Pattern of the Month

Instructions.

Starting at top with the cuff, using the main colour, cast on 64 stitches on three needles (21,22, 21).
[Editor's note: I recommend using one size larger needles than you use for the plain portion of the sock, as Fair Isle technique tends to pull the tension a little tighter.]
Join in a circle, being careful not to twist the stitches, and knit 2 rounds.
[Editor's note: To avoid the cuff curling up so much, I actually did one row purl then one row knit.]
Then work in the cuff pattern as follows (there is a chart at the end of the section):

3rd Round: * k1 contrast (C), k1 main (M); repeat from * to end of round.
4th Round: * k1 M, k1C; repeat from * to end of round.
5th and 6th Round: knit all round in M.
7th Round: * k1C, k2M, k2C, k2M, k3C, k2M, k2C, k2M; repeat from * to end of round.
8th Round: k2C, * k2M, k2C, k2M, k1C, k2M, k2C, k2M, k3C; repeat from * all round, ending k1C.
9th Round: * k1M, k2C, k2M, k2C, k3M, k2C, k2M, k2C; repeat from * to end of round.
10th Round: k2M, *k2C, k2M, k2C, k1M, k2C, k2M, k2C, k3M; repeat from * all round, ending k1M.
11th - 14th Rounds: Repeat 7th to 10th rounds.
15th Round: * k1C, k2M, k2C, k7M, k2C, k2M; repeat from * to end of round.
16th Round: as 8th round.
17th Round: * k1M, k2C, k4M, k3C, k4M, k2C; repeat from * to end of round.
18th Round: as10th round.
19th Round: * k1C, k4M, k2C, k3M, k2C, k4M; repeat from * to end of round.
20th Round: as 8th round.
21st Round: as 7th round.
22nd and 23rd Rounds: knit all round in M.
24th and 25th Rounds: repeat 3rd and 4th rounds.
26th and 27th Rounds: knit all round in M.

This completes the cuff.

Break colour C and continue in main colour only.
[Editor's note: Change to smaller needles here.]

Turn the work inside out to make a fold-over cuff and start to work the rounds in the opposite direction.

Work in k2, p2 rib for 3 inches [Editor's note: about 30 rows.], decreasing 8 stitches in the last round only, by knitting together every 7th and 8th stitch.

Next Round: k2tog, knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [54 stitches]

Now work in stocking-stitch (knit every round) for 2 inches.
[Editor's note: about 20 rows.]

Heel

Knit 13 stitches of first needle on to third needle (this is the heel needle), then turn and purl back 26 stitches; divide the remaining 28 stitches equally onto the other two needles. Work back and forth over heel needles as follows:

1st Row: slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit across remaining stitches.
2nd Row: slip 1 stitch purlwise, purl across remaining stitches.
Repeat these last 2 rows alternately until piece measures 2 inches.
[Editor's note: I recommend knitting 26 rows.]

Next Row (right side facing): knit across first 16 stitches, k2tog; turn.

Next Row: p7, p2tog; turn.
Next Row: k7, k2tog; turn.
Repeat the last 2 rows alternately until 8 stitches remain on heel needle.

Next Round: needle 1: knit across heel needle, then pick up 14 stitches down left side of heel; needle 2: knit across next two, needles (thus transferring these stitches on to one needle); needle 3: pick up 14 stitches across other side of heel and k4, from needle 1.

Hereafter, work in rounds of stocking stitch but, on every other round, k2tog at end of first needle, and (s1, k1, psso) at beginning of third needle until 54 stitches remain.

Work straight until piece measures 2 inches less than that required for overall foot length.

[Editor's note: This was about 50 rows for my UK size 4 foot. (EU 37, US 6½.]

Toe

There should be 13 stitches on first needle, 28 on the second needle, and 13 on the third needle. End of round is centre of sole. Work 1 round, decreasing at each end of second needle, then one round straight.

Now there are 13 stitches on first needle, 26 on the second needle, and 13 on the third needle.

Next Round: knit to within 3 stitches of the end of the first needle, k2tog, k1; on second needle, k1, (s1, k1, psso), knit to within last 3 stitches, then k2tog, k1; on third needle, k1, (s1, k1, psso), knit to end of round.
Work 1 round straight.

Repeat the last 2 rounds until 16 stitches remain.
Transfer the stitches on to two needles, having 8 stitches on each needle and divided so that sole lies flat.

Graft the stitches together.

Making up

Sew in all ends. Fold down cuff.

Materials

3ozs Patons Real Shetland Wool.
[2 ozs main shade and 1oz contrasting shade. Original uses white and scarlet].

A set of four No 11 needles, pointed at both ends.

Tension

30 stitches = 4ins

Size matters

Length of foot, 9 inches (adjustable).

Abbreviations

M is main shade (white).
C is contrast (red).

psso: pass the slipped stitch over, (also known as "ssk"; effectively you are "knitting 2 together through back loops").

A Word
on the Wool.

The recommended wool was Patons Real Shetland Wool.

I used Cygnet Wool-Rich 4ply. I chose this yarn as it seemed fine enough to achieve the required tension. I worked mainly on No 12 needles (one size smaller than specified) using No 11s for the Fair Isle section. However I think a conventional 4 ply at 28sts to 4 inches would make a better fabric.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Front

With No 12 (2¾mm) needles and main shade cast on cast on 120 sts loosely and work 24 rows in stocking stitch, starting with a knit row.
[Editor's note: To aid the fold of a hem, (which is what this is), a garter stitch row is sometimes inserted half way. So - you could knit 11 rows in stocking stitch, and then knit one row on the wrong side - then continue with the stocking stitch to 24 rows.]

Make a hem on the next row by knitting 1 stitch from needle together with 1 stitch from cast-on edge.
Purl back.

Change to No.11 needles and work 4 rows stocking stitch, then shape basque as follows:

Next row: k33, k2togtbl, k50, k2tog, k33
Work 5 rows straight.
Next row: k32, k2togtbl, k50, k2tog, k32
Work 5 rows straight.
Next row: k31, k2togtbl, k50, k2tog, k31
Work 5 rows straight.

Continue decreasing thus on next and every following 6th row until 108 sts. remain.
Work 5 rows straight.

Shape waist as follows:

Next row: *k8, k2tog; repeat from * to last 8 sts, k8
Next row: *p8, increase in the next st; repeat from * to last 8 sts, p8. [108 sts]

Begin working the check pattern, introducing the two contrast colours C1 and C2.
[Editor's note: In the original pattern they plunge straight in with the 2 by 2 check, but I think Sara has framed her panel by starting and ending with a row of C1 (green), which I think looks rather smart.]

1st row (right side facing): * k2 C1, k2 C2; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: * p2 C2, p2 C1; repeat from * to end.
3rd row: * k2 C2, k2 C1; repeat from * to end.
4th row: * p2 C1, p2 C2; repeat from * to end.

Continue in pattern repeating the 4 rows as set above, increasing 1 stitch at each end of the next and every following 6th row. Incorporate the extra sts keeping the chack pattern correct.

When work measures 10 inches at centre....
[Editor's note: The check panel is approximately 50 rows, depending on your own tension.]
....change back to main shade and continue in stocking stitch, still increasing at side edge as before until there are 130 sts.
Work straight until front measures 13 inches at centre.

With right side facing, cast on 10 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows for the sleeves, [150 sts].
Continue straight until sleeve measures 6 inches. With right side facing, shape shoulders and neck as follows:

Cast off 10, k50; turn and leave remaining sts on a stitch holder.

Now decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge on the next 10 rows; then, keep the neck edge straight, but at the same time cast off 5 sts on every alternate row at the armhole edge until all sts are gone.

Return to the remaining sts on the stitch holder; slip the centre 30 sts on to a stitch holder, and rejoin the wool to the remaining 60 sts.
Work to correspond with the first shoulder.

Back

Work as for the front to the end of the check pattern.

Work 2 rows in main shade, then divide for back opening.
Work on the first half of the stitches, leaving the remainder on a stitch holder.
Continue shaping side edge until there are 65 sts on needle, then work straight until side edge matches back to armhole.
With right side facing, cast on 10 sts at the beginning of the next row, then continue straight until sleeve measures 6 inches.
With right side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 10 sts at the beginning of the next row, then 5 sts on the following 8 alternate rows.

Cast off remaining stitches.

Rejoin the wool to the remaining stitches at the centre and work to correspond with the right half of the back.

To Make Up

Press work on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Join shoulder seams.

Neck: With right side facing, main shade, and No 12 needles, pick up and knit 90 sts all round the neck, including 30 sts from the stitch holder on the front.
Work 2½ inches stocking stitch, starting with a purl row.
Cast off very loosely using a bigger needle.
Fold neckband in half and catch down on wrong side; press.
[Editor's note: I have to say, I am not clear from these instructions whether you should work the neckband on 2 needles - hence the "starting with a purl row", or whether you are working on 4 needles, but in reverse stocking stitch - given that you are instructed to join (implies both) shoulder seams before you begin.
Sara's version uses conventional stocking stitch which matches the hem. If you work backwards and forewards on 2 needles, only join one shoulder seam, and join the second with the neckband when you have finished..]

Join side and under-arm seams; work 2 rows dc round each sleeve edge. Turn back 1 inch of sleeve to form a cuff and catch in position at shoulder and under-arm.

[Editor's note: Sara leaves the sleeves plain after this point - instructions below introduce additional trim.]
Make a chain to go round each sleeve edge, then work 1 row dc across this chain. Sew in position round sleeve just below crochet edgings.

Work 3 rows dc down left side of back opening, including neckband, then 3 rows down right side making 24 button loops in 3rd row.

Sew on buttons.
Press seams.

Materials

Original materials called for: 5 ozs Patons Beehive Fingering 3ply in main shade (lipstick red) and 1oz each of grey and white.

A pair each Nos 11 and 12 (3mm and 2¾mm) needles.

A No 12 (2¾mm) crochet hook.

24 small buttons.

Tension

8 sts and 10 rows to an inch.

Size matters

Original sized for bust 33-34 inch bust;
length from top of shoulders: 20½ ins.

See "adapting the size".

Abbreviations

k2tog: decrease by knitting 2 sts together.

k2togtbl: decrease by knitting 2 sts together through back loops, sometime called ssk (slip 1 knitwise, slip 1 knitwise, place 2 sts back on left needle and knit 2 slipped sts together through back loops)

Crochet abbreviations:

ch = chain
dc = double crochet

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

A word on the wool.

Sara used Posh Yarn Diana 2 ply - about 600 yards for the main colour, and about 90 yards for the green contrast. For the white she used Capricorn Yarns brushed mohair 4 ply.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Adapting the size:

As with many of these 50s patterns, only one size is given: 33-34 inch bust. The sweater is designed to fit snugly, but probably will not fit most of us.

It is designed to be knitted in 3 ply at about 30 sts to 4 inches. You can gain some leeway by changing the yarn - this is a simple shape so it should cope with that - you should check the length you want and adjust the inches you knit accordingly.

Sara cleverly converted the pattern to a top down knit on the fly, and this would be ideal to try that that if you are bold enough.

Instructions.

This pattern is given for 2 size options - the instructions for the larger size are blue bold type in curly brackets.

Back

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles cast on cast on cast on 55{61} sts and work rib as follows:
1st rib row: K2; *p1, k1; repeat from * to last st, k1.
2nd rib row: *K1, p1; repeat from * to last st, k1.
Repeat these 2 rows 4 times, then 1st row once.

12th rib row: Rib 3{6}, (increase in next st, rib 6) 7 times, increase in next st, rib to end. [63{69}sts]

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and proceed in cable pattern as follows:

1st row (right side facing): K9{10}; p1, k4, p1; k11{13}; (p1, k4, ) twice, p1; k11{13}; p1, k4, p1; k9{10}.
2nd row: K1, purl to the last st, k1.
3rd row: K9{10}; p1, C2F, p1; k11{13}; p1, C2F, p1; p1, C2B, p1; k11{13}; p1, C2B, p1; k9{10}.
4th row: as second row.
5th row: as first row.
6th row: as second row.
These 6 rows form the pattern.

Continue in pattern until you have completed row 28{32}.

Shape raglan: (keep continuity of pattern as you work these rows).

[Editor's note: you should be about to begin Row 5 of the pattern sequence for the smaller size and Row 3 (a cable row) for the larger size.]

Next row: Cast off 3sts, work to end.
Next row: Cast off 3sts, work to end.
Next row: K1, s1, k1, psso, work to last 3sts, k2tog, k1.
Next row: K1, purl to the last st, k1.

Repeat last 2 rows 18{20} times, [19{21}sts]
Cast off.

Front

With No 10 (3¼mm) needles cast on cast on cast on 55{61} sts and work rib for the first 11 rows as you did for the back.

12th rib row: Rib 3{6}, (increase in next st, rib 7) 6 times, increase in next st, rib to end. [62{68}sts]

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and proceed as follows:

1st row (right side facing): K9{10}; p1, k4, p1; k8{9}; (p1, k1, ) 8{9} times; k1.

Turn and continue working on these 40{44}sts to make the left front (these instructions are intended for a boy - see editors note below) and slip remaining 22{24} sts on to a stitch holder and leave to work later.

[Editor's note: If you want to make this for a girl - maybe in white? - then you will perhaps want to reverse these instructions by working the first 22{24} sts, casting on 20sts and working on these 40{44} sts as written, omitting the button holes. Pick up the rest of the sts to work the right front - and don't forget to work the buttonholes on the right front!]

2nd row: (K1, p1) 9{10} times; purl to the last st, k1.

[Editor's note: The centre panel on each of the front pieces is worked in double moss stitch, and I found it convenient to put a stitch marker after I had worked the first 18{20} sts of row 2, to show the limit of this section.]

3rd row: K9{10}; p1, C2B, p1; k7{8}; * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.
4th row: K2, (p1, k1) 8{9} times; purl to the last st, k1.
5th row (on which buttonholes are worked): K9{10}; p1, k4, p1; k8{9}; p2tog, yrn, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last 3 sts; yfwd, k2tog, k1.
6th row: as second row.
7th row: K9{10}; p1, k4, p1; k7{8}; * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.
8th row: as 4th row.
9th row: K9{10}; p1, C2B, p1; k8{9}; * p1, k1; repeat from * to last st, k1.
10th row: as second row.
11th row: as 7th row.
12th row: as 4th row.

Keeping cable and moss stitch panel correct throughout, work 16{20} rows, working buttonholes as before on the 9th of these rows (row 21 for both sizes).

Shape raglan: (keep continuity of pattern across the cables and the centre moss stitch panel as you work these rows).

Next row: Cast off 3sts, work to end.
Next row: Work across in pattern to the last st, k1.
Next row: K1, s1, k1, psso, work to end.
Next row: Work across in pattern to the last st, k1.

Repeat last 2 rows 10{11} times, [26{29}sts]
Next row: K1, s1, k1, psso, work to end.
Next row: Cast off 5sts, work across in pattern to the last st, k1.
Next row: K1, s1, k1, psso, work to end, and cast on 5 sts.
[Editor's note: This creates the jacket-style revere].

** Keeping continuity of the pattern, continue to decrease at the armhole edge as before until 18{20} sts remain of the moss stitch panel.
Work a further 16{18} rows straight in moss stitch as set.
Cast off.

Completing the other side to make the right front:

Slip the sts from the stitch holder on to a No 10 needle, point facing centre of work (right side facing you), and cast on 18{20}sts. [40{44}sts].
Change to No 8 needles and proceed as follows:

1st row (right side facing): K2; (p1, k1) 8{9} times; k7{8}; p1, k4, p1; k9{10}.
2nd row: K1, purl to the last 18{20} sts; (p1, k1) 9{10} times.
3rd row: (K1, p1 ) 9{10} times; k7{8}; p1, C2F, p1; k9{10}.
4th row: K1, purl to the last 18{20} sts; (k1, p1) 8{9} times; k2.
5th row: as first row.
6th row: as second row.
7th row: (K1, p1 ) 9{10} times; k7{8}; p1, k4, p1; k9{10}.
8th row: as 4th row.
9th row: K2; (p1, k1) 8{9} times; k7{8}; p1, C2F, p1; k9{10}.
10th row: as second row.
11th row: as 7th row.
12th row: as 4th row.

Keeping cable and moss stitch correct throughout, work 17{21} more rows, thus finishing at side edge.

Shape raglan: (keep continuity of pattern across the cables and the centre moss stitch panel as you work these rows).

Next row (wrong side facing): Cast off 3sts, work to end.
Next row: Work across in pattern to the last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Next row: K1, work to end.

Repeat the last 2 rows 10{11} times, [26{29}sts]

Next row: Cast off 5sts, work across in pattern to the last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Next row: K1, work to end, cast on 5 sts.

Complete to match the left side of front, working from ** to end.

Right sleeve:

Using No 10 needles, cast on 32{34}sts. Work 13{15} rows in k1, p1 rib.

Next row: Rib 3{4}; (increase in next st, rib 4) 5 times; increase in next st, rib to end. [38{40}sts]

Change to No 8 needles and proceed in stocking stitch with cable panels set as follows:

1st row (right side facing): K3{3}; (p1, k4, p1, k7{8}) twice; p1, k4, p1; k3{3}.
2nd row: K1, purl to the last st, k1.
3rd row: K3{3}; (p1, C2B, p1, k7{8}) twice; p1, C2B, p1; k3{3}.
4th row: as second row.
5th row: as first row.
6th row: as second row.
These 6 rows form the pattern.

Continue in pattern as on last 6 rows, increasing 1 st at both ends of next and every following 6th row, until there are 50{54}sts; work the extra sts in stocking stitch.
Then work 3{7} rows straight before starting the raglan decreases.

Shape raglan by working rows as you did for the back:

Next row: Cast off 3sts, work to end.
Next row: Cast off 3sts, work to end.
Next row: K1, s1, k1, psso, work to last 3sts, k2tog, k1.
Next row: K1, purl to the last st, k1.

Repeat last 2 rows 18{20} times, [6{6}sts]
Cast off.

Right sleeve:

Work as for the right sleeve, but working C2F instead of C2B.

[Editor's note: The sleeves are identical apart from the way the cables twist, and obviously you can choose to sew them into the Reefer in whatever orientation you prefer.]

To Make Up

Block each piece from the wrong side, pressing very lightly using a warm iron and a damp cloth, omitting the ribbing.

Join side, raglan, and sleeve seams using a flat seam.
Stitch the collar into position across the sleeve tops and back of the neck, joining the 20 cast-off sts together at the centre back.

Stitch down the 20 cast-on stitches at the waist on the inside.
Attach buttons to match buttonholes.
Press seams lightly.

Materials

Original materials called for: 3{4} ozs Patons Quickerknit Baby (wool or bri-nylon).
Sample shown (larger size) used 4 x 50g balls Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino in navy blue.

A pair each Nos 8 and 10 (4mm and 3¼mm) needles.

Four gold coloured buttons (mine are inexpensive plastic buttons with anchor design).

Tension

24 sts and 32 rows to 4 inches on No 8 needles. You may need to use a smaller needle to get the right tension using the Baby Cashmerino.

Size matters

Chest 20{22} ins. Length, 9½{10½} ins. Sleeve seam, 6¾{7¾} ins.

Abbreviations

C2F: "cable 2 front". Slip 2sts on to a cable needle, leave at front of work, knit 2sts, then knit 2sts from cable needle.

C2B: "cable 2 back". Slip 2sts on to a cable needle, leave at back of work, knit 2sts, then knit 2sts from cable needle.

Increase: increase by knitting into front and back of the next stitch.

k2tog: (decrease) knit 2 sts together.

s1,k1,psso: (decrease) slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, or "ssk", slip, slip, knit.

yrn/yfwd: yarn round needle / yarn forward.
Makes an extra stitch which forms a buttonhole when knitted on the next row.

A word on the wool.

I believe "quicknit" wools evolved as a compromise yarn for baby designs. They were half way between traditional DK and 4 ply; Phildar marketed Pronostic (a synthetic) which was much used for their baby patterns, being hard wearing and practical.
These days there are many yarn weight variations without rigid adherence to specific tension schemes, and so light worsted weights are much more common than when this pattern first appeared.

Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino is one such yarn being of superb quality, highly practical, and knitting to this convenient gauge for baby knitwear.
I used the No 8 needles as specified in the pattern, and produced a fairly loose fabric; I think the yarn is better suited to No 9 or 10 needles (3¾ mm - 3¼ mm).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions.

Cables are worked as follows:

Cable 8: Slip next 4sts. onto a cable needle and leave at back of work; k4, then k4 from cable needle.
Cable 7: Slip next 4sts. onto a cable needle and leave at back of work; k3, then k4 from cable needle.
Cable 6: Slip next 3sts. onto a cable needle and leave at back of work; k3, then k3 from cable needle.
Cable 5: Slip next 3sts. onto a cable needle and leave at back of work; k2, then k3 from cable needle.
Cable 4: Slip next 2sts. onto a cable needle and leave at back of work; k2, then k2 from cable needle.
Cable 3: Slip next 2sts. onto a cable needle and leave at back of work; k1, then k2 from cable needle.

Now begin the yoke, which is worked in one piece.

Cast on 288 sts fairly loosely and work in cable pattern as follows:

1st row (right side facing): P4, * k8, p8; repeat from * to last 12 sts, k8, p4.
2nd row: K4, * p8, k8; repeat from * to last 12 sts, p8, k4.

Repeat the 1st and 2nd rows 3 times more.

9th row: P4, * cable8, p8; repeat from * to last 12 sts, cable8, p4.
10th row: as 2nd row.
11th row: as 1st row.
12th row (decrease row): K4, * p8, k3, k2tog, k3; repeat from * to last 12 sts, p8, k4. [271 sts]
13th row: P4, * k8, p7; repeat from * to last 12 sts, k8, p4.
14th row: K4, * p8, k7; repeat from * to last 12 sts, p8, k4.
15th and 16th rows: as 13th and 14th rows.
17th row: P4, * cable8, p7; repeat from * to last 12 sts, cable8, p4.
18th row (decrease row): K4, * p3, p2tog, p3, k7; repeat from * to last 12 sts, p3, k2tog, p3, k4. [253 sts]

Work 5 rows straight keeping the continuity of the cable rib pattern.

24th row (decrease row): K4, * p7, k3, k2tog, k2; repeat from * to last 11 sts, p7, k4. [236 sts]
25th row: P4, * cable7, p6; repeat from * to last 11 sts, cable7, p4.

Work 4 rows straight keeping the continuity of the cable rib pattern.

30th row (decrease row): K4, * p3, k2tog, p2, k6; repeat from * to last 11 sts, p3, p2tog, p2, k4. [218 sts]

Work 2 rows straight keeping the continuity of the cable rib pattern.

