Pattern of the Month

Instructions.

The first section of these socks is knitted sideways making a "T" shape where the upright of the "T" is the upper foot, and the cross bar curls around the leg to form the cuff, meeting at the back seam.
The second section knits the heel and then sole of the sock, and then the toe, picking up stitches from the first section
Finally you pick up stitches at the top of the sock and knit the welt.

First section (knit 2)

Starting at the back leg seam, with main shade (M) cast on 23 sts on 2 needles and knit one row. Commence pattern.

Join in contrasts (C1, C2 etc):
1st row: Using C1, p3 * sl1, p3; repeat from * to end of row
2nd row: Using C1, k3 * sl1, k3; repeat from * to end of row
3rd row: As first row.
4th row: As second row.
5th row: Using main shade (M) purl across all sts.
6th row: Using C2, k1, sl1, * k3, sl1; repeat from * to last st, k1.
7th row: Using C2, p1, sl1, * p3, sl1; repeat from * to last st, p1.
8th row: As 6th row.
9th row: As 7th row.
10th row: Using main shade (M) knit across all sts.

Repeat rows 1-10 using different contrasts, once more.

Next row(wrong side facing): Cast on 40 sts, and then work across them and all sts, as for 1st row of pattern. [63sts]
[Editor's note: If you want a shorter or longer foot length cast on more or fewer stitches here. Reduce or add sts in multiples of 4, which is about ¾ of an inch]

Continue to work the pattern on these 63 sts, working rows 1-10 three times, and then rows 1-4.

Next row(wrong side facing): Using main shade, cast off 40 sts, and purl across remainder. [23sts]

Continue to work the pattern on these 23 sts, working rows 6-10, then rows 1-10 once, times, and then rows 1-4.
Cast off purlwise using main shade (centre back seam).

Second section (heel and sole).

The remainder of the socks are worked entirely in the main shade.

For the heel: with right side of the first section facing, oriented like an upside down "T" pick up 11 sts from each side of the instep:

Pick up and knit 11 sts from the left side first, ending at the cast on edge (which will be the centre back, and then turn the work over and bend round the second side, and pick up 11sts from the right side. The sock cuff now forms a circle with the back seams together, but not yet sewn.

Turn and purl 1 row across these 22 sts.

Next row(right side facing): * Sl1, k1, repeat from * to end.
Next row: Purl

Repeat the last 2 rows 10 times more.

Turn the heel:

Next row: Sl1, k12, k2tog, k1. Turn.
Next row: Sl1, p5, p2tog, p1. Turn.
Next row: Sl1, k6, k2tog, k1. Turn.
Next row: Sl1, p7, p2tog, p1. Turn.

Continue to work short rows and decrease in this way until all sts have been incorporated. [14sts].

Next row(right side facing): Sl1, k13, pick up and knit 13 sts down side of heel. Turn.
Next row: P27, pick up and purl 13 sts down other side of heel. Turn.

Now work the instep decreases and sole:

Next row: K1, sl1, k1, psso; knit to last 3 sts, k2tog k1. Turn.
Next row: Purl.

Repeat the last 2 rows until 22 sts remain.
[Editor's note: if you want to make the sock for a narrower foot circumference then decrease a few more sts here. About 6 sts for an inch.]

Continue to work a further 50 rows to make the sole - upper and lower foot sections should be about the same length.
[Editor's note: if you altered the sock length by casting on more of fewer than 40 sts, then adjust the number of rows you knit here. For every 4 sts different in the first section, allow 5 rows difference in the sole.]

Toe

Now we move to working in the round.

Knit 11 sts on first double-pointed needle, 11sts on second, then with right side facing, using third needle, pick up and knit 24 sts across the toe edge of the first section.
Complete the round, knitting 11 sts from first needle then 11 sts from second. Knit one more round.

Next round: K1, sl1, k1, psso; knit to last 3 sts on third needle, k2tog k1. Complete the round by knitting the 11 sts on each of the first and second needles. [44 sts]

Next round: K1, sl1, k1, psso; knit to last 3 sts on third needle, k2tog k1; on first needle, k1, sl1, k1 psso; knit to end; on second needle, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog k1.
Next round: Knit.

Repeat the last 2 rounds until 16sts remain.
Slip the sts from the second needle on to the first and graft the sts together with those on the third needle.

Making up

Sew seams on each side of the sole, using a flat seam technique (not mattress stitch for example).

Using double pointed needles and main shade, pick up 60-66 sts round top of sock and knit a k3/p3 rib for about 8 rows (or as long as you want), to form the welt. Cast off loosely.

Sew in all ends.

Materials

2 x 50g balls of double knitting yarn, and a variety of left over DK colours.

One pair and one of four No 8 (4mm) needles, pointed at both ends.

Tension

22 stitches = 4ins

Size matters

Length of foot, 9 inches (adjustable).

Abbreviations

M is main shade (olive).
C are contrasts.

sl1: slip the next stitch

k2tog or p2tog: work 2 sts together to decrease.

psso: pass the slipped stitch over, (also known as "ssk"; effectively you are "knitting 2 together through back loops")

A Word
on the Wool.

I used Phildar Oxygene in olive for the main colour, and a 4 other colours for the contrast - you could have every colour change (15 colours) different if you wanted.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions

The Back and Fronts are worked in one piece up to the armhole shaping.

Back and Fronts:

Using No. 10 (3¼mm) needles and light colour, cast on 146 sts.
Work in k1/p1 rib for 3½ ins.
Next row (wrong side): Rib 9; (increase in next stitch, rib 15) 8 times; increase in next st, rib to end. [155 sts]

Change to No 7 (4½mm) needles and proceed as follows:

1st row: Knit
2nd row: Purl
3rd row: K39, m1, k1, m1, k75, m1, kl, m1, k39.
4th row: Purl
5th and 6th rows: As 1st and 2nd
7th row: K40, m1, k1, m1, k77, m1, k1, m1, k40.
8th row: Purl
9th and 10th rows: As 1st and 2nd
11th row: K41, m1, k1, m1, k79, m1, k1, m1, k41.
12th row: Purl
13th and 14th rows: As 1st and 2nd

Continue increasing in this manner on next and every following 4th row until there are 183 sts.
Continue on these sts. until work measures 11½ ins, from beginning, finishing at end of a knit row.

Next row: P7, (increase in next stitch p12) 13 times, increase in next stitch, purlto end. [197 sts]

Work rows 1 to 16 from Chart (odd rows knit, even rows purl), working bracketed repeat 7 times across row and odd stitch at end of
knit row and beginning of purl row as marked on Chart throughout.

Divide for Back and Fronts:

Next row (17th row of chart): Pattern 44 cast, off 10, pattern 88 (there now being 89 sts. on needle after cast-off); cast off 10, pattern to end.
[Editors note: So you have 3 groups of sts on the needle - 44 then 89 then 44]

Proceed on first group of 44 sts. for first front as follows:

Keeping pattern correct by working rows 18 to 30 inclusive of Chart, shape armhole by decreasing 1 st. at armhole edge on next and every alternate row until 39 sts. remain.
Work 4 rows, thus completing pattern from Chart.

Using darker colour for remainder of front, continue in stocking stitch until work measures 5 ins, from beginning of armhole shaping, finishing at front edge.

Shape neck: by casting off 4 sts. at beg. of next row.
Decrease 1 st. at neck edge on next and every alternate row until 30 sts. remain.
Continue on these sts. until work measures 7 ins, from beg. of armhole shaping, finishing at armhole edge.

Shape shoulder: by casting off 10 sts. at beg. of next and every alt, row until all sts. are cast off.

Rejoin wool to next group of 89 sts. and proceed for Back as follows:

Keeping pattern correct from Chart, shape armholes by decreasing 1 st at both ends of next and every alternate row until 81sts remain. Continue on these sts. until work matches first front up to shoulder shaping.
Shape shoulders by casting off 10 sts. at beg. of next 6 rows.
Cast off all remaining sts.

Rejoin wool to remaining group of 44 sts. and complete to match first front reversing all shapings.

Sleeves:

Using No. 10 needles and Light, cast on 50 sts.
Work in k1/p1 rib for 3 inches.
Next row: Rib 5; (increase in the next stitch, rib 9) 4 times; increase in the next stitch; rib to end. [55 sts]

Change to No. 7 needles and proceed in stocking stitch, increasing 1 st. at both ends of 5th and every following 9th row until there are 73 sts.
Continue on these sts until work measures 15½ ins, from beginning finishing at the end of a knit row.

Next row: P3; (increase in the next stitch, p5) 11times; increase in the next stitch; purl to end. [85 sts]

Work rows 1 to 16 inclusive from the chart, noting that bracketed repeat is worked 3 times across row, and odd st. at end of knit row and beginning of purl row as marked on chart throughout.

Keeping pattern correct from chart until 30th row of chart has been completed, and working remainder of sleeve in dark colour, shape top by casting off 4 sts at the beginning of the next 4 rows, 3 sts at the beginning of the next 4 rows, and then 2 sts at the beginning of the next 4 rows.
Decrease 1 st at both ends of every row until 43 sts remain, and then on every alternate row until 33 sts remain, and then on every following 3rd row until 29 sts remain.
Cast off 5 sts at the beginning of the next 4 rows.
Cast off.

Right Front Band:

Using No. 10 needles and light colour, cast on 11 stitches.

1st row: K2; (p1, kl) 4 times; kl.
2nd row: (kl, p1) 5 times; kl.
3rd and 4th rows: As 1st and 2nd.
5th row (make buttonhole): Rib 4, cast off 3, rib to end.
6th row: Rib 4, cast on 3, rib to end.

Continue in rib working a buttonhole as on 5th and 6th rows on every 23rd and 24th rows from previous buttonhole until 5 buttonholes in all have been completed.
Break off light colour and join in dark.
Still working buttonholes on every 23rd and 24th rows from previous buttonhole as before, continue in Dark until 7 buttonholes in all have been completed.
Work 16 more rows.
Slip stitches on to a stitch holder.

Left Front Band:

Omitting buttonholes, work to match Right Front Band.

Neckband:

Using a back-stitch seam join shoulders of Back and Fronts.
Slip stitches from top of Right Front Band on to No 10 needle, with right side of work facing, using dark colour, k2, (p1, kl) 4 times, p1 across these sts., using same needle, knit up 71 sts round neck, slip sts. from top of Left Front Band on to No 10 needle, (p1, k1) 5 times across these sts, kl. [93 sts]

Next row: * k1, p1, rep from * to last stitch, k1.
Next row: k2, * p1, kl, repeat, from * to last stitch kl.

Work 3 more rows in rib.
Make buttonhole on next 2 rows.
Work 3 rows in rib. Cast off.

To Make Up

Omitting k1/p1 rib, with wrong side of work facing, block each piece by pinning out round edges.
Omitting k1/p1 rib, press each piece very lightly using a warm iron and damp cloth.

"In order to preserve the lovely crepe appearance of Totem fabrics, these must be pressed very lightly as over-pressing will spoil the appearance of the finished fabric."

Using a flat seam for k1/p1 rib, and a back-stitch seam for remainder, join sleeve seams and stitch sleeves into position. Flat stitch front bands into position.
Attach buttons.
Press seams.

Materials

12 oz in light colour and 6 oz in dark colour in double knitting yarn.

[Editors note: 1oz = 28g.
See "a word on the wool".]

Two No 10 (3¼mm) and two No 7 (4½mm) needles.

Eight buttons.

Tension

21sts x 28 rows to 4 ins on No 7 needles, measured over stocking stitch.

Size matters

The instructions are for one size only.

To fit 34-36 inch bust. Length from shoulder to lower edge, 21¼ ins. Sleeve seam, 18 ins.

Abbreviations

m1: make one st by picking up loop between sts and knit into back of it.
m1p: make one st by picking up loop between sts and purl into back of it.
kb: knit into back of stitch
pb: purl into back of stitch
tog: together
tbl: through back loops
inc: increase by working into front and back of stitch
dec:decrease by working 2 sts. together

"Stranding" in Fair Isle

In working designs using two or more colours, you strand the colours by carrying those not in use loosely across the back of the fabric.
Do not strand colours over more than 5 sts. When a loose thread must pass over more than 5 sts. weave it over and under the colour in use at centre point of the sts. it passes over.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was Patons Totem, or Moorland which are
double knitting, yarns. When substituting with modern yarns you often need to allow more than a straight equivalence of metric to imperial.

12oz is about 7 x 50g balls and 6oz is about 4 x 50g balls. A rough guide would say that 10 balls of yarn is enough to make a woman's sweater in a small size.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions

This pattern uses 3 familiar stitch types:

Double Rib: repeated sequence of k2, p2 rib.
Stocking stitch: knit one row, purl one row.
Fair-isle stocking stitch, following the chart.

Back:

Using No 9 (3¾mm) needles and main shade (O), cast on 86 / 90 / 94 sts work 3½ inches in double rib. Change to No 7 (4½mm), needles and stocking stitch, increasing 15 sts evenly across first row [101/ 105/ 109 sts]. Continue joining in contrast (R) for dotted fair-isle stocking stitch pattern as per the lower section of chart.
When work measures approximately 16¾ inches, change to No 6 (5mm) needles and beg the fair-isle motifs. When work measures 18 inches, shape the armholes by casting off 6 / 7 / 8 sts at beg of next 2 rows [89 / 91 / 93 sts].

When the fair-isle motif is complete, change back to No 7 needles and continue in dotted fair-isle until work measures 27½ / 28 / 28½ inches.

Shape shoulders:
Cast off 8 at the beginning of the next 2 rows (all sizes).

Then cast off 8 sts, (all sizes), knit 6 / 7 / 8 (7/8/9 sts on right hand needle), and turn leaving the remaining sts unworked but still on the needle to pick up in a moment, .
Purl back 1 row.
Then cast off remaining 7 / 8 / 9 sts.

Return to the sts still on the needle for the neck and left side. Place the centre 43 sts on a stitch holder for the back neck, and then rejoin yarn to the remaining sts and knit 1 row.

Then cast off 8 sts, (all sizes) purlwise, purl 6 / 7 / 8 (7/8/9 sts on right hand needle), and turn, knit back 1 row.
Then cast off remaining 7 / 8 / 9 sts purlwise.

Front:

Using No 9 (3¾mm) needles and main shade (O), cast on 90 / 94 / 98 sts work 3½ inches in double rib. Change to No 7 (4½mm), needles and continue in dotted fair-isle stocking stitch pattern as for the back, increasing 15 sts evenly across first row [105/ 109 / 113 sts].
Change to No 6 (5mm) needles when you work the fair-isle motifs just as you did on the back section.

When work measures 18 inches (same as back to armhole), shape the armholes by casting off 8 / 9 / 10 sts at beg of next 2 rows [89 / 91 / 93 sts].

When work measures 25½ / 26 / 26½ inches, shape neck:
leave centre 23 sts on spare needle and continue each side separately, casting off at neck edge on every alternate row as follows: 3 sts (once), 2 sts (twice) and 1 st (3 times) [23 / 24 / 25 sts].

When work measures 27½ / 28 / 28½ inches, work shoulder shaping as you did for the back, casting off at armhole edge on every alternate row as follows: 8 sts (twice), 7 / 8 / 9 sts (once).

Sleeves:

Using No 9 (3¾mm) needles and main shade (O), cast on 54 / 58 / 62 sts work 3½ inches in double rib.

Change to No 7 (4½mm), needles and continue in dotted fair-isle, increasing 17 sts evenly across first row [71 / 75 / 79 sts].

Increase 1 st at each end of every 8th row 9 times, [89 / 93 / 97 sts]. When work measures approximately 11½ / 12½ / 13½ inches, . (11 change to No 6 needles and work the fair-isle motifs.

Cast off when you have completed the second border pattern, before you start the dotted fair-isle.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side with a damp cloth

Stitch one shoulder seam. Using No 9 needles and main shade, pick up and knit 98 / 102 / 106 sts evenly round neck. Work 1¼ inches in double rib.
Cast off.

Stitch second shoulder seam and neck border seam.

Sew in sleeves.

Stitch side and sleeve seams.

Materials

13/14/15 x 50g balls in main shade (orange) and 4/5/6 balls contrast colour (red)/

Pair each No 9 (3¾mm), No 7 (4½mm), and No 6 (5mm) needles.

Tension

18½sts and 21 rows to 4 ins using No 7 needles over dotted fair-isle stocking stitch (lower section of chart).

Size matters

The sweater has instructions for 3 sizes, which are intended to be for men or women as follows: man's to fit chest: 40/42/44 inches; woman's to fit: 34/36/38 inches (size 12/14/16 UK size).

Actual size seems to be 43/45½/47 inches.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was Pingouin Monsieur, or Sport yarn.

It was a synthetic Aran-type yarn knitting to a tension of 17sts and 23 rows to 4 inches over stocking stitch using 4½mm needles.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Legwarmers

The legwarmers are worked in rib throughout.

Instructions

Using No 11 (3mm) needles and main shade, cast on 62sts, and work in double rib for 4¾ inches.
Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and continue until work measures 16½ inches.
Change back to No 11 needles and contrast colour, and work a further 2 inches.

Cast off loosely.

[Editor's note: You are working from the ankle upwards; you cast on for the bottom of the item and cast off at the top, so it needs to be loose.]

Stitch the seam using a flat seam technique.

Work a second legwarmer in the same way.

Materials

4 x 50g balls in main shade (orange) and 1 ball contrast colour (red)

Pair each No 11 (3mm), and No 8 (4mm) needles.

Size matters

One size.

Instructions

T-shaped chunky sweater with simple snowflake pattern worked from the charts.

Back and Front alike:

With No 6 (5mm) needles and main shade, cast on 47 / 51 / 55 / 59 / 63 / 65 / 71 / 73 / 77 sts and work in K1/P1 rib for 2½ / 2½ / 2½ / 3 / 3 / 3 / 3½ / 3½ / 3½ inches, ending with wrong side facing for next row.

Next row (wrong side): Rib 3 / 3 / 5 / 4 / 4 / 5 / 5 / 5 / 6; m1; * rib 8 / 9 / 9 / 10 / 11 / 11 / 12 / 9 / 13; m1; repeat from * to last 4 / 3 / 5 / 5 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 5 / 6 sts; rib to end. [53 / 57 / 61 / 65 / 69 / 71 / 77 / 81 / 83 sts].

Change to No 4 (6mm) needles and work in stocking stitch, starting with a knit row, until work measures 13½ / 14½ / 16 / 15 / 16 / 17 / 17½ / 18½ / 19½ inches, ending with a purl row.

1st to 3rd size: Join in contrast colour and work 2 rows.

All sizes:
Next row: Using main shade, knit.
Next row: Using main shade, purl 2 / 4 / 2 / 4 / 3 / 4 / 2 / 4 / 3, ml; * purl 7 / 7 / 8 / 8 / 9 / 7 / 8 / 8 / 7, ml; rep from * to last 2 / 4 / 3 / 5 / 3 / 4 / 3 / 5 / 3 sts, purl to end. [61 / 65 / 69 / 73 / 77 / 81 / 87 / 91 / 95 sts]

1st to 3rd size: Work rows 1 to 24 from chart A, repeating the 20 pattern sts 3 times across and working the first 0 / 2 / 4 sts and last 1 / 3 / 5 sts on knit rows and first 1 / 3 / 5 sts and last 0 / 2 / 4 sts on purl rows as indicated.

4th to 9th size: Work rows 1 to 36 from chart B, repeating the 20 pattern sts 3 / 3 / 4 / 4 / 4 / 4 times across and working first 6 / 8 / 0 / 3 / 5 / 7 sts and last 7 / 9 / 1 / 4 / 6 / 8 sts on knit rows and first 7 / 9 / 1 / 4 / 6 / 8 sts and last 6 / 8 / 0 / 3 / 5 / 7 sts on purl rows as indicated.

All sizes: Break main shade, and complete in contrast.

Next 2 rows: Knit.

Next row: K3 / 1 / 3 / 1 / 0 / 5 / 4 / 2 / 4, k2tog, * k2 / 2 / 2 / 2 / 3 / 2 / 2 / 2 / 2, k2tog; rep from * to last 4 / 2 / 4 / 2 / 0 / 6 / 5 / 3 / 6 sts, knit to end. [47 / 49 / 53 / 55 / 61 / 63 / 67 / 69 / 73 sts]

Next row: Knit

Cast off.

Sleeves:

With No 6 (5mm) needles and main shade cast on 25 / 27 / 27 / 29 / 29 / 31 / 31 / 33 / 33 sts and work in rib as on body sections for 2½ / 2½ / 2½ / 3 / 3 / 3 / 3½ / 3½ / 3½ ins, ending with right side facing for next row.

Change to No 4 (6mm) needles and work in stocking stitch, starting with a knit row, shaping sides by inc 1 stitch at each end of 3rd / 3rd / next / 7th / next / 5th / 3rd / 9th / 5th and every following 4th / 5th / 5th / 5th / 5th / 5th / 4th / 4th / 4th row until there are 51 / 51 / 55 / 55 / 59 / 59 / 67 / 67 / 69 sts.

Work straight until sleeve seam measures 14 / 15½ / 17 / 18½ / 19 / 19 / 19½ / 20 / 20 ins, ending with a purl row.

Cast off.

To Make Up

Omitting garter stitch and ribbing, press parts lightly on wrong side with a damp cloth

When making up a chunky garment it may be easier to use an oddment of finer yarn in a toning shade for the sewing.
If you prefer to make up with the original yarn, use 30 inch lengths and a large needle, making sure yarn keeps its original twist by turning needle clockwise between fingers and thumb after every few stitches.

Join shoulder seams leaving 7 / 7½ / 8 / 9 / 9½ / 9½ / 10 / 10½ / 10½ ins open at centre for neck opening.
Join side seams leaving 7 / 7 / 7½ / 7½ / 8 / 8 / 9 / 9 / 9½ inches free for armholes.
Join sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Press seams.

Materials

8 / 8 / 9 / 11 / 11 / 13 / 13 / 14 / 14 x 50g balls in main shade and 2 / 2 / 2 / 2 / 2 / 3 / 3 / 3 / 3 balls contrast colour.

Pair each No 6 (5mm) and No 4 (6mm) needles.

Tension

15sts x 20 rows to 4 ins in over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest: 26 / 28 / 30 / 32 / 34 / 36 / 38 / 40 / 42 inches; (66 / 71 / 76 / 81 / 86 / 91 / 97 / 102 / 107 cm).
Length from top of shoulders: 20½ / 21½ / 23 / 24 / 25 / 26 / 26½ / 27½ / 28½ ins; (52 / 54 / 58 / 61 / 63 / 66 / 67 / 70 / 72 cm).
Sleeve seam, 14 / 15½ / 17 / 18½ / 19 / 19 / 19½ / 20 / 20 ins; (36 / 39 / 43 / 47 / 48 / 48 / 49 / 51 / 51 cm).

Abbreviations

m1: make one st by picking up loop between sts and knit into back of it.

A word on the wool.

Original yarn was Patons Husky Chunky, which was a fairly dense tough yarn as the name implies.

A good substitute in texture and general ethos, might be Rowan's British sheep breeds chunky, which is specified as knitting to a tension of 13sts x 18 rows but on 7mm needles; it is available in a good range of monochrome colours which suit the fashion for the current take on fair-isle. Try a swatch with 6mm.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions

The striped pattern is worked as follows:

1st row: Knit in main shade
2nd - 11th rows: Knit in first contrast
12th row: Knit in main shade
13th - 22nd rows: Knit in second contrast

These 22 rows are repeated to form the striped pattern.

Body

The body is worked in one piece; you start off knitting short, shaped pieces for the back and front separately then join them both onto one needle. The pattern as written should work out that the stripes match up when you join them together - make sure they do - and you may want to use a circular needle for the 86 stitches in chunky yarn.

