A Word
on the Wool.

The recommended cotton was Coats Mercer Crochet 40. You need a fine thread to get the right drape - not necessarily insect proof but keep extra leaves out of the salad bowl (ones you haven't put in there intentionally...).

Example used Crochet cotton 40 in white for the smaller doily and Anchor Leinen 20 (colour 392, 50g ball: 430m) - a fine linen thread made in Germany. In either English or German websites I can only find the thicker No 10 referenced.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern there is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading. This is particularly annoying with a fine lace pattern.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions

The pattern includes a tea-cosy in the shape of a Christmas Pudding, and a tea-pot stand in the shape of a plate.

Cosy

Using wool double, with No 7 hook and using the brown and tan wools together (to make a tweedy effect), make 4 chain and join into a ring with a slip stitch. Work 8dc into ring.

1st round: (2dc into each dc) 8 times [16 dc]
Mark the end of the round with a coloured thread.
[Editor's note: You just weave a piece of coloured thread between the last and first sts of each round such that you can just pull it out when you have finished.]
2nd round: (2dc in 1dc; 1dc in next dc) 8 times [24 dc]
3rd round: 1dc in next dc all round.
4th round: (2dc in 1dc; 1dc in next 2 dc) 8 times [32 dc]
5th round: (2dc in 1dc; 1dc in next 3dc) 8 times [40 dc]
6th round: (2dc in 1dc; 1dc in next 4dc) 8 times [48 dc]
7th and 8th rounds: 1dc in next dc all round.
9th round: (2dc in 1dc; 1dc in next 5dc) 8 times [56 dc]
10th and 11th rounds: 1dc in next dc all round.

Start opening for handle by turning the work and working backwards and forwards in rows.

12th row: with wrong side facing 1dc in next dc all across to back to start of round [56 dc]. Turn with 1ch.
13th row: (2dc in 1dc; 1dc in next 6dc) 8 times [64 dc]. Turn with 1ch.

Start opening for spout, working each side of cosy separately.
[Editor's note: I have altered the pattern here and started the spout opening 3 rows higher than intended in the original. Even with this alteration, the cosy fits only a conventional teapot, where the spout comes from the base of the pot. It does not fit my deco teapot design where the spout is high up the pot, on a level with the handle.]

††
14th row: with wrong side facing 1dc in next dc 32 times [32 dc]. Turn with 1ch.
15th row: with right side facing 1dc in next dc 32 times. Turn with 1ch.
16th row: with wrong side facing 1dc in next dc 32 times. Turn with 1ch.
17th row: with right side facing 1dc in next dc 32 times. Turn with 1ch.
18th row: with wrong side facing 1dc in next 15 dc; 2 dc into next dc; 1dc in next 16 dc [33 dc]. Turn with 1ch.
19th row: with right side facing 1dc in next dc 33 times. Turn with 1ch.
20th row: with wrong side facing 1dc in next 16 dc; 2 dc into next dc; 1dc in next 16 dc [34 dc]. Turn with 1ch.
21st row: with right side facing 1dc in next dc 34 times. Turn with 1ch.
22nd row: with wrong side facing 1dc in next 16 dc; 2 dc into next dc; 1dc in next 17 dc [35 dc]. Break wool.
††

[Editor's note: Here's a picture of the cosy with one side worked, showing the coloured thread marking the early rounds.]

Rejoin wool at spout end to work the other side of the cosy. With right side facing, repeat from †† to ††. Join spout opening with one slip stitch. 1ch; turn the work.

With right side facing, return to working in rounds. Work 3 rounds of dc, joining handle opening in first round.

Turn the work, and crochet one round of slip stitches. Fasten off.

Icing

With number 7 hook and white bouclé wool used single, work as for first 6 increase rounds of the plate, [56dc].

Next round: * 1dc in next dc; 4 tr in next dc; 1dc into each of the next 3dc; repeat from * 9 times. Fasten off.