33rd row: P4, * cable6, p6; repeat from * to last 10 sts, cable6, p4.

Work a further 2 rows straight keeping pattern as before.

Continue thus, working a cable on every 8th row from previous cable, at the same time decreasing alternately in the knit and then in the purl panels, that is: decrease 1 stitch in each of the 15 knit panels on next row, then 1 stitch in each of the 17 purl panels on the following 6th row, omitting the 4 border stitches at each end.

Repeat these 2 decrease rows with 5 rows straight between each and always keeping continuity of cable rib pattern until you have worked 10 decrease rows in all, when 113 sts remain and 3 sts remain in each of the knit and purl panels with the 4 border stitches at each end.

Work a further 4 rows straight.

Next row: P4, * cable3; repeat from * to last 7 sts., cable 3, p. 4.

Work a further 5 rows straight in rib, then work another row cabling across the 3 knit stitches as before. Repeat last 6 rows until work measures 8 inches, then work a further 2 rows in rib.

Cast off.

To work the buttonholes:
With crochet hook, work 3 rows of double crochet down left side of opening, then 3 rows down right side, making 8 small button loops in 3rd row. Fasten off.

Optional fringing:
Cut 2 strands of wool each 3 inches long, fold in half and knot through every alternate stitch of cast-on edge. Now take last 2 strands from one knot together with first 2 from next knot and knot these 4 together to form trellis fringe as shown in photograph. Trim fringe evenly. Sew on buttons. Do not press cables but press crochet edging lightly.

To Make Up

Sew in all ends.
Do not press cables but press crochet edging lightly.
Sew on buttons.

Materials

Original materials called for: 2 ozs. Patons Beehive Fingering 3-ply. **

A pair of No 12 (2¾mm) needles.
[Editor's note: You can use a circular needle here but knit backwards and forwards.]
A cable needle.
A No 13 (2¼mm) crochet hook.
8 small buttons.

Tension

Original yarn knits 34sts x 42 rows to four inches over stocking stitch on No 12 needles.

Substitute yarn knits 27sts x 38 rows to four inches on 2½mm needles.

Size matters

One size. Depth: 8 inches, excluding fringe.

**A word on the wool.

I used a vintage Phildar yarn called Anouchka (80% acrylic 16%, mohair, 4% wool), in a bright red. It knits to a tension of 27sts x 38 rows on 2½mm needles, and I used No 13 (2¼mm) regardless of tension.

Crochet

Double crochet in the UK is equivalent to US single crochet - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions.

The cable over 6 sts is worked as follows:

Cable: Slip next 3 sts. onto a cable needle to back of work; k3, then k3 from cable needle.

Back and front alike:

With No 11 (3mm) needles cast on 84 sts and work 3½ inches in k1, p1 rib. Change to No 10 (3¼ mm) needles and stocking-stitch, increasing 1 stitch at each end of 7th and every following 6th row until there are 102 sts.
Work straight until back measures 12 inches at centre.
With right side facing, shape armholes by decreasing 1 stitch at each end of next and every following knit row until 78 sts remain.
Purl back and leave stitches on a spare needle, or stitch holder.

Work a second identical piece for the front.

Sleeves (make 2):

You have the option of log or short sleeves - work one or other set of intructions.

Long sleeve: With No 11 needles cast on 48 sts and work 3 inches in k1, p1 rib. Change to No 10 needles and stocking-stitch, increasing 1 stitch at each end of 7th and every following 6th row until there are 76 sts.
Work straight until sleeve measures 17 inches.
With right side facing, shape top by decreasing 1 stitch at each end of next and every following knit row until 52 sts remain.
Purl back and leave stitches on spare needle, or stitch holder.

Short sleeve: With No 11 needles cast on 66 sts and work 1 inch in k1, p1 rib. Change to No 10 needles and stocking stitch, increasing 1 stitch at each end of 3rd and every following 4th row until there are 76 sts. Work straight until sleeve measures 4½ inches, then shape top as for long sleeve.

Yoke:

You should now have 2 identical pieces for the back and front, and two identical pieces for the sleeves, all on spare needles or stitch holders.

With right side facing and the set of No 10 needles.....
[Editor's note: The yoke is going to be pulled in by the cable pattern. Sara noticed that the yoke tends to ride up a little in her version, and this may be improved by increasing the needle size for the yoke section. Whatever needle size you chose for the main body, consider going up a size for the yoke.]
arrange stitches thus:-
place the 52 stitches of the left sleeve, and the first 40 stitches of the front on the first needle; the last 48 sts of the front and the 52 sts of the right sleeve on the second needle; and 78 stitches of the back onto the third needle. [260 sts].

[Editor's note: If you are using a circular needle, thread the stitches on in the order: sleeve, front, sleeve, back. Put a stitch marker to mark the beginning/end of the round, as front and back look the same. Also remember that the yoke decreases in size until it becomes the neck opening so you may wish to change between lengths of circular needle and finally move to 4 needles as the round becomes smaller.]

Work in rounds as follows:

1st round: K5, * k7, p2, k17; repeat from * ending last repeat k12 instead of k17.
2nd round: K5, * k6, p4, k16; repeat from * ending last repeat k11 instead of k16.
3rd round: K5, * k5, p6, k15; repeat from * ending last repeat k10.
4th round: K5, * k4, p8, k14; repeat from * ending last repeat k9.
5th round: K5, * k3, p10, k13; repeat from * ending last repeat k8.
6th round: K5, * k2, p12, k12; repeat from * ending last repeat k7.
7th round: K5, * k1, p14, k11; repeat from * ending last repeat k6.
8th round: K5, * p16, k10; repeat from * ending last repeat k5.
9th round: K4, * p18, k8; repeat from * ending last repeat k4.
10th round: K4, * p6, k6, p6, k8; repeat from * ending last repeat k4.
11th round: as 10th round.

12th round: K2tog, k2, * p6, cable, p6, k3, k2tog, k3; repeat from * to last 22sts, p6, cable, p6, k4. [250 sts]
13th round: K3, * p6, k6, p6, k7; repeat from * ending last repeat k4.
14th, 15th, 16th, and 17th rounds: As 13th round.

18th round: K3, * p6, cable, p6, k2, k2tog, k3; repeat from * to last 22sts, p6, cable, p6, k2, k2tog. [240 sts]
19th round: K3, * p6, k6, p6, k6; repeat from * ending last repeat k3.
20th, 21st, 22nd, and 23rd rounds: As 19th round.

24th round: K2tog, k1, * p6, cable, p6, k2, k2tog, k2; repeat from * to last 21sts, p6, cable, p6, k3. [230 sts]
25th round: K2, * p2tog, p4, k6, p4, p2togtbl, k5; repeat from * ending last repeat k3. [210 sts]
26th round: K2, * p5, k6, p5, k5; repeat from * ending last repeat k3.
27th, 28th, and 29th rounds: As 26th round.

30th round: K2, * p5, cable, p5, k2, k2tog, k1; repeat from * to last 19sts, p5, cable, p5, k1, k2tog. [200 sts]
31st round: K2, * p2tog, p3, k6, p3, p2togtbl, k4; repeat from * ending last repeat k2. [180sts]
32nd round: K2, * p4, k6, p4, k4; repeat from * ending last repeat k2.
33rd, 34th, and 35th rounds: As 32nd round.

36th round: K2tog, * p4, cable, p4, k1, k2tog, k1; repeat from * to last 16sts; p4, cable, p4, k2. [170sts]
37th round: K1, * p2tog, p2, k6, p2, p2togtbl, k3; repeat from * ending last repeat k2. [150 sts
38th round: K1, * p3, k6, p3, k3; repeat from * ending last repeat k2.
39th, 40th, and 41st rounds: As 38th round.

42nd round: K1, * p3, cable, p3, k2tog, k1; repeat from * to last 14 sts; p3, cable, p3, k2tog. [140 sts]
43rd round: K1, * p2tog, p1, k6, p1, p2togtbl, k2; repeat from * ending last repeat k1. [120 sts]
44th round: K1, * p2, k6, p2, k2; repeat from * ending last repeat k1.
45th, 46th, and 47th rounds: As 44th round.

48th round: P2tog, * p1, cable, p2, k2tog, p1; repeat from * to last 10sts, pl, cable, p2, k.l. [110 sts]
49th round: * P2tog, k6, p2, p2togtbl, k1; repeat from * to end. [90 sts]
50th round: * P1, k6, p1, k1; repeat from * to end.
51st, 52nd, and 53rd rounds: As 50th round.

Divide stitches onto No 11 needles, 45 across front and 45 across back. Work 7 rows k1, p1 rib across front of neck; cast off in rib. Work back of neck in the same way.

To Make Up

Press parts on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Join side and sleeve seams and right shoulder ribbing.
Sew 2 press-studs on left shoulder. Press seams.

Materials

Original materials called for: 14 ozs. for long sleeves, 11 ozs. for short sleeves of Patons Moorland Double Knitting**.

Example knitted in Twilleys Freedom Spirit DK - 8 x 50g balls - about 900m.

1 pair each of No 11 (3mm), and No 10 (3¼ mm) needles, and a set of 4 No 10 (3¼ mm) needles, or circular needle.[Editor's note: Please see the important notes about the wool used for the modern version, the consequent needle sizes used, and the sizing.]

A cable needle. Two press-fasteners.

Tension

Original yarn knits 24sts x 32 rows to four inches on No 10 needles.

Substitute yarn knits 22sts x 28 rows to four inches on No 8 (4mm) needles.

Size matters

Original sized for bust 33-35 inches; length from top of shoulders 20½ inches; sleeve seam: 17 or 4½ inches.

See "adapting the size".

**A word on the wool.

If you have some vintage Patons Moorland DK - you may like to note that I surmise they used this brand name for more than one version of this wool; I have some Moorland from the 1980s and I believe it is a relatively thick DK, which would be hard to contemplate knitting on No10 needles.

Sara used Twilleys Freedom Spirit DK, (120m per 50g ball), which knits as 22sts x 28 rows to 4ins on 4mm needles.
[Editor's note: This wool is ideal for felting, so be extra careful when washing it.]
If you use a needle size of No 8 (4mm) needles instead of the original needles, it will increase the nominal size of the sweater from 34 to 37 ins. This may be desirable.

See "adapting the size".

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Adapting the size:

The original pattern is for one size: 34-35 inch bust. The sweater is designed to be tightly fitting, and the nominal sweater size is just under 34 ins, so it intends there to be slight negative ease. The original wool and needle sizes indicate a "fine double knitting" wool with a tension of 24sts to 4 inches on 3¼mm (relatively fine) needles.

The sizing is a bit small for an average size these days, so moving to a conventional DK wool (22 sts to 4 ins on 4mm needles) makes a nominal size of about 36½ins, making the sweater suitable for up to a 37-38 ins bust. Also - whatever wool and needle size you opt for - note particularly the suggestion to move to a larger needle size when working the yoke.

If you increase the size by further gauge changes with thicker wool, you will find that the sweater may be less suited to the close fitting styling, and you lose the 50s "look".

Instructions:

(Make two gloves alike)

Cast on 36 stitches, arrange evenly over 3 needles.
Join in a round, and begin fancy rib as follows:

1st round: * K3, p1, k1, p1; repeat from * 6 times to end of round.
Repeat round 1 three more times.

5th round: * Slip1, k2, then pass the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted sts; p1, k1, p1; repeat from * 6 times to end of round. [30sts]
6th round: * K1, yon, k1, p1, k1, p1; repeat from * 6 times to end of round. [36sts]
7th and 8th rounds: as 1st.

Repeat rounds 5 through 8 four times more times.

21st round: as 5th.
22nd round (increase): * K1, yon, k1, p1, yon, k1,p1; repeat from * 6 times to end of round. [42 sts]

23rd round: * K3, p1, k2, p1; repeat from * 6 times to end of round.
24th round: * K3, p1, k2tog, yon, p1; repeat from * 6 times to end of round.
25th round: * Slip1, k2, then pass the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted sts; p1, k2, p1; repeat from * 6 times to end of round. [36sts]
26th round: * K1, yon, k1; p1, yon; slip1, k1, psso; p1; repeat from * 6 times to end of round. [42 sts]
Repeat rounds 23 through 26 three times more times.

39th round: * K3, p1, k2, p1; repeat from * 5 times.
Then: k3, p1, k1. Using waste yarn, knit the last 2 sts of the round.
Slip these 2 sts back onto the left needle and knit them again using working yarn.

40th round: Begin the next round continuing with the waste yarn, and k5. Slip these 5 sts back onto the left needle and knit them again using working yarn. Then finish the round as follows: k1, yon, p1; * k3, p1, k2tog, yon, p1; repeat from * 5 times to end of round. [43sts]

41st round: Slip1, k2, then pass the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted sts; p1, k2tog, k1, p1; * slip1, k2, then pass the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted sts; p1, k2, p1; repeat from * 5 times to end of round. [36sts]

42nd round: * K1, yon, k1; p1, yon; slip1, k1, psso; p1; repeat from * 6 times to end of round. [42 sts]

Repeat rounds 23 through 26 twice more. Cast off 42 sts (not too tightly).

Work the thumb.

Go back to the waste yarn and carefully remove it, placing the resulting live sts on two double-point needles; there will be 7
sts below the opening, that look like normal sts, and aim to get 8 sts above - ensure you pick up all the loops.

Now set off working in a round; starting with the 7 sts below the opening, arrange the sts as follows: Place the first 2 sts on a needle and leave for the end of the round.

Join in the yarn and using another needle, k3, p1, then k2tog (the last of the 7 lower sts and the first of the 8 upper sts), yon, then purl the second stitch from the upper needle. This is "needle one" and has 7 sts.
Using another needle, k1, k2tog, k1. This is "needle two" and has 3 sts.
Using another needle, p1, then k2tog (the last of the 8 upper sts and the first of the two sts you left for the end of the round), p1. This is "needle three" and has 4sts. [14 sts]

1st round: * Slip1, k2, then pass the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted sts; p1, k2, p1; repeat from * once to end of round. [12sts]
2nd round: * K1, yon, k1; p1, yon; slip1, k1, psso; p1; repeat from * once to end of round. [14 sts]
3rd round: * K3, p1, k2, p1; repeat from * once to end of round.
4th round: * K3, p1, k2tog, yon, p1; repeat from * once to end of round.
5th round: as 1st.
6th round: as 2nd.

Cast off 14 thumb sts loosely.

Making up:
Sew in all ends.

Materials

1 x 50g ball Rowan Kid Classic.

Small length of waste yarn in contrasting colour, (something slippery like cotton preferably).

One set of 4 No. 8 (4 mm) needles.

Tension

Kid Classic knits to a tension of 18sts and 24 rows to 4 inches on 6mm needles.

Size matters

Width all round above thumb, 7 ins. To alter the size use larger or smaller needles as required.

Abbreviations

yon: yarn over needle - makes an extra stitch which forms a small pattern hole when knitted on the next row.

psso: pass the slipped stitch over. Effectively you are "knitting 2 together through back loops"
(slip1, k1, psso is the same as ssk or "slip, slip, knit the 2 slipped sts together")

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions

With No. 9 needles, cast on 60 stitches loosely, and arrange over 3 needles.

1st round: * K4, p2; repeat from * to end of round.
2nd-4th rounds: As first round.
5th (cable) round: * C4B, p2; repeat from * to end of round.
6th round: As first round.

These are the six basic pattern rounds.

Repeat these six rounds twice more, (or as many times as you need to lengthen the sock at the ankle), and then the first round once again.
[Editor's note: If you want the sock to be longer in the leg, then add more rows here.]

Divide for heel flap.

Next Row: Knit the first 28 sts of the round on to one needle to work for the heel.

Divide the remaining 32 sts across 2 needles, and leave to work the instep later. If you have worked the pattern correctly there will be a symmetrical set of complete cables across the 32 instep sts, starting and ending with p2.

Return to your heel sts, and turn the work so that you can work back and forth across the heel sts using 2 needles.

Next Row: Slip1 purlwise then purl across the remaining 27 sts. [28 sts].
Next round: * Slip1, k1; repeat from * to end of round.

Repeat the last 2 rows 12 times more.

Turn the heel.

Work short rows as follows:

Next Row: Slip1 purlwise then purl across 15sts, p2tog, p1. Turn
Next Row: Slip1, k5, s1, k1, psso, k1. Turn
Next Row: Slip1 p6, p2tog, p1. Turn
Next Row: Slip1, k7, s1, k1, psso, k1. Turn

Continue working in this way until all the sts have been incorporated [16sts], ending with a knit row, and right side facing.

Continuing to work onto the same needle (needle 1), pick up and knit 15 sts along side of heel.
Slip all the instep sts on to one needle, and using a 2nd needle knit across instep sts, in the cable pattern, starting at the second row.
Using 3rd needle, pick up and knit 15 sts along side of heel.
Knit the first 8 sts from Needle 1, and slip these on to the end of Needle 3. [78 sts].

[Editor's note: I am not one to encourage a sloppy attitude to knitting, but...
When you pick up sts down the side of the heel flap for this design of sock it is not essential that you pick up exactly the number stated - you do not even have to pick up the same number down each side of the flap - I often find that I have one more on one side than the other (this is due to the way I make the heel flaps which we won't dwell on here!). Whatever you pick up, you must decrease to the right number as you do the shape the instep - it's not the number of decreases but the final number of sts that is important.
I would say though, that whatever you do on the first sock, try and remember to repeat it on the second sock - that's best...]

Shape the instep:

1st round: 1st needle: knit to the last 3sts, k2tog, k1.
2nd needle: Knit, following the 6-row cable pattern as set. 3rd needle: K1, slip1, k1, psso, knit to end.
2nd round: Knit.

Repeat these two rounds until 60sts remain (14 on the first needle, 32 on the second needle, 14 on the third needle).

Continue on these sts, (continuing the cable pattern on the upper foot as set), until you have completed 12 cable patterns from the very beginning of the work, or until work measures 2 inches less than the desired foot length.
[Editor's note: If you want the sock to be smaller or larger, alter the length here.]

Shape toe:

Continue in stocking stitch only (no more cables), as follows: knit the sts from Needle 1, then knit the first st from Needle 2 and put it on Needle 1. Knit 30 sts from Needle 2, then place the last st onto Needle 3. Knit across 15 sts on Needle 3.

1st round: 1st needle: knit to the last 3sts, k2tog, k1.
2nd needle: k1, slip1, k1, psso, knit to the last 3sts, k2tog, k1. 3rd needle: K1, slip1, k1, psso, knit to end. [56sts]
2nd round: Knit.

Repeat these 2 rounds until 32 sts remain, ending with 1st round.

Then repeat round 1 twice more [24 sts].

Making up.

Knit the sts from needle one, break the thread leaving a long tail.
Slip the sts from needles 1 and 3 onto one needle.

Graft the two sets of 12 sts together.
[Editor's note: if you have a suitable computer, here is a super video demo of grafting,otherwise use the link above for a picture demo]
Sew in all ends.

Make a second sock to match.

Materials

About 1 x 50g skein (139 metres) Phildar Oxygene, colour 38, Neptune.
[Editor's note: If you lengthen the sock at the ankle you will need more wool.]

One set of 4 No. 9 (3½mm) double- pointed needles.

Tension

23 sts x 30 rows to 4 inches measured over stocking stitch on No 9 (3½mm) needles.

Size matters

The pattern as written should fit a foot of 11 inches in length.

Abbreviations

C4B: "cable 4 back"; slip the next 2sts onto a cable needle and leave at the back of the work, k2, then k2 from cable needle.
This cable is ideal to work using the method without a cable needle.

psso: pass the slipped stitch over. Effectively you are "knitting 2 together through back loops"
(slip1, k1, psso is the same as ssk or "slip, slip, knit the 2 slipped sts together")

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist

Instructions.

This is a raglan cardigan, designed for a man and given in 3 sizes. Main size is given for a 40 inch chest and other 2 sizes are given in brackets.

Pattern:

The twisted rib pattern is worked over 24 rows as follows:

1st Row: S1, k1, * p2, k2; repeat from * to end.
2nd Row: S1, p1, * k2, p2; repeat from * to last 4sts; k2, p1,k1.
3rd Row: as first row
4th Row: as second row
5th Row: as first row
6th Row: as second row
7th Row: S1, k1, * p2, k2tog, yrn; repeat from * to last 4sts; p2, k2.
8th Row: S1, p1, * k2, k1tbl, p1; repeat from * to last 4sts; k2, p1, k1.
9th Row: S1, k1, p1, * k2tog, yrn, p2; repeat from * to last 3sts; k2tog, yfwd, k1.
10th Row: S1, * k1tbl, p1, k2; repeat from * to last st; k1.
11th Row: S1, p1, * k2tog, yrn, p2; repeat from * to last 4sts; k2tog, yrn, p1, k1.
12th Row: S1, k1,* k1tbl, p1, k2; repeat from * to end.
13th Row: S1, p1, * k2, p2; repeat from * to last 4sts; k2, p1, k1.
14th Row: S1, k1,* p2, k2; repeat from * to end.
15th Row: as 13th row
16th Row: as 14th row
17th Row: as 13th row
18th Row: as 14th row
19th Row: S1, p1,* yon, s1, k1, psso, p2; repeat from * to last 4sts; yon, s1, k1, psso, p1, k1.
20th Row: S1, k1, * p1, k1tbl, k2; repeat from ,* to end.
21st Row: S1, p2, * yon, s1, k1, psso, p2; repeat from * to last 3sts; yon, s1, k1 , psso, k1.
22nd Row: S1, p1, * k1tbl, k2, p1; repeat from * to last 4sts; k1tbl, k3.
23rd Row: S1, p3, * yon, s1, k1, psso, p2; repeat from * to last 2sts; yon, s1, k1 , psso.
24th Row: S1, * k1tbl, k2, p1; repeat from * to last st; k1.

Back:

Using No 12 needles, cast on 153 {161 : 169} sts.

1st Row: S1, k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch; k1.
2nd Row: S1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.

Repeat the first and second rows 7 times more, then the first row once.

18th Row: S1, * inc once in the next stitch purlwise; (k1, p1) 3 times; k1 * ;
repeat from * to * 8 times;
inc once in the next stitch purlwise; (k1, p1) 1{3 : 5} times;
inc once in the next stitch knitwise; (p1, k1) 1{3 : 5} times;
repeat from * to * 8 times;
inc once in the next stitch purlwise; (k1, p1) 3 times;
inc once in the next stitch knitwise; p1, k1.
[174 {182 : 190} sts].

Change to No 10 needles.
Now work the 24 rows of the pattern three times, then the first 6 rows again.

Next Row: S1, * k2tog, k7 *; repeat from * to * 8 times; k2tog, k2{6 : 10}; k2tog; k2{6 : 10}; repeat from * to * 8 times; k2tog, k6, k2tog, k2. [153 {161 : 169} sts]

Next Row: S1, purl to the last st, k1.