Back:

With No 4 (6mm) needles and second contrast (Pink), cast on 25 sts and purl one row.
Then work in striped pattern as above, beginning with 4 rows in pink, 1 row in main (White), 9 rows in first contrast (Sky Blue) and at the same time, shape rows as follows:-

1st row(right side): Cast on 3, knit to end.
2nd row: Cast on 3, purl to end.
3rd row: Cast on 2, knit to end.
4th row: Cast on 2, purl to end.

Change to white yarn for 1 row:
5th row: Cast on 2, knit to end.

Change to blue yarn for 9 rows:
6th row: Cast on 2, purl to end.
7th row: Inc in first st, knit to end.
8th row: Inc in first st, purl to end.
9th row: Inc in first st, knit to end.
10th row: Inc in first st, purl to end.
11th row: Knit
12th row: Inc in first st, purl to end.
13th row: Knit
14th row: Inc in first st, purl to end. [45 sts]

Change to white yarn for 1 row:
15th row: Knit.

Change to pink yarn and work in sts for 5 rows starting with a purl row.
Leave the sts on a stitch holder or spare needle.
[Editor's note: You have ended with right side facing about to start your 6th row in pink yarn.]

Front:

With No 4 (6mm) needles and first contrast (Sky Blue), cast on 23 sts and purl one row.
Then work in striped pattern as above, beginning with 6 rows in blue contrast, 1 row in main (White), and at the same time, shape rows as follows:-

1st row(right side): Cast on 3, knit to end.
2nd row: Cast on 3, purl to end.
3rd row: Cast on 2, knit to end.
4th row: Cast on 2, purl to end.
5th row: Cast on 2, knit to end.
6th row: Cast on 2, purl to end.

Change to white yarn for 1 row:
7th row: Inc in first st, knit to end.

Change to pink yarn:
8th row: Inc in first st, purl to end.
9th row: Knit
10th row: Inc in first st, purl to end.
11th row: Knit
12th row: Inc in first st, purl to end. [41 sts]

[Editor's note: You have ended with right side facing about to start your 6th row in pink yarn.]

Right side facing, continuing in pink yarn, knit 41sts from front, and then 45 sts from back (stitches on holder). [86 sts]

Continue straight until work measures 20 inches (51cm) - (measure the back segment), ending with a wrong side row.
[Editor's note: This is approximately 96-98 rows from start of back. End after 5 rows in colour blue with right side facing to begin 6th row in blue.]

Right side facing, tie coloured thread or place marker, between the 41st and 42nd sts and between the 84th and 85th sts.

Next row (right side facing): Cast off 4sts, work to end, and increase (cast on) 3 sts. [85sts]
Next row: Purl.

[Editor's note: You are now about to start the raglan shaping on the front, having completed 7 rows in colour blue with right side facing to begin 8th row in blue.]

Next row(right side facing and keeping striped sequence correct): Cast off 3 sts, k 33 (34sts on needle). Turn, leaving remaining 48sts on a spare needle.

2nd row: Cast off 2 sts, purl to end. [32sts]
3rd row: Cast off 3sts, knit to end. [29sts]

Change to white yarn for 1 row:
4th row: Cast off 2 sts, purl to end. [27sts]

Change to pink yarn for 10 rows:
5th row(and every following knit row up to and including row 13): Cast off 2 sts, knit to end.
6th row(and every following purl row, up to and including row 14): Decrease 1 stitch, purl to end. [12sts]

Change to white yarn for 1 row:
15th: Decrease 1 stitch, work to end. [11sts]

Change to blue yarn for rest of front:
16th -23rd rows (every row): Decrease 1 stitch, work to end. [3sts]
24th row (wrong side facing): Purl (no shaping).
25th row: Decrease 1 stitch, knit to end. [2sts]

The front should now measure 4¾ins (12cm) from beginning of raglan shaping, and 2 sts remain.
Cast off.

Back raglan shaping:

With right side facing, take up 43sts of the back and leave the remaing 5 sts at the end of the row on a holder.
[Editor's note: You are now about to start the raglan shaping on the back, having completed 7 rows in colour blue with right side facing to begin 8th row in blue.]

Keeping striped sequence correct work as follows: cast off 2 sts at the beginning of the next 6 rows, and one stitch at the beginning of the next 16 rows.
Cast off remaining 15 sts.

With right side facing, take up the remaining 5 sts on the holder, and keeping striped sequence correct work as follows:
[Editor's note: right side facing to begin 8th row of pattern in blue.]

1st row (right side facing): Cast off 2 sts, knit to end.
2nd row: Increase (cast on) 3sts, purl to end.
3rd row: Cast off 2 sts, knit to end.

Change to white yarn for 1 row:
4th row: Increase (cast on) 3sts, purl to end.

Change to pink yarn for 10 rows:
5th and every alternate row until row 13: Decrease 1 st, knit to end.
6th and every alternate row until row 12: Increase (cast on) 3sts, purl to end.
14th row: Cast off 2 sts, purl to end.

Change to blue yarn to complete:
15th - 22nd row (every row): Decrease 1 st, work to end.
23rd row: Knit
24th row: Decrease 1 st, purl to end.
25th row: Knit
26th row: Decrease 1 st, purl to end.

The work should now measure 4¾ins (12cm) from beginning of raglan shaping, and 2 sts remain.
Cast off.

Here's a photo of what it looks like (Figure 1):

Sleeves:

With No 6 (5mm) needles and main shade, cast on 26sts. and work 4 rows in k1/p1 rib, ending with a wrong side row.

Change to No 4 (6mm) needles and striped stocking stitch starting with 1 row of main shade (White). Then work in blue as follows:

2nd - 10th row: Stocking stitch in blue yarn
11th row: Knit in blue increasing 1 stitch at each end of the row. [28sts]

12th row: Purl one row in white.

13th - 20th row: Stocking stitch in blue yarn
21st row: Knit in blue increasing 1 stitch at each end of the row. [30sts]
22nd row: Purl one row in blue.

23rd row: Knit one row in white.

Work 7 rows straight in blue. Work measures 7ins (18cm), ending with right side facing to start raglan shaping.
[Editor's note: Make sure that the pattern sequence matches that of back and front at start of raglan shaping.]

Shape raglan by casting off 3sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows, 1st at each end of every following 3rd row, twice, 6 sts remain.

Cast off.

Hood

With No 4 (6mm) needles and first contrast, cast on 17 sts and work in striped pattern starting with 3 rows of the first contrast.
Continue following the striped sequence until work measures until work measures 6¾ins (17cm), ending with wrong side row, and 6 rows of second contrast.

Cast on 22sts at the beginning of the next right side row. [39 sts]

Continue straight until work measures until work measures 11½ins (29cm), ending with wrong side row, and 2 rows of second contrast.

Cast off 22sts at the beginning of the next right side row. [17 sts]

Continue straight until work measures until work measures 18ins (46cm), ending with wrong side row, and 2 rows of first contrast.

Cast off.

Here's a photo showing how the hood looks (Figure 2):

Front and Hood Band:

With No 6 (5mm) needles and main shade, cast on 211sts and work 4 rows in k1/p1 rib, arranged as follows:

1st row: K2 * p1, k1, repeat from * to last stitch; k1.
2nd row: P2 * k1, p1, repeat from * to last stitch; p1.

End with a wrong side row.

Next row: Knit and leave sts on a holder.

To Make Up

Sew up sleeve seams, and sew raglan seams together.
The left sleeve front seam is from F to Sl and the back seam is from G to Sl; the 6 cast-off sts of the sleeve head sits between F and G (refer back to Figure 1); likewise the right sleeve is set in H-Sr and A-Sr, and the right sleeve head sits between H and A.

Sew up hood seams, bringing together points G and H to make the hood shape as shown in Figure 2 and then sew the back of the hood to the back neck of the body between points G and H in Figure 1.
Sew the left side of the hood from G to F across top of sleeve head and then across to E ending about an inch away from the point E.
Sew the right side of the hood from H to A across top of sleeve head and then a further 2 inches or so down towards B.

With No 6 (5mm) hook and main shade work 2 rows dc along edge of sleeping bag back from E to D and all around to C (refer back to Figure 1), working tightly across the bottom of the back section so that it is slightly gathered and curls up to form the bottom of the bag.
[Editor's note: You also need to work tightly and gather up the corner between E and D near Sl in figure 1.]

Here's a photo of the bottom section of the back of the bag (Figure 3):

Sew on front and hood band stitch by stitch from C all around to A and then around edge of hood from A to E fitting the edge of the band into the corner by the edge of the hood, at point E.

Sew on snap fasteners evenly from C to D to E on right side of work and from A to B to C on wrong side edge of front.

Press all seams heartily. (That is: carefully with a damp cloth).

Sew on decorative buttons if required.

Materials

3 x 50g balls chunky yarn in main colour, (this is the colour of the edging and narrow stripes), and 4 balls each in 2 contrast collours.

A pair each of No 6 (5mm) and a No 4 (6mm) needles.
One No 6 (5mm) crochet hook.

10-12 x 17mm snap fasteners

9 optional decorative buttons.

Tension

13sts x 19 rows to 4 ins in over stocking stitch.

Size matters

Width all round: 25 ins, (64cm); Length from back neck: 25½ ins (65cm).

Abbreviations

dc: double crochet.
[Editor's note: Remember this is English double crochet where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.]

A word on the wool.

The chunky yarn knits to a tension of tension 13sts x 19 rows to 4 ins over stocking stitch.
You can substitute an Aran weight yarn knitted double throughout, (check your tension with a swatch).

I used King Cole Comfort Chunky (100g balls) - 2 balls of each in colours: soft pink, ice, and white.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions.

The sleeves and yoke of this tunic are knitted from cuff to cuff and the back and front (knitted in the usual vertical manner) are sewn onto it at the armhole.

Back and Front alike.

Work 2 pieces as follows:

Using No 8 (4mm) needles and main shade (M), cast on 65 [69 : 73 : 77] sts loosely and knit 7 rows in garter stitch (every row knit). Change to No 5 needles, and beginning with a knit row work 6 inches in stocking stitch, ending with a purl row.
Shaping:

Next row: K12 [13 : 13 : 14], k2tog tbl, knit to the last 14 [15 : 15 : 16]; k2tog; knit to end.
Work 17 rows in stocking stitch.
Rep the last 18 rows once more. 61 [65 : 69 : 73] sts.
Cont in stocking stitch without shaping until work measures 18½ inches, ending with a purl row.
Cast off.

Left Sleeve and Yoke

** Using No 8 needles and main shade (M), cast on 57 [61 : 61 : 65] sts loosely and knit 7 rows in garter stitch. Break off M. Change to No 5 needles, and join in contrast colour (C). Beginning with a knit row continue in stocking stitch, until sleeve measures 19 [19 : 19½ : 19½] inches from the beginning, ending with a purl row.

Place coloured marker at each end of last row.

Work a further 8 [8 : 10 : 10] rows in stocking stitch.

Shape shoulder:

Next row: K28 [30 : 30 : 32], pick up loop lying before next st and m1, k1, m1; k28 [30 : 30 : 32]

Work 9 [9 : 11 : 11] rows in stocking stitch.

Next row: K29 [31 : 31 : 33], pick up loop lying before next st and m1, k1, m1; k29 [31 : 31 : 33]. {61 [65 : 65 : 69] sts}

Work 13 [15 : 15 : 17] rows in stocking stitch, ending with a purl row.
**

Divide for neck:

Next row: K30 [32 : 32 : 34], and turn, leaving the remaining sts on a holder.

Complete this side first. Work a further 15 [16 : 16 : 17] rows. Cast off.

With right side of work facing, slip the first 10 sts on to a holder, and rejoin yarn to remaining 21 [23 : 23 : 25] sts. Work a further 12 [12 : 12 : 14] rows. Break off C.

Change to No 8 needles, join in M and knit 7 rows.
Cast off.

Right Sleeve and Yoke

Work as given for left sleeve and yoke from ** to **.

Divide for neck:

Next row: K21 [23 : 23 : 25], and turn, leaving the remaining sts on a holder.

Complete this side first. Work a further 11 [11 : 11 : 13] rows. Break off C.

Change to No 8 needles. Join in M and knit 7 rows.
Cast off.

With right side of work facing, slip the first 10 sts on to a holder, and work 16 [17 : 17 : 18] rows. Cast off.

To Make Up

Press the sleeve pieces very lightly under a damp cloth with a warm iron on wrong side, omitting the 9 st borders. Join centre back yoke seam.

Neck border:
Using No 8 needles and M, with right side of work facing, beginning at the right front border, knit up 9 [11 : 11 : 12] sts along right front, knit up one st from corner, (marking this stitch with coloured thread), knit across 10 sts from holder up right side, knit 18 [22 : 22 : 24] sts along back, knit across 10 sts from holder down left side, knit up one st from corner, (mark ing this stitch with coloured thread), then knit up 9 [11 : 11 : 12] sts along left front. {58 [66 : 66 : 70] sts}
Work 4 rows in garter stitch, decreasing one stitch at each side of the marked sts on next and foil alternate row. {50 [58 : 58 : 62] sts}.

Hood:

Next row: K9 [12 : 12 : 12]; (m1, k2 [2 : 2 : 3]) 5 [8 : 8 : 3] times; (m1, k1 [1 : 1 : 2]) 12 [2 : 2 : 10] times; (m1, k2 [2 : 2 : 3]) 5 [8 : 8 : 3] times; m1; k9 [12 : 12 : 12]. {73 [77 : 77 : 79] sts}.

Change to No 5 needles.

1st row (right side): Knit to end.
2nd row: K4; purl to last 4 sts, k4.

Repeat the last 2 rows until hood measures 11½ ins from beginning, ending with a wrong side row.

Next row: K4, slip these 4 sts on to a holder, cast off next 20 [21 : 21 : 22] sts; k25 [27 : 27 : 27] sts, (including stitch on needle); k4 and slip these 4 sts on to a holder.
Break off yarn.

With wrong side of work facing, rejoin yarn to rem 25 [27 : 27 : 27] sts and beg with a purl row, cont in stocking stitch until side edge fits along cast off edge of hood to within 4 sts on holder. Cast off.

Sew cast off edges to side edge of centre piece.

Left border:
Using No 5 needles, and M, with wrong side of work facing, rejoin yarn to 4 sts on holder on left side of hood. Cont in g st until extra rows, when slightly stretched, fit across to centre of cast off sts at centre of hood.
Cast off.

Right border:
Work as given for left border.

Join borders and sew in position around hood.
Join side seams.
Join sleeve seams to markers.
Sew yoke edges to cast off edges of back and front.
Press seams.
Using M, make 2 twisted cords with a tassel at each end and sew in position to fasten at neck.

[Editor's note: I used a duffle toggle and loop to fasten neck rather than a cord.]

Materials

10 [11 : 11 : 12] x 50g balls Jaeger Catkin in main shade (M) and
8 [9 : 9 : 10] balls of contrast colour, (C)

[Editor's note: I have knitted the hood in the contrast yarn rather than as the instructions given here, where the hood is in the main shade. If you want to do this, it will alter the required amount of yarn.
Also, I used a duffle toggle and loop to fasten neck rather than a cord.]

A pair each of No 8 (4 mm) and No 5 (5½ mm) needles.

Tension

14 sts and 22 rows to 4 inches.

Size matters

To fit 32 [34 : 36 : 38] inch bust.
Length to shoulder: 27 [27½ : 27½ : 28] inches.
Sleeve seam: 19 [19 : 19½ : 19½] inches.

The figures in square brackets refer to the 34, 36 and 38 inch sizes respectively.

Abbreviations

m1: increase by picking up the loop lying before next st and knitting into the back of it.
k2tog: (decrease) knit 2 sts together.
k2tog tbl: (decrease) knit 2 sts together through back loops - also known as "ssk" (slip, slip, knit).

A word on the wool.

Jaeger Catkin was a lovely quality soft bouclé wool. There are a number of good choices for a substitute chunky bouclé these days, including options from Rowan. However, you might have to go with a single colour - which might be more sophisticated - unless you are into dying your own matching colour combination.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

You can see similar patterns - some with front pockets - in the vintage patterns section:

Sweater with hood and stripes

Pattern ID: Hayfield 1271

Mother and daughter tunics

Pattern ID: Hayfield 1241

Instructions

The pinafore is worked in one piece up to the armhole shaping.

Panel Pattern over 5 stitches:

1st row: k2, yfwd, k2tog tbl, k1
2nd and every alternate row: purl
3rd row: k1, yfwd, s1k, k2tog, psso, yfwd, k1
5th row: as first row
7th, 9th, 11th, 13th, and 15th rows: knit
16th row:as second row
These 16 rows form panel pattern.

With No 12 (2¾mm) needles cast on cast on 223/239/255 sts. and work 5 rows garter-stitch, that is: every row knit.

Change to No 10 (3¼mm) needles and pattern as follows :

1st row (right side facing): knit.
2nd and every alternate row: purl.
3rd row: k7, * yfwd, k2tog tbl, k6; repeat from * to end.
5th row: k6, * yfwd, s1k, k2tog, psso, yfwd, k5; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
7th row: k7, * yfwd, k2tog tbl, k6; repeat from * to end.
9th row: knit.
11th row: k3, * yfwd, k2tog tbl, k6; repeat from * to last 4 stitches, yfwd, k2tog tbl, k2.
13th row: k2, * yfwd, s1k, k2tog , psso, yfwd, k5; repeat from * to last 5 stitches, yfwd, s1k, k2tog, psso, yfwd, k2.
15th row: k3, * yfwd, k2tog tbl, k6; repeat from * to last 4 stitches, yfwd, k2tog tbl, k2.
16th row: as second row

Shape skirt and place panel pattern as follows:

1st decrease row: k5/13/5, (panel pattern 5 as 1st row, k5, k2tog, k4) 13/13/15 times, panel pattern 5 as 1 st row, k5/13/5. [210/226/240 sts]

Keeping continuity of panel pattern, work 11/17/25 rows straight.

2nd decrease row: k5/13/5, (pattern 5, k4, k2tog, k4) 13/13/15 times, pattern 5, k5/13/5. [197/213/225 sts]

Work 15/17/29 rows straight.

3rd decrease row: k5/13/5, (pattern 5, k4, k2tog, k3) 13/13/15 times, pattern 5, k5/13/5 [184/200/210 sts]

Work 15/17/29 rows straight.

1st and 2nd sizes: Continue decreasing 13 sts thus on next and following 16th/18th row [158/174 sts].
3rd size: Continue decreasing 15sts thus on next row [195 sts].

All sizes:
Next row (wrong side facing): p18/14/6, p2tog, (p28/34/18, p2tog) 4/4/9 times, purl to end [153/169/185 sts].
Work a few rows straight in stocking-stitch until skirt measures 9½/11/12½ inches, ending with wrong side facing.

Divide for front and backs:
Next row: p21/23/25, turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch-holder.

Continue straight on these 21/23/25 stitches for right back until work measures 14½/16½/18½ inches, ending with right side facing.

Shape shoulder by casting off 3sts at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.
Work 1 row straight.
Cast off remaining 15/17/19 sts.

With wrong side facing, rejoin yarn to remaining stitches from holder; cast off 34/38/42, (for armhole), p43/47/51, turn and leave remaining stitches on a spare needle or stitch-holder.

Continue straight on these 43/47/51 stitches for front until work measures 12/13½/15½ inches, ending with right side facing.

Divide for neck:
Next row: k8/9/10, turn and leave remaining stitches on stitch-holder .
Continue straight until left front measures 14½/16½/18½ inches, ending with right side facing.
Shape shoulder by casting off 3sts at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.

Work 1 row straight.

Cast off remaining 2/3/4 sts.

With right side facing, rejoin yarn to remainiing stitches, cast off centre 27/29/31, then finish to correspond with first side, reversing shapings.

With wrong side facing, rejoin yarn to remaining stitches on holder, cast off 34/38/42, (for armhole) purl to end.

Finish to correspond with right back, reversing shapings.

Shoulder Frills:

With No 12 needles, cast on 103/111/119 sts. and work 3 rows garter-stitch.
Change to No 10 needles and work rows 1-15 of pattern as for main part.
1st size: Next row: p5, p2tog, (p1, p2tog) 30 times, p6 [72sts].
2nd and 3rd sizes: Next row: p8/8, (p1, p2tog) 32/34 times, p7/9 [79/85 sts].
All sizes: Cast off.

To Make Up

Using a warm iron and a damp cloth. press parts lightly on wrong side.

Join shoulder seams.
Sew cast-off edge of shoulder frill along armhole edge, and sides of frill along cast-off edge at beginning of armhole shaping.

Make borders: With right side facing and 3mm hook, work 2 rows dc up left back, round neck and down right back. increasing and decreasing at corners as required.
Make 4 buttonloops on right back on 2nd row, first to come level with cast-off edge at armhole, 4th to come at neck edge, and remainder spaced evenly.
First mark position of buttons on left back with pins to ensure even spacing, then work loops to correspond.
To make a buttonloop: 2 ch, miss 1 dc.

Press seams. Sew on buttons.

Materials

Original materials called for: 3/3/4 50g balls 4 ply fingering.

A pair each Nos 10 and 12 (3¼mm and 2¾mm) needles.
A No 11 (3mm) crochet hook

4 small buttons.

Tension

28 sts and 36 rows to 4 inches over stocking-stitch on No 10 needles.

Size matters

Three sizes given for 22/24/26 inch chest; length from top of shoulders: 14½/16½/18½ inches.

Abbreviations

tbl: through back of loops
yfwd: yarn forward
s1k: slip one stitch knitwise
psso: pass the slipped stitch over
m1: pick up loop lying before next stitch and knit into back of it

ch: chain
dc: double crochet
[Editor's note:Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet, and so on - see "Terminology" in the side bar.]

A word on the wool.

The original colour combination is white for the apron with "Damask Rose" for the dress.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions

This is an A-line dress, knitted completely plain, with a high round neck and long sleeves.

Back

**
With No 12 needles, cast on 114/120/128 stitches and work 5 rows in garter-stitch, that is, every row knit

Change to No 10 needles and stocking-stitch, and, starting with a knit row, work 8 rows straight.

1st decrease row: k26/28/30, k2tog, k2tog tbl, k54/56/60, k2tog, k2tog tbl, k26/28/30. [110/116/124 sts]

Work 11/13/15 rows straight.

2nd decrease row: k25/27/29, k2tog, k2tog tbl, k52/54/58, k2tog, k2tog tbl, k25/27/29. [106/112/120 sts]

Work 11/13/15 rows straight.

3rd decrease row: k24/26/28, k2tog, k2tog tbl, k52/54/58, k2tog, k2tog tbl, k24/26/28. [102/108/116 sts]

Work 11/13/15 rows straight.

Continue decreasing 4 stitches thus on the next and every following 12th/14th/16th row until 82/88/96 sts; remain.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next row.

Work a few rows straight until back measures 12/13½/15 inches, ending with right side facing.

Shape armholes by casting off 4 sts. at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 62/68/72 stitches remain.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every alternate row until 56/60/64 stitches remain.
**

Work a few rows straight until back measures 14/16/17½ inches, ending with right side facing.

Divide for back opening:
Next row: k28/30/32, turn and leave remaining stitches on stitch-holder.

Continue straight on first set of stitches until back measures 16½/18½/20½ inches, ending with right side facing.

Shape shoulder by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next and following 2 alternate rows, then 2/3/4 stitches at the beginning of the following alternate row.
Work 1 row straight.
Leaving remaining 14/15/16 stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

With right side facing, rejoin yarn to remaining stitches and finish to correspond with the first side, reversing shapings.

Front

Work as for back from ** to **.
Work straight until front measures 15/16½/18½ inches, ending with right side facing.

Divide for neck:
Next row: k20/21/22, turn and leave remaining stitches on a stitch-holder.
Continue on these stitches for first side, decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on every row until 14/15/16 stitches remain.
Work a few rows straight until front matches back at armhole edge, ending with right side facing.