[Editor's note: I extemporised with the crochet here. You can form "realistic" icing/snow either with extra rows of long and short crochet stitches, or by adding embroidery when you stitch the icing in place on the cosy.]

Making up:

Stitch icing to top of cosy, and use white bouclé wool to embroider irregular shapes round edge of icing. Using black wool embroider spots on cosy to represent currants as required.
Sew holly decoration to top of pudding.

Sew in all ends.

Plate (not shown)

Using wool double, with No 7 hook and white, make 4 chain and join into a ring with a slip stitch.

1st round: 1ch, 8dc into ring; 1 slip stitch into top of 1st dc.
[Editor's note: Mark the end of the rounds with a coloured thread, as before.]
2nd round: (2dc into each dc) 8 times [16 dc]
3rd round: (2dc in 1dc; 1dc in next dc) 8 times [24 dc]
4th round: (2dc in 1dc; 1dc in next 2 dc) 8 times [32 dc]

Continue increasing in this way, 8 sts in every round, until 8 rounds have been worked from the start [64 dc].
Work 5 rounds without shaping.
Change to number 10 hook and continue with single wool rim:-

Next round: * 2 dc in next dc; repeat from * to end of round [128 dc].
Next round: 1dc in next dc all round.
Next round: 1 dc in each of next 2 dc; * 2 dc in next dc; 1 dc into each of next 20 dc; repeat from * to end of round.

Work 2 rounds without shaping.

Join in red, and work 1 round. Fasten off red wool.

Turn the work and with wrong side facing, using white wool double, work 1 round of slip stitches into last round of dc. Fasten off white wool.

Press plate lightly. Thread a length of white wool through last round of base - that is before the start of the rim - and fasten off securely. This will retain the shape of the plate.

Materials

50g balls each in dark brown and tan double knitting wool, (used double throughout), and one ball of a white bouclé double knitting wool for the icing. Scraps of red and black for stripes on the plate.

Holly sprig decorations in paper or plastic.

One each Nos. 7 (4.5mm) and 10 (3¼mm) crochet hooks.

Crochet abbreviations:

ch = chain
tr = treble crochet
dc = double crochet

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Tension

4dc to an inch.
Note: these are UK crochet instructions - to work a double crochet: insert hook in next stitch, draw loop through, wool over hook, and draw through both loops.

Size matters

Intended to fit a 2 pint pot (that's UK pints which are each 20 fluid ounces not 16). Check out the diagram with the dimensions of my cosy.

A word on the wool.

I used a vintage tweed DK (used double) which was a perfect "pudding" colour, being a rich brown and having flecks of different colours, so I did not need to use two different colours to work together.
I did not have any bouclé wool, so used a smooth wool; however Stylecraft seem to offer come resonably prices bouclé double knits (eg Carousel or Sirocco).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions

With No. 11 needles and main colour (red), cast on 58 stitches.
Knit 4 rows in garter stitch (every row knit), then one row purl.
Do not break off the main colour (red).

**Change to number 10 needles and commence pattern as follows, using second colour (orange):

Row 1: (right side) *K4, slip 2; repeat from * to last 4 sts, K4.
Row 2: *P4, slip 2; repeat from * to last 4 sts, P4.
Row 3 and 4: As rows 1 and 2.
Break orange wool, and continue in red.
Row 5: knit
Row 6: purl
Row 7: Using the third colour (yellow) K1, *slip 2, K4; repeat from * to last 3sts, slip 2, K1.
Row 8: P1, *slip 2, P4; repeat from * to last 3sts, slip 2, P1.
Row 9 and 10: As rows 7 and 8.
Break yellow wool, and continue in red.
Row 11: knit
Row 12: purl

Rows 13-24: repeat rows 1-12.
Rows 25-30: repeat rows 1-6.

Change to number 11 needles and continue in garter stitch for 15 rows. Purl one row.**

Repeat from ** to ** three times, then rows 1-30 again.

Change to number 11 needles and work in garter stitch for 4 rows. Cast off.