Continue in st-st until work measures 17 {17 : 18} inches, ending with a purl row.

Shape Armholes:
Cast off 8 sts at beginning of the next 2 rows.

Work 94 {86 : 78} rows decreasing once at each end of the next and every alternate row. [ 43 {59 : 75} sts]
Then work a further 6 {14 : 22} rows decreasing once at each end of every row, until 31 sts remain (on all sizes).
Cast off.

Right Front.

Using No 12 needles cast on 83 {87 : 91} sts.

1st Row: S1, k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch; k1.
2nd Row: S1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.

Repeat the first and second rows 7 times more, then the first row once

18th Row: S1, * inc once in the next stitch purlwise; (k1, p1) 5 times, *;
inc once in the next stitch knitwise; (p1, k1) 5 times;
[inc once in the next stitch purlwise; (k1, p1) 5 {6 : 7} times, k1] twice;
repeat from * to * once;
inc once in the next stitch knitwise; (p1, k1) 4 times;
p1, inc once in the next stitch knitwise, p1, k1.

Slip the last 12 sts of the row on to a stitch holder or safety pin to continue the front border later. Turn and continue knitting the right front on 78 {82 : 86} sts.

Change to No 10 needles, and work the 24 rows of the pattern three times, then the first 6 rows again, as you did for the back.

Next Row: S1, (k2tog, k10) twice; k2tog, k11{13 : 15}; k2tog, k11{13 : 15}; k2tog, k10, k2tog, k9, k2tog, k2.
[71 {75 : 79} sts]

Next Row: S1, purl to the last st, k1.

††

Continue in stocking stitch until work measures the same as the Back
to the armholes, ending with a knit row, and wrong side facing.

Shape Armhole:
Cast off 8 sts purlwise; purl to last st, k1.

Work 82 {82 : 78} rows decreasing once at the front edge on the next and every following 10th row - and at same time decrease once at the armhole edge on the next and every alternate row.
[ 13 {17 : 24} sts]

For the largest 44 inch size, work 4 more rows, decreasing once at the front edge on the 3rd row and at the same time decrease once at the armhole edge on every row. [19 sts]

For the small (40 inch) and medium (42 inch) sizes, work 12 {4} rows decreasing once at the armhole edge only on the next and every alternate row. [7 {15}sts].

Then work a further 4 {12 : 16} rows decreasing once at the armhole edge only on every row. [ 3 {3 : 3} sts]

Next Row: S1, k2tog.
Next Row: K2tog, break off yarn, fasten off.

Left Front:

Using No 12 needles cast on 83 {87 : 91} sts.

1st Row: S1, k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch; k1.
2nd Row: S1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.
Repeat the first and second rows once, then the 1st row again.

6th Row (make buttonhole): S1, (p1, k1) twice, p1; cast off 2 sts; continue in rib as set to end of row.
7th Row: S1, k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last 6 sts; cast on 2 sts over the ones you cast off on the row before, (k1, p1) twice, k2.
8th Row: as second.

Repeat the first and second rows 4 times more.

17th Row: S1, k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last 12 sts. Slip the last 12 sts of the row on to a stitch holder or safety pin to continue the front border later. Turn and continue knitting the left front on 71 {75 : 79} sts.

18th Row: S1, * inc once in the next stitch purlwise; (k1, p1) 5 times, *;
inc once in the next stitch knitwise; (p1, k1) 5 times;
[inc once in the next stitch purlwise; (k1, p1) 5 {6 : 7} times, k1] twice;
repeat from * to * once;
inc once in the next stitch knitwise; (p1, k1) 4 times;
p1, inc once in the next stitch knitwise, p1, k1.

Change to No 10 needles, and work exactly as given for the Right Front until †† is reached.

Continue in stocking stitch until work measures the same as the Back
to the armholes, ending with a purl row, and right side facing.

Shape Armhole:
Cast off 8 sts knitwise; knit to end.

Complete as given for the right front, reversing all shapings.

Sleeves:

Using No 12 needles cast on 63 {63 : 67} sts.

1st Row: S1, k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch; k1.
2nd Row: S1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.
Repeat the first and second rows 10 times.

Change to No 10 needles, and proceed in stocking stitch, increasing one stitch at each end of the 5th and every following 6th row until there are 109 {109 : 113} sts on the needle.

Continue without further shaping until the work measures 19 inches, ending with right side facing for the next row.

Shape Top:
Cast off 8 sts at beginning of the next 2 rows.

Work 44 {44 : 36} rows, decreasing 1 st at each end of the next and every folowing 4th row. [ 71 {71 : 79} sts]

Then work 56 {56 : 64} rows, decreasing 1 st at each end of the next and every alternate row. [ 15 {15 : 15} sts]

Cast off.

Making up:

Press pieces gently under a damp cloth according to the instructions on the yarn ball-band.
Sew up side and sleeve seams.
Placing seam to seam, sew decreased edges of the sleeve to the decreased edges of the body.

Right front border:

Place the 12 sts from the welt of the right front (kept on a safety pin) back on No 12 needles. With wrong side facing, rejoin the yarn and commence the rib as follows:

Next Row: Inc in the next stitch purlwise, k1; (p1, k1) 5 times.

Next Row: S1, k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch; k1.
Next Row: S1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.

Repeat the last two rows over the 13sts until border is of sufficient
length to go up front, across sleeve top and halfway across back of neck. Cast off in rib.

Left front border:

Place the 12 sts from the welt of the left front (kept on a safety pin) back on No 12 needles. With right side facing, rejoin the yarn and commence the rib as follows:
Next Row: Inc in the next stitch knitwise; (p1, k1) 5 times; k1.

Next Row: S1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.
Next Row: S1, k1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to last stitch; k1.

Repeat the last two rows over the 13sts placing buttonholes at desired intervals as follows:
[Editor's note: I placed the buttonholes with about 28 rows between the pairs of buttonhole rows. This was about 3 inches apart. The topmost of the 5 buttons was about 4inches below the first front decreasing.]

Next Row (wrong side of work): S1, (p1, k1) twice, p1; cast off 2 sts; (p1, k1) twice.
Next Row (right side of work): S1, k1, (p1, k1) twice; cast on 2 sts over the ones you cast off on the row before, (p1, k1) twice, k1.

Continue in rib until border is of sufficient length to go up front, across sleeve top and halfway across back of neck. Cast off in rib.

Completion:

Sew ends of borders together. Sew borders to front edges. Sew on buttons to correspond with button holes.

Materials

4 ply: 9 : 10 : 11 50g balls [Editor's note: I used ony 7 balls of Luxe - see "Word on the Wool" below]

1 pair of No 10 (3¼mm) and 1 pair of No 12 (2¾mm) knitting needles.

5 buttons.

Tension

30 stitches to 4 inches over stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit 40:42:44 inch chest; actual size 41:43:45 inches.
Sleeve seam length: 19 inches.

Abbreviations

inc: increase in the next stitch by knitting (or purling) twice into it.

yrn/yon/yfwd: yarn round needle / yarn over needle / yarn forward. Makes an extra stitch which forms a small pattern hole when knitted on the next row.

k1tbl: knit through back loop of the stitch. This has the effect of twisting the yrn or yon stitch that you made, making it tighter.

s1: slip one stitch.

psso: pass the slipped stitch over. Effectively you are "knitting 2 together through back loops"
(s1, k1, psso is the same as ssk or "slip, slip, knit the 2 slipped sts together")

A Word
on the Wool.

I used a pale grey shade of Phildar Luxe, (85% acrilic, 15% wool) - very practical and soft, but now available in a lamentably small colour range. Luxe knits to a tension of 32 sts and 41 rows to 4 inches.
It is a fine synthetic at 217yards / 201metres per 50g ball, and I used only 7 balls.

I used plastic buttons (to go with the practical theme) from my collection.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions.

The body of the bolero is worked in fancy rib over 2 rows as follows:

1st Row: Knit.
2nd Row: (K1, p1) repeated across row.
[Editor's note: Keep the rib aligned as you increase and decrease to get the shape.]

Back

Cast on 84 stitches and work in ribbed pattern as above.
K keeping the continuity of the rib carefully, cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of every row until 44 sts remain.

Now cast off 1 stitch at beginning of every row till 16 sts remain.

Work 20 rows straight.

Continue to work in pattern but increase 1 st at each end of the next and every following 3rd row until there are 26 sts on the needle.
Cast off.

Side Pieces

Using three needles, pick up and knit 110 stitches up right side of back piece, then cast on 122 stitches. Arrange the sts as follows:
1st needle: 92 stitches; 2nd needle: 70 stitches; 3rd needle: 70 stitches.

Join into a round and work 20 rounds in pattern.

Next Round: * k2, k2tog; repeat from * to end.
Work 15 more rounds in pattern, beginning with a rib row.
Next Round: k2tog all round, casting off firmly at the same time.

Work second side to correspond.

Border

With five needles, using 2 strands of wool together, and right side facing, pick up and knit 42 stitches across lower edge of back, 60 stitches round right side, 13 across back of neck and 60 stitches round left side.

1st Round: Knit.
2nd Round: Purl.
3rd Round: Knit.
4th Round: Purl.
5th Round: * K1 winding wool round needle 5 times; repeat from * to end.
6th Round: Purl, dropping all the stitches wound round needle.
7th Round: Knit.
8th Round: Purl, increasing once in every 4th stitch.
9th Round: Knit.
10th Round: * P1 winding wool round needle 5 times; repeat from * to end.
11th Round: Knit, dropping all the stitches wound round needle. 12th Round: Purl.
13th Round: Knit.

Repeat 12th and 13th rounds, then 12th round again.
Now, with crochet hook, fasten off by working 1dc into each stitch as it comes off the needle, with 1 chain loosely in between.

Sleeves

Starting at the top with two needles and double wool, cast on 36 stitches and knit 4 rows garter stitch (every row knitted).

†
5th Row: * K1 winding wool round needle 5 times; repeat from * to end.
6th Row: Cast on 3, knit to end, dropping all loop stitches.
7th Row: Cast on 3, knit to end.
8th Row: Knit.

Repeat from † once, then 5th row again.

Next Row: Cast on 6 stitches, knit to end, dropping all loop stitches.
Next Row: Cast on 6 stitches, knit to end.
Next Row: Knit.

†
Next Row: * K1 winding wool round needle 5 times; repeat from * to end.
Next Row: K2tog, knit to the last 2 sts, k2tog.
Next Row: Knit.
Next Row: K2tog, knit to the last 2 sts, k2tog.

Repeat from † once, and then again omitting decreasings.
Knit 2 rows.
Cast off.

Making up

Press very lightly only.
Join sleeve seams and sew in sleeves.
Press back border round neck to form roll collar .

Materials

Original quoted 5ozs Beehive Non-Shrink Baby Wool 3ply.

Five No 7 (4½mm) double-pointed needles, or one pair of needles and a circular needle.

No 8 (4mm) crochet hook.

[Alternative 9 (½ oz) balls Patons Fuzzy-Wuzzy Angora and five No 8 (4mm) needles]

Tension

28 stitches to 4 inches over pattern rib in back; 40 stitches to 4 inches over pattern rib in side pieces.

Size matters

To fit size 32-36 inch bust; length from top of shoulder to lower edge, 16 inches; sleeve seam, 4½ inches.

Abbreviations

k2tog: knit 2 sts together (decrease).

dc: double crochet remembering that this is UK notation, and in the US is referred to as single crochet.

ch: chain

A Word
on the Wool.

I have not made this up in a modern equivalent yarn so have no comments to offer from experience. From the tension, and the possible substitution of the angora yarn, it seems this would knit up with a modern 4 ply rather than 3 ply. Generally I refute the claim that old wools were thicker than modern ones - the bottom line is that in times past people patiently knitted much finer wools than we like today. However I have noticed that in the 1940s patterns there is no doubt that some of the 3 plys have tensions of 7 sts to the inch rather than the 8 or 9 that you expect with a 3 ply. I plan to knit this using handspun (hence not completed yet....)

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions.

The pattern works the instep and the sole separately on two needles to enable you to work the fair isle pattern across the instep only. It is not possible to achieve this in the round. However, you join the two together as you knit.

Using No 12 needles with main shade (M), cast on 59 sts loosely and join in a round. Work 4 rounds in moss (also known as seed) stitch [every row k1 p1].

Next Round (increasing): K3; (m1, k8) 7 times. [66 sts]

Cuff border:

Change to No 11 needles and join in contrast (C) and work wave pattern border by repeating the 6 stitch pattern 10 times:

1st Round: * k3 contrast (C), k3 navy (N); repeat from * to end.
2nd Round: * k1(N), k3(C), k1(N), k1(C) ; repeat from * to end.
3rd Round: * k2(N), k3(C), k1N; repeat from * to end.
4th Round: Knit in N.
5th Round (decreasing): K31; k2tog; ssk2tog; k31. [64 sts]

Now continue with cuff diamond pattern, repeating the 8 stitch pattern 8 times across one round:

6th Round: * k1(C), k2(N), k1(C), k2(N), k2(C); repeat from * to end.
7th Round: * k2(N), k1(C), k1(N), k1(C), k2(N), k1(C); repeat from * to end.
8th Round: * k1(N), k1(C), k3(N), k1(C), k2(N); repeat from * to end.
9th Round: * k1(C), k2(N), k1(C), k2(N), k1(C), k1(N) ; repeat from * to end.
10th Round: * k2(N), k3(C), k2(N), k1(C); repeat from * to end.
11th Round: As 9th.
12th Round: As 8th.
13th Round: As 7th.
14th Round: As 6th.

Now break off C and continue with N only; change to No 12 needles and work 7 rounds knitting.

Then turn the work so you are working the rounds in the other direction. This reverses the work to allow the cuff to fold over with the right side visible.

Work 8 more rounds knitting; at the end of the first round knit into the stitch below the first stitch of the round and knit it together with the last stitch of the round to avoid a small hole in the work.
Editor's note: Even if you don't understand how to do this, any tiny hole will not be visible as it is hidden under the cuff.

Join in C, working main diamond pattern, repeating the 8 stitch pattern 8 times:

1st Round: * k1(N), k2(C), k1(N), k2(C), k2(N), ; repeat from * to end.
2nd Round: * k2(C), k1(N), k1(C), k1(N), k2(C), k1(N); repeat from * to end.
3rd Round: * k1(C), k1(N), k3(C), k1(N), k2(C); repeat from * to end.
4th Round: * k1(N), k2(C), k1(N), k2(C), k1(N), k1(C); repeat from * to end.
5th Round: * k2(C), k3(N), k2(C), k1(N); repeat from * to end.
6th Round: As 4th.
7th Round: As 3rd.
8th Round: As 2nd.

These 8 rows form the pattern.
Work rows 1-5 inclusive again.

Continue with N only and divide for the heel, however do not break off C.

Divide for heel

Next Row: Using navy wool only, knit the next 31 stitches on to one needle to work for the heel.

Divide the remaining 33 sts across 2 needles, and leave to work the instep later. If you have worked the pattern correctly there will be a symmetrical set of complete patterns across the 33 instep sts. Make sure that it looks like this (you will have just completed row 5, the middle row in the picture):

[ Editor's note: If it doesn't look like this... you can compensate by knitting more or fewer sts for the heel flap until you get to the pattern boundary. Then when you purl back on the row below, follow the instructions as set to get your 30 sts. You should have your instep sts set correctly as above. If you still haven't then there is likely a mistake in your fair isle pattern.]

Return to your heel sts, and turn the work so that you can work back and forth across the heel sts using 2 needles.

Next Row: Purl back across 15 sts, p2 together, purl remaining 14 sts. [30 sts].

Heel flap

Next Row: * Slip 1, knit 1; repeat from * across all 30 sts.
Next Row: Slip the first stitch, p29.
Next Row: * Slip 1, knit 1; repeat from * across all 30 sts.

Repeat last 2 rows 13 times more.

Turn heel

Turn the heel by working short rows:

Next Row: Slip the first stitch, p16, p2tog, p1; turn.
Next Row: Slip1, k5, ssk, k1; turn.
Next Row: Slip 1, p6, p2tog, p1; turn.
Next Row: Slip 1, k7, ssk, k1; turn.

Continue in this way until all the sts have been incorporated in the row, ending with a knit row. [18 sts]

Turn. Purl one row.
Do not turn work, do not break wool.

Pick up and purl 16 sts down side of heel flap to bring the navy wool back to work the patterned instep. Leave these 16 sts along with the 18 heel sts, on a spare needle or stitch holder.

Upper foot panel

Take 33 sts left on needles 1 and 2, and slip them on to one needle.

Continue to use the navy yarn and pick up the contrast C, which should be waiting for you at the beginning of a purl side instep row (row 6 of the pattern). Begin working back and forth across these 33 sts, keeping the continuity of the pattern starting with a purl row and working from row 6 of the chart where you left off; work alternate rows in knit and purl.
Work the first 6 rows without slipping the first stitch and after that, slip the first stitch of every row.

Continue for 5½ inches or 4 inches less than overall desired foot length, ending with a knit row.
[ Editor's note: This is where you can adjust the length of the foot. Each pattern is approximately 1 inch, and it is nicer if you can end your work after one complete pattern, which will be to the nearest half-inch, after knitting row 5 or row 1 of the pattern. If your feet have not grown to a multiple of half inches you can still work to complete patterns, and compensate by adding a couple of rows when you work the toe.]

Break contrast yarn, and continue in navy only.

Turn the work and purl across 15 sts; p2tog; p16.

Continue with wrong side facing, using another No 12 needle, pick up and purl about 27sts from the slipped sts down the right side of the upper foot panel, and from the edges of the first 5 rows you knitted.
[ Editor's note: This is 27 sts, or more, or less, depending on how you adjusted the foot length. Also - when you pick up these sts you may want to work the sts through their back loops to keep them tight.]

Mark the stitch, by placing a piece of waste wool between the sts at this point. The waste wool should be about 6 inches long in an easily distinguished contrasting colour, and smooth, (for example cotton), as it will be woven between rows, and later pulled out.

Using the same No 12 working needle, pick up and purl 17 sts from side of heel flap, then purl 9 sts from the heel.

Using another No 12 working needle, purl the 9 remaining heel sts, and then purl the 16 sts you already picked up from the other side of the heel flap.

Mark the stitch with a piece of waste wool, as before.

Continuing with this needle, purl along the left side of the upper foot panel, picking up 27 sts from the edges of the first 6 rows you knitted and from the slipped edge sts.

The work is arranged on 3 needles. The picture shows the working needle in the process of knitting across the sole, and the waste wool markers in white.
[ Editor's note: This is where you need the needles to be long. I managed with 8 inch dpns but they really need to be longer to ensure you don't lose sts off the ends. While you are working and joining the sole, it might be prudent to put end stops on the two working needles.

Purl across the 32 sts at the top of the panel. Then using one of the spare needles, purl down the right side of the panel again, as far as the stitch marker.]
The marker is trapped between sts in the row below; pass the waste wool between the sts again before continuing, so that it will be trapped between the rows and continue to mark the sts for the sole section.

Do not turn the work.

Sole

Using the No 12 working needles, you are going to knit back and forth across the sole (between the markers) in stocking stitch, knitting the last stitch from each row together with one stitch from the upper foot panel.

1st Row: (Wrong side facing) Slip1, p24 from first needle, (16 sts up side of heel and 9 sts from heel flap), then purl 24 sts from second needle, up to 1 stitch before the stitch marker. Purl the last stitch of the sole section together with the first of the instep sts. [50sts between the markers]
Turn.
Continue to work sole on 3 needles, one working needle and the sts arranged evenly over the other 2.

2nd Row: (Right side facing) Pass the waste wool marker between the sts. Slip 1, ssk2tog; knit to the last 3 sts before the marker; k2tog, ssk the last stitch of the row together with the next instep stitch as before. [48sts between the markers] Turn.
3rd Row: Pass the waste wool marker between the sts. Slip 1, purl to the last stitch; purl together the last of the sole sts with the first instep stitch as before. [48sts between the markers] Turn.

Repeat 2nd and 3rd rows, shaping the sole by decreasing 2 sts on the knit rows, until 28 sole sts remain between the markers.

Then continue without shaping as follows (continuing to weave in the markers as before):

Next Row: Slip 1, purl to the last stitch before the marker; purl together the last of the sole sts with the first instep stitch as before.
Next Row: Slip 1, knit to the last st before the marker; ssk the last stitch of the row together with the next instep stitch as before. Turn.

Repeat the last 2 rows until all the sts from the sides of the upper foot have been joined to the sole. Do not join any of the sole sts to the 32 sts left on the 4th needle at the end of the panel.
End with a knit row. Do not turn.

Toe

Now you continue to work the sole and upper foot sts together in a round, as follows:

With right side facing, using your working needle (needle 1), knit across 32 sts from the upper foot. Knit the next 14 sts from the sole on to the next needle (needle 2), and knit the final 14 sts from the sole on to the next needle (needle 3).
Knit the first stitch from the upper foot panel on needle 1 and slip it on to the end of needle 3. Slip the last stitch from the upper foot panel on to the beginning of needle 2.

You have 60 sts arranged with 30 sts on needle 1, and 15 sts on each off needles 2 and 3.

Continue to work in rounds as follows:

[ Editor's note: This is where you can adjust the length of the foot if your feet have not grown to a multiple of half inches. Work a couple of extra plain rounds here before starting the decreasing.]

1st Round: Needle 1: k1, ssk2tog; knit to the last 3 sts; k2tog, k1.
Needle 2: k1, ssk2tog, knit to end.
Needle 3: knit to the last 3 sts; k2tog, k1. [56 sts]
2nd Round: Knit.

Repeat rounds 1 and 2 until 24 sts remain.
[ Editor's note: You can decrease further if you have pointed toes.]

Slip the sts from needles 1 and 2 on to one needle and graft together with the sts on needle 3.

Making up

Sew in all ends. Fold down cuff.

Materials

4 ply: 2 ozs navy, 1 oz contrast colour.

One set each of 4 double pointed needles (dpns) size 11 (3mm) and 12 (2¾mm).
The smaller (12) needles need to be 9 or more inches in length.

Tension

30 stitches and 32 rows to 4 inches over pattern.

Size matters

Length from top to bottom of heel, top turned down, 5 inches; length of foot 9 inches (adjustable).

Abbreviations

N is main shade (navy).
C is contrast (pink).

m1: make one by picking up the loop between sts and knitting into the back of it

ssk/ssk2tog: (slip, slip, knit) - or (slip1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over). Effectively you are "knitting 2 together through back loops".

A Word
on the Wool.