Shape shoulder by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next and following 2 alternate rows.
Work 1 row straight. Cast off remaining 2/3/4 stitches.

With right side facing, leave centre 16/18/20 stitches on a stitch-holder, and rejoin yarn to remaining stitches and finish to correspond with first side, reversing shapings.

Sleeves

With No 12 needles, cast on 40/44/46 sts. and work 7 rows garter-stitch.
Change to No 10 needles.
Next row: k1/3/2, m1 , (k2, m1 ) 19/19/21 times, k1/3/2: [60/64/68 sts].
Continue straight in stocking-stitch until sleeve measures 9½/10½/12 inches, ending with right side facing,

Shape top by casting off 4 stitches. at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of the next and every alternate row until 34 stitches remain.
Now decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row until 20 stitches remain.

Cast off.

To Make Up

Using a warm iron and a damp cloth. press parts lightly on wrong side.

Join shoulder seams.

Neckband: With right side facing and No 12 needles, start at top of left back and work as follows:-
Knit 14/15/16 from left back, pick up and k12/14/14 down left side of neck, k16/18/20 from centre front. pick up and k12/14/14 up right side, knit across 14/15/16 stitches from right back [68/76/80 sts].
Work 4 rows garter-stitch.
Cast off.

Left Back Border: With 3mm hook, work 2 rows dc along left back edge.
Right Back Border: Work as for left with the addition of 3 button loops, first to come ½ inch above start of opening, third to come at centre of neckband, and 2nd spaced evenly between.
Mark positions and work loops: 2 ch, miss 1 dc.
Sew on buttons.

Join side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Run 1 row shirring elastic directly above garter-stitch cuff. Press seams.

Materials

Original materials called for: 4/4/5 50g balls 4 ply fingering.

A pair each Nos 10 and 12 (3¼mm and 2¾mm) needles.
A No 11 (3mm) crochet hook

3 small buttons.

Shirring elastic for cuffs.

Tension

28 sts and 36 rows to 4 inches over stocking-stitch on No 10 needles.

Size matters

Three sizes given for 22/24/26 inch chest; length from top of shoulders: 16½/18½/20½ inches; sleeve seam: 9½/10½/12 inches.

Abbreviations

tbl: through back of loops
yfwd: yarn forward
s1k: slip one stitch knitwise
psso: pass the slipped stitch over
m1: pick up loop lying before next stitch and knit into back of it

ch: chain
dc: double crochet
[Editor's note:Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet, and so on - see "Terminology" in the side bar.]

A word on the wool.

The original colour combination is white for the apron with "Damask Rose" for the dress.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions

Knitted in 2 pieces with a V-neck, and detachable vestee.
Since the vestee is detachable and the buttons are attached to it, you could have more than one colour scheme, by knitting alternative vestees.
[Editor's note: "Ringing the changes" is a common theme for vintage homemade clothes, which seems like it stems from the 1940s "make do and mend" era, though personally I think the concept of avoiding waste (and sweating your assets!) is a much older set of values - Victorian or earlier.]

Back

With No 12 (2¾mm) needles cast on cast on 138sts and work as follows:

1st row (right side facing): k2; (p2, k4) 22 times; p2, k2.
2nd row: p2; (k2, p4) 22 times; k2, p2.
Repeat these 2 rows for 4 inches.
[Editor's note: Because I lengthened the pattern at the shoulders by about 2 inches, I compensated by shortened the pattern here - please see "adaptations" at the end of the instructions.]
Change to No 11 (3mm) needles and continue for a further 2 inches.

Start centre shaping:
1st row (right side facing): k2; (p2, k4) 11 times; m1p, p2, m1p; (k4, p2) 11 times; k2.
2nd row: p2; (k2, p4) 11 times; k4; (p4, k2) 11 times; p2.
3rd row: k2; (p2, k4) 11 times; p4; (k4, p2) 11 times; k2.
4th row: as second row.
5th row: k2; (p2, k4) 11 times; p1, m1p, p2, m1p, p1, (k4, p2) 11 times; k2.
6th row: p2; (k2, p4) 11 times; k6; (p4, k2) 11 times; p2.
7th row: k2; (p2, k4) 11 times; p6; (k4, p2) 11 times; k2.
8th row: as 6th.
9th row: k2; (p2, k4) 11 times; p2, m1k, p2, m1k, p2; (k4, p2) 11 times; k2.
10th row: p2; (k2, p4) 11 times; k2, p1, k2, p1, k2; (p4, k2) 11 times; p2.
11th row: k2; (p2, k4) 11 times; p2, k1, p2, k1, p2; (k4, p2) 11 times; k2.
12th row: as 10th.
13th row: k2; (p2, k4) 11 times; p2, k1, m1k, p2, m1k, k1, p2, (k4, p2) 11 times; k2.
14th row: p2; (k2, p4) 11 times; k2, p2, k2, p2, k2; (p4, k2) 11 times; p2.
15th row: k2; (p2, k4) 11 times; p2, k2, p2, k2, p2; (k4, p2) 11 times; k2.
16th row: as 14th.
17th row: k2; (p2, k4) 11 times; p2, k2, m1k, p2, m1k, k2, p2; (k4, p2) 11 times; k2.
18th row: p2; (k2, p4) 11 times; k2, p3, k2, p3, k2; (p4, k2) 11 times; p2.
19th row: k2; (p2, k4) 11 times; p2, k3, p2, k3, p2; (k4, p2) 11 times; k2.
20th row: as 18th.
21st row: k2; (p2, k4) 11 times; p2, k3, m1k, p2, m1k, k3, p2; (k4, p2) 11 times; k2.
22nd row: p2; (k2, p4) 12 times; k2; (p4, k2) 12 times; p2.
23rd row: k2; (p2, k4) 12 times; p2; (k4, p2) 12 times; k2.
24th row: as 22nd.

Continue thus, keeping continuity of rib and increasing 1 stitch at each side of centre 2 purl sts on next and every following 4th row until there are 180 sts, remembering that when increasing for purl sts to purl into back of loop and when increasing for knit sts to knit into back of loop,that is: the next 2 sets of increasings will be purl and the following 4 sets of increasings knit.
Continue the increasings in this way until 21 sets of increasings have been done in all and there are 180 sts on needle.
Work 3 rows straight.
Tie a contrast thread at each end of the row at this point to mark the start of the armholes.
Now continue centre increasings as before on next and every following 4th row, and at the same time shape armholes by k2tog at each end of next and every following 4th row, 15 times in all (you will still have 180 sts on needle).
Work 3 rows straight.

With right side facing, change to garter stitch, (that is, every row knit),
[Editor's note: I made an adaptation here - please see "adaptations" at the end of the instructions.]
and work 2 rows straight.
[Editor's note: I lengthened the pattern at this point to match the fronts where I created a deeper V - please see "adaptations" at the end of the instructions.]

Then, continuing in garter stitch, shape shoulders by casting off 4 sts at beginning of next 10 rows, then 12 sts at beginning of following 4 rows.
Cast off remaining stitches.

Front

Work exactly as for back until there are 172 sts.

Work 3 rows straight, then start to introduce the garter stitch at the centre as follows:

1st row (right side facing): Rib 82, k3, m1k, k2, m1k, k3, rib 82.
2nd row: Rib 80, k14, rib 80.
3rd row: Rib 80, m1k, k5; k2tog, wind yarn twice round needle, k2tog; k5, m1k, rib 80.
4th row: Rib 80, k7; (knit and purl into the two twists of wool to make a buttonhole), k7, rib 80.
5th row: Rib 80, k16, rib 80.
6th row: as 5th row.
7th row: Rib 80, m1k, k16, m1k, rib 80.
8th row: Rib 80, k18, rib 80.

Divide for neck:
Next row (right side facing): Rib 80, k9.
Turn, leaving remaining sts on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Next row: K9, rib 80.
Next row: Rib 80, m1p, k9.
Next row: K9, rib 81
Next row: Rib 81, k9.

Repeat the last 2 rows once more.
Next row: K9, rib 81

Put a coloured marker at the end of the row to mark the start of the armhole.

Continue in rib and garter stitch, shaping the armhole edge only by k2tog at the beginning of the next and every following 4th row, and at the same time make a buttonhole in the garter stitch border on the 2nd and every following 12th row until 5 in all are done, excluding first buttonhole at the centre front.

To make a buttonhole:- With wrong side facing, k2, k2tog, wind wool twice round needle, k2tog, k3, rib to end. On the next row: knit and purl into the two twists as before.

When the 5 buttonholes are done, continue in rib and garter stitch, still continue to decrease at the armhole edge on every 4th row until 15 sts have been decreased at this edge, and 75sts remain.

Work 3 rows straight.

Change to garter stitch over all sts,
[Editor's note: I made an adaptation here - please see "adaptations" at the end of the instructions.]
and work 2 rows straight.
[Editor's note: I lengthened the pattern at this point to create a deeper V neck - please see "adaptations" at the end of the instructions.]

With right side facing, continue in garter stitch and shape the shoulder by casting off 4sts at the beginning of next and following 4 alternate rows, then 14sts at the beginning of following 3 alternate rows.

Cast off remaining 13 stitches.

With side facing, rejoin wool to remaining sts, and work, to correspond with first shoulder, reversing the shaping.

Vestee

With white wool and No 11 needles, cast on 10 sts and knit 4 rows.

5th row: Knit, increasing 1 stitch at each end.
6th row: K4, p4, k4.
7th row: Knit.
8th row: as 6th.
9th row: K3, increase in next stitch, knit to last 4 sts, increase in next stitch, k3.

Work 3 rows straight in stocking stitch, keeping the 4sts at each end in garter-stitch throughout.

Repeat last 4 rows once more. Join in blue.

Next row (in blue, right side facing): K3, increase in next stitch, knit to last 4sts, increase in next stitch, k3.

Work 3 rows straight in blue with border as before.
Rejoin white.
Now continue in stocking-stitch in stripes of 6 rows white and 4 rows blue with border as before and increasing 1 stitch inside the border on next and every following 4th row until there are 42 stitches.

Next row (in white): K4, p34, k4.

This completes the 5th white stripe.

Break white, join in blue and knit 5 rows.
Cast off.

To Make Up

Press work very lightly taking care not to spoil rib.
Join shoulders with a backstitch seam.

Sleeve Edgings: With right side facing, No 11 needles and contrast yarn, pick up and knit 92 sts between markers on back and front.
[Editor's note: The number of stitches you pick up depends on how large you want to make the armhole; I advise you to pin the side seams together and try on the top before finally deciding where the markers should be.
Once decided, as a general rule, pick up sts on 2 out of every 3 row ends on rib section and pick up every alternate row end on the garter stitch section.]

Knit 8 rows; cast off.

Join side seams.
Neaten buttonholes with matching sewing cotton.
Press vestee, then sew on buttons to match buttonholes.
Press seams.

Materials

Original materials called for: 7 ozs Patons Beehive Fingering 3-ply in main shade (powder blue) and a small ball (less than 1oz) in white.

A pair each Nos 11 and 12 (3mm and 2¾mm) needles.

11 small white buttons.

My version is knitted in 5 x 50g balls of Adriafil Avantgarde 3 ply using Nos 13 and 12 needles.

Tension

Ribbing is difficult to measure, but it is equivalent to a basic tension of 8 sts and 10 rows to an inch over stocking-stitch on No 11 needles.

Size matters

Original sized for bust 34-36 inches;
length from top of shoulders: 21 inches.

See "adapting the size".

Abbreviations

m1p: pick up loop lying before next stitch and purl into back of it.

m1k: pick up loop lying before next stitch and knit into back of it.

A word on the wool.

I have so many words on the wool I am not sure where to begin.
I started to knit this sweater using the Adriafil Avantgarde 3 ply. I bought 4 x 50g balls at 220 metres each but the back took more than 2 balls and so the project was on hold; I finally acquired another ball in a different dye lot, hence the huge delay in publishing as I had to make adaptations to blend it in. Luckily this will not be the case for you.

Jamiesons have an excellent range of colours in "2ply laceweight" which states: This yarn can be used in vintage patterns which call for "3ply yarns".

I can suggest looking at Susan Crawford's new Excelana range from John Arbon textiles. I have great hopes of this venture solving my knitting issues in the future: 4 ply available now and hopefully 3 ply in the future.

I have not yet experimented with either of these two latter yarns.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Adaptations:

I made quite a few casual adaptations to "improve" the design for my figure - but as usual this had a knock-on effect in some other areas - so I describe what happened here.

Adaptation 1: When changing to garter stitch the ribbing pulls at the garter stitch section and causes puckering. You can see this happening slightly in the original photo. To compensate for this, on the first knit row of the garter stitch (right side facing) I knitted across the 4 knit sts and and the k2tog for the 2 purl sts. This changed the number of sts for the casting off.

So for the Front sections I worked k2tog 10 times on the p2 sections of the rib; I then shaped the shoulder by casting off 3sts at the beginning of next and following 4 alternate rows, then 13sts at the beginning of the following 2 alternate rows, then 12sts at the beginning the final 2 alternate rows.

For the Back, I worked it slightly differently without decreasing across the back of the neck. So I worked k2tog across the first 11 p2 sections of the rib, but incorporated the centre 7 p2 sections into the garter stitch as k2, then k2tog across the last 11 p2 sections of the rib.
For the shoulder shaping I cast off 3 sts at beginning of next 10 rows, then 12 sts at beginning of following 4 rows.

Adaptation 2: I lengthened the garter stitch sections by about 2 inches to make the V neck lower. This was to avoid "waist boobz" (please see Kate's blog, "needled" ** on the subject).

Adding 2 inches at the shoulder, lengthens the whole sweater, so I knitted 2 inches less at the start of the sweater - as it is not overly short in the first place.

Having done this, you may find the armhole markers are (up to 2 inches) too low, so check this before you do the sleeve edging and sewing up the side seams. In my case, I have chubby little arms so wanted the armhole slightly larger in any case.

** Unlike Kate I have a large bosom with a low bust point, so need no assistance in producing waist boobz - in fact I seek to reverse the effect.
Plunging V necks are very flattering for large busts - and this pattern has the advantage that the vestee ensures that the plunge does not lack the appropriate level of decorum for daywear - not that large and revealing bosoms ever seemed a problem in the 1950s - though thinking again I am probably way past the age when women were allowed out to flaunt their figures.

See Kate's lovely design "by-the-sea-shore" where she reverses the "waist boob" effect. It is also an off-kilter nautical design in a way so sits nicely with this entry.

Adapting the size:

The original pattern is for one size: 34-36 inch bust. The sweater is designed to fit snugly, but is ribbed which allows some leeway on the exact fit.

It is designed to be knitted in 3 ply at about 30 sts to 4 inches. I have used a 4 ply at about 28 sts to 4 inches, and the size would have been acceptable for me - a UK size 12 or "medium".

I think this may be suitable for using a thicker yarn with larger needles and getting a larger result.

Instructions:

The gloves are worked in blackberry stitch (also known as trinity stitch) on 2 needles. The nature of this stitch means that the number of stitches can vary from row to row; this can seem a little puzzling as it means the instructions for the right and left hand gloves seem not to be symmetrical - but they should work out OK.

Right-hand Glove:

Using two Needles, cast on 54 sts.

1st row: k1, purl to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: k1, * p3tog; k1p1k1 in next stitch; repeat from * to last st, k1.
3rd row: k1, purl to last stitch, k1.
4th row: k1, * k1p1k1 in next stitch; p3tog; repeat from * to last st, k1.

These 4 rows form the basic pattern.

Repeat from 1st to 4th row five times.

The Thumb

Next row: k1, p32, k1. Turn
Next row: k1, (p3tog; k1p1k1 in next stitch) twice, p3tog, cast on 12 sts, turn.

Then proceed as follows:-

1st row: k1, p20, k1.
2nd row: k1; (k1p1k1 in next stitch; p3tog) five times; k1.
3rd row: k1, p20, k1.
4th row: k1; (p3tog; k1p1k1 in next stitch) five times; k1.

Repeat 1st to 4th row three times.

Then proceed as follows:-

1st row: k1, (k1, k2togtbl, k4, k2tog, k1) twice, k1.
2nd row: k1, p16, k1.
3rd row: k1, (k1, k2togtbl, k2, k2tog, k1) twice, k1.

Break off wool and run end through remaining sts.
Draw up and fasten off securely.

With wrong side facing, using the needle containing the remaining 22 sts, join in wool and knit up 12 sts from 12 cast-on sts at the base of the thumb; p19, k1 across remaining sts.
Commencing at 2nd row, repeat pattern on these 54 sts., until work measures 4 ins, from commencement, ending with 2nd row of pattern.

First Finger

Next row: k1, p34, increase once in next stitch. Turn.
Next row: k1, (p3tog; k1p1k1 in next stitch) four times, cast on 2sts. Turn.

Then proceed as follows:-

1st row: k1, p17, k1.
2nd row: k1; (k1p1k1 in next stitch; p3tog) four times; k1p1k1 in next stitch; k1.
3rd row: k1, p19, k1.
4th row: k1; (p3tog; k1p1k1 in next stitch) four times; p3tog; k1.

Repeat from 1st to 4th row four times, then 1st and 2nd rows once, decreasing one stitch in last row.

Then proceed as follows:-

1st row: (k1, k2togtbl, k4, k2tog, k1) twice.
2nd row: k1, p14, k1.
3rd row: (k1, k2togtbl, k2, k2tog, k1) twice,

Finish off as given for Thumb.

Second Finger

With right side of work facing, join in wool and knit up 4 sts. from 2 cast-on sts. at base of First Finger, p5, k1. Turn.

Next row: k1, (k1p1k1 in next stitch; p3tog) four times, cast on 4sts. Turn.

Then proceed as follows:-

1st row: k1, p19, k1.
2nd row: k1; (p3tog; k1p1k1 in next stitch) four times; p3tog; k1.
3rd row: k1, p17, k1.
4th row: k1; (k1p1k1 in next stitch; p3tog) four times; k1p1k1 in next stitch; k1.

Repeat from 1st to 4th row five times, then 1st and 2nd rows once, increasing one stitch in last row.
Decrease and finish off as given for First Finger.

Third Finger

With right side of work facing, join in wool and knit up 5sts. from 4 cast-on sts. at base of Second Finger, p5, increase in the next stitch. Turn.

Next row: k1, (p3tog; k1p1k1 in next stitch) three times, p3tog, p1; cast on 4sts. Turn.

Then work exactly as given for First Finger.

Fourth Finger

With right side of work facing, join in wool and knit up 4 sts. from 4 cast-on sts. at base of Third Finger, p5, k1.

Then proceed as follows:-

1st row: k1; (k1p1k1 in next stitch; p3tog) four times; k1.
2nd row: k1, p16, k1.
3rd row: k1; (p3tog; k1p1k1 in next stitch) four times; k1.
4th row: k1, p16, k1.

Repeat from 1st to 4th row three times, then 1st row once.

Then proceed as follows:-

1st row: (k1, k2togtbl, k3, k2tog, k1) twice.
2nd row: k1, p12, k1.
3rd row: (k1, k2togtbl, k1, k2tog, k1) twice.

Finish off as given for First Finger.

The Frill

With wrong side of work facing, pick up 52 sts, from cast-on edge of glove. Join in wool.

1st row: k1, * k2tog; repeat from * to last st, k1.

Work 3 rows in plain knitting.
[Editor's note: I think they may mean garter stitch here - every row knitted.]

5th row: k1, * increase once in next st, repeat from * to last st, k1. [There should now be 52 sts. on needle].
6th row: k1, * k2, p1, won, repeat from * to last 3 sts, k3.
7th row: k1, * p2, k2, repeat from* to last 3 sts, p2, k1.
8th row: k1, * k2, p2, won, repeat from * to last 3 sts, k3.
9th row: k1, * p2, k3, repeat from* to last 3 sts, p2, k1.
10th row: k1, * k2, p3, won, repeat from * to last 3 sts, k3.
11th row: k1, * p2, k4, repeat from* to last 3 sts, p2, k1.
12th row: k1, * k2, p4, won, repeat from * to last 3 sts, k3.

Continue in this manner until there are 164 sts. on needle.

Next row: k1, * p2, k8, repeat from* to last 3 sts, p2, k1.

Cast off knitways.

Left-hand Glove:

Using two Needles, cast on 54 sts.

Work exactly as given for Right-hand Glove until Thumb is reached.

The Thumb

Next row: k1, p31, cast on 11 sts. Turn.
Next row: k1; (k1p1k1 in next stitch; p3tog) five times; k1. Turn

Then proceed as follows:-

1st row: k1, p20, k1.
2nd row: k1; (p3tog; k1p1k1 in next stitch) five times; k1.
3rd row: k1, p20, k1.
4th row: k1; (k1p1k1 in next stitch; p3tog) five times; k1.

Repeat 1st to 4th row three times.

Decrease and finish off as given for the Thumb of Right-hand Glove.

Using needle containing 21 sts, join in wool and knit up 11 stitches from 11 cast-on sts, at the base of the thumb; p21, k1 across remaining stitches.

Continue in pattern on these 54 sts until wont measures 4 ins from commencement, ending with 2nd row of pattern.

First Finger

Next row: k1, p35, cast on 5 sts. Turn.
Next row: k1, (p3tog; k1p1k1 in next stitch) four times, p3tog, k1. Turn.

Then work exactly is given for First Finger of of Right-hand Glove.

Second Finger

With right side of work facing, join in wool and knit up 4 sts. from 5 cast-on sts. at base of First Finger, p5, cast on 4sts. Turn.

Next row: k1, (p3tog; k1p1k1 in next stitch) four times, p3tog; k1. Turn.

Then proceed as follows:-

1st row: k1, p17, k1.
2nd row: k1; (k1p1k1 in next stitch; p3tog) four times; k1p1k1 in next stitch; k1.
3rd row: k1, p19, k1.
4th row: k1; (p3tog; k1p1k1 in next stitch) four times; p3tog; k1.

Repeat from 1st to 4th row five times, then 1st and 2nd rows once, decreasing one stitch at the end of the last row.
Decrease and finish off as given for First Finger of Right-hand Glove.

Third Finger

With right side of work facing, join in wool and knit up 5sts. from 4 cast-on sts. at base of Second Finger, p6, cast on 3sts. Turn.

Next row: k1, (k1p1k1 in next stitch; p3tog) four times, k1p1k1 in next stitch; k1. Turn.

Then proceed as follows:-

1st row: k1, p19, k1.
2nd row: k1; (p3tog; k1p1k1 in next stitch) four times; p3tog; k1.
3rd row: k1, p17, k1.
4th row: k1; (k1p1k1 in next stitch; p3tog) four times; k1p1k1 in next stitch; k1.

Repeat from 1st to 4th row four times, then 1st and 2nd rows once, increasing one stitch in last row.
Decrease and finish off as given for First Finger of Right-hand Glove.

Fourth Finger

With right side of work facing, join in wool and knit up 4 sts. from 3 cast-on sts. at base of Third Finger, p6, k1.

Then work exactly as given for Fourth Finger of Right-hand Glove.

Work the Frill as given for Right-hand Glove.

Making Up:

With a damp cloth and hot iron press very lightly.
Sew up Thumb, Finger and Side seams, by sewing together corresponding ridges (formed by the stitch knitted at each end of every row).

Materials

1 oz Patons Beehive Fingering 2ply.

One pair of No 12 (2¾ mm) needles.

Tension

3 patterns (12 sts) to 1 inch. Adjust your needle size to obtain the right tension.

Approximately 36sts 4 inches on No 12 needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

Width all round above thumb, 5½ ins.
Length from frill to tip of middle finger 8½ ins.

[Editor's note: 5½ins seems a bit small? You may find that despite my notes on the wool weight below that you could use a "4ply" yarn with a larger gauge and/or adjust the needles to get the fit you need. Measure your hand and do a swatch....always Good Advice!]