Making up - Press the piece lightly on the wrong side under a damp cloth with a hot iron.
Fold the cover to form a bag as shown in the picture, and sew up the side edges, on the inside, either oversewing or with backstitch.
Sew in all the ends on the wrong side.

Crochet edging - Using the main colour, (red), work a dc edge around the flap of the cover with ties as follows:

With right side facing, starting at the side edge, work 6 dc up edge of the garter st band, 15 dc up the honeycomb edge, 2dc up to corner, 3 dc into the corner st.
Then work across the cast-off edge making 2 dc into every 3 cast off sts approximately. After the first 6 dc (or where you want to place a tie) work the first tie by making 40 chain, then working 1dc into each chain back down to the knitted edge. Continue to work dc into the cast-off sts, making a second tie in the centre of the flap, after approximately 14 dc. Work another 14 dc and make another tie (match the position of the first tie). Work to the edge, 3dc into the corner st and then finish to match the other side of the flap.
Fasten off.

Work 3 more ties by making 40 chain, then working 1 row of dc into each chain. Sew the ties on to the cover to match the positions of the ties on the flap.
[Editor's note: If you want to avoid the crochet altogether you could sew on ribbon ties in the appropriate places.]

Materials

Original pattern calls for three contrast colours, (red, orange and yellow).
Example shown is knitted in 4 ply - 1 x 50g ball of each colour.

One pair each of number 10, an No 11 needles.
Crochet hook.

One hot water bottle "replacement core", (available to order on the web).

Tension

The wool should knit to a basic tension over st st of 28st to 4 inches (10cm) on No 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Size matters

One size.

A word on the wool.

I used Phildar Lambswool (a 4 ply wool/acrylic mix) left over from another project.

Instructions

First piece - with No. 11 needles and first colour, cast on 4 stitches.

Row 1: Inc in every st (8 sts)
Row 2: K3, inc by knitting into the front and back of the next st - place a st marker - inc, K3 (10 sts)
Row 3: Inc, K3, inc in next 2 sts, K3, inc. (14 sts)
Row 4: K6, inc by knitting into the front and back of the next st - place a st marker - inc, K6 (16 sts)
Row 5: Inc, K6, inc in next 2 sts, K6, inc. (20 sts)
Row 6: K9, inc by knitting into the front and back of the next st - place a st marker - inc, K9 (22 sts)

With the right side facing for row 7 place a row marker on this side of the work, to mark it as the right side of the work.

Then continue working as before, increasing at both ends of the row, and in the middle, on odd (right side) rows; increase only in the middle on even (wrong side) rows.

After a while, the stitches will become crowded and the shape hard to manage on just 2 needles. At this point, spread the sts evenly across two needles, discarding the centre st marker; continue to work back and forth across the needles using a third needle.

The work will take on a triangular, or arrow shape.
[Editor's note: The original pattern is intended to form a triangle, I could not make this happen - the wool I used may have a different rows:sts ratio than the one recommended. This shape and resulting cover is flexible and should suit whatever wool you use.]

Continue working until you have 105 sts on each side of the centre.
Leave the completed piece to one side without casting off. Do not break off the wool.
[Editor's note: The original pattern was intended for a hot water bottle. They advised to knit until there are 139sts with the 3 ply wool. The base of the triangle has to be long enough to wrap around your hot water bottle or heated pad; you can choose to stop knitting when you feel it is wide enough.]

Second piece - work a second triangle (or arrow) in the contrast colour.

Lay the pieces out with the point of one arrow to the base corner of the other arrow, (see picture below).

Continue working with one of the available colours (I used the red). Cast off the two rows of knitting together, using a "three-needle cast off"(see picture below), fairly tightly.

[Editor's note: You put your working needle into the first st on the front needle and the first st on the second needle behind; you pull your loop through and knit both sts off the needles together. You have one st on your working (usually right hand) needle. You repeat so there are two sts on your working needle. You pass the first st you knitted over the second; continue casting off in this way.]