The recommended wool was Patons Purple Heather Fingering, (which in this era was a pure wool 4 ply), in navy for the main shade and white for the contrast.

Example used Sunbeam St Ives Sock wool in navy and Jaeger Baby Merino 4 ply in pink (50g balls, each about 200yds) - almost all of one ball of the main, and about half of the contrast.
Both wools are now extinct I think but substitute 4ply sock wools are fairly easy to find.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions.

This pattern is worked in several sections including intarsia techniques, (to insert the vertical colour for the cable stripes); and jaquard (to make the dots).

For the cables, and edge stitches, do not strand yarn across wrong side of work, but use separate balls: this will be 2 bobbins for the Navy cables and 2 bobbins for the Citron edge stitches. Twist the colours on wrong side where they meet to avoid a hole.

Use your main ball of wool for the centre section in Citron (main shade), again twisting it where it meets the navy cable bobbin.
When working the row of coloured dots join in and break off the navy at the beginning and end of the row.

Here is a picture of the wrong side of the work:

[ Editor's note: Yes this does mean you have to sew in all those ends ]    

Back:

With No 10 needles and contrast colour, cast on 70 [74, 78, 86, 90, 94, 102, 106, 114] sts and work in K2, P2 rib for 3 [3, 4, 4, 5, 6, 6, 6, 6] cm, (rows on right side having K2) at each end.

End with right side facing for next row and increase 1 st at end of last row (71 [75, 79, 87, 91, 95, 103, 107, 115] sts).
Change to No 8 needles and work in cables and colour pattern as follows:
1st Row: (Right side facing) K3 in main shade (M) from bobbin, k6 in contrast (C) from bobbin, knit in main shade ball to last 9 sts; k6 in C from bobbin, k3 in M from bobbin.
2nd Row: K3 in M, p6 in C; change to main shade ball M and k3, purl to last 12 sts; k3; p6 in C, k3, in M.
3rd Row: (Make row of dots) K3 in M, k6 in C; then for centre section:
k3 in M; *p3 in M, put M yarn to back of work; join in C and, using your separate strand of contrast, k1 in C, then bring M forward again for your next purl stitch; repeat from * (stranding the unused yarn colour across the back of the work) to last 15 sts, break off separate strand of contrast C; p3 in M, k3 in M, k6 in C, K3 in M.
4th Row: as second
5th Row: as first
6th Row: as second
7th Row: (Make row of dots and cable) K3 in M, C6F in C; then for centre section:
k3 in M; *p1 in M, put M yarn to back of work; join in C and, using your separate strand of contrast, k1 in C, then bring M forward again p2 in M; repeat from * (stranding the unused yarn colour across the back of the work as before) to last 15 sts; p1 in M, put M yarn to back of work, k1 in C, bring M forward again p1 in M; k3 in M, C6B in C, K3 in M.
8th Row: as second

These 8 rows form the pattern.

Continue in pattern until back measures 34 [37, 41, 43, 46, 48, 49, 51, 51] cm, ending with right side facing for next row.
Shape shoulders by casting off 11 [12, 13, 9, 10, 12, 11, 12, 13] sts at beg of next 2 rows, then cast off 12 [12,12, 10,10,10,12, 12, 13] sts at beg of next 2 [2, 2, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4] rows.
Leave remaining 25 [27, 29, 29, 31, 31, 33, 35, 37] sts on a spare needle.

Front:

Work as for back until front measures 26 [29, 33, 35, 37, 39, 39, 41,41] cm, ending with right side facing for next row.

Keeping continuity of the pattern, divide for neck as follows:

Pattern 33 [35, 37, 41, 43, 45, 49, 51, 55] sts, k2tog, turn and leave remaining sts on a spare needle.

Continue on these 34 [36, 38, 42, 44, 46, 50, 52, 56] sts for first side, decrease 1 stitch at neck edge on every row until 30 [30, 30, 34, 38, 40, 40, 42, 44 ] sts remain, then on every alt row until 23 [24, 25, 29, 30, 32, 35, 36, 39] sts remain.
Work straight until Front matches Back to start of shoulder shaping, ending with right side facing for next row.
Cast off 11 [12, 13, 9, 10, 12, 11, 12, 13] sts at beg of next row.
Work 1 row.

1st, 2nd, and 3rd sizes:
Cast off remaining 12 sts.

4th, 5th, 6th, 7th, 8th and 9th sizes:
Cast off [10, 10, 10, 12, 12, 13]sts at the beginning of the next and following alternate row.

All sizes:
With right side facing, rejoin yarn to remaining sts, cast off centre st, k2tog, pattern to end.
Work to match first side, reversing shapings.

To Make Up

Do not press.

Join right shoulder seam.

Left Neck Border:

With right side facing, using No 10 needles and Contrast, knit up 30 [30, 30, 34, 38, 38, 42, 42, 42] sts down left side of neck and work 7 [7,9, 9, 9, 9, 11, 11, 11] rows in p2, k2 rib, rows on wrong side having a p2 at each end. Cast off evenly in rib.

Right Neck Border:

With right side facing, using No 10 needles and Contrast, starting at centre front, knit up 30 [30, 30, 34, 38, 38, 42, 42, 42] sts to shoulder. Knit across 25 [27, 29, 29, 31, 31, 33, 35, 37] sts from back of neck increasing 3 [1, 3, 3, 1, 1, 3, 1, 3] sts evenly (58 [58, 62, 66, 70, 70, 78, 78, 82] sts).
Work 7 [7, 9, 9, 9, 9, 11, 11, 11] rows in P2, K2 rib, rows on wrong side having P2 at each end. Cast off evenly in rib.

Join left shoulder, then sew border in position, placing right over left.
Join side seams leaving 14 [15, 16, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 24] cm down from shoulder free for armhole.
[ Editor's note: This is how I have sewn the side seams, but I have noticed that some of the latest designs sew the side seams only at the welt, leaving most of the side open, with a view to wearing a top like this layered over a sleeveless summer dress.]

Press seams.

Sew on button at neck.
[ Editor's note: The button is decorative only and may be omitted if desired.]

Materials

Pure wool double knitting 50g balls: 2 [3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5] in main shade, and, 1 [1, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3] in contrast.
A pair each of No 8 and 10 needles; (4mm and 3¼mm).

Cable needle.

1 button.

Tension

22 sts x 30 rows to four inches on 4mm needles in stocking stitch.

Size matters

To fit chest/bust 24 [26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38,40] inches; length from top of shoulders 13½ [14½, 16, 17, 18, 19, 19½, 20, 20] inches.
The size I knitted is highlighted in bold red, and is close fitting on me (UK size 12).

A Word
on the Wool.

The recommended wool was a pure wool double knitting, yardage 120m per 50g ball.

I used Rowan Wool Cotton to make it more summery, but the yardage on wool cotton is somewhat less at 113m per 50g ball.

Main shade is 901 Citron, and, contrast is 909 French Navy.

Abbreviations:

C6F: slip next 3 sts on cable needle and leave at front of work, k3, then k3 from cable needle.
C6B: slip next 3 sts on cable needle and leave at back of work, k3 then k3 from cable needle.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions:

The body of the cardigan is knitted in one piece. There are options for a plain welt as well as the frilled version - perhaps to better suit a boy.

Frilled welt:
Cast on 308 sts.

1st row: * P2, k7; repeat from *to last 2 sts; p2.
2nd row: K2, *p7, k2; repeat from *to end.
3rd row: *P2, slip1, k1, pass the slipped st over, k3, k2tog; repeat from *to last 2 sts; p2.
4th row: K2, *p5, k2; repeat from *to end.
5th row: *P2, slip1, k1, pass the slipped st over, k1, k2tog; repeat from *to last 2 sts; p2.
6th row: K2, *p3, k2; repeat from *to end.
7th row: *P2, slip2 together, k1, pass two slipped st over together; repeat from *to last 2 sts; p2.
8th row: P4, *m1, p5; repeat from *to end. [124 sts]
[m1 = make one by picking up a loop between the sts and purling into the back of it.]

Alternative plain ribbed welt:
Cast on 124 sts and work 6 rows in k1, p1 rib.

9th row: K31, place marker; k62, place marker; k31.

Duckling border:
Continue in stocking stitch.
Work the 15 rows from the chart, working left to right on the wrong side rows, and working right to left on the right side rows.

Starting with wrong side facing, set the 31 stitch pattern across the row as follows:
[Editor's note: Weave the unused colour in across the back as you knit. This tends to make the knitting rather tight so make sure you knit loosely - or - use needles one size larger while you knit these 15 rows.].

Row 1: *p1 in blue, p29 in white, p1 in blue*; p0; repeat from * to * twice; p0; repeat from * to *.

Row 15: as row 1.
Break contrast yarn.

Next row: (right side facing) Knit in main shade.
Next row: (wrong side facing) Purl in main shade.

Continue with main shade only stocking stitch until work measures 6 inches, including the frill, ending with a purl row and right side facing for next row.
[Editor's note: This is approximately 22 rows in main shade after you have finished the pattern rows.]

Divide for fronts and back:
Next row: (right side facing) S1, k1, psso, (also known as ssk), knit 29st; turn. Continue on these 30 sts to make the right front, leaving remaining sts on a stitch holder.

Next row: Purl.
Next row: Knit
Next row: Purl.
Next row: S1, k1, psso, (also known as ssk), knit to end.

Repeat the last 4 rows, decreasing at front edge only until 21 sts remain. Continue without shaping until armhole edge measures 5 inches, ending with a purl row.
[Editor's note: This is approximately 40 rows for the armhole.]
Break yarn, leaving sts on a holder for grafting.

Left front:
With right side facing, slip 31sts from the holder for the left front on to a working needle, rejoin the yarn at the armhole edge, and knit 1 row. Leave the centre 62 sts on the holder to pick up later for the back.
Next row: (wrong side facing) P2tog, purl 29; turn.

Next row: Knit.
Next row: Purl
Next row: Knit.
Next row: P2tog, purl to end.

Repeat the last 4 rows, decreasing at front edge only until 21 sts remain. Complete to match the right front, ending with a knit row.

Back:
With right side facing, rejoin the yarn to the remaining 62 sts on the holder, and knit across all sts.

Work straight in stocking stitch until back matches fronts at armhole edge, ending with a purl row.

Next row: K21, cast off 20, k21.
Break yarn, leaving two lots of shoulder sts on a holder for grafting.

Join shoulders.
Graft front and back shoulder sts together.

Sleeves (both alike):
Cast on 83 sts, and work frilled welt as follows:

1st row: * P2, k7; repeat from *to last 2 sts; p2.
2nd row: K2, *p7, k2; repeat from *to end.
3rd row: *P2, slip1, k1, pass the slipped st over, k3, k2tog; repeat from *to last 2 sts; p2.
4th row: K2, *p5, k2; repeat from *to end.
5th row: *P2, slip1, k1, pass the slipped st over, k1, k2tog; repeat from *to last 2 sts; p2.
6th row: K2, *p3, k2; repeat from *to end.
7th row: *P2, slip2 together, k1, pass two slipped st over together; repeat from *to last 2 sts; p2.
8th row: P1, *m1, p3; repeat from *to last stitch, m1, p1. [39 sts]
[m1 = make one by picking up a loop between the sts and purling into the back of it.]

Alternative plain ribbed welt:
Cast on 39 sts and work 6 rows in k1, p1 rib.

Now join in contrast and work 3 rows as follows.
9th row: K1 in main shade, k2 contrast; * k2 main shade; k2 contrast; repeat from * to end, (stringing the unused yarns as before across the back of the work). Break main shade yarn.
10th row: Purl across row in contrast.
11th row: Rejoin main shade and work as row 9. Break contrast yarn.
12th row: Purl across row in main shade.

Continuing in main shade only, increase one stitch at each end of the next and every following 4th row, until there are 61sts. Work straight until sleeve is 8 inches long (including the frill), or to required length.

Cast off loosely, using one size larger needle.

Work second sleeve the same.

Button border:
With right side facing, using the No 9 (3½mm) circular needle as before, commencing at the right front above the frill, pick up and knit 29 sts evenly along straight edge, 29 sts evenly along shaped edge, 20 sts across back neck, then 29 sts evenly along shaped edge of left front, and finally 29 sts evenly along straight edge of left front, ending at top of frill. [136 stitches].

[Editor's note: My method for picking up sts evenly is to pick up 2 sts for every 3 row ends. I use a double pointed needle and slip it into all the alternate row ends - the ones that tend to stick out more as little bumps. Then using my working needle, I knit into 2 bumps from the dpn and then pick up an extra stitch in between the bumps.
The number of stitches you pick up will depend on how many rows you knitted in the body, so if it's not quite 136 it does not matter; you can still follow the instructions below provided you end up with an even number of stitches .]

Next row: Slip the first stitch;* k1; p1; repeat from * to last st; k1.
Next row: Slip the first stitch; k1, p1, * k2tog; yarn over needle; p1; (k1, p1) 3 times repeat from * twice more, then k2tog; yarn over needle; p1, to make the 4th buttonhole.
Continue in rib as set to end of row.
Next row: Slip the first stitch;* k1; p1; repeat from * to last st; k1.

Work one more row in rib, then cast off loosely in rib, using a larger size needle if required.

Making up:
Fold sleeves in half lengthwise, then sew into armholes placing fold at grafted shoulder seam. Join sleeve seams.
Sew in all ends.

Press lightly with a damp cloth.
Sew 4 buttons in position to match buttonholes.

Materials

3 x 50g balls Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino (125m per 50g ball), in main shade (colour shown Lavender 605).
1 ball contrast.

One circular No 9 (3½mm) needle.

Tension

24sts and 32 rows to 4 inches on No 9 (3½mm) needles in stocking stitch.

Size matters

Insructions for 6-12 months size.
Actual chest 22 inches; full length 11 inches; sleeve 8 inches (adjustable).

A word on the wool

Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino is a lovely yarn, (55% merino wool, 33% microfibre, 12% cashmere).
I like the weight of this wool, which is a fine double knitting. It combines the best of optimizing a quick-knit tension with a light weight result, as well as being durable.
Perfect for kids (and adults!).

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions:

Begin working the RIGHT GLOVE:

Thread 12 beads on to the yarn. Cast on 48 stitches, using "backward loop method" as follows: loop 2, slide a bead up next to the loops; loop 4, slide next bead into place; slide next bead into place; and so on to the last bead and then end with loop 2 [48 loops].

Knit one row.
Arrange the stitches over 3 needles (16 on each) and join in a round.

Begin fancy rib as follows:

1st round: * P1, k2, p1, k2, p2; repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat round 1 four more times.

6th (cable) round: * P1, CB5 (cable over 5 sts "back" by slipping the next 3 sts on to a cable needle and leaving at the back of the work; k2, then (p1, k2) from cable needle), p2; repeat from * to end of round.
7th round: as round 1.
8th (bead) round: * P1, k2; hook bead and slip this beaded st, passing the yarn behind, and pulling it firmly as you go into the next st; k2; p2; repeat from * to end of round.
9th round: * P1, k5, p2; repeat from * to end of round.
10th and 11th rounds: as round 1.

Repeat rounds 6 to 11 twice more and then round 6 again.
Now work 3 rounds as round 1 to complete the fancy rib.

Thumb gusset

1st round: K24, p1, k2, p1, k20.
2nd round: as round 1.
3rd round: K24, p1, m1, (make a stitch by picking up the horizontal loop between lying before the next stitch and working into the back of it), k2, m1,p1, k20.
4th and 5th rounds: K24, p1, k4, p1, k20.
6th round: K1, m1, k23, p1, m1, k4, m1,p1, k19, m1, k1.
7th and 8th rounds: K25, p1, k6, p1, k21.
9th round: K25, p1, m1, k6, m1,p1, k21.
10th and 11th rounds: K24, p1, k8, p1, k21.
12th round: K25, p1, m1, k8, m1,p1, k21.
13th and 14th rounds: K25, p1, k10, p1, k21.
15th round: K1, m1, k24, p1, m1, k10, m1,p1, k20, m1, k1.
16th and 17th rounds: K26, p1, k12, p1, k22.
18th round: K26, p1, m1, k12, m1,p1, k22.
19th and 20th rounds: K26, p1, k14, p1, k22.
21st round: K26, p1, m1, k14, m1,p1, k22.
22nd and 23rd round: K26, p1, k16, p1, k22.
24th round: K1, m1, k25, p1, m1, k16, m1,p1, k21, m1, k1. .
25th and 26th rounds: K27, p1, k18, p1, k23. [70 sts]

Now set aside the thumb stitches and continue with the main glove - at the same time work the first row of the pattern from the chart, setting the position of the beaded hearts as follows, repeating the 9 pattern sts 3 times:

Row 1: K4; hook bead and slip this beaded st, passing the yarn behind, and pulling it firmly as you go into the next st; (k8, hook bead) twice; k5; slip the next 18 sts on to a safety pin; cast on 2 sts, k24 to complete the round. [54 sts]

Continue straight, working from the chart for the 9 rows, and completing the three hearts.

Row 10: K1, m1, k52, m1, k1. [56 sts]

Work 4 rows straight.

Divide for fingers

Next round (forefinger): Knit the first 20 sts of the round and place on a stitch holder; place the last 20sts of the round on a second stitch holder; Knit 16; cast on 2 sts. [18 sts]
Distribute these 18sts evenly across 3 needles, and join in a round.
Knit 5 rounds on these 18 sts.
Cast off purlwise.

Next round (middle finger): Slip the last 7sts on the first stitch holder (the ones nearest to the forefinger) onto a needle and knit them; pick up and knit 2 from the cast on sts at the base of the forefinger; slip the first 7sts on the second stitch holder (the ones nearest to the forefinger) onto a needle and knit them; cast on 2 sts. [18 sts].
Distribute these 18sts evenly across 3 needles, and join in a round.
Knit 5 rounds on these 18 sts.
Cast off purlwise.

Next round (third finger): Work and complete as for middle finger.

Next round (little finger): Pick up 2 sts at the base third finger; slip the remaining 6 sts on the second stitch holder onto a needle and knit them; slip the remaining 6 sts on the first stitch holder onto a needle and knit them. [14sts]
Knit 4 rounds on these 14 sts.
Cast off purlwise.

Thumb:
Next round: Transfer the18 thumb sts from the safety pin back on the needles and knit them, then pick up 2 sts from the sts cast on to continue the main glove. Arrange these 20 sts on 3 needles.
Knit 5 rounds on these 20 sts.
Cast off purlwise.

LEFT GLOVE:

Thread 12 beads on to the yarn, cast on 48 stitches, and knit one row, as for right glove.
Arrange the stitches over 3 needles (16 on each) and join in a round.

Begin fancy rib as follows:

1st round: * P2, k2, p1, k2, p1; repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat round 1 four more times.

6th (cable) round: * P2, CF5 (cable over 5 sts "forward" by slipping the next 2sts on to a cable needle and leaving at the front of the work; k2, p1, then k2 from cable needle), p1; repeat from * to end of round.
7th round: as round 1.
8th (bead) round: * P2, k2; hook bead and slip this beaded st, passing the yarn behind, and pulling it firmly as you go into the next st; k2; p1; repeat from * to end of round.
9th round: * P2, k5, p1; repeat from * to end of round.
10th and 11th rounds: as round 1.

Repeat rounds 6 to 11 twice more and then round 6 again.
Now work 3 rounds as round 1 to complete the fancy rib.

Thumb gusset

You work the thumb gusset in the same way as you did for the right glove, but set the position of the thumb differently as follows:

1st round: K20, p1, k2, p1, k24.
2nd round: as round 1.
3rd round: K20, p1, m1, (make a stitch by picking up the horizontal loop between lying before the next stitch and working into the back of it), k2, m1,p1, k24.
4th and 5th rounds: K24, p1, k4, p1, k20.

Continue in this way as for right glove, but following the stitch layout as set until you reach row 25.

25th and 26th rounds: K23, p1, k18, p1, k27. [70 sts]

Now set aside the thumb stitches and continue with the main glove - at the same time work the first row of the pattern from the chart, setting the position of the beaded hearts as follows, repeating the 9 pattern sts 3 times:

Row 1: K24; slip the next 18 sts on to a safety pin; cast on 2 sts; k5; hook bead and slip this beaded st, passing the yarn behind, and pulling it firmly as you go into the next st; (k8, hook bead) twice; k4. [54 sts]

Once you have set the position of the thumb and the bead hearts, you can work the rest of the left glove exactly as for the right glove.

Making up:
Sew in all ends.

Materials

Example shown is knitted in 1 x 50g ball Sunbeam St Ives 4 ply in cream 3103.

One set of 4 No. 12 (2½ mm) needles. A tiny crochet hook for placing the beads.

66 beads size 6/0
[Sanctuary Beads]

Tension

Approx. 32sts and 44 rows to 4 inches on No 12 needles.

Size matters

Width all round above thumb, 7 ins. To alter the size use larger or smaller needles as required.
The cables on the wrist tend to pull in quite tightly without the same flexibility as rib. If you are concerned about this, you might use larger needles to complete the wrist welt, or even put in an extra stitch between each cable (cast on 54) just for the welt and then decrease back to 48 evenly across the last row of the cables. If you do this your pattern repeat will be
{P1, k2, p1, k2, p3}.
And you will need to place the beads on the cast-on row with 6 or 3 loops between beads instead of 4, and you may need a few extra beads to do this.

A word on the wool

The wool I used was from my store room.
If I purchased the wool new, then I would probably go for Rowan 4 ply soft, perhaps in colour 376 "Nippy".

Beading

For those of you who think "Less is More" you might prefer to work a single bead heart, positioned on row 20, with the first bead on the 7th st from the edge.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Cast on loop method

Loop the working yarn and place it on needle backward so that it doesn’t unwind; repeat this movement to form the sts.

Hooking Beads.

This method means you don't have to pre-string the beads on your yarn - I think it is good for placing a few beads amid a lot of knitting, when you don't want to carry just a few beads across miles of yarn before you use them, and you also don't want to break your thread.

This information appeared in Knitty.com. (Spring 2006 edition) in an article by Sivia Harding.

Instructions: Oct 1975

Begin working the RIGHT GLOVE:

Using contrast colour, cast on 48 stitches; purl one row, and join into a round.

Change to main colour and knit one row.
Work in k2, p2 rib until work measures about 2 inches from start.