Abbreviations

won: wool over needle. Makes an extra stitch which forms a small pattern hole when knitted on the next row.

p3tog: purl 3 stitches together (decrease 2)

k1p1k1: knit and purl into front, then knit into back of next stitch (increase 2)

k2tog: knit 2 stitches together (decrease).

k2togtbl: knit 2 stitches together through back loops or "ssk" (slip slip knit) is a method of knitting 2 stitches together but into the backs of the stitches rather than the usual "k2tog" which knits into the fronts.

A word on the wool

Although it may be a literal 2ply, I think the stated tension implies it is more like a 3 ply weight.

Throughout this site I state that it's hard to get 3ply yarns these days - and now I find Jamieson's have a different web address (now corrected on my links I hope) and a range of yarns that is new to me.

The yarns are properly described as to the number of strands plied together, (eg "2ply jumper weight"), but also helpfully tell you what the wool weight is equivalent to.

So they have an excellent range of colours in "2ply laceweight" which states: This yarn can be used in vintage patterns which call for "3ply yarns". I really wish I had discovered this for some of my other projects.

They also have a "cobweb lace" which might be a traditional 2 ply weight.

I can't wait to experiment.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist

Instructions:

The gloves are worked in an openwork ladder stitch created by working "yarn over needle" or eyelets on every row.
It reminds me of string-vest patterns from the 1960s (very healthy) - but don't let that put you off...

Right-hand Glove:

Using two Needles, cast on 80 sts

Work 2 rows in plain knitting.
3rd row: k1, * p1, won, k2tog; repeat from * to last st, k1.
Repeat this row five times.
9th row: * k15, k2tog, k3tog; repeat from * to end of row.
Work 3 rows in plain knitting.
Repeat 3rd row six times.
19th row: * k12, k2tog, k3tog; repeat from * to end of row.
Work 3 rows in plain knitting.
Repeat 3rd row six times.
29th row: k2, p1, k1, p1, k2tog, * (p1, k1) twice, p1, k2tog; repeat from * to end of row.
30th row: k2, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end of row.

Repeat 30th row 6 times, increasing 2 sts in last row.

Repeat 3rd row thirty-two times.

The Thumb

Next row: k1, (p1, won, k2tog) eleven times; k1. Turn
Next row: k1, (p1, won, k2tog) three times; k1; cast on 10 sts loosely. Turn.

Working on these 20 sts, repeat 3rd row twenty-two times (length of
Thumb and Fingers may be varied to suit individual requirements).

Then proceed as follows:-

1st row: knit plain.
2nd row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.
3rd row: (k3, k2tog, k2togtbl, k3) twice.
4th row: as second row.
5th row: (k2, k2tog, k2togtbl, k2) twice.

Break off wool and run end through remaining stitches.
Draw up and fasten off securely.

With right side facing, using the needle containing the remaining 25 sts, join in wool and knit up 10 sts from 10 cast-on sts at the base of the Thumb; wfwd, k2tog, (p1, won, k2 tog) four times, k1, across remaining 15 stitches.

Working on these 50 sts, repeat 3rd row of main pattern twenty-five times.

First Finger

Next row: k1, (p1, won, k2tog) ten times; k1. Turn
Next row: k1, (p1, won, k2tog) four times; p1, cast on 3 sts. Turn.

Working on these 17 sts, repeat 3rd row of main pattern twenty-five times.

Then proceed as follows:-

1st row: k14, k2tog, k1.
2nd row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.
3rd row: (k1, k2togtbl, k3, k2tog) twice.
4th row: as second row.
5th row: (k1, k2togtbl, k1, k2tog) twice.

Break off wool and run end through remaining stitches.
Draw up and fasten off securely.

Second Finger

With right side of work facing, join in wool and knit up 3 sts from 3 cast-on sts at base of First Finger, k2tog, p1, won, k2tog, k1. Turn.

Next row: k1, (p1, won, k2tog) four times, p1, cast on 3sts. Turn.

Working on these 17 sts, repeat 3rd row of main pattern thirty times. Decrease and finish off as given for First Finger.

Third Finger

With right side of work facing, join in wool and knit up 3 sts from 3 cast-on sts at base of Second Finger, k2tog, p1, won, k2tog, k1. Turn.

Next row: k1, (p1, won, k2tog) four times, p1, cast on 3sts. Turn.

Working on these 17 sts, repeat 3rd row of main pattern twenty-eight times. Decrease and finish off as given for First Finger.

Fourth Finger

With right side of work facing, join in wool and knit up 3 sts from 3 cast-on sts at base of Third Finger, k2tog, p1, won, k2tog, k1. Turn.

Next row: k1, (p1, won, k2tog) four times, k1, cast on 3sts. Turn.

Working on these 14 sts, repeat 3rd row of main pattern eighteen times.

Then proceed as follows:-

1st row: knit plain.
2nd row: k1, purl to the last stitch, k1.
3rd row: (k1, k2togtbl, k2, k2tog) twice.
4th row: as second row.
5th row: (k1, k2togtbl, k2tog) twice.

Finish off as given for First Finger.

Left-hand Glove:

Cast on 80 sts and work exactly as given for Right-hand Glove until Thumb is reached.

The Thumb

Next row: k1, (p1, won, k2tog) eight times, p1, cast on 9 sts. Turn.
Next row: k1, (p1, won, k2tog) six times, k1. Turn.

Work on these 20 sts exactly as given for Thumb of Right-hand Glove.

Using needle containing 15sts, join in wool and knit up 11 stitches from 9 cast-on sts, at the base of the thumb; wfwd, k2tog, (p1,won, k2tog) 7 times, k1, across remaining 24 sts.

Working on these 50 sts, repeat 3rd row of main pattern twenty-five times.

First Finger

Next row: k1, (p1, won, k2tog) ten times; p1, cast on 3 sts. Turn
Next row: k1, (p1, won, k2tog) five times; k1, Turn.

Then work on these 17 sts, exactly is given for First Finger of Right-hand Glove.

Second Finger

With right side of work facing, join in wool and knit up 3sts from 3 cast-on sts at base of First Finger; k2tog, p1, won, k2tog, p1, cast on 3sts. Turn.

Next row: k1, (p1, won, k2tog) five times; k1, Turn.

Then work on these 17 sts, exactly is given for Second Finger of Right-hand Glove.

Third Finger

With right side of work facing, join in wool and knit up 3sts from 3 cast-on sts at base of Second Finger; k2tog, p1, won, k2tog, p1, cast on 3sts. Turn.

Next row: k1, (p1, won, k2tog) five times; k1, Turn.

Then work on these 17 sts, exactly is given for Third Finger of Right-hand Glove.

Fourth Finger

With right side of work facing, join in wool and knit up 3sts from 3 cast-on sts at base of Third Finger; k2tog, p1, won, k2tog, k1. Turn.

Next row: k1, (p1, won, k2tog) four times; k1, Turn.

Then work on these 14 sts, exactly is given for Fourth Finger of Right-hand Glove.

Work the Frill as given for Right-hand Glove.

Making Up:

With a damp cloth and hot iron press very lightly.
Sew up Thumb, Finger and Side seams, by sewing together corresponding ridges (formed by the stitch knitted at each end of every row).

Materials

1 oz Patons Beehive Fingering 2ply.

One pair of No 13 (2¼ mm) needles.

Tension

10 sts to 1 inch over pattern (not stretched).
Adjust your needle size to obtain the right tension.

Approximately 36sts 4 inches on No 12 needles over stocking stitch.

Size matters

Width all round above thumb, 5 ins.
Length from frill to tip of middle finger 9 ins.

[Editor's note: 5ins seems a bit small? You may find that despite my notes on the wool weight below that you could use a "4ply" yarn with a larger gauge and/or adjust the needles to get the fit you need. Measure your hand and do a swatch....always Good Advice!]

Abbreviations

won/wfwd: wool over needle/wool forward. Makes an extra stitch which forms a small pattern hole when knitted on the next row.

k2tog: knit 2 stitches together (decrease).

k2togtbl: knit 2 stitches together through back loops or "ssk" (slip slip knit) is a method of knitting 2 stitches together but into the backs of the stitches rather than the usual "k2tog" which knits into the fronts.

A word on the wool

Although it may be a literal 2ply, I think the stated tension implies it is more like a 3 ply weight.

Throughout this site I state that it's hard to get 3ply yarns these days - and now I find Jamieson's have a different web address (now corrected on my links I hope) and a range of yarns that is new to me.

The yarns are properly described as to the number of strands plied together, (eg "2ply jumper weight"), but also helpfully tell you what the wool weight is equivalent to.

So they have an excellent range of colours in "2ply laceweight" which states: This yarn can be used in vintage patterns which call for "3ply yarns". I really wish I had discovered this for some of my other projects.

They also have a "cobweb lace" which might be a traditional 2 ply weight.

I can't wait to experiment.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist

Instructions.

Figures in brackets refer to larger sizes; where only one figure is given, this refers to all sizes.

The Back

With No 9 needles cast on 106 (118) {126} stitches and work 10 rows in k2/p2 rib, starting and ending k2 on the first row, and increasing 7 (7) {11} stitches evenly across on last row by working twice into every 14th (16th) {11th} stitch. [113 (125) {137} sts]
Change to No 8 needles and pattern.

1st row (right side facing): k1, * p3, k1; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: k4, * p1, k3; repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
3rd row: as 1st row
4th row: as 2nd row
5th row: k1, p1, * k1. p3; repeat from * to last 3 sts., k1, p1, k1.
6th row: k2, * p1, k3; repeat from * to last 3 sts.. p1, k2.
7th row: as 5th row
8th row: as 6th row

These 8 rows form the pattern.
Continue straight in pattern until back measures 14½ (15) {15} inches at centre.
Then with right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 6 (8) {8} stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of next and every following alternate row until 89 (97) {105} stitches remain. Work straight until back measures 17 (17½) {17½} inches, increasing 5 (5) {5} sts. evenly across on last row: [94 (102) {110} sts]

Next row (right side facing): * k2, p2; repeat from * to last 2 sts., k2.
Next row: * p2, k2; repeat from * to last 2 sts., p2.

Continue straight in rib until back measures 23 (23½) {23½} inches.
With right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 10 (11) {11} sts. at beginning of next 6 rows; cast off remaining stitches loosely.

Pocket Linings (make 2)

With No. 8 needles, cast on 26 (26) {30} sts. and work 4½ (4½) {4½} inches stocking stitch ending with a purl row; leave stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.
Work another piece the same.

Left Front

Left. With No. 9 needles, cast on 63 (71) {79} sts. and work in rib as follows:
1st row: * k2, p2; repeat from * to last 3 sts, k3.
2nd row: k1, p2, * k2, p2; repeat from * to end.

Repeat these 2 rows 4 times more, and on last row increase 2 sts. as follows:
Increase row: k1, (p2, k2) 7 times, increase in next stitch, rib to last 4 sts, increase in next stitch, rib 3: [65 (73) {81} sts]

Change to No. 8 needles and work as follows:

1st row (right side facing): k1; (p3, k1) 10 (12) {14} times; p1; (k2, p2) 5 times; k3.
2nd row: k1; (p2, k2) 5 times; p2, k1; (p1, k3) 10 (12) {14} times; k1.
3rd row: as 1st row
4th row: as 2nd row
5th row: k1, p1; (k1, p3) 10 (12) {14} times; (k2, p2) 5 times; k3.
6th row: k1; (p2, k2) 5 times; p2; (k3, p1) 10 (12) {14} times; k2.
7th row: as 5th row
8th row: as 6th row

Repeat these 8 rows until work measures 5 (5) {5} inches from start.

Next row (insert pocket): Pattern 8 (12) {14}; (k2, p2) 6 (6) {7}times; k2; pattern 8 (12) {14}; rib 23.
Next row: rib 23; pattern 8 (12) {14}; (p2, k2) 6 (6) {7} times; p2; pattern 8 (12) {14}.
Repeat last 2 rows twice more, then 1st row once.

Next row (wrong side facing): rib 23; pattern 8 (12) {14}; cast off 26 (26) {30} in rib; pattern 8 (12) {14}.

Next row: pattern 8 (12) {14}; pattern across 26 (26) {30} stitches of one of the pocket linings, in place of those cast off; pattern 8 (12) {14}; rib 23.

Continue in pattern with 23 sts. at front edge in rib until front measures same as back at side edge and ending with same pattern row.

Then with right side facing, shape armholes by casting off 6 (8) {8} stitches at the beginning of the next row, then k2tog at armhole edge on alternate rows until 53 (59) {65} stitches remain. Work straight until back measures 17 (17½) {17½} inches, increasing 6 (4) {2} sts. evenly across on patterned part of last row: [59 (63) {67} sts]

Now continue in rib over all stitches until front matches back, then with right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 10 (11) {11} stitches at the beginning of the next and following 2 alternate rows, armhole edge; leave remaining stitches on a spare needle for the time being.
[Editor's note: You continue on these stitches later when you make the collar.]

Right Front

With No. 9 needles, cast on 63 (71) {79} sts. and work in rib as follows:
1st row (right side facing): k3, * p2, k2; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: * p2, k2; repeat from * to last 3 sts; p2, k1.

Repeat these 2 rows once more.
Make buttonhole over the next two rows thus: Rib 5, cast off 3, rib to end and back, casting on 3 over those cast off.
Work a further 4 rows in rib, increasing 2 sts on last row as follows:

Increase row: rib 3, increase in next stitch, rib to last 28sts, increase in next stitch, rib to end: [65 (73) {81} sts]

Change to No. 8 needles and work as follows:

Next row: k3, (p2, k2) 5 times; p1; (k1, p3) 10 (12) {14} times; k1.
Next row: k1, (k3, p1) 10 (12) {14} times; k1, p2; (k2, p2) 5 times; k1.

Finish to correspond with left front, reversing all shapings and making 4 more buttonholes as before up front edge, the last one to come about 1 inch below start of yoke ribbing, and the remaining 3 evenly spaced between. Mark position of buttons on left front with pins, then work holes to correspond.

The first row of pocket top will read:
With right side facing, rib 23, pattern 8 (12) {14}; (k2, p2) 6 (6) {7} times; k2; pattern 8 (12) {14}.

Sleeves

With No. 10 needles, cast on 54 (54) {54} sts. and work 3 inches k2/p2 rib, having a k2 at each end on the right side, and increasing 3 sts. evenly across on last row: 57 (57) {57} sts.

Change to No 8 needles and work 8 rows in pattern as for back.

Continue in pattern and shape sides by increasing 1 stitch at each end of 7th and every following 8th row until there are 73 (73) {73}sts, then on every following 4th row until there are 83 (83) {83}stitches, taking the extra stitches into pattern as they are made.

Work straight until sleeve measures 18 inches or required length.

With right side facing, shape top by casting off 4 sts. at beginning of next 2 rows, then k2tog at the beginning of every row until 45 (45) {45} sts. remain, then at each end of every row until 25 (25) {25} sts. remain.

Cast off.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Join shoulder seams.

Roll Collar: On the left front, continue in rib on the remaining 29 (30) {34} sts. working short rows to provide shaping thus:

** Work ½ (½) {1} inch in rib, ending at the front edge.
Next row (wrong side facing): rib to last 9 sts; turn; rib to end.
Repeat from ** twice more.
Continue straight in rib until piece fits round to centre back of neck; cast off in rib.
Then on the rightfront. Work as for left but with right instead of wrong side facing when shaping.

Join side and sleeve seams; insert sleeves.
Join collar very neatly, matching ribs carefully; sew along back of neck.

Catch down pocket linings.
Sew on buttons.
Work a row of double crochet, then a row of slip-stitches up front edge and round back of neck.
Press seams.

Materials

Original uses Patons Double Quick Knitting,
in Jade Green.
21 (22) {23} ozs

[Jill used 11 x 50g balls Phildar Partner 3.5]

A pair each of Nos
10 (3¼mm), 9 (3¼mm) and 8 (4mm) needles.
One No 11 (3mm) crochet hook

5 buttons.

Tension

22sts x 30 rows to 4 ins in stocking stitch on 4mm needles.

Size matters

The pattern is given in 3 sizes to fit bust:
33-34 (35-36) {37-38} inches;
length from top of shoulders, 23 (23½) {23½} inches; and
sleeve seam, 18 (18) {18} inches.

Abbreviations

Increase: increase by knitting into front and back of the next stitch.
k2tog: (decrease) knit 2 sts together.
p2tog: (decrease) purl 2 sts together.

dc: double crochet.
[Editor's note: Remember this is English double crochet where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.]

A word on the wool.

The original cardigan was knitted in a vintage Bainin yarn.

Jill used Phildar Partner 3.5 (50% Nylon / 25% Wool / 25% Acrylic: 111m per 50g ball).

Jill's plan for the summer version: Phildar Cabotine (55% Cotton / 45% Acrylic: 124 metres per 50g ball)

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Stitch Detail

Instructions.

Figures in brackets refer to larger sizes; where only one figure is given, this refers to all sizes.

The Back

With No 9 needles cast on 98 (104 : 110: 116 : 122) sts.
1st row: P2, (kb1, p2) to end.
2nd row: K2, (pbl, k2) to end.

Repeat the last 2 rows 3 times more, then 1st row once, increasing 1st at both ends of last row on lst, 3rd and 5th sizes.

Increase row: K8 (10 : 14: 16: 20), kfb *p7, (k2, pfb) 6 times, k2, p7 *; (k1, p1, then k1, p1 in next st) 4 times, k2; repeat from * to *, kfb, knit to end. [118 (122 : 130 : 134: 142) sts]

Change to No 7 needles and pattern as follows:

1st row: (kb1, p1) 5 (6 : 8 : 9 : 11) times; * k7, (p2, k2) 6 times, p2. k7 *; p18; repeat from * to *, (p1, kb1) to end.
2nd row: k10 (12 : 16 : 18 : 22); * p7, (k2, p2) 6 times, k2, p7 *; k1, (work k1, p1, k1 into next st, p3tog) 4 times, k1; repeat from * to *; knit to end.
3rd row: (kb1, p1) 5 (6 : 8 : 9 : 11) times; * cp7, (p2, k2) 6 times, p2, cp7 *; p18; repeat from * to *; (pl, kb1) to end.
4th row: k10 (12 : 16 : 18 : 22); repeat from * to * as 2nd row; k1, (p3tog, then into next st work k1, p1, k1) 4 times, k1; repeat from * to * as 2nd row; knit end.
5th row: (kb1, p1) 5 (6 : 8 : 9 : 11) times; * k7, p2, (c6L, p2) 3 times, k7 *; p18; repeat from * to *; (p1, kb1) to end.
6th row: As 2nd row.
7th row: As 3rd row.
8th row: As 4th row
9th row: As 1st row
10th row: As 2nd row
11th row: (kb1, p1) 5 (6 : 8 : 9 : 11) times, * cp7, p2, k2, p2, (c6R, p2) twice, k2, p2, cp7 *; p18; repeat from * to *, (p1, kb1) to end.
12th row: As 4th row

These 12 rows form the pattern.

Continue in straight until work measures 20 ins, ending with right side facing for next row.

Shape Armhole:
Cast off 4 (5 : 6 : 6 : 7) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows; then cast off 4 (5: 6: 7: 8) sts at the beginning of the following 2 rows. [100 (100 : 104 : 106 : 110) sts]

Continue straight until armhole measures 7½ (7½ : 8: 8: 9) ins, ending after a wrong-side row.

Shape Shoulder and Neck:
Cast off 8 (8 : 10 : 11: 13) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Next row: Cast off 8, pattern until there are 25sts on the right-hand needle, cast off 18, pattern to end.

Continue on the last set of stitches.

Next row: Cast off 8, pattern to end.
Next row: Cast off 5, pattern to end.

Repeat the last 2 rows once more.
Cast off the remaining sts.

Join yarn to neck edge of remaining sts and work to match lst side, reversing shapings.

Pocket linings (make 2)

[Editor's note: You may note from the photograph that I omitted pockets on my cardigan - actually I think it looks best with pockets, and I plan to add them in later, but if you don't want them, simply leave out these sections.]

With No 9 needles cast on 38sts.

1st row: K2, (p2, k2) to end.
2nd row: P2, (k2, p2) to end.

Repeat the last 2 rows for 5 inches, ending after 1st row.

Next row: P3, increase in the next stitch, rib to the last 4 sts, increase in the next stitch, p3.

Leave the stitches on a spare needle or stitch holder.

The Right Front

With No 9 needles cast on 58 (61 : 64 : 67 : 70) sts.

1st row: K1, (kb1, p2) to end.
2nd row: (k2, pbl) to last st, k1.

Repeat the last 2 rows once more.

Next row (buttonhole): Rib3, cast off 3, rib to end.
Next row: Work in rib, casting on 3sts over those cast off.

Work 3 more rows in rib, increasing 1st at the end of the last row on the 1st, 3rd and 5th sizes. [59 (61 : 65 : 67 : 71) sts]

Increase row: K8 (10 : 14: 16: 20), kfb; repeat from * to * as increase row on back; (k1, p1, then k1, p1 in next st) twice, k2; turn, leaving the remaining 8 sts on a safety-pin to work the buttonhole band later.

Change to No 7 needles and continue to work on 60 (62 : 66 : 68 : 72) sts as follows:

1st row: P10; repeat from * to * as 1st row of back, then (p1, kb1) to end.
2nd row: K10 (12 : 16 : 18 : 22); repeat from * to * as 2nd row of back; k1 (work k1, p1, k1 into next st., p3tog) twice, k1.

Keeping bramble stitch and cable pattern correct, decrease 1 stitch at the end of the following 21st row, then the following 12th row.
Work 1 row.

Next row (place pocket): P10, slip the next 40 stitches on to a stitch holder or spare needle;
work across the pocket lining stitches thus: k7, rib 26, k7;
then pattern across the remaining stitches.

Continue in pattern, decreasing 1 stitch at side edge on the following 10th row. Then continue straight on the remaining 57 (59 : 63 : 65 : 69) stitches until work measures 13 inches.
Increase 1 stitch at the side edge on the next row and following 18th row.
Then continue straight until work matches back to armhole, ending at side edge.

Shape Armhole:
Cast off 4 (5 : 6 : 6 : 7) sts at the beginning of the next row, and then 4 (5 : 6 : 7 : 8) stitches on the following alternate row. Continue straight until armhole measures 5 (5 : 5½ : 5½ : 6) inches, ending at the front edge.

Shape Neck:
Cast off 9 sts at the beginning of the next row; 3 stitches on the following alternate row; and 2 stitches on the following 4 alternate rows.
Continue straight until armhole matches back to shoulder, ending at the armhole edge.

Shape Shoulder:
Cast off 8 (8 : 10 : 11: 13) stitches at the beginning of the next row, and 8 stitches on the following 2 alternate rows.
Work 1 row.
Cast off remaining 7 stitches.

The Left Front

With No 9 needles cast on 58 (61 : 64 : 67 : 70) stitches.
1st row: (P2, kb1) to last stitch, k1.
2nd row: K1, (pbl, k2) to end.

Repeat the last 2 rows 3 times more, then 1st row once, increasing 1st at the beginning of the last row on the lst, 3rd, and 5th sizes.

Increase row: Rib 8 stitches, and leave these 8 stitches on a safety-pin to work the left front band later.
Continue the row: k2; (p1, k1, then p1, k1 in next st) twice; repeat from * to * as increase row on back; kfb; knit to end.
[60 (62 : 66 : 68 : 72) stitches]

Change to No 7 needles and pattern thus:

1st row: (Kb1, p1) 5 (6 : 8 : 9 : 11) times; repeat from * to * as 1st row of back, then p10.
2nd row: K1, (work k1, p1, k1 into next st., p3tog) twice, k1; repeat from * to * as 2nd row of back; knit to end.

Continue in pattern as now set, and complete to match right front, reversing shapings and the position of the pocket.

The Sleeves

With No 9 needles cast on 44 (44 : 50 : 50 : 50) sts.
Work 9 rows in rib as for the back welt, omitting the increases on the last row.