This is how it looks half way through; ideally the work should lie flat at the cast off edge:

Next you put the other two edges together - again the point of one arrow is next to the base corner of the other arrow, (see picture below):

Cast off the two rows together. You are left with a sort of tube; turn it so that the cast off edges are inside. The next picture shows a hot water bottle placed in the tube.

The arrow points are arranged centre front and back.

Fold up one of the ends and sew the diagonal seams in place from the wrong side. (I sewed the tip of my white arrow for the closed end). At the other end, make a chain using the crochet hook and sew in place as a loop for the button at the (red) arrow tip.
Place your "replacement core" in the cover and fold over the top of the cover to an appropriate position and mark the place for the closing button.
Make a crochet flower to act as a button, and sew in place.
[Editor's note: You know ho to make a crochet flower without instructions don't you?
O, all right then; this is what I did...]

Crochet flower - begin by making a slip loop with your first colour as if you were starting a crochet chain, and crochet into this loop for your first round. Ensure that the loop "slips" (can be tightened) from the tail end of your work, not the working end.

Round 1: using the first colour, crochet 8 dc into your loop; adjust the slip loop until the sts fit nicely.
Round 2: chain 3, (1 htr 1ch) into each of the 8 dc then ss join to the first 3ch.
Round 3: 1dc into first chain space, (3ch, 1dc into next ch sp) to end of round, 3ch, ss into first dc. Fasten off.

Make a second flower in the second colour.

Round 1: using the second colour, crochet 8 dc into your loop; adjust the slip loop until the sts fit nicely.
Round 2: ss into first dc, (3ch, ss into next 1dc) to end of round, 3ch, ss into first dc. Fasten off.

Place second flower on top of first, and sew through both layers, onto the cover at the marked position for the button.

Materials

Original pattern calls for 2 oz each of two contrast colours in 3ply.
Example shown is knitted in 4 ply - 1 x 50g ball of each colour.

One pair of number 11 needles, with a spare pair (or set or 4) to aid in the construction.
One No 11 (3mm) crochet hook.

One hot water bottle "replacement core", (available to order on the web).

Tension

Garter stitch is difficult to measure but the wool should knit to a basic tension over st st of 28st to 4 inches (10cm) on No 11 (3mm) needles.

Size matters

One size.

A word on the wool.

I used an acrylic 4ply; not ideal, but these covers can take some wear and tear.

Instructions

With No. 7 needles, cast on 49 stitches
Work in garter stitch (every row knit) for 6 rows.

Commence pattern as follows:
[Note that each row begins and ends with K5 making a garter stitch border].

Row 1: K5, (K9, P1) 3 times, knit to end.
Row 2: K6, (P8, K2) 3 times, P8, K5
Row 3: K5, (K7, P3), 3 times, K8, P2, K5
Row 4: K8, (P6, K4) 3 times, P6, K5
Row 5: K5, (K5, P5), 3 times, K5, P4, K5
Row 6: K10, (P4, K6) 3 times, P4, K5
Row 7: K5, (K3, P7), 3 times, K3, P6, K5
Row 8: K12, (P2, K8) 3 times, P2, K5
Row 9: K5, (K1, P9), 3 times, K1, P8, K5
Row 10: knit across all sts.

These rows form one pattern.

Repeat the 10-row pattern 5 times more (6 times in all).
[Note that this is one more pattern in each dimension than shown in the photograph;
these instructions have a centre panel with 6x4 flag patterns].

Work 6 rows in garter stitch, then cast off all 49 sts.

Finishing - sew in all ends, and press lightly with a damp cloth.

Materials

One (2 oz) ball of Lily Sugar n'Cream cotton.

One pair No. 7 needles.

Tension

20 sts x 26 rows to 4 inches measured over stocking stitch on No 7 (4½mm) needles.

Size matters

The pattern as written should make a dishcloth about 10 inches square. My original in the picture is slightly smaller.