Thumb gusset

1st round: K24, p1, k2, p1, k20.
2nd round: as round 1.
3rd round: K24, p1, m1, (make a stitch by picking up the horizontal loop between lying before the next stitch and working into the back of it), k2, m1,p1, k20.
4th and 5th rounds: K24, p1, k4, p1, k20.
6th round: K1, m1, k23, p1, m1, k4, m1,p1, k19, m1, k1.
7th and 8th rounds: K25, p1, k6, p1, k21.
9th round: K25, p1, m1, k6, m1,p1, k21.
10th and 11th rounds: K24, p1, k8, p1, k21.
12th round: K25, p1, m1, k8, m1,p1, k21.
13th and 14th rounds: K25, p1, k10, p1, k21.
15th round: K1, m1, k24, p1, m1, k10, m1,p1, k20, m1, k1.
16th and 17th rounds: K26, p1, k12, p1, k22.
18th round: K26, p1, m1, k12, m1,p1, k22.
19th and 20th rounds: K26, p1, k14, p1, k22.
21st round: K26, p1, m1, k14, m1,p1, k22.
22nd and 23rd round: K26, p1, k16, p1, k22.
24th round: K1, m1, k25, p1, m1, k16, m1,p1, k21, m1, k1. .
25th and 26th rounds: K27, p1, k18, p1, k23. [70 sts]

Now set aside the thumb stitches and continue with the main glove as follows:
Next round: K28; slip the next 18 sts on to a safety pin; cast on 2 sts, k24 to complete the round. [54 sts]

Work 2 rounds straight.

Cut 6 lengths of contrast wool, about 28 inches in length, and 6 of main shade; do not use bobbins, just the lengths of wool.
Work the first row of the pattern from the chart, as follows, joining in the lengths of wool as required, repeating the 9 pattern sts 6 times:
[Editor's note: You are now going to split the knitting and work back and forth in knit and purl rows. This is in order to insert the hearts nicely using the intarsia method. I tried the Fair Isle technique but the red contrast colour showed through the white, and did not look attractive. This method does mean a little more sewing in of ends but I think the result is worth it.
You will join the round up as you reach the end of each row.]

Row 1: K4 from the ball of main shade, k1 using first strand of contrast yarn, k8 using first strand of main shade, k1 contrast using second strand of contrast, k8 using second strand of main shade, and so on the the last 4 sts; k3 in last strand of main shade, slip the last st. Still using the last working needle, pick up the st below the first st of the round and knit into it, then pass the slipped st over this st. Turn the work.

[Editor's note: Use the pop-up from the above picture for more detailed photos of this technique.]

Row 2: P3 in main shade, p3 in contrast, p6 in main shade, and so on; use the intarsia method and twist the two yarns together when you change colour. Continue in this way until you get to the last stitch in the row, and slip this stitch. Still using the first working needle, pick up the st below the last st of the round and purl into it, then pass the slipped st over this st. Turn the work.
Continue until all 6 pattern rows have been worked from the chart.

Now go back to working in the round, and continue in main shade only, using the main ball of wool.
Next round: K1, m1; knit to last 2 sts, m1, k1. Work 3 more rounds straight.

Divide for fingers

Next round (forefinger): Knit the first 20 sts of the round and place on a stitch holder; place the last 20sts of the round on a second stitch holder; Knit 16; cast on 2 sts. [18 sts]
Distribute these 18sts evenly across 3 needles, and join in a round.
Knit 5 rounds on these 18 sts.
Cast off purlwise.

Next round (middle finger): Slip the last 7sts on the first stitch holder (the ones nearest to the forefinger) onto a needle and knit them; pick up and knit 2 from the cast on sts at the base of the forefinger; slip the first 7sts on the second stitch holder (the ones nearest to the forefinger) onto a needle and knit them; cast on 2 sts. [18 sts].
Distribute these 18 sts evenly across 3 needles, and join in a round.
Knit 5 rounds on these 18 sts.
Cast off purlwise.

Next round (third finger): Work and complete as for middle finger.

Next round (little finger): Pick up 2 sts at the base third finger; slip the remaining 6 sts on the second stitch holder onto a needle and knit them; slip the remaining 6 sts on the first stitch holder onto a needle and knit them. [14sts]
Distribute the 14 sts evenly across 3 needles, and work 4 rounds.
Cast off purlwise.

Thumb:
Next round: Transfer the18 thumb sts from the safety pin back on the needles and knit them, then pick up 2 sts from the sts cast on to continue the main glove. Arrange these 20 sts on 3 needles joining in a round.
Knit 5 rounds on these 20 sts.
Cast off purlwise.

LEFT GLOVE:
Work as for the right glove until you reach the working for the thumb gusset then work as follows:

1st round: K20, p1, k2, p1, k24.
2nd round: as round 1.
3rd round: K20, p1, m1, (make a stitch by picking up the horizontal loop between lying before the next stitch and working into the back of it), k2, m1,p1, k24.
4th and 5th rounds: K24, p1, k4, p1, k20.

Continue in this way as for right glove, but following the stitch layout as set until you reach row 25.

25th and 26th rounds: K23, p1, k18, p1, k27. [70 sts]

Now set aside the thumb stitches and continue with the main glove as follows:
Next round: K24; slip the next 18 sts on to a safety pin; cast on 2 sts, k28 to complete the round. [54 sts]

Once you have set the position of the thumb, you can work the rest of the left glove exactly as for the right glove.

Making up:
Sew in all ends.

Materials

Example shown is knitted in 1 x 50g ball 4 ply in main shade, and small amount of contast colour.

One set of 4 No. 12 (2½ mm) needles.

Tension

Approx. 32sts and 44 rows to 4 inches on No 12 needles.

Size matters

Width all round above thumb, 7 ins. To alter the size use larger or smaller needles as required.

A word on the wool

The wool I used was from my store room.
If I purchased the wool new, then I would probably try Rowan 4 ply soft.
You need so little of the contrast it hardly seems worth buying a whole ball.

Intarsia

Here is a nice little video clip about intarsia knitting. Don't be put off by her continental knitting method.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Intarsia.

Text and Pictures taken from Ethknits "How to knit" page.

Hold the working yarn in your right hand and the yarn to be woven in your left.

Changing on a knit row: Knit with yarn A until you want to change. Pull yarn A over to the left and wrap yarn B across the back of A as you knit the next stitch.

Changing on a purl row: Purl with yarn A until you want to change. Pull yarn A over to left and wrap yarn B under A as you bring it across to purl the next stitch.

You can see from the purl row picture that the edge resembles a sideways knitted row as on each row you cross the yarns over. This way you should get no holes. Don't worry if you see holes where the yarn is loose in some places. When you finish your work you will have lots of ends to sew in and you can pull these tight and sew up any holes that still appear.

Instructions.

The pattern is worked back and forth on circular needles, in 5 stitch repeats over four basic rows:

1st Row: Wrong side facing, {p3, k2}.
2nd Row: {K1, yfwd, slip1, k1, psso, p2}
3rd Row: As first.
4th Row: {K2tog, yfwd, k1, p2}

Body:

Note: The back and fronts are knitted as one piece up to the armholes.

With smaller circular needles cast on {100/110}120 stitches and work 6 rows in garter stitch, noting that the first row is a wrong side row.

Next Row: (Wrong side facing, 1st pattern row), knit 4 and slip this 4 sts on to a safety pin or stitch holder. Change to larger circular needles and commence pattern thus: k2, *p3,k2; repeat from * to the last 4 sts. Turn, slipping the last 4 sts onto a safety pin, without knitting them. [{92/102}112 pattern sts]
[Editor's note: these 4 sts are to be knitted separately later on the smaller needles and then sewn on to form the front borders.]

Next Row: (2nd pattern row), p2, *k1, yfwd, slip1, k1, psso, p2; repeat from * to end.

Next Row: (3rd pattern row), as first pattern row.

Next Row: (4th pattern row), p2, *k2tog, yfwd, k1, p2; repeat from * to end.

Continue in pattern for 10 inches (or desired length), ending with a 4th row pattern, and wrong side facing to begin the next row.
[Editor's note: I wanted my top a little longer and knitted 12½ inches here, which was 11 four-row pattern repeats in my version.]
Change back to smaller circular needles and knit 1 row plain, (garter stitch).

†† Leave the main work on the circular needles to one side now, still with wrong side facing - the row you have just knitted is not completed until after you make the front borders.

Front Borders:

At this point you need to go back to the 4sts you left on safety pins on each side of the work, to make the front borders.

Using the pair of smaller needles, and working each set of 4sts separately, rejoin the wool and continue to knit the borders; it is important you join the wool and start knitting from the correct side of each border to continue in the right sequence for garter stitch.

This means that, provided you have followed the instructions exactly as above, for both borders, you need to join the wool at the edge which will later be sewn to the main body.
So for the right front start working on the 4sts from the wrong side, with the main body to your right, every row knitted - (the right front border is on the left when the wrong side of the work is facing you).
And for the left front start working on the 4sts from the right side, with the main body again to your right, every row knitted - (the left front border is on the left when the right side of the work is facing you).

Work each border in garter stitch until, when very slightly stretched, the border fits the length of the main body that you have just knitted, finishing the left border on a wrong side row, and the right border on a right side row. For both borders the yarn end will be at the edge next to the main body. Break the yarn.
The borders should be about half an inch* shorter than the main body so that they will fit when very slightly stretched.
*[Editor's note: half an inch is about 2 rows with this gauge of wool. The right border should be relatively slightly shorter than the left.]

Now return to your main work, on the circular needle. With wrong side facing, take up your last row of plain knitting (see the marker above ††) and complete the row by knitting the 4 sts of the right front border - make sure the border is not twisted. [{96/106}116sts].

Turn the work (right side facing) and knit across all {96/106}116 sts and then complete the row by knitting the 4 sts of the left front border - make sure the border is not twisted. [{100/110}120sts].

Now divide for front and back, with wrong side facing, knit the first {25/29}32 sts (includes your extra 4 sts at front border) and place these sts on a stitch holder, to make the left front, later.

Continuing without turning, cast on 3 sts using the working yarn, knit these 3 sts, knit {46/52}56 sts cast on 3 sts. Leave the remaining 32 sts on a stitch holder, to make the right front, later. [{52/58}62 sts].
Turn and commence working back.

Back:

With right side facing, work straight in garter stitch (every row plain) for 8 inches (or the required length for the arm hole), ending with right side facing.
[Editor's note: I worked approximately 42 rows].

Shape shoulders by casting off {3/3}3 sts at the beginning of the next 4 rows, {3/4}4 sts at the beginning of the following 2 rows, {4/4}5 sts at the beginning of the following 2 rows,and {4/5}5 sts at the beginning of the following 2 rows, and leave the remaining {18/20}22 sts on a stitch holder.

Left front:

With right side facing return to the left front, slipping the {25/29}32 sts you left on the stitch holder back on to a left hand working needle. Rejoin the wool at the armhole edge to start your next row.

[Editor's note: it is worth double checking here that:

• you are working on the left front,
• you have the right side facing,
• you are ready to start knitting at the armhole edge, and,
• if you start a knit row that this is in keeping with the garter stitch pattern.

If you have completed the steps as written, this should be how it works out.]

Cast on 3 extra sts with the working wool; knit across these 3 sts followed by the {25/29}32. [{28/32}35 sts]. Continue to work in garter stitch until 8 rows less than on back have been worked to the start of the shoulder shaping, ending at the armhole edge with right side facing to commence the next row.
[Editor's note: I worked approximately 34 rows].

**
To shape the neck, knit to the last {8/9}10 sts; turn and place these {8/9}10 sts on a safety pin or stitch holder. Decrease 1 st at neck edge on every row, until {17/19}20 sts remain.
Work a few rows straight until front matches back to shoulder shaping, ending at the armhole edge, with right side facing.

Shape shoulder by casting off {3/3}3 sts at the beginning of the next and following alternate row, {3/4}4 sts at the beginning of the following alternate row, {4/4}5 sts at the beginning of the following alternate row, then cast off the remaining {4/5}5 sts.
**

Right front:

With wrong side facing return to the right front, slipping the {25/29}32 sts you left on the stitch holder back on to a left hand working needle. Rejoin the wool at the armhole edge to start your next row.

[Editor's note: it is worth double checking here that:

• you are working on the right front,
• you have the wrong side facing,
• you are ready to start knitting at the armhole edge, and,
• if you start a knit row that this is in keeping with the garter stitch pattern.

If you have completed the steps as written, this should be how it works out.]

Cast on 3 extra sts with the working wool; knit across these 3 sts followed by the {25/29}32 sts, [{28/32}35 sts].

Commence working in garter stitch and make buttonholes on the following 6th and 28th (wrong side) rows as follows:

Buttonhole row 1: (wrong side), knit to the last 6 sts, cast off 2, knit to end.
Buttonhole row 2: (right side), k4, cast on 2 over the cast off sts from previous row, knit to end.

Continue to work in garter stitch until 8 rows less than on back have been worked to the armhole edge, ending at the armhole edge with wrong side facing to commence the next row.
[Editor's note: I worked approximately 34 rows].

Work to complete the right front exactly as the left from ** to **.

Neck Border:

With right side facing and smaller needles, starting at the top of the right front border, k{8/9}10 sts from stitch holder, pick up and k9 sts up right side of neck, k{18/20}22 sts from back neck, pick up and k9 sts down left side of neck, then k{8/9}10 sts from stitch holder. [{52/56}60 sts].
Work 4 rows plain in garter stitch; cast off (from wrong side).

To Make Up

Press very lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth. Join shoulder seams, using a flat seam, (or by grafting, working from the wrong side and making a purl ridge on the right side).
Sew front borders neatly in place using a flat seam, and sew in all ends.
Sew 2 buttons in place to match the position of the buttonholes.

Materials

About 7 x 100g balls of a chunky or "big" wool that knits to the required tension on 7½mm needles.

No 2 (7mm), and No 1 (7½mm) circular needles.
A pair of No 2 (7mm) needles.

Two 1½ inch buttons.

Tension

11sts x 16 rows to four inches measured over stocking stitch on 7½mm needles.

Size matters

I made the main size shown in black text, which is a slightly large on me (UK size 12-14, maximum size 38 inches). The original pattern was multi-sized, so I have included {2 smaller size options}, in red ink with curly brackets, as shown.

They are sized to fit {34/36}38 inches, and actual sizes more like {35/38} 42 inches.

Length from top of shoulder in my version is approximately 21 inches.

See "adapting the size".

A word on the wool.

I used a pure wool Aran knitted double throughout, and this was about 450m as if knitted with a single strand of bulky wool.

Original knitted in Patons Pablo.

Abbreviations:

yfwd: yarn forward - bring the yarn to the front of the work and when you knit the following stitch, you will have created an extra stitch, in a way that makes a decorative eyelet hole. "Yarn forward" or "yarn over needle" is often used in conjunction with knitting 2 sts together (so you avoid increasing the overall number of sts) in knitted lace patterns.

psso: pass the slipped stitch over - "s1, k1, psso" or "slip, slip, knit" ("ssk") is a method of knitting 2 sts together but into the backs of the sts rather than the usual "k2tog" which knits into the fronts. When decreasing by knitting 2 sts together, the resulting stitch "points" either to the right, (k2tog) or to the left (s1, k1, psso). They are used in combination, for example, in lace knitting, or raglan sleeve decreasing, to create symmetrical decreases.

garter stitch: the simplest stitch pattern of all - every row is knittted, (when worked back and forth on two needles), and the back and the front of the work look the same. It makes a fabric that stretches vertically.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

I have checked and double checked, that I have written all the "right" and "wrong side" instructions correctly - despite this, I remain concerned that an error may still have crept in. If you have any doubts at all, please contact me as above.

Adapting the size:

Altering the size is fairly simple, as you are knitting a big rectangle, with the pattern being a 5 stitch repeat. Working to the required gauge, means that every addition of 5 sts gives you almost 2 inches extra room. Once you get to divide the work, you change to working garter stitch (no pattern), and can work it out so that half the sts go to make the back, leaving a quarter each for the two fronts. If you do not have stitches divisible exactly by four you can put the extra ones into the back, and incorporate them into the back neck.

Instructions.

The overall pattern is four basic rows:

1st Row: Right side facing, purl.
2nd Row: Knit.
3rd Row: Knit.
4th Row: Purl.

These 4 rows form the ridged pattern.

Back:

With larger needles cast on 117 sts. and work 52 rows in pattern as given above. With right side facing, shape sides by increasing one stitch at each end of next and every following 6th row until there are 153 sts.

Work straight until back measures 11 inches at centre.
With right side facing, shape arm-holes by casting off 6 sts at beginning of next 2 rows, then k2tog at each end of every row until 127 sts remain.

Work straight until back measures l8¾ inches, then with right side facing, shape shoulders by casting off 10 sts at beginning of next 8 rows.
Cast off remaining sts.

Right Front:

With larger needles cast on 82 sts and work in pattern as for back,
shaping cross-over flap by increasing one stitch at beginning of first and following 9 alternate rows [92 sts].

Work 12 rows straight in pattern.

With wrong side facing, decrease one stitch at end of next and following 9 alternate rows [82 sts].
Next Row: Right side facing, cast off 22, knit to end.
Next Row: In pattern.

With right side facing, continue in pattern, sloping front edge and shaping side edge as follows:
Next Row: p2tog, pattern to last stitch, increase in last stitch.

Continue in pattern, sloping front edge by decreasing one stitch at beginning of every following l0th row.
At the same time increase one stitch at side edge at end of every following 6th row, 17 times more; then, keep side edge straight until this edge matches back to armhole.

With wrong side facing, continue sloping front edge on every l0th row as before, and at the same time, shape armhole by casting off 6 sts at beginning of next row, then k2 tog at this edge on next 7 rows.

Now keep armhole edge straight and continue sloping front edge on every l0th row as before until 40 sts remain.
Work straight in pattern until front measures 18¾ inches.

With wrong side facing, shape shoulder by casting off 10 sts at beginning of next and following 3 alternate tows, armhole edge.

Left Front:

With larger needles cast on 60 sts. and work 52 rows in pattern.
Next Row: Increase in first stitch; pattern to last 2 sts; p2tog.
Finish to correspond with right front, reversing shapings.

Armhole borders:

Join shoulder seams.
With right side facing and smaller needles, pick up and knit 180 sts. round armhole.
Next Row: Knit.
Next Row: Purl.
Next Row: Knit.
Next Two Rows: k2, p2 rib.
Cast off in rib.

Front Borders:

With right side facing and smaller circular needle, pick up and knit 172 sts from top of flap to centre back of neck.
Continue and pick up and knit 212 sts round rest of neck and down left front to lower edge. [384 sts].

Work 5 border rows as for armhole borders.
Cast off loosely in rib.

To Make Up

Press parts lightly on wrong side under a damp cloth. Join side seams. Press seams. Fasten with pin or brooch as shown in photograph.

Materials

10 x 25g balls
Rowan Yorkshire Tweed 4 ply**,
100% pure wool. ; 110m/120 yards per ball.

1 pair each of No 11 (3mm) needles, and one long No 12 (2¾mm) circular needle.

Original knitted in a 3ply wool on numbers 14, and 13 (2mm and 2¼mm) needles.

Kilt pin to fasten.

Tension

Yarn knits 28sts x 40 rows to four inches on No 11 needles.

The original tension on thinner wool is 9 sts to the inch.

Note: Do not stretch pattern when
measuring length.

Size matters

Original sized for bust 33-34 inches; length from top of shoulders 19 inches.
This version in a slightly thicker yarn to fit 38-40 inch bust as shown in photo.

See "adapting the size".

**A word on the wool.

I used a Rowan Tweed 4ply, which is thicker than the original wool and made the item larger overall. The actual yarn I used is no longer available but you could choose Scottish Tweed 4ply instead.

Original: Paton's Beehive Fingering 3 ply in Lipstick Red.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Adapting the size:

Knitting in 4-ply produces a bigger size than the original but I carefully checked my tension, experimented with needle sizes, and did the arithmetic. Changing from 9st per inch to 7st per inch makes a big change from a 34 inch bust to 42. However the wrap over style offers some flexibility, and it is easy to add or subtract a few sts throughout the pattern if you need to, or even alter the waist size that you start with, and do fewer increases up to the armhole, if you feel up to it.

This style is meant to be wrapped as tightly as you like to wear it, and seems to look flattering on a range of figure types.

I wanted to make the wrap for myself, I liked the style and tried on this one before sending it off to Alison. However, the 4ply tweed made up too big for me (even with my own ample bosom!). I purchased some 2 ply on-line - fine pure wool in a cone, intended for machine knitting - so one day when I feel like working with lots of tiny stitches, I might get round to it.... (It's a lovely red - "lipstick red" ...)

Instructions (work 2 alike).

Cast on 36 (40;44;48) stitches loosely; divide over 3 needles and join in a round.

Work 35 rounds in k2, p2 rib (or required length).

Next Round: K1, make 1 by picking up bar between sts and knitting into the back of it; knit to last st; make 1, k1. [38 (42;46;50) sts]

Knit 5 rounds straight.

Divide for heel

Next Round: K9 (10;11;12), and then slip the last 10 sts of the round onto the other end of the same needle - these 19 (21;23;25) sts are for the heel. Divide the remaining sts between two needles, and leave for the instep.

Commence Heel

1st Row: Slip 1 purlwise, purl to end.

2nd Row: Slip 1 knitwise. * K1, keeping yarn at back of work, slip 1 purlwise; repeat from * to last 2 sts; k2.

Repeat these 2 rows 8 (9;10;11) times more, then the first row again.

Turn Heel

1st Row: K13 (14;15;16) sts, slip 1, k1, psso (pass the slipped stitch over), turn.

2nd Row: Slip 1, p7, p2tog, turn.

3rd Row: Slip 1, k7, slip 1, k1, psso, turn.

Repeat the 2nd and 3rd rows 3 (4;5;6) times more, then the 2nd row once.

K5, thus completing the heel. 4 sts remain unworked on the left-hand needle.

Using spare needle, knit 4 heel sts, pick up and knit 10 (12;14;16) sts along side of heel. Slip all instep sts on to one needle, and using 2nd needle knit across instep sts. Using 3rd needle, pick up and knit 10 (12;14;16) sts along side of heel, then knit 5 heel sts. [48 (54;60;66) sts].

Shape instep:

1st round: Knit.

2nd round: 1st needle: knit to the last 3sts, k2tog, k1.
2nd needle: Knit. 3rd needle: K1, slip1, k1, psso knit to end.

Repeat these two rounds until 38 (42;46;50) sts remain.

Continue on these sts until work measures 4¼(5;5¾;6½) inches, or desired length, from where sts were knitted up at the heel.

Shape Toe:

1st round: 1st needle: knit to the last 3sts, k2tog, k1.
2nd needle: K1, slip1, k1, psso knit to the last 3sts, k2tog, k1.
3rd needle: K1, slip1, k1, psso knit to end.

2nd round: Knit.

Repeat these 2 rounds until 18 sts remain.

Making Up

Knit sts from 1st needle on to end of 3rd needle.
Graft sts together. Sew in ends. Press.

Materials

2 x 50g balls Rowan Wool Cotton , shade 930, "Riviera".

One set of 4 number 9 (3¾mm) needles.