Increase row: ** (k2, kfb) once (once : twice : twice : twice),
k2 **; repeat from * to * as for the increase row on the back; then repeat from ** to **. [52 (52 : 60 : 60 : 60) sts]

Change to No 7 needles and pattern as follows:

1st row: (Kb1, p1) 3 (3 : 5 : 5 : 5) times; repeat from * to * as for the 1st row of the back; (p1, kb1) to end.
2nd row: K6 (6 : 10 : 10) ; repeat from * to * as for the 2nd row of the back; knit to end.

Continue in pattern as now set, increasing 1 stitch at both ends of following 5th row and every following 5th (5th : 6th : 6th : 5th) row until you have 80 (80 : 86 : 86 : 92) stitches, working the increased stitches into the pattern as end panels.

Continue straight until work measures 17 (17 : 18 : 18 : 18) inches. For 1st, 2nd, and 3rd sizes, end with wrong side facing, and for 4th and 5th sizes end with right side facing to begin the next row.

Mark the ends of the last row (with a piece of coloured thread or a stitch marker).

Shape Top:
Cast off 3 (4: 4: 5: 6) stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows;
4 (4 : 5 : 4 : 4) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows;
and then 8 stitches at the beginning of the following 4 rows.
Cast off.

The Pocket Tops

With right side facing, slip the 40 stitches on the stitch holder for the left front pocket on to No 9 needles.

1st row: K1, (k2tog tbl, p2) twice; (kb1, p2) 8 times; k2tog tbl, p2, k2tog tbl, k1. [36 sts]

2nd row: K1, pb1, (k2, pb1) to last stitch, k1.
3rd row: K1 (kb1, p2) to last 2 stitches, kb1, k1.
Repeat last 2 rows once more.
Cast off in rib.

Repeat the process for the stitches on the stitch holder for the right front pocket.

The Front Bands

With wrong side facing, slip the 8 stitches of left front on the safety-pin back on to on to No 9 needles.

Work in rib as set, increasing 1 stitch at the end of the 1st row. [9 sts]. Continue in rib until band will fit front edge.

[Editor's note: I have found it difficult to judge the fit of front bands knitted in this way. My method now is that when I have knitted about the right length, I test the length against the main body by laying the work flat and totally relaxed with the front band laid in position up the front. When the front band is about ½ to 1 inch shorter than the main body it fits nicely into position very slightly stretched.]

Leave the stitches on a spare needle.
Mark the band with pins to indicate position of buttons; the first one should be 4 rows up from the beginning and then position 5 more evenly spaced between, allowing that top one will be in the neckband.

With wrong side facing, slip 8 stitches of right front on the safety-pin back on to on to No 9 needles.
Increase in 1st stitch, and rib to end. [9 sts]
Complete to match left front band, working buttonholes at pin positions thus:
1st row: Rib 3, cast off 3, rib to end.
2nd row: Rib 3, cast on 3, rib 3.

The Neck Band

Join shoulder seams.

With No 9 needles and right side facing, rib across the 9sts of the right band, pick up and knit 29 sts up right front neck, 37 sts round back neck, 29 sts down left front neck, and finally rib across 9sts of left front band.

Work 6 rows in rib matching in with the bands, making the last (top) buttonhole on the 4th and 5th rows.
Cast off in rib.

To Make Up

Join side seams.
Sew in sleeves, sewing the rows above the markers to the cast off groups at the armholes.
Join sleeve seams.
Sew down pocket linings, and sides of pocket tops.
Sew on front bands and buttons.

Materials

9 (10 : 10 : 11: 11)
100g skeins Rowan Magpie Aran.

A pair each of Nos
7 (4½mm) and 9 (3¾mm) needles, and
2 cable needles.

7 buttons.
(I used wonderful smooth shiny leather buttons that look like conkers).

Tension

20sts to 4 ins in double moss stitch.

Size matters

The pattern is given in 5 sizes to fit chest:
32 (34 : 36: 38: 40) ins; length: 27 (27 : 27½: 27½: 28½) ins;
and sleeve seam:
17 (17 : 18 : 18 : 18) ins.

Abbreviations

Increase: increase by knitting into front and back of the next stitch.
k2tog: (decrease) knit 2 sts together.
p2tog: (decrease) purl 2 sts together.
kfb or pfb: knit or purl into front and back of stitch.
kb or pb: knit or purl into back of stitch.
tbl: through back loop
sl: slip

c6L: cross 6 left thus:
slip next 2sts on to cable needle, leave at front, slip next 2sts on to cable needle and leave at back, k2, then p2 from cable needle at back, k2 from cable needle at front.

c6R: cross 6 right thus: slip next 4sts on to cable needle, leave at back, k2, then pass 2 purl sts back on to left-hand needle, purl these 2sts, then k2 from cable needle.

cp7: claw pattern 7 thus: slip next 2sts on to cable needle, leave at back, k1, then k2 from cable needle, knit next st, slip next st on to cable needle, leave at front, k2, then knit st from cable needle.

A word on the wool.

The original cardigan was knitted in a vintage Bainin yarn.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Afterthought Pockets

You can see two things from the photograph of my cardigan. One is - the sleeves look disproportionately short - what can I say? I have very short arms so knitted them shorter to fit me.

The second thing is that there are no visible pockets. The reason is that my yarn was restricted, so when I started the knitting, I always planned to add the pockets later if I had sufficient yarn left at the end.

It is very easy to add afterthought pockets, and sometimes - especially if making your own design - it allows you to judge their position a little better.

You decide where you want your pocket tops to begin, and mark the centre. Thread a lifeline (use a blunt needle and nylon or smooth mercerised cotton thread) through the stitches to either side of the marker as big as the pocket will be (in our case, 40 stitches).

[Editor's note: I know - this can be hard when you have a complicated cable pattern - all I can say is, try and choose one of the wrong side rows where you were not executing the cables - this is good advice from the point of view of the picking up of the stitches, as well as stylistically where you want the pocket to be positioned.]

On the row above the marker for the centre point (and above your lifeline) cut a stitch and unthread the sts to either side of the marker for 20 sts each side. You will have 2 loose ends that you darn in on the wrong side at the end.

Pick up the loose sts above the row you have undone - this will normally yield 41 or 39 sts. Transfer the sts to working needles and knit downwards to make the pocket lining which you then push to the inside and sew down.

Pick up the 40 live sts from your lifeline and knit up to make the pocket tops. (Pull out the lifeline).

If you are short of yarn, you can always make the pocket linings out of any other yarn you have as they do not show - though it's best to choose a toning colour, otherwise it looks very amateurish if the inside of your elegant grey cashmere cardigan is revealed to show red bri-nylon square patches.

Instructions.

The main part of the hat is a simple six-row pattern where you increase at the beginning and decrease at the end of every alternate row to create the diagonal effect. At the same time you alternate 3-row bands of stocking stitch and reverse sticking stitch.

Side

Cast on 20sts.
[Editor's note: I cast on in waste wool, and when I had completed the 12 patterns (see below) I grafted the sts together instead of seaming.]

1st row: Knit
2nd row: P2tog, purl to the last stitch, purl twice in the last stitch.
3rd row: Knit
4th row: K2tog, knit to the last stitch, knit twice in the last stitch.
5th row: Purl
6th row: K2tog, knit to the last stitch, knit twice in the last stitch.

These 6 rows form the pattern.
Continue until 12 complete patterns have been worked from the start. Cast off.
[Editor's note: I did not cast off but grafted the sts to the cast on row by removing the waste wool and unpicking my first knit row, using this yarn tail to graft. This makes a perfect join.]

Brim

With right side facing, pick up and knit 72sts along one edge of the side piece - that is 3 sts to each knit and purl stripe.
[Editor's note: As I had already seamed the side piece into a tube shape, I used a circular needle to pick up the 72sts and knit the brim.]

Work 10 rows in k1/p1 rib, and then cast off in rib.

Join side piece and brim neatly with a flat seam.
[Editor's note: If you have not already grafted the side together.....]

Press seam lightly.

Crown

Cast on 14sts, and work in stocking stitch, starting with a purl row (this is right side of work), and increasing at each end of the first and every alternate row until there are 28 sts.

Knit one row.

Then continue, decreasing at each end of next and every following alternate row until 14sts remain.

Cast off.

To Make Up

Pin crown in position to side of hat on wrong side, so that purl side of crown is on the outside. Back stitch in position very neatly on wrong side with a tailored seam
Press seam lightly on the right side using a damp cloth.

Fold ribbed brim in half to wrong side and slip stitch in position round lower edge.

Place on head.
Admire.

Wrap in Christmas paper. Put under tree.

Materials

Original materials called for: 2 (2 oz) hanks Patons Big Ben Knitting in white.
Sample shown uses some handspun yarn.

A pair of No 2 (7mm) needles.

Tension

12 sts to 4 inches.

Size matters

To fit an average sized head.

Abbreviations

Increase: increase by knitting into front and back of the next stitch.
k2tog: (decrease) knit 2 sts together.
p2tog: (decrease) purl 2 sts together.

A word on the wool.

Big Ben was quite a novelty bulky wool in its time. There were no substitutes short of knitting several strands of thinner yarn together to make the right tension (as I did with my handspun).
These days we have a number of bulky wools to try; the hat is fairly forgiving as the knit and purl stripes are stretchy like ribbing.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Handspun Yarn

I bought some Spelsau fleece at Woolfest in 2009; there was a workshop on knitting direct from the fleece but I intended to spin my sample. I made a 2 ply yarn which was softer than I had expected, but kempy (as I had not attempted to remove the coarser fibres). There was only a small amount - I did not measure the yardage, but I started with 100g, the yarn was chunky weight, and I knitted 2 strands of yarn together by combining it with an aran-weight handspun merino/silk blend to achive the bulky weight required. As you can see, the fleece was a lovely combination of natural grey tones.
The 100g sample was sufficient to knit the side and brim of the hat, but not the crown - I spun some of the coarser fibre from my Leicester Longwool fleece and combined that with the merino/silk as before to get the right yarn weight and drape, (quite a firm knitted fabric).

The description of the Spelsau fleece is as follows (taken from the reference above):

The Spaelsau is a direct ancestor to the Old Norwegian Sheep.They were tough sheep supplying their masters with meat, milk, wool, skin - even the sails that carried the ships over the oceans were made of their wool. Today, a thousand years later, the wool of the Spaelsau still consists of a rough cover to protect against the wind and the rain, and under this a much softer layer close to the skin as protection against the cold.
The rocky Norwegian west coast is Spaelsau country. On a few isolated isles among the skerries off the coast you still find Old Norwegian Sheep living wild.

Instructions

These are the instructions as they appear in the original pattern. They are untested with modern yarn and needles.

Front

With No 12 needles and main shade (G) cast on cast on 108 stitches and work 4½ inches in Knit 2, Purl 2 rib, increasing at the end of the last row. Change to No. 10 needles, and work 2 rows stocking stitch; then, still in stocking stitch, change to coloured pattern as follows:

1st row (right side facing): Knit 8 in main shade (G), * 3 in black (B), 13G, 1 in red (R), 13G, repeat from * to last 11 stitches, 3B, 8G.
2nd row: Purl 9G, * 1B, 14G, 1R, 14G, repeat from * to last 10 stitches, 1B, 9G.
3rd row: Knit 9G, * 1B, 13G, 3R, 13G, repeat from * to last 10 stitches, 1B, 9G.
4th row: Purl 6G, * 2B, 1G, 1B, 1G, 2B, 10G, 3R, 10G, repeat from * to last 13 stitches, 2B, 1G, 1B, 1G, 2B, 6G.
5th row: Knit 5G, * 3B, 1G, 1B, 1G, 3B, 8G, 5R, 8G, repeat from * to last 14 stitches, 3B, 1G, 1B, 1G, 3B, 5G.
6th row: Purl 5G, * 9 B, 8G, 5R, 8G, repeat from * to last 14 stitches, 9B, 5G.
7th row: Knit 5G, * 9B, 7G, 7R, 7G, repeat from * to last 14 stitches, 9B, 5G.
8th row: Purl 6G, * 7B, 7G, 9R, 7G, repeat from * to last 13 stitches, 7B, 6G.
9th row: Knit 6G, * 7B, 6G, 11R, 6G, repeat from * to last 13 stitches, 7B, 6G.
10th row: Purl 7G, * 5B, 7G, 11R, 7G, repeat from * to last 12 stitches, 5B, 7G.
11th row: Knit 7G, * 5B, 7G, 11R, 7G, repeat from * to last 12 stitches, 5B, 7G.
12th row: W: Purl 8G, * 3B, 8G, 4R, 3G, 4R, 8G, repeat from * to last 11 stitches, 3B, 8G.
13th row: Knit 8G, * 3B, 9G, 2R, 5G, 2R, 9G, repeat from * to last 11 stitches, 3B, 8G.
14th row: Purl 9G, * 1B, 29G, repeat from * to last 10 stitches, 1B, 9G.

15th-20th rows: Work in stocking stitch in main shade only.

21st row: Increase in first stitch; knit 8G, * 1R, 13G, 3B, 13G, repeat from * to last 10 stitches, 1R, 8G, increase in last stitch.
22nd row: Purl 10G, * 1R, 14G, 1B, 14G, repeat from * to last 11 stitches, 1R, 10G.
23rd row: Knit 9G, * 3R,13G, 1B, 13G, repeat from * to last 12 stitches, 3R, 9G.
24th row: Purl 9G, * 3R, 9G, 2B, 2G, 1B, 2G, 2B, 9G, repeat from * to last 12 stitches, 3R, 9G.
25th row: Knit 8G, * 5R, 7G, 4B, 1G, 1B, 1G, 4B, 7G, repeat from * to last 13 stitches, 5R, 8G.
26th row: Purl 7G, * 7R, 6G, 11B, 6G, repeat from * to last 14 stitches, 7R, 7G.
27th row: Knit 6G, * 9R, 5G, 11B, 5G, repeat from * to last 15 stitches, 9R, 6G.
28th row: Purl 6G, * 9R, 5G, 4B, 1G, 1B, 1G, 4B, 5G, repeat from * to last 15 stitches, 9R, 6G.
29th row: Increase in first stitch; knit 6G, * 7R, 7G, 2B, 1G, 3B, 1G, 2B, 7G, repeat from * to last 14 stitches, 7R, 6G, increase in the last stitch.
30th row: Purl 9G, * 5R, 10G, 5B, 10G, repeat from * to last 14 stitches, 5R, 9 G.
31st row: Knit 10G, * 3R, 10G, 7B, 10G, repeat from * to last 13 stitches, 3R, 10 G.
32nd row: Purl 10G, * 3R, 10G, 1B, 10G, repeat from * to last 13 stitches, 3R, 10G.
33rd row: Knit 11G, * 1R, 12G, 5B, 12G, repeat from * to last 12 stitches, 1R, 11G.
34th row: Purl 11G, * 1R, 13G, 3B, 13G, repeat from * to last 12 stitches, 1R, 11G.
35th-40th rows: Work in stocking-stitch in G only, increasing at each end of the 37th row [115 stitches].

These 40 rows form the pattern.
The chart shows the 40 rows written out above.

Continue in pattern, increasing at each end of every 6th row, until there are 125 stitches on the needle, and the 32nd row of the second pattern has been worked.

Shape armhole as follows:

Continuing in pattern, cast off 5 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then decrease at each end of the next 5 rows (105 stitches).
Continue in pattern without shaping until 3rd pattern is completed.

Shape neck as follows:

1st row: Knit 6G, 3B, 13G, 1R, 59G, 1R, 13G, 3B, 6G.
2nd row: Purl 7G, 1B, 14G, 1R, 59G, 1R, 14G, 1B, 7G.
3rd row: Knit 7G, 1B, 13G, 3R, 18G, (slip these stitches on to spare needle); cast off 21; knit 18G, 3R, 13G, 1B, 7G.

Working on these last 42 stitches:-

4th row: Purl 4G, 2B, 1G, 1B, 1G, 2B, 10G, 3R, 18G.

Continue in pattern, decreasing at neck edge on next and every alternate row until 36 stitches remain and the 15th pattern row has been worked.

Shape shoulder as follows:

1st row (wrong side facing): Cast off 10 stitches at armhole edge, purl to end.
2nd row: K2tog, knit to end.

Repeat these last 2 rows once. Cast off.
Return to stitches on the spare needle; join main shade wool at centre and work left shoulder to match right, shaping at opposite edges.

Back

Work as for the front until 3rd pattern is completed, then
divide for back opening as follows:

Next row: Knit 6G, 3B, 13G, 1R, 13G, 3B, 14G, turn.

Work on these 53 stitches for the right shoulder (slip remaining stitches on to a spare needle or stitch holder).
Continue in pattern, omitting centre heart near back opening and keeping these stitches in main shade, until 4th row of 4th pattern has been worked.

Shape shoulder as follows: cast off 11 stitches at armhole edge on the next 3 alternate rows.

Cast off remaining 20 stitches.

Return to stitches left on spare needle or stitch holder. Join main shade wool at centre, cast on 4 stitches for under-lap and work to match the right shoulder, shaping at opposite edges.

Sleeves

With No 12 needles and main shade wool, cast on 73 stitches.
Work in stocking stitch for 19 rows (starting with a purl row). Change to No 10 needles and work in pattern as follows:-

1st row: Knit 6G, * 1R, 13G, 3B, 13G, repeat from * once, 1R, 6G.
2nd row: Purl 6G, * 1R, 14G, 1B, 14G, repeat from * once, 1R, 6G.
3rd row: Knit 5G, * 3R, 13G, 1B, 13G, repeat from * once, 3R, 5G.
4th row: Purl 5G, * 3R, 10G, 2B, 1G, 1B, 1G, 2B, 10G, repeat from * once, 3R, 5G.
5th row: Increase in the first stitch; knit 3G, * 5R, 8G, 3B, 1G, 1B, 1 G, 3B, 8G, repeat from * once, 5R, 3G; increase in the last stitch.
6th row: Purl 5G, * 5R, 8G, 9B, 8G, repeat from * once, 5R, 5G.
7th row: Knit 4G, * 7R, 7G, 9B, 7G, repeat from * once, 7R, 4G.
8th row: Purl 3G, * 9R, 7G, 7B, 7G, repeat from * once, 9R, 3G.
9th row: Increase in the first stitch; knit 1G, * 11R, 6G, 7B, 6G, repeat from * once, 11R, 1G; increase in the last stitch.
10th row: Purl 3G, * 11R, 7G, 5B, 7G, repeat from * once, 11R, 3G.
11th row: Knit 3G, * 11R, 7G, 5B, 7G, repeat from * once, 11R, 3G.
12th row: Purl 3G, * 4R, 3G, 4R, 8G, 3B, 8G, repeat from * once, 4R, 3G, 4R, 3G.
13th row: Increase in the first stitch; knit 3G, * 2R, 5G, 2R, 9G, 3B, 9G, repeat from * once, 2R, 5G, 2R, 3G; increase in the last stitch.
14th row: Purl 24G, 1B, 29G, 1B, 24G.
15th-20th rows: Work in stocking stitch in main colour G, increasing at each end of the 17th row.
21st row: Increase in the first stitch; knit 8G, * 3B, 13G, 1R, 13G, repeat from * once, 3B, 8G; increase in the last stitch.
22nd row: Purl 11G, * 1B, 14G, 1R, 14G, repeat from * once, 1B, 11G.
23rd row: Knit 11G, * 1B, 13G, 3R, 13G, repeat from * once, 1B, 11G.
24th row: Purl 7G, * 2B, 2G, 1B, 2G, 2B, 9G, 3R, 9G, repeat from * once, 2B, 2G, 1B, 2G, 2B, 7G.
25th row: Increase in the first stitch; knit 5G, * 4B, 1G, 1B, 1G, 4B, 7G, 5R, 7G, repeat from * once, 4B, 1G, 1B, 1G, 4B, 5G; increase in the last stitch.
26th row: Purl 7G, * 11B, 6G, 7R, 6G, repeat from * once, 11B, 7G.
27th row: Knit 7G, * 11B, 5G, 9R, 5G, repeat from * once, 11B, 7G.
28th row: Purl 7G, * 4B, 1G, 1B, 1G, 4B, 5G, 9R, 5G, repeat from * once, 4B, 1G, 1B, 1G, 4B, 7G.
29th row: Increase in the first stitch, Knit 7G, * 2B, 1G, 3B, 1G, 2B, 7G, 7R, 7G, repeat from * once, 2B, 1G, 3B, 1G, 2B, 7G; increase in the last stitch.
30th row: Purl 11G, * 5B, 10G, 5R, 10G, repeat from * once, 5B, 11G.
31st row: Knit 10G, * 7B, 10G, 3R, 10G, repeat from * once, 7B, 10G.
32nd row: Purl 10G, * 7B, 10G, 3R, 10G, repeat from * once, 7B, 10G.
33rd row: Increase in the first stitch; knit 10G, * 5B, 12G, 1R, 12G, repeat from * once, 5B, 10G; increase in the last stitch.
34th row: Purl 13G, * 3B, 13G, 1R, 13G, repeat from * once, 3B, 13 G.
35th and 36th rows: Work in stocking stitch in G [89 stitches].

Now shape top: work 4 rows in G stocking stitch, casting off 2 sts at the beginning of the first 2 rows, then decreasing at each end of the next 2 rows.
This completes one pattern. Repeat again from 1st row, being careful to place each "pip" directly over the one below (as shown in the chart), and at the same time shaping as follows:-

Work 2 rows straight, then decrease at the beginning of the next 4 rows. * Work 2 rows straight, then decrease at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Repeat from * once.
Work 16 rows straight, then decrease at each end of the next 2 alternate rows (69 stitches).
Work 2 rows straight; decrease at each end of the next row. Now decrease at each end of every following 4th row, but when commencing the 3rd pattern, omit the heart at either end and keep stitches in main shade; continue until 16th row has been worked (59 stitches). Continue in G stocking stitch, decreasing at each end of every alternate row until 49 stitches remain.
Next row: k2tog all along, ending k1.
Cast off.

Roll for neck and Sleeves

With No. 12 needles cast on 7 stitches in R and 7 stitches in B.
1st row: (p6, k1) in B, twist the threads, (k1, p6) in R.
2nd row: (k6, p1) R, twist the threads, (p1, k6) B.

Repeat these 2 rows until roll is required length. Cast off.

To Make Up

Press all parts except ribbing on the wrong side under a damp cloth.
Join side, shoulder, and sleeve seams. Set in sleeves, arranging fullness at shoulder. Sew stocking-stitch roll about 2 rows in from neck and sleeve edges, sewing along centre of roll, leaving the edges to roll under. Press all seams on wrong side.

Make three crochet buttons thus:
Make 3 chain, join in a ring, work 6 dc into ring. Work 2 dc in each stitch of last row, work 2 rows without shaping. Work 1 dc in every alternate stitch of last row. Stuff button with wool. Fasten off. Work 1 row of dc round back opening, making three loop buttonholes on right side of opening. Sew the buttons in position. Sew press-stud at extreme top of opening.

Materials

Original materials called for: 12ozs Patons Super Bouclet.
[8ozs green (main colour) and 2 ozs each in black and red.]

A pair each Nos 10 and 12 (3¼mm and 2¾mm) needles.

A press-stud.

Editor's note: The closure for the back opening uses 3 buttons and loops that are self-made using crochet, so you will need an equivalent size crochet hook for finishing.

Tension

28sts to 4 inches on No 10 needles.

Size matters

To fit 33-35 inch bust; length from top of shoulder: 20 inches; sleeve seam: 6 inches.

Abbreviations

increase: by knitting into the front and back of the next stitch.

k2tog: decrease by knitting 2 sts together.

dc: double crochet - known as single crochet in the US.

A word on the wool.

The tension and needle size for this pattern imply a standard 4 ply yarn would work. Given that bouclé yarn tends to work up fairly firmly, it might be possible to substitute a double knitting yarn to make a larger size.

Editor's note: My experience of these vintage patterns leads me to suggest that you may need far more yarn than the quantities indicate. In some cases I have needed one 50g ball (which is actually 1¾ozs) to replace each 1oz ball.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions.

Starting at top with the cuff, using the main colour, cast on 64 stitches on three needles (21,22, 21).
[Editor's note: I recommend using one size larger needles than you use for the plain portion of the sock, as Fair Isle technique tends to pull the tension a little tighter.]
Join in a circle, being careful not to twist the stitches, and knit 2 rounds.
[Editor's note: To avoid the cuff curling up so much, I actually did one row purl then one row knit.]
Then work in the cuff pattern as follows (there is a chart at the end of the section):

3rd Round: * k1 contrast (C), k1 main (M); repeat from * to end of round.
4th Round: * k1 M, k1C; repeat from * to end of round.
5th and 6th Round: knit all round in M.
7th Round: * k1C, k2M, k2C, k2M, k3C, k2M, k2C, k2M; repeat from * to end of round.
8th Round: k2C, * k2M, k2C, k2M, k1C, k2M, k2C, k2M, k3C; repeat from * all round, ending k1C.
9th Round: * k1M, k2C, k2M, k2C, k3M, k2C, k2M, k2C; repeat from * to end of round.
10th Round: k2M, *k2C, k2M, k2C, k1M, k2C, k2M, k2C, k3M; repeat from * all round, ending k1M.
11th - 14th Rounds: Repeat 7th to 10th rounds.
15th Round: * k1C, k2M, k2C, k7M, k2C, k2M; repeat from * to end of round.
16th Round: as 8th round.
17th Round: * k1M, k2C, k4M, k3C, k4M, k2C; repeat from * to end of round.
18th Round: as10th round.
19th Round: * k1C, k4M, k2C, k3M, k2C, k4M; repeat from * to end of round.
20th Round: as 8th round.
21st Round: as 7th round.
22nd and 23rd Rounds: knit all round in M.
24th and 25th Rounds: repeat 3rd and 4th rounds.
26th and 27th Rounds: knit all round in M.

This completes the cuff.

Break colour C and continue in main colour only.
[Editor's note: Change to smaller needles here.]

Turn the work inside out to make a fold-over cuff and start to work the rounds in the opposite direction.

Work in k2, p2 rib for 3 inches [Editor's note: about 30 rows.], decreasing 8 stitches in the last round only, by knitting together every 7th and 8th stitch.

Next Round: k2tog, knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [54 stitches]

Now work in stocking-stitch (knit every round) for 2 inches.
[Editor's note: about 20 rows.]

Heel

Knit 13 stitches of first needle on to third needle (this is the heel needle), then turn and purl back 26 stitches; divide the remaining 28 stitches equally onto the other two needles. Work back and forth over heel needles as follows:

1st Row: slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit across remaining stitches.
2nd Row: slip 1 stitch purlwise, purl across remaining stitches.
Repeat these last 2 rows alternately until piece measures 2 inches.
[Editor's note: I recommend knitting 26 rows.]

Next Row (right side facing): knit across first 16 stitches, k2tog; turn.

Next Row: p7, p2tog; turn.
Next Row: k7, k2tog; turn.
Repeat the last 2 rows alternately until 8 stitches remain on heel needle.

Next Round: needle 1: knit across heel needle, then pick up 14 stitches down left side of heel; needle 2: knit across next two, needles (thus transferring these stitches on to one needle); needle 3: pick up 14 stitches across other side of heel and k4, from needle 1.

Hereafter, work in rounds of stocking stitch but, on every other round, k2tog at end of first needle, and (s1, k1, psso) at beginning of third needle until 54 stitches remain.

Work straight until piece measures 2 inches less than that required for overall foot length.

[Editor's note: This was about 50 rows for my UK size 4 foot. (EU 37, US 6½.]

Toe

There should be 13 stitches on first needle, 28 on the second needle, and 13 on the third needle. End of round is centre of sole. Work 1 round, decreasing at each end of second needle, then one round straight.

Now there are 13 stitches on first needle, 26 on the second needle, and 13 on the third needle.

Next Round: knit to within 3 stitches of the end of the first needle, k2tog, k1; on second needle, k1, (s1, k1, psso), knit to within last 3 stitches, then k2tog, k1; on third needle, k1, (s1, k1, psso), knit to end of round.
Work 1 round straight.

Repeat the last 2 rounds until 16 stitches remain.
Transfer the stitches on to two needles, having 8 stitches on each needle and divided so that sole lies flat.

Graft the stitches together.

Making up

Sew in all ends. Fold down cuff.

Materials

3ozs Patons Real Shetland Wool.
[2 ozs main shade and 1oz contrasting shade. Original uses white and scarlet].

A set of four No 11 needles, pointed at both ends.

Tension

30 stitches = 4ins

Size matters

Length of foot, 9 inches (adjustable).

Abbreviations

M is main shade (white).
C is contrast (red).

psso: pass the slipped stitch over, (also known as "ssk"; effectively you are "knitting 2 together through back loops").

A Word
on the Wool.

The recommended wool was Patons Real Shetland Wool.

I used Cygnet Wool-Rich 4ply. I chose this yarn as it seemed fine enough to achieve the required tension. I worked mainly on No 12 needles (one size smaller than specified) using No 11s for the Fair Isle section. However I think a conventional 4 ply at 28sts to 4 inches would make a better fabric.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Front

With No 12 (2¾mm) needles and main shade cast on cast on 120 sts loosely and work 24 rows in stocking stitch, starting with a knit row.
[Editor's note: To aid the fold of a hem, (which is what this is), a garter stitch row is sometimes inserted half way. So - you could knit 11 rows in stocking stitch, and then knit one row on the wrong side - then continue with the stocking stitch to 24 rows.]

Make a hem on the next row by knitting 1 stitch from needle together with 1 stitch from cast-on edge.
Purl back.

Change to No.11 needles and work 4 rows stocking stitch, then shape basque as follows:

Next row: k33, k2togtbl, k50, k2tog, k33
Work 5 rows straight.
Next row: k32, k2togtbl, k50, k2tog, k32
Work 5 rows straight.
Next row: k31, k2togtbl, k50, k2tog, k31
Work 5 rows straight.

Continue decreasing thus on next and every following 6th row until 108 sts. remain.
Work 5 rows straight.

Shape waist as follows:

Next row: *k8, k2tog; repeat from * to last 8 sts, k8
Next row: *p8, increase in the next st; repeat from * to last 8 sts, p8. [108 sts]

Begin working the check pattern, introducing the two contrast colours C1 and C2.
[Editor's note: In the original pattern they plunge straight in with the 2 by 2 check, but I think Sara has framed her panel by starting and ending with a row of C1 (green), which I think looks rather smart.]

1st row (right side facing): * k2 C1, k2 C2; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: * p2 C2, p2 C1; repeat from * to end.
3rd row: * k2 C2, k2 C1; repeat from * to end.
4th row: * p2 C1, p2 C2; repeat from * to end.

Continue in pattern repeating the 4 rows as set above, increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 6th row. Incorporate the extra sts keeping the chack pattern correct.

When work measures 10 inches at centre....
[Editor's note: The check panel is approximately 50 rows, depending on your own tension.]
....change back to main shade and continue in stocking stitch, still increasing at side edge as before until there are 130 sts.
Work straight until front measures 13 inches at centre.

With right side facing, cast on 10 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows for the sleeves, [150 sts].
Continue straight until sleeve measures 6 inches. With right side facing, shape shoulders and neck as follows:

Cast off 10, k50; turn and leave remaining sts on a stitch holder.

Now decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 10 rows; then, keep the neck edge straight, but at the same time cast off 5 sts on every alternate row at the armhole edge until all sts are gone.

Return to the remaining sts on the stitch holder; slip the centre 30 sts on to a stitch holder, and rejoin the wool to the remaining 60 sts.
Work to correspond with the first shoulder.

Back

Work as for the front to the end of the check pattern.

Work 2 rows in main shade, then divide for back opening.
Work on the first half of the stitches, leaving the remainder on a stitch holder.
Continue shaping side edge until there are 65 sts on needle, then work straight until side edge matches back to armhole.
With right side facing, cast on 10 sts at the beginning of the next row, then continue straight until sleeve measures 6 inches.
With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 10 sts at the beginning of the next row, then 5 sts on the following 8 alternate rows.

Cast off remaining stitches.

Rejoin the wool to the remaining stitches at the centre and work to correspond with the right half of the back.

To Make Up

Press work on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Join shoulder seams.

Neck: With right side facing, main shade, and No 12 needles, pick up and knit 90 sts all round the neck, including 30 sts from the stitch holder on the front.
Work 2½ inches stocking stitch, starting with a purl row.
Cast off very loosely using a bigger needle.
Fold neckband in half and catch down on wrong side; press.
[Editor's note: I have to say, I am not clear from these instructions whether you should work the neckband on 2 needles - hence the "starting with a purl row", or whether you are working on 4 needles, but in reverse stocking stitch - given that you are instructed to join (implies both) shoulder seams before you begin.
Sara's version uses conventional stocking stitch which matches the hem. If you work backwards and forewards on 2 needles, only join one shoulder seam, and join the second with the neckband when you have finished..]

Join side and under-arm seams; work 2 rows dc round each sleeve edge. Turn back 1 inch of sleeve to form a cuff and catch in position at shoulder and under-arm.

[Editor's note: Sara leaves the sleeves plain after this point - instructions below introduce additional trim.]
Make a chain to go round each sleeve edge, then work 1 row dc across this chain. Sew in position round sleeve just below crochet edgings.

Work 3 rows dc down left side of back opening, including neckband, then 3 rows down right side making 24 button loops in 3rd row.

Sew on buttons.
Press seams.

Materials

Original materials called for: 5 ozs Patons Beehive Fingering 3ply in main shade (lipstick red) and 1oz each of grey and white.

A pair each Nos 11 and 12 (3mm and 2¾mm) needles.

A No 12 (2¾mm) crochet hook.

24 small buttons.

Tension

8 sts and 10 rows to an inch.

Size matters

Original sized for bust 33-34 inch bust;
length from top of shoulders: 20½ ins.

See "adapting the size".

Abbreviations

k2tog: decrease by knitting 2 sts together.

k2togtbl: decrease by knitting 2 sts together through back loops, sometime called ssk (slip 1 knitwise, slip 1 knitwise, place 2 sts back on left needle and knit 2 slipped sts together through back loops)

Crochet abbreviations:

ch = chain
dc = double crochet

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

A word on the wool.

Sara used Posh Yarn Diana 2 ply - about 600 yards for the main colour, and about 90 yards for the green contrast. For the white she used Capricorn Yarns brushed mohair 4 ply.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Adapting the size:

As with many of these 50s patterns, only one size is given: 33-34 inch bust. The sweater is designed to fit snugly, but probably will not fit most of us.

It is designed to be knitted in 3 ply at about 30 sts to 4 inches. You can gain some leeway by changing the yarn - this is a simple shape so it should cope with that - you should check the length you want and adjust the inches you knit accordingly.

Sara cleverly converted the pattern to a top down knit on the fly, and this would be ideal to try that that if you are bold enough.

Instructions.

This pattern is given for 2 size options - the instructions for the larger size are blue bold type in curly brackets.

Back

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles cast on cast on cast on 55{61} sts and work rib as follows:
1st rib row: K2; *p1, k1; repeat from * to last st, k1.
2nd rib row: *K1, p1; repeat from * to last st, k1.
Repeat these 2 rows 4 times, then 1st row once.

12th rib row: Rib 3{6}, (increase in next st, rib 6) 7 times, increase in next st, rib to end. [63{69}sts]

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and proceed in cable pattern as follows:

1st row (right side facing): K9{10}; p1, k4, p1; k11{13}; (p1, k4, ) twice, p1; k11{13}; p1, k4, p1; k9{10}.
2nd row: K1, purl to the last st, k1.
3rd row: K9{10}; p1, C2F, p1; k11{13}; p1, C2F, p1; p1, C2B, p1; k11{13}; p1, C2B, p1; k9{10}.
4th row: as second row.
5th row: as first row.
6th row: as second row.
These 6 rows form the pattern.

Continue in pattern until you have completed row 28{32}.

Shape raglan: (keep continuity of pattern as you work these rows).

[Editor's note: you should be about to begin Row 5 of the pattern sequence for the smaller size and Row 3 (a cable row) for the larger size.]

Next row: Cast off 3sts, work to end.
Next row: Cast off 3sts, work to end.
Next row: K1, s1, k1, psso, work to last 3sts, k2tog, k1.
Next row: K1, purl to the last st, k1.

Repeat last 2 rows 18{20} times, [19{21}sts]
Cast off.

Front

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles cast on cast on cast on 55{61} sts and work rib for the first 11 rows as you did for the back.

12th rib row: Rib 3{6}, (increase in next st, rib 7) 6 times, increase in next st, rib to end. [62{68}sts]

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and proceed as follows:

1st row (right side facing): K9{10}; p1, k4, p1; k8{9}; (p1, k1, ) 8{9} times; k1.

Turn and continue working on these 40{44}sts to make the left front (these instructions are intended for a boy - see editors note below) and slip remaining 22{24} sts on to a stitch holder and leave to work later.

[Editor's note: If you want to make this for a girl - maybe in white? - then you will perhaps want to reverse these instructions by working the first 22{24} sts, casting on 20sts and working on these 40{44} sts as written, omitting the button holes. Pick up the rest of the sts to work the right front - and don't forget to work the buttonholes on the right front!]

2nd row: (K1, p1) 9{10} times; purl to the last st, k1.

[Editor's note: The centre panel on each of the front pieces is worked in double moss stitch, and I found it convenient to put a stitch marker after I had worked the first 18{20} sts of row 2, to show the limit of this section.]

3rd row: K9{10}; p1, C2B, p1; k7{8}; * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.
4th row: K2, (p1, k1) 8{9} times; purl to the last st, k1.
5th row (on which buttonholes are worked): K9{10}; p1, k4, p1; k8{9}; p2tog, yrn, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last 3 sts; yfwd, k2tog, k1.
6th row: as second row.
7th row: K9{10}; p1, k4, p1; k7{8}; * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.
8th row: as 4th row.
9th row: K9{10}; p1, C2B, p1; k8{9}; * p1, k1; repeat from * to last st, k1.
10th row: as second row.
11th row: as 7th row.
12th row: as 4th row.

Keeping cable and moss stitch panel correct throughout, work 16{20} rows, working buttonholes as before on the 9th of these rows (row 21 for both sizes).

Shape raglan: (keep continuity of pattern across the cables and the centre moss stitch panel as you work these rows).

Next row: Cast off 3sts, work to end.
Next row: Work across in pattern to the last st, k1.
Next row: K1, s1, k1, psso, work to end.
Next row: Work across in pattern to the last st, k1.

Repeat last 2 rows 10{11} times, [26{29}sts]
Next row: K1, s1, k1, psso, work to end.
Next row: Cast off 5sts, work across in pattern to the last st, k1.
Next row: K1, s1, k1, psso, work to end, and cast on 5 sts.
[Editor's note: This creates the jacket-style revere].

** Keeping continuity of the pattern, continue to decrease at the armhole edge as before until 18{20} sts remain of the moss stitch panel.
Work a further 16{18} rows straight in moss stitch as set.
Cast off.

Completing the other side to make the right front:

Slip the sts from the stitch holder on to a No 10 needle, point facing centre of work (right side facing you), and cast on 18{20}sts. [40{44}sts].
Change to No 8 needles and proceed as follows:

1st row (right side facing): K2; (p1, k1) 8{9} times; k7{8}; p1, k4, p1; k9{10}.
2nd row: K1, purl to the last 18{20} sts; (p1, k1) 9{10} times.
3rd row: (K1, p1 ) 9{10} times; k7{8}; p1, C2F, p1; k9{10}.
4th row: K1, purl to the last 18{20} sts; (k1, p1) 8{9} times; k2.
5th row: as first row.
6th row: as second row.
7th row: (K1, p1 ) 9{10} times; k7{8}; p1, k4, p1; k9{10}.
8th row: as 4th row.
9th row: K2; (p1, k1) 8{9} times; k7{8}; p1, C2F, p1; k9{10}.
10th row: as second row.
11th row: as 7th row.
12th row: as 4th row.

Keeping cable and moss stitch correct throughout, work 17{21} more rows, thus finishing at side edge.

Shape raglan: (keep continuity of pattern across the cables and the centre moss stitch panel as you work these rows).

Next row (wrong side facing): Cast off 3sts, work to end.
Next row: Work across in pattern to the last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Next row: K1, work to end.

Repeat the last 2 rows 10{11} times, [26{29}sts]

Next row: Cast off 5sts, work across in pattern to the last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Next row: K1, work to end, cast on 5 sts.

Complete to match the left side of front, working from ** to end.

Right sleeve:

Using No 10 needles, cast on 32{34}sts. Work 13{15} rows in k1, p1 rib.

Next row: Rib 3{4}; (increase in next st, rib 4) 5 times; increase in next st, rib to end. [38{40}sts]

Change to No 8 needles and proceed in stocking stitch with cable panels set as follows:

1st row (right side facing): K3{3}; (p1, k4, p1, k7{8}) twice; p1, k4, p1; k3{3}.
2nd row: K1, purl to the last st, k1.
3rd row: K3{3}; (p1, C2B, p1, k7{8}) twice; p1, C2B, p1; k3{3}.
4th row: as second row.
5th row: as first row.
6th row: as second row.
These 6 rows form the pattern.

Continue in pattern as on last 6 rows, increasing 1 st at both ends of next and every following 6th row, until there are 50{54}sts; work the extra sts in stocking stitch.
Then work 3{7} rows straight before starting the raglan decreases.

Shape raglan by working rows as you did for the back:

Next row: Cast off 3sts, work to end.
Next row: Cast off 3sts, work to end.
Next row: K1, s1, k1, psso, work to last 3sts, k2tog, k1.
Next row: K1, purl to the last st, k1.

Repeat last 2 rows 18{20} times, [6{6}sts]
Cast off.

Right sleeve:

Work as for the right sleeve, but working C2F instead of C2B.

[Editor's note: The sleeves are identical apart from the way the cables twist, and obviously you can choose to sew them into the Reefer in whatever orientation you prefer.]

To Make Up

Block each piece from the wrong side, pressing very lightly using a warm iron and a damp cloth, omitting the ribbing.

Join side, raglan, and sleeve seams using a flat seam.
Stitch the collar into position across the sleeve tops and back of the neck, joining the 20 cast-off sts together at the centre back.

Stitch down the 20 cast-on stitches at the waist on the inside.
Attach buttons to match buttonholes.
Press seams lightly.

Materials

Original materials called for: 3{4} ozs Patons Quickerknit Baby (wool or bri-nylon).
Sample shown (larger size) used 4 x 50g balls Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino in navy blue.

A pair each Nos 8 and 10 (4mm and 3¼mm) needles.

Four gold coloured buttons (mine are inexpensive plastic buttons with anchor design).

Tension

24 sts and 32 rows to 4 inches on No 8 needles. You may need to use a smaller needle to get the right tension using the Baby Cashmerino.

Size matters

Chest 20{22} ins. Length, 9½{10½} ins. Sleeve seam, 6¾{7¾} ins.

Abbreviations

C2F: "cable 2 front". Slip 2sts on to a cable needle, leave at front of work, knit 2sts, then knit 2sts from cable needle.

C2B: "cable 2 back". Slip 2sts on to a cable needle, leave at back of work, knit 2sts, then knit 2sts from cable needle.

Increase: increase by knitting into front and back of the next stitch.

k2tog: (decrease) knit 2 sts together.

s1,k1,psso: (decrease) slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, or "ssk", slip, slip, knit.

yrn/yfwd: yarn round needle / yarn forward.
Makes an extra stitch which forms a buttonhole when knitted on the next row.

A word on the wool.

I believe "quicknit" wools evolved as a compromise yarn for baby designs. They were half way between traditional DK and 4 ply; Phildar marketed Pronostic (a synthetic) which was much used for their baby patterns, being hard wearing and practical.
These days there are many yarn weight variations without rigid adherence to specific tension schemes, and so light worsted weights are much more common than when this pattern first appeared.

Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino is one such yarn being of superb quality, highly practical, and knitting to this convenient gauge for baby knitwear.
I used the No 8 needles as specified in the pattern, and produced a fairly loose fabric; I think the yarn is better suited to No 9 or 10 needles (3¾ mm - 3¼ mm).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions.

Cables are worked as follows:

Cable 8: Slip next 4sts. onto a cable needle and leave at back of work; k4, then k4 from cable needle.
Cable 7: Slip next 4sts. onto a cable needle and leave at back of work; k3, then k4 from cable needle.
Cable 6: Slip next 3sts. onto a cable needle and leave at back of work; k3, then k3 from cable needle.
Cable 5: Slip next 3sts. onto a cable needle and leave at back of work; k2, then k3 from cable needle.
Cable 4: Slip next 2sts. onto a cable needle and leave at back of work; k2, then k2 from cable needle.
Cable 3: Slip next 2sts. onto a cable needle and leave at back of work; k1, then k2 from cable needle.

Now begin the yoke, which is worked in one piece.

Cast on 288 sts fairly loosely and work in cable pattern as follows:

1st row (right side facing): P4, * k8, p8; repeat from * to last 12 sts, k8, p4.
2nd row: K4, * p8, k8; repeat from * to last 12 sts, p8, k4.

Repeat the 1st and 2nd rows 3 times more.

9th row: P4, * cable8, p8; repeat from * to last 12 sts, cable8, p4.
10th row: as 2nd row.
11th row: as 1st row.
12th row (decrease row): K4, * p8, k3, k2tog, k3; repeat from * to last 12 sts, p8, k4. [271 sts]
13th row: P4, * k8, p7; repeat from * to last 12 sts, k8, p4.
14th row: K4, * p8, k7; repeat from * to last 12 sts, p8, k4.
15th and 16th rows: as 13th and 14th rows.
17th row: P4, * cable8, p7; repeat from * to last 12 sts, cable8, p4.
18th row (decrease row): K4, * p3, p2tog, p3, k7; repeat from * to last 12 sts, p3, k2tog, p3, k4. [253 sts]

Work 5 rows straight keeping the continuity of the cable rib pattern.

24th row (decrease row): K4, * p7, k3, k2tog, k2; repeat from * to last 11 sts, p7, k4. [236 sts]
25th row: P4, * cable7, p6; repeat from * to last 11 sts, cable7, p4.

Work 4 rows straight keeping the continuity of the cable rib pattern.

30th row (decrease row): K4, * p3, k2tog, p2, k6; repeat from * to last 11 sts, p3, p2tog, p2, k4. [218 sts]

Work 2 rows straight keeping the continuity of the cable rib pattern.

33rd row: P4, * cable6, p6; repeat from * to last 10 sts, cable6, p4.

Work a further 2 rows straight keeping pattern as before.

Continue thus, working a cable on every 8th row from previous cable, at the same time decreasing alternately in the knit and then in the purl panels, that is: decrease 1 stitch in each of the 15 knit panels on next row, then 1 stitch in each of the 17 purl panels on the following 6th row, omitting the 4 border stitches at each end.

Repeat these 2 decrease rows with 5 rows straight between each and always keeping continuity of cable rib pattern until you have worked 10 decrease rows in all, when 113 sts remain and 3 sts remain in each of the knit and purl panels with the 4 border stitches at each end.

Work a further 4 rows straight.

Next row: P4, * cable3; repeat from * to last 7 sts., cable 3, p. 4.

Work a further 5 rows straight in rib, then work another row cabling across the 3 knit stitches as before. Repeat last 6 rows until work measures 8 inches, then work a further 2 rows in rib.

Cast off.