Tension

24st and 32 rows to four inches on No 9 needles.

Size matters

Length of foot approximately 7½(8½;9½;10½) inches (adjustable).

A word on the wool.

Wool Cotton is possibly my favourite Rowan yarn; a 50/50 blend of soft Merino wool and cotton. I am not sure how well it will stand up to wear and tear in a sock, but the cotton should improve durability.
However, my sister reports that although they were fine (soft and lovely) while riding, they "felt like walking on a string bag" - which I have noticed myself with other handknit cotton socks and probably these are worse being larger gauge. So - either wear a thin cotton inner sock, or stick with conventional DK sock wool.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions.

Instructions are for 2 versions - one plain and one with striped brim.
Both crowns are worked the same.

Crown
Begin at centre crown. With number 11 hook, make 4 chain, join in a ring with slip stitch. Work 6 dc through centre of ring.
In all following rounds, work through the back loop only of each dc to get a ridged effect, and mark the start of each round with coloured thread to check increasings.
[Editor's note: You just weave a piece of coloured thread between the last and first sts of each round such that you can just pull it out when you have finished.]

1st Round: * 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end.
2nd Round: * 1 dc in 1 dc, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [18 dc]
3rd Round: * (1 dc in 1 dc) twice, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [24 dc]
4th Round: As 3rd round. [32 dc]

5th Round: * (1 dc in 1 dc) three times, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [40 dc]
6th Round: As 5th round. [50 dc]

7th Round: * (1 dc in 1 dc) four times, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [60 dc]
8th Round: * (1 dc in 1 dc) five times, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [70 dc]
9th Round: * (1 dc in 1 dc) six times, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [80 dc]
10th Round: * (1 dc in 1 dc) seven times, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [90 dc]
11th Round: * (1 dc in 1 dc) eight times, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [100 dc]

12th Round: * (1 dc in 1 dc) fourteen times, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to last 10 dc; (1 dc in 1 dc) ten times. [106 dc]
13th Round: * (1 dc in 1 dc) fourteen times, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to last dc; 1 dc in 1 dc. [113 dc]
14th Round: * (1 dc in 1 dc) fifteen times, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to last dc; 1 dc in 1 dc. [120 dc]
15th Round: * (1 dc in 1 dc) nineteen times, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [126 dc]
16th Round: * (1 dc in 1 dc) twenty times, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end. [132 dc]
17th Round: * (1 dc in 1 dc) twenty times, 2 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to last 6 dc; (1 dc in 1 dc) six times. [138 dc]
18th Round: * 1 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end.

19th-34th Round: As 18th round.

This completes the crown.

Striped Brim

With number 11 hook, and white yarn, make 23 chain, turn.

Miss 1 ch 1 dc in each of 22 ch.
Next Row: * 1 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end.

††

Join in contrast.
Next Row: Miss 1 dc, * 1 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to last dc, 2 dc in last dc.
Next Row: * 1 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end.Join in white.
Next Row: Miss 1 dc, * 1 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to last dc, 2 dc in last dc.
Next Row: * 1 dc in 1 dc; repeat from * to end.
††

Continue repeating from †† to †† until strip fits all round the lower edge of the crown. Do not stretch this strip but allow it to fit comfortably. End with 2 rows of contrast colour. Fasten off.

Finishing:
Fasten off the crown section.
Join short ends of striped brim. Pin in position round edge of crown, right side of brim to right side of crown. Oversew neatly with matching cotton; fold brim in half, and slip stitch to edge of crown on wrong side.
Sew in ends.

Plain Brim

This is worked with the yarn doubled.
Join a second strand of yarn in with the crown section, and using a number 10 hook, work 9 rounds of dc, but always working through both front and back loops of each dc in the row below.
Finish off with a row of slip stitches, but take care not to do this too tightly or the brim will be too small.

Sew in ends and optionally embroider 5 rows of beads around the crown, as shown in the photograph.
[Editor's note: I omitted the beads. You can use any free format style here that you like - for example a collection of small buttons.]

Materials

Plain: 2 x 50g ball Phildar Phil Crochet, in white, (100% cotton, 201yards).
Optional assortment of coloured glass beads.

Striped: 1 x 50g ball
in main shade, (07 Veronese), with 1 x 50g ball of contrast (white).

3 balls (2 in white) made both hat versions.

Nos. 11 (3mm) and 10 (3¼mm) crochet hooks.

Crochet abbreviations:

ch = chain
dc = double crochet

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet, and so on - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Tension

7 dc to an inch. Check the tension and your head measurement carefully; the original was made in angora which is more stretchy than pure cotton.
Note: these are UK crochet instructions - to work a double crochet: insert hook in next stitch, draw loop through, wool over hook, and draw through both loops.

Size matters

To fit "an average head". However, the hat size can vary quite a lot according to your tension.

A word on the wool.

Original specified 2 x ½oz balls of Patons Fuzzy Wuzzy Angora.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions.

The basic pattern for most of the top is two basic rows:

1st Round: * k2tog; k2; yarn forward; k1; yarn forward; k2; k2tog through back loops; repeat from *
2nd Round: Knit if right side facing; purl if wrong side facing.

[Editor's note: If you are knitting in the round, the alternate rounds are knitted; if you are knitting back and front on 2 needles, for example, when you divide at the armholes, then the second row is purl.]

Main body:

The back and front are knitted together in the round.

Using a No 11 (3mm) circular needle, cast on 198 stitches.
Place stitch markers to mark the beginning of the round and at the half way mark (99 sts).
Work 4 inches in k2, p2 rib.

Change to a No 10 (3¼mmm) needle, and work in pattern as given above, for an inch. Change to No 9 (3¾mm) needles and continue in pattern for another inch, then to No 8 (4mm) needles and carry on with these until work measures 13 inches from commencement, ending with a plain knit row (2nd round of pattern), but cast off the last 8 sts of the round
[Editor's note: This is about 33 eyelet rows after the rib.]

Shape armhole:

Divide front and back and work each side separately as follows:

Cast off the first 8 sts of the round, then, with one stitch on the right hand needle, commence the pattern row, and work 9 pattern repeats; k1.

Cast off the next 16 sts; then, with one stitch on the right hand needle, commence the pattern row, and work 9 pattern repeats; k1.

You should have 83 sts to work for the back and front.

Back:

Turn the work and purl back across 83sts.

Continue working back and forth across these 83 sts in pattern as set, starting and ending each row, with one plain knitted stitch. Work 2 inches (about 6 more eyelet rows), ending with a purl row.
[Editor's note: This is about 39 eyelet rows after the rib.]

Here shape the neck.

Next Row: k1, * k2tog, k2, wool forward, k1, wool forward, k2, k2tog * ; put the next 63 stitches on to a spare needle; join in a second ball of wool, repeat from * to * once, k1. Continue on the latter 10 stitches till work measures 19½ inches from commencement. Cast off 9 stitches from armhole end.
[Editor's note: Or you can finish on row 1 of the pattern and leave the sts on a holder so you can graft the shoulders together, with a plain grafting stitch.]

Finish off the opposite shoulder to match.

Front:

Rejoin the yarn to other set of 83sts, with wrong side facing, and purl back across 83sts.

Complete the front exactly as you did the back.

Yoke:

Join the shoulders either by stitching or grafting.

Using the No 10 needles with points at both ends, or a circular needle, and with the right side of the work facing, knit up 236 stitches, starting at a shoulder seam as follows:
28sts down the side of the neck, from the shoulder seam, 63 across the front (from the spare needle), 55 up the right side of the neck, 63 across the back of the neck (from the spare needle), 27 up the side of the neck.
If you are using double pointed needles, divide the stitches as follows: 79 on the first and third, and 78 on the second, or if you are using a circular needle, place a stitch marker at the beginning of the round.

1st Round: k2, (p2, k2) six times; p2tog; p1, (k2, p2) fourteen times; k2, p2tog, p1, (k2, p2) thirteen times, k2, p2tog, p1, (k2, p2); fourteen times, k2, p2tog, p1, (k2, p2) seven times.
2nd Round: k2, (p2, k2) six times, p2tog, (k2, p2) fourteen times, k2, p2tog, (k2, p2) thirteen times, k2, p2tog, (k2, p2) fourteen times, k2, p2tog, (k2, p2) seven times.
3rd Round: k2, (p2, k2) six times, k2tog, k1, p2, (k2, p2) thirteen times; k1, k2tog, k2, (p2, k2) thirteen times; k2tog, k1, (p2, k2) thirteen times; p2, k1, k2tog, (k2, p2) seven times.
4th Round: (k2, p2) six times; k2, k2tog, p2, (k2, p2) thirteen times; k2tog, k2; (p2, k2) twelve times; p2, k2, k2tog, (p2, k2) thirteen times; p2, k2tog; (k2, p2) seven times.
5th Round: (k2, p2) six times; k1, k2tog, p2; (k2, p2) thirteen times; k2tog, k1, p2; (k2, p2) 12 times, k1, k2tog, p2; (k2, p2) thirteen times; k2tog, k1, p2; (k2, p2) six times.
Continue decreasing in this manner until the yoke measures 3 inches from the commencement.
Cast off in pattern.

[Editor's note: It took me a while to work out the "continue decreasing in this manner" so at the end of the instructions I am including my explanation of the yoke decreasing. Rounds 2 through 5 are the four decreasing rows that are repeated.]

Sleeves:

With right side facing and using No 8 needles, pick up and knit 67 sts around the head of the sleeve, (leave the cast off armhole sts).

You will knit backwards and forwards in pattern across these sts, shaping the sleeve by knitting short rows.
Purl 1 row.

1st Row: K2, * k2tog; k2; yarn forward; k1; yarn forward; k2; k2tog through back loops; repeat from * to the last 2 sts, k2.
2nd Row: P2tog, purl to the last 2 sts, p2tog. [65sts].
3rd Row: K1 * k2tog; k2; yarn forward; k1; yarn forward; k2; k2tog through back loops; repeat from * 4 times more; wrap next stitch, by putting yarn forward, slipping the next st on the the right needle, putting the yarn back to the back of the work, and then slipping the slipped st back on to the left hand needle again; turn. [You turn with 19 sts left on the needle].
4th Row: P27, wrap next stitch; turn. [You turn with 19 sts left on the needle].
5th Row: K1, * k2tog; k2; yarn forward; k1; yarn forward; k2; k2tog through back loops; repeat from * once; wrap next stitch; turn, [You turn with 28 sts left on the needle].
6th Row: P9, wrap next stitch; turn.
7th Row: K1, * k2tog; k2; yarn forward; k1; yarn forward; k2; k2tog through back loops; repeat from * across all sts to last st, k1.
8th Row: Purl.
9th Row: K1, * k2tog; k2; yarn forward; k1; yarn forward; k2; k2tog through back loops; repeat from * 5 times more; wrap next stitch; turn. [You turn with 10 sts left on the needle].
10th Row: P45, wrap next stitch; turn. [You turn with 10 sts left on the needle].
11th Row: K1, * k2tog; k2; yarn forward; k1; yarn forward; k2; k2tog through back loops; repeat from * across all sts to last st, k1.
12th Row: Purl.
13th Row: K1, * k2tog; k2; yarn forward; k1; yarn forward; k2; k2tog through back loops; repeat from * to the last st, k1.
14th Row: Purl.

Knit the next 3 rows.
Cast off (from wrong side) knitwise.

Making Up

Sew up sleeve seams under the arms, and sew in all ends.

Sew four buttons up each of the two front corners of yoke.

Materials

5 x 50g balls Stylecraft Sirocco 80% cotton, 20% linen; 98yds/90m per ball.

Numbers 8, 9, 10, and 11 (4, 3¾, 3¼ and 3mm) circular needles.

8 decorative buttons.

Tension

Yarn knits to 20st and 28 rows to four inches on No 8 needles.

One pattern = 1½ in on No 8 needles.

Size matters

Original sized for bust 34 inches; length 18 inches.
This version in a slightly thicker yarn fits 36-38 inch bust as shown in photo, and instructions are for a 20 inch length.

A word on the wool.

I wanted to knit this in a bouclé or slub cotton and just could not find what I wanted - there is the fabulous Debbie Bliss Astrakhan, but that is too wintry and thick. Then, in a local haberdashers, I found this Stylecraft yarn which is absolutely what I was looking for and has the benefit of being natural fibre and very good value!

Original: Paton's Super Brindle, which comes (came) in white flecked with colours. This was probably finer than Sirocco - more a straight DK at 22 sts per 4 inches I am guessing.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Additional Instructions for Yoke Decreasing:

These follow the foundation decreasing "Round 1". Instead of writing out every stitch, I have indicated the number of sts between the decreases; "rib" means k2 p2 rib, following the ribs as set out in the row below.

2nd Round: rib 26, p2tog, rib 58, p2tog, rib 54, p2tog, rib 58, p2tog, rib 28.
3rd Round: rib 26, k2tog, rib 56, k2tog, rib 54, k2tog, rib 56, k2tog, rib 28.
4th Round: rib 26, k2tog, rib 54, k2tog, rib 54, k2tog, rib 54, k2tog, rib 28.
5th Round: rib 25, k2tog, rib 54, k2tog, rib 52, k2tog, rib 54, k2tog, rib 27.

6th Round: rib 24, k2tog, rib 54, k2tog, rib 50, k2tog, rib 54, k2tog, rib 26.
7th Round: rib 24, p2tog, rib 52, p2tog, rib 50, p2tog, rib 52, p2tog, rib 26.
8th Round: rib 24, p2tog, rib 50, p2tog, rib 50, p2tog, rib 50, p2tog, rib 26.
9th Round: rib 23, p2tog, rib 50, p2tog, rib 48, p2tog, rib 50, p2tog, rib 25.

10th Round: rib 22, p2tog, rib 50, p2tog, rib 46, p2tog, rib 50, p2tog, rib 24.
11th Round: rib 22, k2tog, rib 48, k2tog, rib 46, k2tog, rib 48, k2tog, rib 24.
12th Round: rib 22, k2tog, rib 46, k2tog, rib 46, k2tog, rib 46, k2tog, rib 24.
13th Round: rib 21, k2tog, rib 46, k2tog, rib 44, k2tog, rib 46, k2tog, rib 23.

14th Round: rib 20, k2tog, rib 46, k2tog, rib 42, k2tog, rib 46, k2tog, rib 22.
15th Round: rib 20, p2tog, rib 44, p2tog, rib 42, p2tog, rib 44, p2tog, rib 22.
16th Round: rib 20, p2tog, rib 42, p2tog, rib 42, p2tog, rib 42, p2tog, rib 22.
17th Round: rib 19, p2tog, rib 42, p2tog, rib 40, p2tog, rib 42, p2tog, rib 21.

18th Round: rib 18, p2tog, rib 42, p2tog, rib 38, p2tog, rib 42, p2tog, rib 20.
19th Round: rib 18, k2tog, rib 40, k2tog, rib 38, k2tog, rib 40, k2tog, rib 20.
20th Round: rib 18, k2tog, rib 38, k2tog, rib 38, k2tog, rib 38, k2tog, rib 20.
21st Round: rib 17, k2tog, rib 38, k2tog, rib 36, k2tog, rib 38, k2tog, rib 19.

22nd Round: rib 16, k2tog, rib 38, k2tog, rib 34, k2tog, rib 38, k2tog, rib 18.
23rd Round: rib 16, p2tog, rib 36, p2tog, rib 34, p2tog, rib 36, p2tog, rib 18.
24th Round: rib 16, p2tog, rib 34, p2tog, rib 34, p2tog, rib 34, p2tog, rib 18.
25th Round: [Cast off in pattern as you go]; rib 15, p2tog, rib 34, p2tog, rib 32, p2tog, rib 34, p2tog, rib 17.

Instructions (both hands alike).

Beginning at the side edge with main colour, make 41 chain, turn.

Start with little finger
1st Row: Miss 1 ch., * 1 half treble in each ch.; repeat from * to end, turn with 2 ch.
2nd Row: * 1 h.tr. in each h.tr.; repeat from * to end; break cotton and rejoin at other end.

Begin third finger
3rd Row: 1 h.tr. in each of next 25 h.trs., 19 ch. for 3rd finger, 1 ch. to turn.

**
4th Row: Miss 1 ch., 1 h.tr. in each ch; 1 h.tr. in each of next 25 h.tr. to end, turn with 2 ch.
5th Row: * 1 h.tr. in next h.tr.; repeat from * to end, turn with 2 ch.
6th Row: Repeat last row once more.**

Begin middle finger
7th Row: 1 h.tr. in each of next 25 h.trs., 21 ch. for middle finger, 1 ch. to turn.
Repeat from ** to ** once.

Begin first finger
11th Row: 1 h.tr. in each of next 25 h.trs., 19 ch. for 1st finger, 1 ch. to turn.
Repeat from ** to ** once.

Begin thumb
15th Row: 1 h.tr. in each of next 19 h.trs., 14 ch. for thumb, 1 ch. to turn.
16th (short) Row: Miss 1 ch., 1 h.tr. in next 14 ch., 1 h.tr. in each of next 7 h.trs., 1slip st. in next stitch, turn;
17th Row: 1 h.tr. in each of next 21 h.trs., turn with 2 ch.
18th (short) Row: 1 h.tr. in each of next 24 h.trs., 1slip st. in next stitch, turn.
19th Row: * 1 h.tr. in each h.tr.; repeat from * to end. Fasten off.

[Editor's note: You end here at the top of the thumb. One half of the glove is complete - this half covers the back of the hand.]

Now keeping same side of glove piece facing you, rejoin to beginning of row, and work 1 long row dc. up side of thumb and all round fingers, ending at top of little finger.

Now work down side of little finger to wrist thus:
[Editor's note: You are working the other half of the glove now - the palm side.]

Little finger
1st Row: * 1 h.tr. in next h.tr.; repeat from * to end, turn with 2 ch. Repeat last row 4 times more, turning with 1ch on last row.

Third finger
††
6th Row: 1 dc in each of first 12 h.trs., 1 h.tr. in each of next 13 h.trs., 19 ch. for next finger; 1 ch. to turn.
7th Row: Miss 1 ch., 1 h.tr. in each of the 19 ch; 1 h.tr. in 13 h.tr. [that is 32 h.trs. in all], 1 dc in each 12 dc; turn with 2 ch.
8th Row: 1 h.trs.in each 12 dc, * 1 h.tr. in next h.tr.; repeat from * to end; turn with 2 ch.
9th Row: * 1 h.tr. in next h.tr.; repeat from * to end, turn with 1 ch. ††

Middle finger
10th Row: 1 dc in each of first 12 h.trs., 1 h.tr. in each of next 13 h.trs., 21 ch. for middle finger, 1 ch. to turn.
11th Row: Miss 1 ch., 1 h.tr. in each of the 21 ch; 1 h.tr. in 13 h.tr. [that is 34 h.trs. in all], 1 dc in each of 12 dc turn with 2 ch.
12th Row: 1 h.tr.in each of 12 dc, * 1 h.tr. in next h.tr.; repeat from * to end; turn with 2 ch.
13th Row: * 1 h.tr. in next h.tr.; repeat from * to end, turn with 1 ch.

First finger
Repeat from †† to †† once - as for third finger.

Thumb
18th Row: 1 dc in each of first 12 h.trs., 1 h.tr. in each of next 7 h.trs., 14 ch. for thumb, 1 ch. to turn.
19th (short) Row: Miss 1 ch., 1 h.tr. in next 14 ch., 1 h.tr. in each of next 7 h.trs., 1slip st. in next stitch, turn.
20th Row: 1 h.tr. in each of next 21 h.trs., turn with 2 ch.
21st (full) Row: 1 h.tr. in each of next 24 h.trs., * 1dc into next dc, repeat from * to end; turn with 2 ch.
22nd Row: 1 h.tr. into each stitch to top of thumb. Do not fasten off.

Continue with row, working a row of dc. down inner side of thumb and round all fingers, ending at top of little finger, where you finished your row of dc when working the other side; fasten off.

Make another glove in the same way.

To Make Up

Press parts very carefully on wrong side under a damp cloth.
Join sides and fingers by oversewing.
[Editor's note: The original gloves were made in white, so the instructions here say to use with white sewing cotton. So either use a toning sewing cotton or do as I did and use the main yarn to sew up]

Remember to turn second glove inside out for other hand.
[Editor's note: The original gloves are made identically, but have a specific side for the palms, so you need to fold and sew them up opposite ways in order to create right and left hands.
If this helps: after you have sewn up the first glove and then turned it right side out, sew up the second glove to look exactly the same orientation as the first - then when you turn it right side out, it will be the reverse of the first glove.].

Cuffs

With main colour yarn, make 45 ch., turn.
[Editor's note: This strip is eased to fit bottom of the glove, but it does have to fit around your wrist, plus allowing for a little overlap - I found that although the glove fitted me, 45 chain were not sufficient to create the strap - so I used 51 chain.]

1st Row: Miss 1 ch., * 1 dc in each ch.; repeat from * to last ch., 2 dc in last ch.; turn with 1 ch.
2nd Row: 2 dc in first dc; * 1 dc in next dc, repeat from * to end; turn with 1 ch.
3rd Row: * 1 dc in next dc, repeat from * to last dc, 2 d.c. in last dc; turn with 1 ch.
4th Row: As 2nd row.
5th Row: * 1 dc in next dc, repeat from * to last dc, 1 slip st in last dc; turn with 1 ch.
6th Row: Miss 1 dc, * 1 dc in next dc, repeat from * to end; turn with 1 ch.
7th Row: * 1 dc in next dc, repeat from * to last dc, 1 slip st in last dc; turn with 1 ch.
8th Row: As 6th row. Fasten off.

With contrast yarn, work 1 row of dc all round cuff.
[Editor's note: As it's left to your own judgement, do not work too many dc across the short straight edge, or it will splay out and the curved edge will not cover it properly for the overlap.]

Sew cuff neatly round glove with contrast edging overlapping edge of main work and with opening in centre of back; rounded edge comes below 3rd finger and slightly overlaps straight short edge of cuff.
Sew press-studs to cuff to fasten invisibly.
[Editor's note: I used a non-sew fastener (9 or 10mm) - the kind you apply with pliers or a supplied tool. You need to apply this before you put on the decorative contrast circle.]

Work a small circle of dc in contrast and sew in position on top of cuff as shown in photograph.
[Editor's note: I used Coats No 20 crochet cotton worked double for my contrast navy - so for the circles I used the cotton singly with a much smaller hook. I made a ring and worked 7 dc into it; I then worked a second round of 2 dc into every dc. This wasn't quite big enough, so I work a round of slip sts to finish.]

Materials

1 x 50g ball Phildar Phil Crochet, shade 07 Veronese, (100% cotton, 201yards), with a small amount of navy blue for contrast.
One number 12 (2½mm) crochet hook.
Two press fasteners.

Crochet abbreviations:

ch = chain
h.tr = half treble
dc = double crochet

Remember these are English crochet instructions where dc is equivalent to US single crochet, and so on - see "Terminology" in the side bar.

Tension

6 half trebles to an inch.
Note: these are UK crochet instructions - to work a half treble: wool over hook, insert hook in next stitch, draw loop through, wool over hook, and draw through all three loops.

Size matters

To fit "an average hand".

A word on the wool.

Original specified 2 x 1oz balls of Strutt's Milford Knitting Cotton No. 8 in white, with scraps of black 4-ply wool for edging.

The single 50g ball of Phil Crochet was only just enough at 201yds.

For winter gloves, they could be easily worked in wool instead of cotton for those who don't like to knit.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Diagonal Rib Pattern

Sleeves and lower part of jumper are knitted in a k2, p2 rib, with the rib carried one stitch sideways on each row.

The following 4 rows form the pattern, worked over an odd number of stitches.

Row 1: (k2, p2) repeated to centre stitch; knit centre stitch; (p2, k2) repeated to end of row.
Row 2: p1, (k2, p2) repeated to centre 5 sts; k2, p1, purl centre stitch, p1, k2; (p2, k2) repeated to last st, p1.
Row 3: (p2, k2) repeated to centre stitch; purl centre stitch; (k2, p2) repeated to end of row.
Row 4: k1, (p2, k2) repeated to centre 7 sts; p2, k1, purl centre stitch, k1, p2; (k2, p2) repeated to last st, k1.

Cable Pattern

The yoke of the jumper is knitted in cable ribbing, where the stitch between the cables is subsequently dropped to form "ladders".
To work the 8-stitch cables twisting to the right, (cable "back" abbreviated to C4B), slip 4 sts on to a cable needle, and leave at back of work, k4, then k4 from cable needle.
To work the 8-stitch cables twisting to the left, (cable "front" abbreviated to C4F), slip 4 sts on to a cable needle, and leave at front of work, k4, then k4 from cable needle.

When the sts are dropped, pull them back to where you started the cables, above the diagonal rib, and secure the stitch by running a thread through and stitching on the inside.
[Editor's note: Be extra careful with the bamboo yarn; it is very slippery, the ladders run very easily, and the yarn splits, making it the devil to pick up a stitch dropped accidentally.]

Back

Using No. 12 needles and main colour (blue), cast on 104 stitches, and work 3 inches in k1, p1 rib, (approximately 25 rows), increasing one stitch at the end of the last row.
Change to No. 9 needles and purl one row. [105 sts]

Work the 4-row pattern 10 times, then the first two rows again, (42 rows).

[Editor's note: The origonal instructions were to work the 4-row pattern 14 times as it was intended for a thinner yarn. For my version, in the bamboo yarn, I worked 16 rows fewer up to the start of the cables, as well as 16 rows fewer in the armhole section (see notes below) which brought the welt up to sit on my hips as shown in the photo.]

Row 43: (p2, k2) repeated to centre stitch; knit centre stitch; (k2, p2) repeated to end of row. (ie pattern row 3 with 5 sts knitted in the middle).
Row 44: k1, (p2, k2) repeated to centre 7 sts; p7 centre sts; (k2, p2) repeated to last st, k1. (ie pattern row 4 with 5 sts knitted in the middle).
Row 45: (k2, p2) repeated to centre 9 sts; k9 centre sts; (p2, k2) repeated to end of row.
Row 46: p1, k2, (p2, k2) repeated to centre 11 sts; p11 centre sts; (k2, p2) repeated to last 3 sts, k2, p1.
Row 47: p2, (k2, p2) repeated to centre 13 sts; k13 centre sts; (p2, k2) repeated to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 48: k1, (p2, k2) repeated to centre 15 sts; p15 centre sts; (k2, p2) repeated to last st, k1.
Row 49: (k2, p2) repeated to centre 17 sts; k17 centre sts; (p2, k2) repeated to end of row.
Row 50: p1, k2, (p2, k2) repeated to centre 19 sts; p19 centre sts; (k2, p2) repeated to last 3 sts, k2, p1.
Row 51: p2, (k2, p2) repeated to centre 21 sts; k21 centre sts; (p2, k2) repeated to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 52: k1, (p2, k2) repeated to centre 23 sts; p23 centre sts; (k2, p2) repeated to last st, k1.
Row 53: (k2, p2) repeated to centre 25 sts; k25 centre sts; (p2, k2) repeated to end of row.
Row 54: p1, k2, (p2, k2) repeated to centre 27 sts; p27 centre sts; (k2, p2) repeated to last 3 sts, k2, p1.

Now start the striped pattern:

Row 55: K38 sts in pattern as set in blue; join on white: k6, cable C4B, k1, cable C4F, k6; join on another ball of blue and finish row in pattern.
Row 56: Pattern 37 sts blue; purl 31 white; pattern k37 sts blue.
Row 57: Pattern 36 sts blue; knit 33 white; pattern 36 sts blue.

Continue as on last 2 rows. increasing number of white stitches for 5 more rows (i.e.. finally 31 blue; 43 white; 31 blue).

Row 63: Work in blue right across row: 30 sts in pattern; k5, (C4B, k1) twice, (C4F, k1) twice, k4; 30 sts in pattern.
Row 64: Pattern 29 sts; p47; pattern 29 sts.

Continue thus for 6 more rows in blue, still taking 2 more into stocking stitch in each row (23 pattern sts on each side).

Row 71: Pattern 22 sts blue; join on white: k4, (C4B, k1) 3 times, (C4F, k1) 3 times, k3; join on blue pattern 22 sts.
Row 72: Pattern 21 sts blue; purl 33 white; pattern 21 sts blue.

Continue thus for 6 more rows.

Row 79: Work in blue right across row: 14 sts in pattern; k3, (C4B, k1) 4 times, (C4F, k1) 4 times, k2; 14 sts in pattern.
Row 80: Pattern 13 sts; p79; pattern 13 sts.

Shape armhole:
Rows 81 & 82: Still taking one stitch more at each side of centre piece, cast off 3 sts at beginning of next 2 rows.
Rows 83: k2tog at beginning and end of row.
Row 84-86: Work 3 rows in pattern without decreasing.
**
Row 87: Change to white: k4, (C4B, k1) 5 times, (C4F, k1) 5 times, k3.
Continue in stocking stitch for 7 rows.

Repeat from ** with alternate colours 4 times, then repeat row 87 row in blue.
[Editor's note: The original pattern on thinner yarn repeated the pattern 6 times here. I worked a shorter arm hole here which worked out for my own measurements - see section on sizing. You can work the armhole to a suitable length according to your size and your yarn; however, if you do make alterations, remember to work the same length on the fronts, and prepare to do some compensation on the sleeve decreasing.]

Work 3 rows in stocking stitch.

Row 131: Cast off 2, drop 1 st, leave big loop (to cover dropped st), and cast off 1 more; knit to end.
Row 132: Cast off 2 purlwise, drop 1 st, leave big loop (to cover dropped st), and cast off 1 more; purl to end.
Row 133: Cast off 7, drop 1 st, cast off 1 more very loosely as before; knit to end.
Row 134: As 149th row but purl.
Now cast off remaining sts, dropping stitches between cables.
[Editor's note: You may want to catch the all the dropped sts with safety pins at this point in the construction, until you are ready to sew up and secure the sts in the right place.]

Right Front

Using No. 12 needles and main colour (blue), cast on 66 stitches, and work 3 inches in k1, p1 rib, (approximately 30 rows), increasing one stitch at the end of the last row. [67 sts].
Change to No. 9 needles and purl one row.

Row 1: k15; (p2, k2) repeated to end of row.
Row 2: p1; (k2, p2) repeated to last 14 sts; k1, p13..
Row 3: k. 13, p2; (k2, p2) repeated to end of row.
Row 4: k1; (p2, k2) repeated to last 14 sts; p14.
Row 5: k4; cable C4F; k3; (p2, k2) repeated to end of row.
Row 6: p1; (k2, p2) repeated to last 14 sts; k1, p13.
Row 7: k. 13, p2; (k2, p2) repeated to end of row.
Row 8: k1; (p2, k2) repeated to last 14 sts; p14.

Repeat these 8 rows 4 times.
[Editor's note: The original pattern on thinner yarn repeated the pattern 6 times here. I worked a shorter length here to match the back]

Row 41: k15; (p2, k2) repeated to end of row.
Row 42: As 2nd but purl last 16 stitches.
Row 43: k17; p2, (k2, p2) repeated to end of row.
Row 44: As 4th but purl last 18 stitches.
Row 45: k4; cable C4F; k7; (p2, k2) repeated to end of row.
Row 46: As 2nd but purl last 20 stitches.
Row 47: k. 21; p2; (k2, p2) repeated to end of row.
Row 48: As 4th but purl last 22 stitches.
Row 49: k.23; (p2, k2) repeated to end of row.
Row 50: As 2nd but purl last 24 stitches.
Row 51: k25; p2; (k2, p2) repeated to end of row.
Row 52: As 4th but purl last 26 stitches.
Row 53: Join in white: k4; cable C4F; k1; cable C4F; k6. Join in blue: (p2, k2) repeated to end of row.
Row 54: As 2nd. ending k. 2. Purl last 28 stitches in white.
Continue for 6 rows in pattern, working 1 more stitch in white on each row.

Row 61: All blue. K4, (C4F, k1) twice, C4F, k5; (p2, k2) repeated to end of row.
Continue for 7 more rows as before, working 1 more stitch into stocking-stitch border in front on each row.

Row 69: Join in white: k4; (C4F, k1) 4 times, k3. Join in blue: (p2, k2) repeated to end of row.
Continue for 7 more rows as before.

Row 77: All blue. K4, (C4F, k1) 5 times, k2; (p2, k2) repeated to end of row.
Continue as before for 4 more rows.

Shape armhole:
Row 82: Cast off 5, k1, p2. k2, purl to end.
Row 83: Knit to within 5 from end, p2, k1, k2tog.
Row 84: K2tog, k1, purl to end.

Row 85: Join on white: k4; (C4F, k1) 5 times; k9, k2tog.
Row 86: P2 tog, purl to end. [58 sts]
Row 87: Knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [57 sts]
Row 88: P2 tog, purl to end. [56 sts]
Repeat the last 2 rows twice more.
Row 93: All blue. K4; (C4F, k1) 5 times; k3. [52 sts]
Work 7 rows stocking stitch.

Work 2 more cable stripes alternately in white and blue, working only 3 rows in stocking stitch after the cable row on the second blue stripe.
[Editor's note: The original pattern on thinner yarn repeated the stripes 4 times here, working 3 rows on the 4th stripe. I worked a shorter armhole here to compensate for the heavier yarn weight as on the back - see sections on wool and sizing.]

Row 113: Cast off 2, break wool and pull through last stitch; drop 1. Join on again.
[Editor's note: You have effectively cast off 3 and dropped one stitch - so you are 4 sts fewer on the needle].
Continue pattern. decreasing 1 stitch every row at neck-edge, not forgetting to drop stitches between cable, until 33 stitches are left.
[Editor's note: You don't count the dropped sts as decreases]
Work 3 straight rows (i.e. you have done 4 rows of the 2nd blue cable after armhole decreasings).
[Editor's note: With the original pattern on thinner yarn you would have worked the 4th blue cable after the armhole decreasings]
Cast off shoulder to match back:
Row 129: Work 1 row straight to the armhole edge.
Row 130: Cast off 2 purlwise, drop 1 st, leave big loop (to cover dropped st), and cast off 1 more; purl to end.
Row 131: Knit
Row 132: Cast off 7 purlwise, drop 1 st, cast off 1 more very loosely as before; purl to end.
Row 133: Cast off remaining sts, dropping stitches between cables.

Left Front

Cast on and work in ribbing as for right front; change to No. 9 needles and purl one row on 67 sts.

Row 1: k2; (p2, k2) repeated to last 13 sts, k13.
Row 2: p13, k1; (p2, k2) repeat to last st, p1.
Row 3: p2; (k2, p2) repeated to last 13 sts, k13.
Row 4: p13, p1; (k2, p2) repeated to last st, k1.
Row 5: k2; (p2, k2) repeated to last 13 sts, k1, cable C4B, k4.
Row 6: p13, k1; (p2, k2) repeat to last st, p1.
Row 7: p2; (k2, p2) repeated to last 13 sts, k13.
Row 8: p13, p1; (k2, p2) repeated to last st, k1.

Continue with these rows in pattern as set, reversing the shapings and making the two fronts correspond.

Sleeves (work 2 alike).

Cast on 62 stitches on No.12 needles.
Rib 10 rows, k1, p1, increasing once at end of last row.
Purl 1row on No.9 needles.[63 sts]
Work in pattern for 4 rows.

Next row: Increase once at each end of needle.
Work 7 rows pattern.
Keep continuity of pattern and repeat last 8 rows 7 times.
Next row: Increase once at each end of needle.
Work 2 more rows. [81 sts]

Cast off 3 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Decrease at each end of every row for 5 rows, then on every alternate row until 31 sts remain.
Decrease at each end of every row until 15 sts remain; cast off remaining 15 sts.

[Editor's note: The instructions above are as I worked the sleeve but are completely different fom the original. Below are the original instructions in case you are working in the fine fingering weight wool.]

Here are the original instructions for the 3 ply weight yarn:
Cast on 80 stitches on No.12 needles.
Rib 10 rows, k1, p1, increasing once at end of last row.
Purl 1 row on No. 9 needles.

Work 7 rows in pattern.
Next row: Increase once at each end of needle.
Keep continuity of pattern and repeat last 8 rows 4 times.
Work 4 more rows.
Decrease once at each end of every row until 21 stitches remain.
Cast off.

[My sleeve length is to the elbow. The original sleeve was made much shorter and a different shape.]

Collar

On No. 12 needles, pick up 104 stitches round neck: 33 sts from each front and side neck, and 38 sts across the back.
Work in k1, p1, ribbing for 10 rows, change to No. 9 needles and rib 10 more rows, (approximaterly 2½ inches).
Cast off loosely in rib, using a larger sized needle if necessary, (for example No. 8).
[Editor's note: Original instructions picked up 170 sts for the collar (50 each side, 70 across back).]

Making Up

Drop stitches between cables. Catch these stitches (and sew in) on the wrong side to prevent running into the diagonally ribbed pattern.
Press with damp cloth and hot iron.
Match cables at shoulder seams and darn ends across holes formed.
Join side seams and sew in sleeves.
Work 4 rows of double crochet down left front (work rather tightly and then stretch under iron, to prevent sagging in wear).
[Editor's note: I picked up two thirds of the row ends across the welt (approximately 20dc) and every alternate row end up the rest of the front (approximately 57dc) . I worked the crochet very loosely up the main body of the band, and more tightly when working the part across the side of the welt.
You have some flexibility here to increase the bust size slightly by working additional rows.]
Sew on 7 white buttons down front.
Work 3 rows of double crochet down right front, then a 4th row with loops of 8 chain opposite buttons.
[Editor's note: My loops were 8 chain positioned on the 11th dc with 10 dc between them. To work the loops: (1dc into next dc; chain 8; 1 slip st into same dc; 10 dc into next 10 dc) repeat. However it's a good idea to sew on the buttons evenly first, and work the loops to match the positions.]

Materials

Original pattern calls for 6oz of main and 1oz white in "3 ply".
Example shown is knitted in 12 x 50g balls Rowan Bamboo Soft in main shade (colour: Cambria 109) and 2 x 50g balls in white.

One pair each of numbers 12 (2¾mm) and 9 (3¾mm) needles. One cable needle. One No 9 (3½mm) crochet hook.

Seven buttons, approximately 1 inch. The original shows rather larger buttons as part of the styling.

Tension

Original states 32st to an inch over diagonal rib on No 9 needles.

Size matters

No size given originally - knitted example measured 36-38 inches. My version is knitted with fewer rows than stated in the original pattern (my deviations noted in red); this is - as intended - to keep the cardigan waist length like the original, but with longer sleeves. The result is a good fit for me (a chubby UK size 12), shaped to be fitted around the bust, under the arms, and into the waist, but with a good degree of ease.

See the section on sizing.

A word on the wool.

Rowan Bamboo Soft, is a light weight DK which knits to a tension of 25sts and 30 rows to 4 inches; 102m/112yds to 50g.
This is a dense yarn, and thicker than the vintage yarn, so requires a lot more yarn than specified in the original pattern.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions

Work two slippers the same as follows:

Sole and foot - Cast on 28 sts in white
Knit in stockinette for 4.5 inches ( this is the length of the foot from the back of the heel to start of toes)

At start of toes k1p1 rib for 2 inches

Next row: p2 tog across entire row (14 sts)
Next row: repeat: p2 tog across entire row (7 sts)

Draw thread through remaining stitches and secure, leaving a long thread. Sew up the edges of the ribbed section to form the toe. The seam is centred along the top of the foot and will be covered later by the head.

Heel - Pick up 10 stitches from middle of cast on row, leaving 18sts (9 on each side of the 10 you have picked up). You will pick up and incorporate these 18 sts as you work the back of the heel.

Work 15 rows on these 10 sts in stockinette as follows:

Row 1: K9; pick up the next st of the cast-on row and knit it together with the last st of the row. Turn.
Row 2: P9; pick up the next st of the cast-on row and purl it together with the last st of the row. Turn

Continue in this way for 12 rows in all.

Row 13: Pick up at a st at the beginning and end of the row, knitting the picked up sts with the first and last st of the row respectively.
Row 14: Pick up at a st at the beginning and end of the row, purling the picked up sts with the first and last st of the row respectively.
Row 15: Pick up at a st at the beginning and end of the row, and K2 tog repeated across the row.

Bind off remaining 6 stitches.

In sewing the toe centre seam, and working the heel you have pulled up the sides to form the slipper shape.

[Editor's note: If the 'cuff' of the slipper is loose you can work a row of single crochet around the edge of the slipper and pull in the shape a little. I used the pink for this.].

Head - knit 2 in white.

Cast on 10 sts.
Next row: Knit twice into every stitch [20 sts].
Work in garter stitch (knit every row) for 1.5 inches.
Next row: K2tog across the row [10 sts].
Bind off leaving long tail.

Using spare yarn, embroider a pink nose, and crescent shapes for closed eyes, using the picture as a guide.

Loosely stuff head and use long tail to sew around edge and pull in making a small flat ball.

Ears - knit 4 in white and 4 in pink

Cast on 2 sts.
Next row: Knit twice into every stitch [4 sts].
Work in garter stitch (knit every row) for 1 inch.
Next row: K2tog across the row [2 sts].
K2tog and bind off.

Sew a white to a pink ear using blanket stitch.

Finishing - Sew ears firmly to back of head at jaunty angle.
Sew head to slippers covering the seam on the toe section.

Tail - (optional) make 2 small pompoms and attach to heels of slipper.

Materials

Dishcloth cotton - white and pink (Lily Sugar n'Cream cotton.).
I used just over one ball of white and a scrap of pink.

1 pair 5mm needles. .

Tension

20 sts and 26 rows to 4 inches measured over stocking stitch on 4½mm needles.

Size matters

Fits feet 7" long (age 4 or so).
To adjust the length - knit the plain stockinette section for longer.
To adjust for width cast on more stitches, make sure you increase the heel pick up stitches in proportion.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions (both hands alike)

Using No. 14 (2mm) needles cast on 48 stitches, and work in k2, p2 rib in rounds for 2½ inches.

Next row: Knit twice into every stitch.

Now slip every alternate stitch (ie every "made" stitch) on to No 12(11) needles and leave the original 48 sts on the No14 needles on the outside of the work.

[Editor's note: The original instructions expect you to continue to knit on the larger needles, leaving the outer sts on the No 14 needles. I found this very awkward; I thought it would improve as I got further up the glove but it did not.
So I took the trouble, after I had slipped the sts as shown, to thread the outer sts onto waste yarn (slippery yarn, as the Tweed wool is felty), and then when I had finished the inner glove, rethread them back on to the 14 needles.]

Continue on the No 12(11) needles, on the "made" sts, in rounds of plain knitting, and work 2 rows straight.

3rd round: Knit twice into first st, knit to the last st, knit twice into it.
Knit 2 rounds.

6th round: Knit twice into first st, knit to the last 2sts, knit twice into next st, k1.
Knit 2 rounds.

9th round: Knit twice into first st, knit to the last 3sts, knit twice into next st, k2.
Knit 2 rounds.

Continue in this way, increasing on every 3rd row at either side of the thuumb, until there are 66 sts on the needles.

Divide for thumb
Next round: K8; leave next 50 sts a holder (or holders); cast on 4 sts in waste wool and knit them onto the working needle; knit remaining 8 sts of round. [20sts]

Continue on these 20 sts for 22 rounds.
Next round: K2tog all round.
Next round: Knit
Next round: K2tog all round.
Draw thread through remaining sts and fasten off.

Rejoin wool to continue with the main part of the mitten:
remove the waste wool and pick up 4 sts at the base of the thumb, then knit the 50 sts from the holder. [54sts]

Work 18 rounds straight on these 54 sts.

Divide for fingers
Next round (forefinger): K10; leave leave next 38 sts a holder (or holders); cast on 4 sts in waste wool and knit them onto the working needle; knit remaining 6sts of round. [20sts]

Work 3 rounds straight on these 20 sts, then work 4 rounds k1, p1 rib. Cast off loosely in rib.

Next round (middle finger): Remove the waste wool and pick up 4 sts at the base forefinger. Knit first 6 sts from holder; cast on 4 sts in waste wool and knit them onto the working needle; slip the last 6 sts on holder onto a needle and knit them. [20sts]

Complete as for forefinger.

Next round (third finger): Work and complete as for middle finger.

Next round (little finger): Remove the waste wool and pick up 4 sts at the base third finger, and knit the remaining 14 sts from holder. [18sts]

Work as before over these 18 sts.

Over-mitten
Now return to sts left on the No 14 needles at the wrist.
[Editor's note: Or - thread the sts on the spare wool back on to the No 14 needles.]
Join in the wool at the beginning of the round, (base of the thumb), and with No 11 (10) needles, work backwards and forwards in stocking stitch, (one row plain, one row purl), for 5 inches.

Next row (right side facing): K2tog; k21; k2tog; k21; k2tog.
Work 5 rows straight.
7th row: K2tog; knit to centre; k3tog; knit to the last 2 sts; k2tog.

Continue in stocking stitch, decreasing as for 7th row on every 6th row until 37 sts remain.
Work 3 rows straight.
Then decrease in the same way on every row until 9 sts remain.
Cast off.