To work the buttonholes:
With crochet hook, work 3 rows of double crochet down left side of opening, then 3 rows down right side, making 8 small button loops in 3rd row. Fasten off.

Optional fringing:
Cut 2 strands of wool each 3 inches long, fold in half and knot through every alternate stitch of cast-on edge. Now take last 2 strands from one knot together with first 2 from next knot and knot these 4 together to form trellis fringe as shown in photograph. Trim fringe evenly. Sew on buttons. Do not press cables but press crochet edging lightly.

To Make Up

Sew in all ends.
Do not press cables but press crochet edging lightly.
Sew on buttons.

Materials

Original materials called for: 2 ozs. Patons Beehive Fingering 3-ply. **

A pair of No 12 (2¾mm) needles.
[Editor's note: You can use a circular needle here but knit backwards and forwards.]
A cable needle.
A No 13 (2¼mm) crochet hook.
8 small buttons.

Tension

Original yarn knits 34sts x 42 rows to four inches over stocking stitch on No 12 needles.

Substitute yarn knits 27sts x 38 rows to four inches on 2½mm needles.

Size matters

One size. Depth: 8 inches, excluding fringe.

**A word on the wool.

I used a vintage Phildar yarn called Anouchka (80% acrylic 16%, mohair, 4% wool), in a bright red. It knits to a tension of 27sts x 38 rows on 2½mm needles, and I used No 13 (2¼mm) regardless of tension.

Crochet

Double crochet in the UK is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions.

The cable over 6 sts is worked as follows:

Cable: Slip next 3 sts. onto a cable needle to back of work; k3, then k3 from cable needle.

Back and front alike:

With No 11 (3mm) needles cast on 84 sts and work 3½ inches in k1, p1 rib. Change to No 10 (3¼ mm) needles and stocking-stitch, increasing 1 stitch at each end of 7th and every following 6th row until there are 102 sts.
Work straight until back measures 12 inches at centre.
With right side facing, shape armholes by decreasing 1 stitch at each end of next and every following knit row until 78 sts remain.
Purl back and leave stitches on a spare needle, or stitch holder.

Work a second identical piece for the front.

Sleeves (make 2):

You have the option of log or short sleeves - work one or other set of intructions.

Long sleeve: With No 11 needles cast on 48 sts and work 3 inches in k1, p1 rib. Change to No 10 needles and stocking-stitch, increasing 1 stitch at each end of 7th and every following 6th row until there are 76 sts.
Work straight until sleeve measures 17 inches.
With right side facing, shape top by decreasing 1 stitch at each end of next and every following knit row until 52 sts remain.
Purl back and leave stitches on spare needle, or stitch holder.

Short sleeve: With No 11 needles cast on 66 sts and work 1 inch in k1, p1 rib. Change to No 10 needles and stocking stitch, increasing 1 stitch at each end of 3rd and every following 4th row until there are 76 sts. Work straight until sleeve measures 4½ inches, then shape top as for long sleeve.

Yoke:

You should now have 2 identical pieces for the back and front, and two identical pieces for the sleeves, all on spare needles or stitch holders.

With right side facing and the set of No 10 needles.....
[Editor's note: The yoke is going to be pulled in by the cable pattern. Sara noticed that the yoke tends to ride up a little in her version, and this may be improved by increasing the needle size for the yoke section. Whatever needle size you chose for the main body, consider going up a size for the yoke.]
arrange stitches thus:-
place the 52 stitches of the left sleeve, and the first 40 stitches of the front on the first needle; the last 48 sts of the front and the 52 sts of the right sleeve on the second needle; and 78 stitches of the back onto the third needle. [260 sts].

[Editor's note: If you are using a circular needle, thread the stitches on in the order: sleeve, front, sleeve, back. Put a stitch marker to mark the beginning/end of the round, as front and back look the same. Also remember that the yoke decreases in size until it becomes the neck opening so you may wish to change between lengths of circular needle and finally move to 4 needles as the round becomes smaller.]

Work in rounds as follows:

1st round: K5, * k7, p2, k17; repeat from * ending last repeat k12 instead of k17.
2nd round: K5, * k6, p4, k16; repeat from * ending last repeat k11 instead of k16.
3rd round: K5, * k5, p6, k15; repeat from * ending last repeat k10.
4th round: K5, * k4, p8, k14; repeat from * ending last repeat k9.
5th round: K5, * k3, p10, k13; repeat from * ending last repeat k8.
6th round: K5, * k2, p12, k12; repeat from * ending last repeat k7.
7th round: K5, * k1, p14, k11; repeat from * ending last repeat k6.
8th round: K5, * p16, k10; repeat from * ending last repeat k5.
9th round: K4, * p18, k8; repeat from * ending last repeat k4.
10th round: K4, * p6, k6, p6, k8; repeat from * ending last repeat k4.
11th round: as 10th round.

12th round: K2tog, k2, * p6, cable, p6, k3, k2tog, k3; repeat from * to last 22sts, p6, cable, p6, k4. [250 sts]
13th round: K3, * p6, k6, p6, k7; repeat from * ending last repeat k4.
14th, 15th, 16th, and 17th rounds: As 13th round.

18th round: K3, * p6, cable, p6, k2, k2tog, k3; repeat from * to last 22sts, p6, cable, p6, k2, k2tog. [240 sts]
19th round: K3, * p6, k6, p6, k6; repeat from * ending last repeat k3.
20th, 21st, 22nd, and 23rd rounds: As 19th round.

24th round: K2tog, k1, * p6, cable, p6, k2, k2tog, k2; repeat from * to last 21sts, p6, cable, p6, k3. [230 sts]
25th round: K2, * p2tog, p4, k6, p4, p2togtbl, k5; repeat from * ending last repeat k3. [210 sts]
26th round: K2, * p5, k6, p5, k5; repeat from * ending last repeat k3.
27th, 28th, and 29th rounds: As 26th round.

30th round: K2, * p5, cable, p5, k2, k2tog, k1; repeat from * to last 19sts, p5, cable, p5, k1, k2tog. [200 sts]
31st round: K2, * p2tog, p3, k6, p3, p2togtbl, k4; repeat from * ending last repeat k2. [180sts]
32nd round: K2, * p4, k6, p4, k4; repeat from * ending last repeat k2.
33rd, 34th, and 35th rounds: As 32nd round.

36th round: K2tog, * p4, cable, p4, k1, k2tog, k1; repeat from * to last 16sts; p4, cable, p4, k2. [170sts]
37th round: K1, * p2tog, p2, k6, p2, p2togtbl, k3; repeat from * ending last repeat k2. [150 sts
38th round: K1, * p3, k6, p3, k3; repeat from * ending last repeat k2.
39th, 40th, and 41st rounds: As 38th round.

42nd round: K1, * p3, cable, p3, k2tog, k1; repeat from * to last 14 sts; p3, cable, p3, k2tog. [140 sts]
43rd round: K1, * p2tog, p1, k6, p1, p2togtbl, k2; repeat from * ending last repeat k1. [120 sts]
44th round: K1, * p2, k6, p2, k2; repeat from * ending last repeat k1.
45th, 46th, and 47th rounds: As 44th round.

48th round: P2tog, * p1, cable, p2, k2tog, p1; repeat from * to last 10sts, pl, cable, p2, k.l. [110 sts]
49th round: * P2tog, k6, p2, p2togtbl, k1; repeat from * to end. [90 sts]
50th round: * P1, k6, p1, k1; repeat from * to end.
51st, 52nd, and 53rd rounds: As 50th round.

Divide stitches onto No 11 needles, 45 across front and 45 across back. Work 7 rows k1, p1 rib across front of neck; cast off in rib. Work back of neck in the same way.

To Make Up

Press parts on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Join side and sleeve seams and right shoulder ribbing.
Sew 2 press-studs on left shoulder. Press seams.

Materials

Original materials called for: 14 ozs. for long sleeves, 11 ozs. for short sleeves of Patons Moorland Double Knitting**.

Example knitted in Twilleys Freedom Spirit DK - 8 x 50g balls - about 900m.

1 pair each of No 11 (3mm), and No 10 (3¼ mm) needles, and a set of 4 No 10 (3¼ mm) needles, or circular needle.[Editor's note: Please see the important notes about the wool used for the modern version, the consequent needle sizes used, and the sizing.]

A cable needle. Two press-fasteners.

Tension

Original yarn knits 24sts x 32 rows to four inches on No 10 needles.

Substitute yarn knits 22sts x 28 rows to four inches on No 8 (4mm) needles.

Size matters

Original sized for bust 33-35 inches; length from top of shoulders 20½ inches; sleeve seam: 17 or 4½ inches.

See "adapting the size".

**A word on the wool.

If you have some vintage Patons Moorland DK - you may like to note that I surmise they used this brand name for more than one version of this wool; I have some Moorland from the 1980s and I believe it is a relatively thick DK, which would be hard to contemplate knitting on No10 needles.

Sara used Twilleys Freedom Spirit DK, (120m per 50g ball), which knits as 22sts x 28 rows to 4ins on 4mm needles.
[Editor's note: This wool is ideal for felting, so be extra careful when washing it.]
If you use a needle size of No 8 (4mm) needles instead of the original needles, it will increase the nominal size of the sweater from 34 to 37 ins. This may be desirable.

See "adapting the size".

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Adapting the size:

The original pattern is for one size: 34-35 inch bust. The sweater is designed to be tightly fitting, and the nominal sweater size is just under 34 ins, so it intends there to be slight negative ease. The original wool and needle sizes indicate a "fine double knitting" wool with a tension of 24sts to 4 inches on 3¼mm (relatively fine) needles.

The sizing is a bit small for an average size these days, so moving to a conventional DK wool (22 sts to 4 ins on 4mm needles) makes a nominal size of about 36½ins, making the sweater suitable for up to a 37-38 ins bust. Also - whatever wool and needle size you opt for - note particularly the suggestion to move to a larger needle size when working the yoke.

If you increase the size by further gauge changes with thicker wool, you will find that the sweater may be less suited to the close fitting styling, and you lose the 50s "look".

Instructions:

(Make two gloves alike)

Cast on 36 stitches, arrange evenly over 3 needles.
Join in a round, and begin fancy rib as follows:

1st round: * K3, p1, k1, p1; repeat from * 6 times to end of round.
Repeat round 1 three more times.

5th round: * Slip1, k2, then pass the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted sts; p1, k1, p1; repeat from * 6 times to end of round. [30sts]
6th round: * K1, yon, k1, p1, k1, p1; repeat from * 6 times to end of round. [36sts]
7th and 8th rounds: as 1st.

Repeat rounds 5 through 8 four times more times.

21st round: as 5th.
22nd round (increase): * K1, yon, k1, p1, yon, k1,p1; repeat from * 6 times to end of round. [42 sts]

23rd round: * K3, p1, k2, p1; repeat from * 6 times to end of round.
24th round: * K3, p1, k2tog, yon, p1; repeat from * 6 times to end of round.
25th round: * Slip1, k2, then pass the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted sts; p1, k2, p1; repeat from * 6 times to end of round. [36sts]
26th round: * K1, yon, k1; p1, yon; slip1, k1, psso; p1; repeat from * 6 times to end of round. [42 sts]
Repeat rounds 23 through 26 three times more times.

39th round: * K3, p1, k2, p1; repeat from * 5 times.
Then: k3, p1, k1. Using waste yarn, knit the last 2 sts of the round.
Slip these 2 sts back onto the left needle and knit them again using working yarn.

40th round: Begin the next round continuing with the waste yarn, and k5. Slip these 5 sts back onto the left needle and knit them again using working yarn. Then finish the round as follows: k1, yon, p1; * k3, p1, k2tog, yon, p1; repeat from * 5 times to end of round. [43sts]

41st round: Slip1, k2, then pass the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted sts; p1, k2tog, k1, p1; * slip1, k2, then pass the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted sts; p1, k2, p1; repeat from * 5 times to end of round. [36sts]

42nd round: * K1, yon, k1; p1, yon; slip1, k1, psso; p1; repeat from * 6 times to end of round. [42 sts]

Repeat rounds 23 through 26 twice more. Cast off 42 sts (not too tightly).

Work the thumb.

Go back to the waste yarn and carefully remove it, placing the resulting live sts on two double-point needles; there will be 7
sts below the opening, that look like normal sts, and aim to get 8 sts above - ensure you pick up all the loops.

Now set off working in a round; starting with the 7 sts below the opening, arrange the sts as follows: Place the first 2 sts on a needle and leave for the end of the round.

Join in the yarn and using another needle, k3, p1, then k2tog (the last of the 7 lower sts and the first of the 8 upper sts), yon, then purl the second stitch from the upper needle. This is "needle one" and has 7 sts.
Using another needle, k1, k2tog, k1. This is "needle two" and has 3 sts.
Using another needle, p1, then k2tog (the last of the 8 upper sts and the first of the two sts you left for the end of the round), p1. This is "needle three" and has 4sts. [14 sts]

1st round: * Slip1, k2, then pass the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted sts; p1, k2, p1; repeat from * once to end of round. [12sts]
2nd round: * K1, yon, k1; p1, yon; slip1, k1, psso; p1; repeat from * once to end of round. [14 sts]
3rd round: * K3, p1, k2, p1; repeat from * once to end of round.
4th round: * K3, p1, k2tog, yon, p1; repeat from * once to end of round.
5th round: as 1st.
6th round: as 2nd.

Cast off 14 thumb sts loosely.

Making up:
Sew in all ends.

Materials

1 x 50g ball Rowan Kid Classic.

Small length of waste yarn in contrasting colour, (something slippery like cotton preferably).

One set of 4 No. 8 (4 mm) needles.

Tension

Kid Classic knits to a tension of 18sts and 24 rows to 4 inches on 6mm needles.

Size matters

Width all round above thumb, 7 ins. To alter the size use larger or smaller needles as required.

Abbreviations

yon: yarn over needle - makes an extra stitch which forms a small pattern hole when knitted on the next row.

psso: pass the slipped stitch over. Effectively you are "knitting 2 together through back loops"
(slip1, k1, psso is the same as ssk or "slip, slip, knit the 2 slipped sts together")

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions

With No. 9 needles, cast on 60 stitches loosely, and arrange over 3 needles.

1st round: * K4, p2; repeat from * to end of round.
2nd-4th rounds: As first round.
5th (cable) round: * C4B, p2; repeat from * to end of round.
6th round: As first round.

These are the six basic pattern rounds.

Repeat these six rounds twice more, (or as many times as you need to lengthen the sock at the ankle), and then the first round once again.
[Editor's note: If you want the sock to be longer in the leg, then add more rows here.]

Divide for heel flap.

Next Row: Knit the first 28 sts of the round on to one needle to work for the heel.

Divide the remaining 32 sts across 2 needles, and leave to work the instep later. If you have worked the pattern correctly there will be a symmetrical set of complete cables across the 32 instep sts, starting and ending with p2.

Return to your heel sts, and turn the work so that you can work back and forth across the heel sts using 2 needles.

Next Row: Slip1 purlwise then purl across the remaining 27 sts. [28 sts].
Next round: * Slip1, k1; repeat from * to end of round.

Repeat the last 2 rows 12 times more.

Turn the heel.

Work short rows as follows:

Next Row: Slip1 purlwise then purl across 15sts, p2tog, p1. Turn
Next Row: Slip1, k5, s1, k1, psso, k1. Turn
Next Row: Slip1 p6, p2tog, p1. Turn
Next Row: Slip1, k7, s1, k1, psso, k1. Turn

Continue working in this way until all the sts have been incorporated [16sts], ending with a knit row, and right side facing.

Continuing to work onto the same needle (needle 1), pick up and knit 15 sts along side of heel.
Slip all the instep sts on to one needle, and using a 2nd needle knit across instep sts, in the cable pattern, starting at the second row.
Using 3rd needle, pick up and knit 15 sts along side of heel.
Knit the first 8 sts from Needle 1, and slip these on to the end of Needle 3. [78 sts].

[Editor's note: I am not one to encourage a sloppy attitude to knitting, but...
When you pick up sts down the side of the heel flap for this design of sock it is not essential that you pick up exactly the number stated - you do not even have to pick up the same number down each side of the flap - I often find that I have one more on one side than the other (this is due to the way I make the heel flaps which we won't dwell on here!). Whatever you pick up, you must decrease to the right number as you do the shape the instep - it's not the number of decreases but the final number of sts that is important.
I would say though, that whatever you do on the first sock, try and remember to repeat it on the second sock - that's best...]

Shape the instep:

1st round: 1st needle: knit to the last 3sts, k2tog, k1.
2nd needle: Knit, following the 6-row cable pattern as set. 3rd needle: K1, slip1, k1, psso, knit to end.
2nd round: Knit.

Repeat these two rounds until 60sts remain (14 on the first needle, 32 on the second needle, 14 on the third needle).

Continue on these sts, (continuing the cable pattern on the upper foot as set), until you have completed 12 cable patterns from the very beginning of the work, or until work measures 2 inches less than the desired foot length.
[Editor's note: If you want the sock to be smaller or larger, alter the length here.]

Shape toe:

Continue in stocking stitch only (no more cables), as follows: knit the sts from Needle 1, then knit the first st from Needle 2 and put it on Needle 1. Knit 30 sts from Needle 2, then place the last st onto Needle 3. Knit across 15 sts on Needle 3.

1st round: 1st needle: knit to the last 3sts, k2tog, k1.
2nd needle: k1, slip1, k1, psso, knit to the last 3sts, k2tog, k1. 3rd needle: K1, slip1, k1, psso, knit to end. [56sts]
2nd round: Knit.

Repeat these 2 rounds until 32 sts remain, ending with 1st round.

Then repeat round 1 twice more [24 sts].

Making up.

Knit the sts from needle one, break the thread leaving a long tail.
Slip the sts from needles 1 and 3 onto one needle.

Graft the two sets of 12 sts together.
[Editor's note: if you have a suitable computer, here is a super video demo of grafting,otherwise use the link above for a picture demo]
Sew in all ends.

Make a second sock to match.

Materials

About 1 x 50g skein (139 metres) Phildar Oxygene, colour 38, Neptune.
[Editor's note: If you lengthen the sock at the ankle you will need more wool.]

One set of 4 No. 9 (3½mm) double- pointed needles.

Tension

23 sts x 30 rows to 4 inches measured over stocking stitch on No 9 (3½mm) needles.

Size matters

The pattern as written should fit a foot of 11 inches in length.

Abbreviations

C4B: "cable 4 back"; slip the next 2sts onto a cable needle and leave at the back of the work, k2, then k2 from cable needle.
This cable is ideal to work using the method without a cable needle.

psso: pass the slipped stitch over. Effectively you are "knitting 2 together through back loops"
(slip1, k1, psso is the same as ssk or "slip, slip, knit the 2 slipped sts together")

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist

Instructions.

This is a raglan cardigan, designed for a man and given in 3 sizes. Main size is given for a 40 inch chest and other 2 sizes are given in brackets.

Pattern:

The twisted rib pattern is worked over 24 rows as follows:

1st Row: S1, k1, * p2, k2; repeat from * to end.
2nd Row: S1, p1, * k2, p2; repeat from * to last 4sts; k2, p1,k1.
3rd Row: as first row
4th Row: as second row
5th Row: as first row
6th Row: as second row
7th Row: S1, k1, * p2, k2tog, yrn; repeat from * to last 4sts; p2, k2.
8th Row: S1, p1, * k2, k1tbl, p1; repeat from * to last 4sts; k2, p1, k1.
9th Row: S1, k1, p1, * k2tog, yrn, p2; repeat from * to last 3sts; k2tog, yfwd, k1.
10th Row: S1, * k1tbl, p1, k2; repeat from * to last st; k1.
11th Row: S1, p1, * k2tog, yrn, p2; repeat from * to last 4sts; k2tog, yrn, p1, k1.
12th Row: S1, k1,* k1tbl, p1, k2; repeat from * to end.
13th Row: S1, p1, * k2, p2; repeat from * to last 4sts; k2, p1, k1.
14th Row: S1, k1,* p2, k2; repeat from * to end.
15th Row: as 13th row
16th Row: as 14th row
17th Row: as 13th row
18th Row: as 14th row
19th Row: S1, p1,* yon, s1, k1, psso, p2; repeat from * to last 4sts; yon, s1, k1, psso, p1, k1.
20th Row: S1, k1, * p1, k1tbl, k2; repeat from ,* to end.
21st Row: S1, p2, * yon, s1, k1, psso, p2; repeat from * to last 3sts; yon, s1, k1 , psso, k1.
22nd Row: S1, p1, * k1tbl, k2, p1; repeat from * to last 4sts; k1tbl, k3.
23rd Row: S1, p3, * yon, s1, k1, psso, p2; repeat from * to last 2sts; yon, s1, k1 , psso.
24th Row: S1, * k1tbl, k2, p1; repeat from * to last st; k1.

Back:

Using No 12 needles, cast on 153 {161 : 169} sts.

1st Row: S1, k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch; k1.
2nd Row: S1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.

Repeat the first and second rows 7 times more, then the first row once.

18th Row: S1, * inc once in the next stitch purlwise; (k1, p1) 3 times; k1 * ;
repeat from * to * 8 times;
inc once in the next stitch purlwise; (k1, p1) 1{3 : 5} times;
inc once in the next stitch knitwise; (p1, k1) 1{3 : 5} times;
repeat from * to * 8 times;
inc once in the next stitch purlwise; (k1, p1) 3 times;
inc once in the next stitch knitwise; p1, k1.
[174 {182 : 190} sts].

Change to No 10 needles.
Now work the 24 rows of the pattern three times, then the first 6 rows again.

Next Row: S1, * k2tog, k7 *; repeat from * to * 8 times; k2tog, k2{6 : 10}; k2tog; k2{6 : 10}; repeat from * to * 8 times; k2tog, k6, k2tog, k2. [153 {161 : 169} sts]

Next Row: S1, purl to the last st, k1.

Continue in st-st until work measures 17 {17 : 18} inches, ending with a purl row.

Shape Armholes:
Cast off 8 sts at beginning of the next 2 rows.

Work 94 {86 : 78} rows decreasing once at each end of the next and every alternate row. [ 43 {59 : 75} sts]
Then work a further 6 {14 : 22} rows decreasing once at each end of every row, until 31 sts remain (on all sizes).
Cast off.

Right Front.

Using No 12 needles cast on 83 {87 : 91} sts.

1st Row: S1, k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch; k1.
2nd Row: S1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.

Repeat the first and second rows 7 times more, then the first row once

18th Row: S1, * inc once in the next stitch purlwise; (k1, p1) 5 times, *;
inc once in the next stitch knitwise; (p1, k1) 5 times;
[inc once in the next stitch purlwise; (k1, p1) 5 {6 : 7} times, k1] twice;
repeat from * to * once;
inc once in the next stitch knitwise; (p1, k1) 4 times;
p1, inc once in the next stitch knitwise, p1, k1.

Slip the last 12 sts of the row on to a stitch holder or safety pin to continue the front border later. Turn and continue knitting the right front on 78 {82 : 86} sts.

Change to No 10 needles, and work the 24 rows of the pattern three times, then the first 6 rows again, as you did for the back.

Next Row: S1, (k2tog, k10) twice; k2tog, k11{13 : 15}; k2tog, k11{13 : 15}; k2tog, k10, k2tog, k9, k2tog, k2.
[71 {75 : 79} sts]

Next Row: S1, purl to the last st, k1.

††

Continue in stocking stitch until work measures the same as the Back
to the armholes, ending with a knit row, and wrong side facing.

Shape Armhole:
Cast off 8 sts purlwise; purl to last st, k1.

Work 82 {82 : 78} rows decreasing once at the front edge on the next and every following 10th row - and at same time decrease once at the armhole edge on the next and every alternate row.
[ 13 {17 : 24} sts]

For the largest 44 inch size, work 4 more rows, decreasing once at the front edge on the 3rd row and at the same time decrease once at the armhole edge on every row. [19 sts]

For the small (40 inch) and medium (42 inch) sizes, work 12 {4} rows decreasing once at the armhole edge only on the next and every alternate row. [7 {15}sts].

Then work a further 4 {12 : 16} rows decreasing once at the armhole edge only on every row. [ 3 {3 : 3} sts]

Next Row: S1, k2tog.
Next Row: K2tog, break off yarn, fasten off.

Left Front:

Using No 12 needles cast on 83 {87 : 91} sts.

1st Row: S1, k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch; k1.
2nd Row: S1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.
Repeat the first and second rows once, then the 1st row again.

6th Row (make buttonhole): S1, (p1, k1) twice, p1; cast off 2 sts; continue in rib as set to end of row.
7th Row: S1, k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last 6 sts; cast on 2 sts over the ones you cast off on the row before, (k1, p1) twice, k2.
8th Row: as second.

Repeat the first and second rows 4 times more.

17th Row: S1, k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last 12 sts. Slip the last 12 sts of the row on to a stitch holder or safety pin to continue the front border later. Turn and continue knitting the left front on 71 {75 : 79} sts.

18th Row: S1, * inc once in the next stitch purlwise; (k1, p1) 5 times, *;
inc once in the next stitch knitwise; (p1, k1) 5 times;
[inc once in the next stitch purlwise; (k1, p1) 5 {6 : 7} times, k1] twice;
repeat from * to * once;
inc once in the next stitch knitwise; (p1, k1) 4 times;
p1, inc once in the next stitch knitwise, p1, k1.

Change to No 10 needles, and work exactly as given for the Right Front until †† is reached.

Continue in stocking stitch until work measures the same as the Back
to the armholes, ending with a purl row, and right side facing.

Shape Armhole:
Cast off 8 sts knitwise; knit to end.

Complete as given for the right front, reversing all shapings.

Sleeves:

Using No 12 needles cast on 63 {63 : 67} sts.

1st Row: S1, k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch; k1.
2nd Row: S1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.
Repeat the first and second rows 10 times.

Change to No 10 needles, and proceed in stocking stitch, increasing one stitch at each end of the 5th and every following 6th row until there are 109 {109 : 113} sts on the needle.

Continue without further shaping until the work measures 19 inches, ending with right side facing for the next row.

Shape Top:
Cast off 8 sts at beginning of the next 2 rows.

Work 44 {44 : 36} rows, decreasing 1 st at each end of the next and every folowing 4th row. [ 71 {71 : 79} sts]

Then work 56 {56 : 64} rows, decreasing 1 st at each end of the next and every alternate row. [ 15 {15 : 15} sts]

Cast off.

Making up:

Press pieces gently under a damp cloth according to the instructions on the yarn ball-band.
Sew up side and sleeve seams.
Placing seam to seam, sew decreased edges of the sleeve to the decreased edges of the body.

Right front border:

Place the 12 sts from the welt of the right front (kept on a safety pin) back on No 12 needles. With wrong side facing, rejoin the yarn and commence the rib as follows:

Next Row: Inc in the next stitch purlwise, k1; (p1, k1) 5 times.

Next Row: S1, k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch; k1.
Next Row: S1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.

Repeat the last two rows over the 13sts until border is of sufficient
length to go up front, across sleeve top and halfway across back of neck. Cast off in rib.

Left front border:

Place the 12 sts from the welt of the left front (kept on a safety pin) back on No 12 needles. With right side facing, rejoin the yarn and commence the rib as follows:
Next Row: Inc in the next stitch knitwise; (p1, k1) 5 times; k1.

Next Row: S1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.
Next Row: S1, k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch; k1.

Repeat the last two rows over the 13sts placing buttonholes at desired intervals as follows:
[Editor's note: I placed the buttonholes with about 28 rows between the pairs of buttonhole rows. This was about 3 inches apart. The topmost of the 5 buttons was about 4inches below the first front decreasing.]

Next Row (wrong side of work): S1, (p1, k1) twice, p1; cast off 2 sts; (p1, k1) twice.
Next Row (right side of work): S1, k1, (p1, k1) twice; cast on 2 sts over the ones you cast off on the row before, (p1, k1) twice, k1.

Continue in rib until border is of sufficient length to go up front, across sleeve top and halfway across back of neck. Cast off in rib.

Completion:

Sew ends of borders together. Sew borders to front edges. Sew on buttons to correspond with button holes.

Materials

4 ply: 9 : 10 : 11 50g balls [Editor's note: I used ony 7 balls of Luxe - see "Word on the Wool" below]

1 pair of No 10 (3¼mm) and 1 pair of No 12 (2¾mm) knitting needles.

5 buttons.

Tension

30 stitches to 4 inches over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit 40:42:44 inch chest; actual size 41:43:45 inches.
Sleeve seam length: 19 inches.

Abbreviations

inc: increase in the next stitch by knitting (or purling) twice into it.

yrn/yon/yfwd: yarn round needle / yarn over needle / yarn forward. Makes an extra stitch which forms a small pattern hole when knitted on the next row.

k1tbl: knit through back loop of the stitch. This has the effect of twisting the yrn or yon stitch that you made, making it tighter.

s1: slip one stitch.

psso: pass the slipped stitch over. Effectively you are "knitting 2 together through back loops"
(s1, k1, psso is the same as ssk or "slip, slip, knit the 2 slipped sts together")

A Word
on the Wool.

I used a pale grey shade of Phildar Luxe, (85% acrilic, 15% wool) - very practical and soft, but now available in a lamentably small colour range. Luxe knits to a tension of 32 sts and 41 rows to 4 inches.
It is a fine synthetic at 217yards / 201metres per 50g ball, and I used only 7 balls.

I used plastic buttons (to go with the practical theme) from my collection.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions.

The body of the bolero is worked in fancy rib over 2 rows as follows:

1st Row: Knit.
2nd Row: (K1, p1) repeated across row.
[Editor's note: Keep the rib aligned as you increase and decrease to get the shape.]

Back

Cast on 84 stitches and work in ribbed pattern as above.
K keeping the continuity of the rib carefully, cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of every row until 44 sts remain.

Now cast off 1 stitch at beginning of every row till 16 sts remain.

Work 20 rows straight.

Continue to work in pattern but increase 1 st at each end of the next and every following 3rd row until there are 26 sts on the needle.
Cast off.

Side Pieces

Using three needles, pick up and knit 110 stitches up right side of back piece, then cast on 122 stitches. Arrange the sts as follows:
1st needle: 92 stitches; 2nd needle: 70 stitches; 3rd needle: 70 stitches.

Join into a round and work 20 rounds in pattern.

Next Round: * k2, k2tog; repeat from * to end.
Work 15 more rounds in pattern, beginning with a rib row.
Next Round: k2tog all round, casting off firmly at the same time.

Work second side to correspond.

Border

With five needles, using 2 strands of wool together, and right side facing, pick up and knit 42 stitches across lower edge of back, 60 stitches round right side, 13 across back of neck and 60 stitches round left side.

1st Round: Knit.
2nd Round: Purl.
3rd Round: Knit.
4th Round: Purl.
5th Round: * K1 winding wool round needle 5 times; repeat from * to end.
6th Round: Purl, dropping all the stitches wound round needle.
7th Round: Knit.
8th Round: Purl, increasing once in every 4th stitch.
9th Round: Knit.
10th Round: * P1 winding wool round needle 5 times; repeat from * to end.
11th Round: Knit, dropping all the stitches wound round needle. 12th Round: Purl.
13th Round: Knit.

Repeat 12th and 13th rounds, then 12th round again.
Now, with crochet hook, fasten off by working 1dc into each stitch as it comes off the needle, with 1 chain loosely in between.

Sleeves

Starting at the top with two needles and double wool, cast on 36 stitches and knit 4 rows garter stitch (every row knitted).

†
5th Row: * K1 winding wool round needle 5 times; repeat from * to end.
6th Row: Cast on 3, knit to end, dropping all loop stitches.
7th Row: Cast on 3, knit to end.
8th Row: Knit.

Repeat from † once, then 5th row again.

Next Row: Cast on 6 stitches, knit to end, dropping all loop stitches.
Next Row: Cast on 6 stitches, knit to end.
Next Row: Knit.

†
Next Row: * K1 winding wool round needle 5 times; repeat from * to end.
Next Row: K2tog, knit to the last 2 sts, k2tog.
Next Row: Knit.
Next Row: K2tog, knit to the last 2 sts, k2tog.

Repeat from † once, and then again omitting decreasings.
Knit 2 rows.
Cast off.

Making up

Press very lightly only.
Join sleeve seams and sew in sleeves.
Press back border round neck to form roll collar .

Materials

Original quoted 5ozs Beehive Non-Shrink Baby Wool 3ply.

Five No 7 (4½mm) double-pointed needles, or one pair of needles and a circular needle.

No 8 (4mm) crochet hook.

[Alternative 9 (½ oz) balls Patons Fuzzy-Wuzzy Angora and five No 8 (4mm) needles]

Tension

28 stitches to 4 inches over pattern rib in back; 40 stitches to 4 inches over pattern rib in side pieces.

Size matters

To fit size 32-36 inch bust; length from top of shoulder to lower edge, 16 inches; sleeve seam, 4½ inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog: knit 2 sts together (decrease).

dc: double crochet remembering that this is UK notation, and in the US is referred to as single crochet.

ch: chain

A Word
on the Wool.

I have not made this up in a modern equivalent yarn so have no comments to offer from experience. From the tension, and the possible substitution of the angora yarn, it seems this would knit up with a modern 4 ply rather than 3 ply. Generally I refute the claim that old wools were thicker than modern ones - the bottom line is that in times past people patiently knitted much finer wools than we like today. However I have noticed that in the 1940s patterns there is no doubt that some of the 3 plys have tensions of 7 sts to the inch rather than the 8 or 9 that you expect with a 3 ply. I plan to knit this using handspun (hence not completed yet....)

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions.

The pattern works the instep and the sole separately on two needles to enable you to work the fair isle pattern across the instep only. It is not possible to achieve this in the round. However, you join the two together as you knit.

Using No 12 needles with main shade (M), cast on 59 sts loosely and join in a round. Work 4 rounds in moss (also known as seed) stitch [every row k1 p1].

Next Round (increasing): K3; (m1, k8) 7 times. [66 sts]

Cuff border:

Change to No 11 needles and join in contrast (C) and work wave pattern border by repeating the 6 stitch pattern 10 times:

1st Round: * k3 contrast (C), k3 navy (N); repeat from * to end.
2nd Round: * k1(N), k3(C), k1(N), k1(C) ; repeat from * to end.
3rd Round: * k2(N), k3(C), k1N; repeat from * to end.
4th Round: Knit in N.
5th Round (decreasing): K31; k2tog; ssk2tog; k31. [64 sts]

Now continue with cuff diamond pattern, repeating the 8 stitch pattern 8 times across one round:

6th Round: * k1(C), k2(N), k1(C), k2(N), k2(C); repeat from * to end.
7th Round: * k2(N), k1(C), k1(N), k1(C), k2(N), k1(C); repeat from * to end.
8th Round: * k1(N), k1(C), k3(N), k1(C), k2(N); repeat from * to end.
9th Round: * k1(C), k2(N), k1(C), k2(N), k1(C), k1(N) ; repeat from * to end.
10th Round: * k2(N), k3(C), k2(N), k1(C); repeat from * to end.
11th Round: As 9th.
12th Round: As 8th.
13th Round: As 7th.
14th Round: As 6th.

Now break off C and continue with N only; change to No 12 needles and work 7 rounds knitting.

Then turn the work so you are working the rounds in the other direction. This reverses the work to allow the cuff to fold over with the right side visible.

Work 8 more rounds knitting; at the end of the first round knit into the stitch below the first stitch of the round and knit it together with the last stitch of the round to avoid a small hole in the work.
Editor's note: Even if you don't understand how to do this, any tiny hole will not be visible as it is hidden under the cuff.

Join in C, working main diamond pattern, repeating the 8 stitch pattern 8 times:

1st Round: * k1(N), k2(C), k1(N), k2(C), k2(N), ; repeat from * to end.
2nd Round: * k2(C), k1(N), k1(C), k1(N), k2(C), k1(N); repeat from * to end.
3rd Round: * k1(C), k1(N), k3(C), k1(N), k2(C); repeat from * to end.
4th Round: * k1(N), k2(C), k1(N), k2(C), k1(N), k1(C); repeat from * to end.
5th Round: * k2(C), k3(N), k2(C), k1(N); repeat from * to end.
6th Round: As 4th.
7th Round: As 3rd.
8th Round: As 2nd.

These 8 rows form the pattern.
Work rows 1-5 inclusive again.

Continue with N only and divide for the heel, however do not break off C.

Divide for heel

Next Row: Using navy wool only, knit the next 31 stitches on to one needle to work for the heel.

Divide the remaining 33 sts across 2 needles, and leave to work the instep later. If you have worked the pattern correctly there will be a symmetrical set of complete patterns across the 33 instep sts. Make sure that it looks like this (you will have just completed row 5, the middle row in the picture):

[ Editor's note: If it doesn't look like this... you can compensate by knitting more or fewer sts for the heel flap until you get to the pattern boundary. Then when you purl back on the row below, follow the instructions as set to get your 30 sts. You should have your instep sts set correctly as above. If you still haven't then there is likely a mistake in your fair isle pattern.]

Return to your heel sts, and turn the work so that you can work back and forth across the heel sts using 2 needles.

Next Row: Purl back across 15 sts, p2 together, purl remaining 14 sts. [30 sts].

Heel flap

Next Row: * Slip 1, knit 1; repeat from * across all 30 sts.
Next Row: Slip the first stitch, p29.
Next Row: * Slip 1, knit 1; repeat from * across all 30 sts.

Repeat last 2 rows 13 times more.

Turn heel

Turn the heel by working short rows:

Next Row: Slip the first stitch, p16, p2tog, p1; turn.
Next Row: Slip1, k5, ssk, k1; turn.
Next Row: Slip 1, p6, p2tog, p1; turn.
Next Row: Slip 1, k7, ssk, k1; turn.

Continue in this way until all the sts have been incorporated in the row, ending with a knit row. [18 sts]

Turn. Purl one row.
Do not turn work, do not break wool.

Pick up and purl 16 sts down side of heel flap to bring the navy wool back to work the patterned instep. Leave these 16 sts along with the 18 heel sts, on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Upper foot panel

Take 33 sts left on needles 1 and 2, and slip them on to one needle.

Continue to use the navy yarn and pick up the contrast C, which should be waiting for you at the beginning of a purl side instep row (row 6 of the pattern). Begin working back and forth across these 33 sts, keeping the continuity of the pattern starting with a purl row and working from row 6 of the chart where you left off; work alternate rows in knit and purl.
Work the first 6 rows without slipping the first stitch and after that, slip the first stitch of every row.

Continue for 5½ inches or 4 inches less than overall desired foot length, ending with a knit row.
[ Editor's note: This is where you can adjust the length of the foot. Each pattern is approximately 1 inch, and it is nicer if you can end your work after one complete pattern, which will be to the nearest half-inch, after knitting row 5 or row 1 of the pattern. If your feet have not grown to a multiple of half inches you can still work to complete patterns, and compensate by adding a couple of rows when you work the toe.]

Break contrast yarn, and continue in navy only.

Turn the work and purl across 15 sts; p2tog; p16.

Continue with wrong side facing, using another No 12 needle, pick up and purl about 27sts from the slipped sts down the right side of the upper foot panel, and from the edges of the first 5 rows you knitted.
[ Editor's note: This is 27 sts, or more, or less, depending on how you adjusted the foot length. Also - when you pick up these sts you may want to work the sts through their back loops to keep them tight.]

Mark the stitch, by placing a piece of waste wool between the sts at this point. The waste wool should be about 6 inches long in an easily distinguished contrasting colour, and smooth, (for example cotton), as it will be woven between rows, and later pulled out.

Using the same No 12 working needle, pick up and purl 17 sts from side of heel flap, then purl 9 sts from the heel.

Using another No 12 working needle, purl the 9 remaining heel sts, and then purl the 16 sts you already picked up from the other side of the heel flap.

Mark the stitch with a piece of waste wool, as before.

Continuing with this needle, purl along the left side of the upper foot panel, picking up 27 sts from the edges of the first 6 rows you knitted and from the slipped edge sts.

The work is arranged on 3 needles. The picture shows the working needle in the process of knitting across the sole, and the waste wool markers in white.
[ Editor's note: This is where you need the needles to be long. I managed with 8 inch dpns but they really need to be longer to ensure you don't lose sts off the ends. While you are working and joining the sole, it might be prudent to put end stops on the two working needles.

Purl across the 32 sts at the top of the panel. Then using one of the spare needles, purl down the right side of the panel again, as far as the stitch marker.]
The marker is trapped between sts in the row below; pass the waste wool between the sts again before continuing, so that it will be trapped between the rows and continue to mark the sts for the sole section.

Do not turn the work.

Sole

Using the No 12 working needles, you are going to knit back and forth across the sole (between the markers) in stocking stitch, knitting the last stitch from each row together with one stitch from the upper foot panel.

1st Row: (Wrong side facing) Slip1, p24 from first needle, (16 sts up side of heel and 9 sts from heel flap), then purl 24 sts from second needle, up to 1 stitch before the stitch marker. Purl the last stitch of the sole section together with the first of the instep sts. [50sts between the markers]
Turn.
Continue to work sole on 3 needles, one working needle and the sts arranged evenly over the other 2.

2nd Row: (Right side facing) Pass the waste wool marker between the sts. Slip 1, ssk2tog; knit to the last 3 sts before the marker; k2tog, ssk the last stitch of the row together with the next instep stitch as before. [48sts between the markers] Turn.
3rd Row: Pass the waste wool marker between the sts. Slip 1, purl to the last stitch; purl together the last of the sole sts with the first instep stitch as before. [48sts between the markers] Turn.

Repeat 2nd and 3rd rows, shaping the sole by decreasing 2 sts on the knit rows, until 28 sole sts remain between the markers.

Then continue without shaping as follows (continuing to weave in the markers as before):

Next Row: Slip 1, purl to the last stitch before the marker; purl together the last of the sole sts with the first instep stitch as before.
Next Row: Slip 1, knit to the last st before the marker; ssk the last stitch of the row together with the next instep stitch as before. Turn.

Repeat the last 2 rows until all the sts from the sides of the upper foot have been joined to the sole. Do not join any of the sole sts to the 32 sts left on the 4th needle at the end of the panel.
End with a knit row. Do not turn.

Toe

Now you continue to work the sole and upper foot sts together in a round, as follows:

With right side facing, using your working needle (needle 1), knit across 32 sts from the upper foot. Knit the next 14 sts from the sole on to the next needle (needle 2), and knit the final 14 sts from the sole on to the next needle (needle 3).
Knit the first stitch from the upper foot panel on needle 1 and slip it on to the end of needle 3. Slip the last stitch from the upper foot panel on to the beginning of needle 2.

You have 60 sts arranged with 30 sts on needle 1, and 15 sts on each off needles 2 and 3.

Continue to work in rounds as follows:

[ Editor's note: This is where you can adjust the length of the foot if your feet have not grown to a multiple of half inches. Work a couple of extra plain rounds here before starting the decreasing.]

1st Round: Needle 1: k1, ssk2tog; knit to the last 3 sts; k2tog, k1.
Needle 2: k1, ssk2tog, knit to end.
Needle 3: knit to the last 3 sts; k2tog, k1. [56 sts]
2nd Round: Knit.

Repeat rounds 1 and 2 until 24 sts remain.
[ Editor's note: You can decrease further if you have pointed toes.]

Slip the sts from needles 1 and 2 on to one needle and graft together with the sts on needle 3.

Making up

Sew in all ends. Fold down cuff.

Materials

4 ply: 2 ozs navy, 1 oz contrast colour.

One set each of 4 double pointed needles (dpns) size 11 (3mm) and 12 (2¾mm).
The smaller (12) needles need to be 9 or more inches in length.

Tension

30 stitches and 32 rows to 4 inches over pattern.

Size matters

Length from top to bottom of heel, top turned down, 5 inches; length of foot 9 inches (adjustable).

Abbreviations

N is main shade (navy).
C is contrast (pink).

m1: make one by picking up the loop between sts and knitting into the back of it

ssk/ssk2tog: (slip, slip, knit) - or (slip1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over). Effectively you are "knitting 2 together through back loops".

A Word
on the Wool.

The recommended wool was Patons Purple Heather Fingering, (which in this era was a pure wool 4 ply), in navy for the main shade and white for the contrast.

Example used Sunbeam St Ives Sock wool in navy and Jaeger Baby Merino 4 ply in pink (50g balls, each about 200yds) - almost all of one ball of the main, and about half of the contrast.
Both wools are now extinct I think but substitute 4ply sock wools are fairly easy to find.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions.

This pattern is worked in several sections including intarsia techniques, (to insert the vertical colour for the cable stripes); and jaquard (to make the dots).

For the cables, and edge stitches, do not strand yarn across wrong side of work, but use separate balls: this will be 2 bobbins for the Navy cables and 2 bobbins for the Citron edge stitches. Twist the colours on wrong side where they meet to avoid a hole.

Use your main ball of wool for the centre section in Citron (main shade), again twisting it where it meets the navy cable bobbin.
When working the row of coloured dots join in and break off the navy at the beginning and end of the row.

Here is a picture of the wrong side of the work:

[ Editor's note: Yes this does mean you have to sew in all those ends ]    

Back:

With No 10 needles and contrast colour, cast on 70 [74, 78, 86, 90, 94, 102, 106, 114] sts and work in K2, P2 rib for 3 [3, 4, 4, 5, 6, 6, 6, 6] cm, (rows on right side having K2) at each end.

End with right side facing for next row and increase 1 st at end of last row (71 [75, 79, 87, 91, 95, 103, 107, 115] sts).
Change to No 8 needles and work in cables and colour pattern as follows:
1st Row: (Right side facing) K3 in main shade (M) from bobbin, k6 in contrast (C) from bobbin, knit in main shade ball to last 9 sts; k6 in C from bobbin, k3 in M from bobbin.
2nd Row: K3 in M, p6 in C; change to main shade ball M and k3, purl to last 12 sts; k3; p6 in C, k3, in M.
3rd Row: (Make row of dots) K3 in M, k6 in C; then for centre section:
k3 in M; *p3 in M, put M yarn to back of work; join in C and, using your separate strand of contrast, k1 in C, then bring M forward again for your next purl stitch; repeat from * (stranding the unused yarn colour across the back of the work) to last 15 sts, break off separate strand of contrast C; p3 in M, k3 in M, k6 in C, K3 in M.
4th Row: as second
5th Row: as first
6th Row: as second
7th Row: (Make row of dots and cable) K3 in M, C6F in C; then for centre section:
k3 in M; *p1 in M, put M yarn to back of work; join in C and, using your separate strand of contrast, k1 in C, then bring M forward again p2 in M; repeat from * (stranding the unused yarn colour across the back of the work as before) to last 15 sts; p1 in M, put M yarn to back of work, k1 in C, bring M forward again p1 in M; k3 in M, C6B in C, K3 in M.
8th Row: as second

These 8 rows form the pattern.

Continue in pattern until back measures 34 [37, 41, 43, 46, 48, 49, 51, 51] cm, ending with right side facing for next row.
Shape shoulders by casting off 11 [12, 13, 9, 10, 12, 11, 12, 13] sts at beg of next 2 rows, then cast off 12 [12,12, 10,10,10,12, 12, 13] sts at beg of next 2 [2, 2, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4] rows.
Leave remaining 25 [27, 29, 29, 31, 31, 33, 35, 37] sts on a spare needle.

Front:

Work as for back until front measures 26 [29, 33, 35, 37, 39, 39, 41,41] cm, ending with right side facing for next row.