Making up
Press stocking-stitch portions with a damp cloth. Darn in all ends. Insert zip down side of outer mitten, starting at top and ending with the pull just above the thumb; join the remainder of seam across top of fingers. The edges of the outer mitten should fit nicely round the thumb; finish these with a row of double crochet.

Materials

Example shown is knitted in 3 x 25g balls Rowan 4ply Tweed.

Set of 4 each of numbers 14, 12 and 11 (UK size) needles for the smaller size, and 14, 11 and 10 for the larger size.
A number 12 crochet hook.

Two 4-inch zip fasteners.

Tension

Approx. 8st to 1 inch

Rowan 4ply tweed tension: 28st and 40rows to 4 inches (10cm) using No 11 (3mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit size 6¼-7, or 7½-8½ inch hand.

A word on the wool.

Original calls for 2oz 3 ply for girl's size [sic] and 3oz 4ply for man's size.
I have often read that older 3 or 4 ply wools were thicker than 3 or 4 plies of today; I have not really noticed that before in practice - however I think a large man's mitten could be knitted in guernsey 5ply or a light weight DK, like Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions

Cast on 73 stitches.

First row: K1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.

Repeat this row for the moss stitch border 8 times more.

10th (increase) row: Moss 8, (increase in the next st, moss 6) 8 times; increase in the next st, moss 8. [82 sts]

Change to pattern rows as follows:

1st row: moss 5, p3, *k6, p6; repeat from * to last 14sts; k6, p3, moss 5.
2nd row: moss 5, k3, *p6, k6; repeat from * to last 14sts; p6, k3, moss 5.
Repeat the last 2 rows 4 times more.

11th row: moss 5; *slip the next 3 sts on to a cable needle to the back of the work; k3, p3 from cable needle; slip the next 3 sts on to a cable needle to the front of the work; p3, then k3 from cable needle; repeat from * to last 5sts; moss 5.
12th row: as first.
13th row: as second.
14th row: as first.
Repeat the 13th and 14th rows 4 times more.

23rd row: moss 5; *slip the next 3 sts on to a cable needle to the front of the work; p3, then k3 from cable needle; slip the next 3 sts on to a cable needle to the back of the work; k3, p3 from cable needle; repeat from * to last 5sts; moss 5.
24th row: as second.

These 24 rows form the pattern. Continue straight until the work measures 46 ins, ending with a 12th or 24th pattern row.

Next (decrease) row: moss 8 *k2tog; (p1, k1) 3 times; p2tog, repeat from * 3 times more; k2tog; (p1, k1) 4 times. [73sts].

Work 9 rows moss stitch over all stitches.
Cast off.

Finishing - Press work very lighty, taking care not to spoil th texture of the patttern. Cut the remainig wool into 7½ inch lengths; take 3 lengths of wool together each time, fold in half, and, with a crochet hook, knot through short ends to make a fringe. Trim fringe.

Substituting the wool - I used a vintage wool, Phildar Brisants. This is a fine double knitting, which is normally knitted on no. 9 (3¾mm) needles. The cabling make for a tighter tension, and the recommended needles (UK No 6) are 2 sizes larger than usual for a DK. I went with no. 8 needles, instead of 9s, but should have gone larger I think.
My scarf measures less than the 12 inches wide of the original; I knitted to the length I wanted.

If you want to use chunkier wool, then decrease the number of sts proportionally. The pattern is worked over 12sts.

Materials

Original call for 9oz of Patons Moorland Double Knitting

Example shown is knitted in Phildar Brisants.

One pair of No. 6 (5mm) needles.

Tension

Equivalent to 20st and 26rows to 4 inches (10cm) measured over stocking stitch.

Size matters

Width: 12 inches
Length: 46 inches

A word on the wool.

This pattern is for double knitting wool, and from memory Moorland DK was slightly heavy-weight.
You can knit a scarf in anything you want - obviously - see "Substituting the wool".

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions

Using No. 6 (5mm) needles cast on 72 stitches, and work 6 rows k1, p1 rib.

Increase row: K5, * m1 (make one st by picking up the loop between the stitches and knitting into the back of it), k4; repeat from * to the last 6sts, m1, k5. [88 sts].

**
Work 3 rows in stocking stitch, (one row plain, one row purl), starting with a purl row.

Right side of work facing, change to No. 3 (6½mm) needles and commence pattern.

Next pattern row: * K1, k1b; repeat from * to end.
[k1b = knit 1 below: insert needle through the centre of the stitch below the next stitch to be knitted, and knit off both stitches at the same time.]

Work 25 rows in the pattern.
[Editor's note: On an even number of stitches this produces a fisherman rib like stitch, which looks the same on both sides of the work.]

Change to number 6 (5mm) needles and work 3 rows in stocking stitch, starting with a purl row.
**

Increase row: K6, * m1, k4; repeat from * to the last 6sts, m1, k6. [108 sts].

Make a second pattern band by repeating from ** to **.

Increase row: K4, * m1, k4; repeat from * to the last 4sts, m1, k4. [134 sts].

Make a third pattern band by repeating from ** to **, but omit the final three st st rows, and, on this last segment, continue on the No. 3 needles and knit a further 5 pattern rows.

Cast off very loosely using a large gauge needle.

End panels - Using No. 7 (4½mm) needles, and wrong side of work facing, pick up and knit 56 sts purlwise.

Next row: (right side facing) K6, *k2tog, repeat from * to last 6 sts, k6. [34 sts].
Next row: K2, purl to the last 2 sts, k2.
Next row: K15, k2tog tbl, k2tog, K15 [32 sts].
Next row: K2, purl to the last 2 sts, k2.
Next row: K14, k2tog tbl, k2tog, K14 [32 sts].
Next row: K2, purl to the last 2 sts, k2.
Next row: K14, k2tog tbl, k2tog, K14 [32 sts].

Continue to decrease at the centre in this way until 6 sts remain.
Cast off tightly.

Repeat for the other side.

Finishing - Press the stocking-stitch end pieces lighty on the wrong side, using a warm iron and a damp cloth.
Sew in ends, and sew on fastener.
Swan around looking glamorous.

[Editor's notes: The original pattern had 5 segments. If you want to do that, work in the same way, with each pattern band at 25 rows and the following additional increase rows:

Increase row for fourth pattern band: K5, * m1, k5; repeat from * to the last 4sts, m1, k4. [160 sts].
Increase row for fifth pattern band: K3, * m1, k4; repeat from * to the last 2sts, m1, k2. [192 sts].

..and for the side panels pick up and knit 80 sts instead of 56, and decrease to 50 sts in the first decrease row.]

Materials

Example shown is knitted in 2 x 50g balls of an S. Charles Collezione yarn "Ritratto" - shade 64

One pair each of numbers 3, 6 and 7 (UK size) needles.

Fancy clasp available on the web from TextileGarden, or Purlescence, or Nordic Fiber Arts.

Tension

Approx. 16st and 32rows to 4 inches (10cm) measured over pattern using No 3 (6½mm) needles.

Size matters

Width around lower edge: 60 inches
Depth: 15 inches

A word on the wool.

"Ritratto" is a man-made fibre with 28% mohair; knits 22sts to 10cm on No 6 (5mm) needles; 50g ball is 198 yards and I used about 1½ balls for the project.

I think this would work out well using Rowan Kidsilk Haze (or Night or Splash), or in Rowan Damask, which has a slightly shiny silk thread running through the yarn.
Original pattern called for a 4 ply wool weight.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Cable Pattern

Row 1: P3, k6, p3.
Row 2: K3, p6, k3.
Rows 3-8: Repeat first and second rows 3 times.
Row 9: P3, c3f, p3. [c3f = cable 3 front by working across 6 sts as follows: slip next 3 sts on to a cable needle and leave at front of work, knit next 3 sts, then knit 3sts from the cable needle].
Row 10: K3, p6, k3.

These 10 rows form the pattern.

Special note: Wind 5 small balls of yarn in each colour. Use a separate ball for each cable and panel, and twist the colours where they meet to avoid gaps in work ("intarsia method").

Instructions

Using No. 10 needles and medium colour (M), cast on 106 stitches, and work 9 rows k1, p1 rib.

[Editor's note: If you work the beret in 2 colours then work over 2 needles as described. If you work in a single colour, you could work this in the round, reversing knit and purl sts on wrong side rows.]

Next row: (p1, p into front and back of next st) twice, * p2, p into front and back of next st, p1, p into front and back of next st; repeat from * to the last 7sts, (p1, p into front and back of next st) 3 times; p into front and back of last st. [150 sts].

Change to No 7 needles.

Next row: (right side) * k22 in M; join in light (L), k2, (k into front and back of next st) 4 time, k2; repeat from * to end. [170 sts].
Next row: (wrong side) * k3, p6, k3, (2nd row of cable pattern) in L; p22 in M; repeat from * to end.

Continue in stocking stitch and cable pattern, until work measures 5½ inches from beginning, finishing with right side facing for the next row.

Shape crown as follows:

Next row: * (k2tog, k7, k2tog tbl) twice in M; pattern 12 L; repeat from * to end. [150 sts].
Next row: * pattern 12 in L; P18 in M; repeat from * to end.
Next row: * (k2tog, k5, k2tog tbl) twice in M; pattern 12 L; repeat from * to end. [130 sts].
Next row: * pattern 12 in L; P14 in M; repeat from * to end.
Next row: * (k2tog, k3, k2tog tbl) twice in M; pattern 12 L; repeat from * to end. [110 sts].
Work 1 row.
Next row: * (k2tog, k1, k2tog tbl) twice in M; pattern 12 L; repeat from * to end. [90 sts].
Work 1 row.
Next row: * k3tog, k3tog tbl twice in M; pattern 12 L; repeat from * to end. [70 sts].
Break off M.

Next row: K3, * p6, k2, (p2tog) twice, k2; repeat from * to last 11sts; p6, k2, p3tog. [60 sts].
Next row: * p2tog, p1, pattern 6, p1, p2tog; repeat from * to end. [50 sts].
Next row: * p2tog, p6, p2tog; repeat from * to end. [40 sts].
Next row: * k2tog, k4, k2tog; repeat from * to end. [30 sts].
Next row: Purl.
Next row: * k2tog; repeat from * to end. [15 sts].

Break off wool leaving end. Thread end through remaining sts and draw up tightly. Fasten off securely.

Making up - Press lighty on the wrong side, using a warm iron and a damp cloth. Join seam, using a fine back stitch. Press seam.

Materials

Original pattern calls for 3oz of medium colour and 1oz light in an Aran weight yarn.
Example shown is knitted in 3 x 50g balls of a heavy vintage DK from Phildar.

One pair each of numbers 10 and 7 needles.

Tension

20st and 25 rows to 4 inches (10cm) on No 7 (4½mm) needles.

Size matters

Instructions to fit an "average" head (!).

A word on the wool.

I used Phildar yarns Oxygene (a DK) which knits 23st to 4 inches; and Frénésie (a heavy DK) which knits 19st to 4 inches.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any patterns it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions

Back and front are mainly knitted alike, but there is some additional detail on the welt at the front.
[Editor's note: So make sure you read the welt instructions for the front before just casting on the same as for the back.... and then have frog it and start again - as I did!].

Back

With No. 12 needles, cast on 112 (120) stitches in navy, and work 2 inches (20 rows) in k1, p1 rib.

**
Change to stocking stitch (1 row knit, 1 row purl), starting with a knit row, and work straight until back measures 5 inches from start, ending with a purl row (30 rows st st).

Join in white and continue in st st stripes as follows:

Row 1: right side facing, knit in white. Do not turn the work, but slip the sts back to other end of the needle.
Row 2: right side facing, knit in navy. Turn the work as normal.
Row 3: wrong side facing, purl in navy. Do not turn the work, but slip the sts back to other end of the needle.
Row 4: wrong side facing, purl in white. Turn the work as normal.
Row 5: right side facing, knit in navy. Turn the work as normal.
Row 6: wrong side facing, purl in navy. Turn the work as normal.

Continue in the striped pattern, and shape the sides by increasing 1 st at each end of the next and every following 6th row, until there are 134 (142) sts.
Meanwhile, when 17 navy stripes have been completed, continue in the striped pattern but use red instead of navy.
When the increasings are complete, continue in red and white until back measures 13 (13) inches down centre from the start.

Shape armholes as follows:
With right side facing, and continuing with red and white striped pattern, cast off 3 (4) sts at the beginning of the next two rows. Then, k2tog at each end of the next and every following 6th row until 122 (128) sts remain.
Work straight in striped sequence until 18 red stripes have been done in all, and ending with a white stripe, (right side facing for the next row).
Change to st st in navy and work straight for 16 rows. With right side facing, shape the armhole outwards, now, by increasing 1st at each end of the next and every following 6th row until there are 132 (138) sts. Change to number 11 (or the larger) needles and work 5 rows in k1, p1 rib.

Shape shoulder as follows (right side facing):
[Editor's note: At this point for the front, I adapted the front neck to give it some additional shaping. See "Adapting the Front Neck" section]
Next 2 rows: Rib to the last 4 sts, turn; rib to the last 4 sts, turn.
Next 2 rows: Rib to the last 8 sts, turn; rib to the last 8 sts, turn.
Next 2 rows: Rib to the last 12 sts, turn; rib to the last 12 sts, turn.
Next 2 rows: Rib to the last 16 sts, turn; rib to the last 16 sts, turn.
Next 2 rows: Rib to the last 20 sts, turn; rib to the last 20 sts, turn.
Next 2 rows: Rib to the last 24 sts, turn; rib to the last 24 sts, turn.
Next 2 rows: Rib to the last 28 sts, turn; rib to the last 28 sts, turn.
Next 2 rows: Rib to the last 32 sts, turn; rib to the last 32 sts, turn.
Next 2 rows: Rib to the last 36 sts, turn; rib to the last 36 sts, turn.

Next row: Rib to end, picking up loop where row was turned each time and knitting it together with the the next st to avoid a hole
Next row: Rib back across all sts, picking up loop where row was turned each time and knitting it together with the the next st as before.

Cast off right across very loosely in rib.

Front

With No. 12 needles, cast on 140 (148) stitches in navy, and work 2 inches (20 rows) in k1, p1 rib.
Next row: Rib first 14 (14) sts and slip onto a safety pin; rib to the last 14 (14) sts, turn, slipping the last 14 (14) sts onto another safety pin. Continue on the centre 112 (120) sts.

Work as for back from ** to **.

[Editor's note: I adapted the front neck to give it some additional shaping. See "Adapting the Front Neck" section]

To make up

Press parts carefully on wrong side under a damp cloth. With navy wool and number 12 needles, continue in rib on each of the sets of 14 sts on safety pins until piece measures 5 inches from start. Cast off in rib. Join these ribbed pieces to sides of front.
Now join sides of main work, leaving ribbed pieces free to fold over to back, then sew in position with 2 large pearl buttons, as shown in the photograph. Catch down overlaps to main work along lower edge.
Face armholes on wrong side with bias binding.

[Editor's note: This is to stop the edges of the armholes from curling over, as there is no additional knitted edging.]

Now fold neck edge of front over to back along shoulder edges by ½ inch. Sew two buttons on each shoulder through double thickness to secure shoulders. Press seams.

Materials

Original pattern calls for 4oz of 3ply in light navy and 1 oz each in lipstick red and white.
Example shown is knitted in 3 x 50g balls of navy 4ply cotton and 1 ball each of red and white.

One pair of No 12 double pointed needles (or a circular needle) and one pair No 11 needles.

8 large pearl buttons and bias binding.

Tension

32st and 40 rows to 4 inches (10cm) on No 12 (2½ mm) needles, using the 4 ply wool. (original pattern calls for No 11 needles and 3ply).

Size matters

Instructions for two slim fitting sizes: 34-35 (36-37) inch bust; length from top of shoulders 20½ (20½) inches.

A word on the wool.

For the navy and white I used a vintage Hayfield soft cotton 4ply, and for the red I used Jaeger Sienna (also a pure cotton 4ply). I used 11 and 12 needles which are a size smaller needles than stated in the original pattern, and with these I managed to achieve the required tension.
[Editor's note: I only just had enough wool for this project (smaller size): 3 balls of Navy at 165.5m (181yds), and one of Sienna at 140m (153 yards). It was a VERY close run thing; I had only inches left.]

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions

Using the dressmakers paper, make a paper pattern from the graphs (Figs 1 and 2) and, using fabric scraps, or fat quarters, cut patches at least approximately 4 inches by 4 inches, according to the patch shapes you have chosen. Lay the patchwork pieces out on a table until there are enough to make a Back, two Fronts, two Sleeves and two Pockets. Remember to evenly distribute the colours so you don't run out of one particular fabric.

Join the patches together by hand or (preferably) machine. Make the area of fabric required for each pattern piece.
[Editors note: This pattern allows for half inch seams throughout.]

For the sleeves, make two pieces of patchwork, each 22 inches by 15½ inches. For the back make one piece, 35½ inches by 26 inches, and, for the fronts, two pieces, each 36 inches by 12½ inches. For the pockets make two pieces, each 9 inches by 8½ inches. Pin the pattern pieces to the patchwork, and cut: one back on the fold; two sleeves; two fronts (remember these must be a left and right mirror image of each other); and two pockets. Pin the paper pattern pieces to the lining fabric and cut out the same pieces.
[Editors note: Patchwork is better lined unless it is something small like a toy.]

Pockets: Place the pocket linings against right sides of pockets, and machine stitch around 3 sides, leaving the top open. Turn the pockets and press, (3 edges are enclosed in the lining). Cut two pocket facings from the facing fabric, each 9 inches by 4 inches. Turn in the short edges of the facings so that they are the same width as the pockets. Place one longer (raw) facing edge to the top raw edge of the pocket and sew in place. Turn facing to inside, tuck raw edge under and stitch. Repeat with the other pocket. Pin pockets to robe fronts in positions indicated on the graph, and top stitch in place.

Sewing up: Tack the patchwork fronts to the lining fronts, wrong sides together. Tack and machine stitch the patchwork layer of the back only to the fronts along the shoulder seams and down the side seams, working on the wrong side. Machine the back lining to the shoulder seams, enclosing all the raw edges, and hem down the side seams. Sew the patchwork sleeve seams, with the raw edges on the wrong side, as usual, and then with right side to right side, ease the sleeves into the armholes; pin, tack and sew. Sew sleeve lining seams, wrong side to wrong side, and hem into place. Tack lining to patchwork all around the edges of the garment.

Facings: From the facing fabric, cut one belt 78 inches by 5 inches, two belt slots, each 3 inches by 2½ inches, two front facings each 39 by 4 inches, one hem 52 inches by 5 inches, and two cuffs, each 21 inches by 5 inches.
[Editors note: For the facings, I cut binding strips 1½in wide on the straight grain of the fabric except for the neck edge as this is curved; here, I cut a strip on the bias and applied it separately, all around the back neck and extending just beyond the shoulder seam. If you don't feel up to making your own binding then you can purchase ready-made bias binding.]
Pin, tack and sew the edge of the facings to the edges of the coat. Turn facings to wrong side, fold under raw edges and hand sew to finish. Finish off cuffs in the same way.
Make up the belt by folding the piece in half lengthwise, and seam along one edge, leaving one end open. Turn the belt so the the seams are on the inside, and press the belt flat. Finish the open end by turning the raw edges inside, and slip stitch in place.
Make up the belt slots and stitch into place at the waist. Pull the belt through the belt slots.

Materials

2½m (112cm width) plain lining fabric.

Fabric scraps, or about 10 fat quarters quilt fabric (usually 112cm or 44 inches wide).

2m cotton fabric for facings (or bias binding).

Dressmaker's squared paper - 1 inch grid (I found only in centimetre grids on the web - 2ins=5cm)

Size matters

One size fits all. However for my version, I altered the pattern below to make it slightly smaller (to fit me); however, as a wrap, it can be worn over-size.

A word on the design

I used floral hexagons for my robe. The original was shown with rectangular patches. See "adaptations".

Lace Pattern

Row 1: (right side) k1, wfwd, sl1, k1, psso, k1, * k1, k2tog, wind wool twice round needle, sl1, k1, psso, k1; repeat from * to last 4 sts: k1, k2tog, wfwd, k1.
Row 2: k1, p3, * p2, [k1, p1] into "made" loops of previous row, p2; repeat from * to last 4 sts: p3, k1.
Row 3: k2, wfwd, sl1, k1, psso, * k2tog, wfwd, k2, wfwd, sl1, k1, psso; repeat from * to last 4 sts: k2tog, wfwd, k2.
Row 4: k1, purl to the last st, k1.
Row 5: k2, k2tog, * wind wool twice round needle, sl1, k1, psso, k2, k2tog; repeat from * to last 4 sts: wind wool twice round needle, sl1, k1, psso, k2.
Row 6: k1, p2, [k1, p1] into made loops, * p4, [k1, p1] into made loops; repeat from * to last 3sts: p2, k1.
Row 7: k1, k2tog, wfwd, k1, * k1, wfwd, sl1, k1, psso, k2tog, wfwd, k1; repeat from * to last 4 sts: k1, wfwd, sl1, k1, psso, k1.
Row 8: k1, purl to the last st, k1.

Instructions

Back and front alike.

With No. 13 needles, cast on 114 (126) stitches, and work 4 inches in k1, p1 rib.
With right side facing, change to No. 11 needles, and commence working in stocking stitch (1 row knit, 1 row purl), starting with a knit row. Increase at each end of the 11^th and every following 6^th row, until there are 132 (144) sts. Then increase at each end of the following 4^th row: 134 (146) sts. Next row: purl.

[Editor's note: I worked both sides together in the round, (so every round knit) up to the start of the armhole pattern, when I split the work, and continued each side separately. Mark the sides with st markers to aid placement of the increases.]

Introduce lace pattern at the centre:
Next row: k60 (66), pattern 14sts as 1^st row of lace pattern, k60 (66).
Next row: p60 (66), pattern 14sts as 2^nd row of lace pattern, p60 (66).
Continue in lace pattern and stocking stitch thus for a further 6 rows, increasing 1 st at each end of the next and following 4^th row, [138 (150) sts].

Next row: Inc in 1^st st, k55 (61), pattern 26sts as 1^st row of lace pattern, k55 (61), Inc in last st.
Work a further 7 rows in lace pattern and stocking stitch thus, increasing 1 st at each end of every alternate row, [146 (158) sts].

Introduce lace pattern at sleeve edges:
[Editor's note: If you are working in the round, then you need to split the work at this point and continue each side separately.]

Next row: pattern 14sts as 1^st row of lace pattern; k40 (46); pattern 38sts as 1^st row of lace pattern; k40 (46); pattern 14sts as 1^st row of lace pattern.
Work a further 7 rows in lace pattern and stocking stitch.

Divide for neck as follows:

Row 1: pattern 14sts as 1^st row of lace pattern; k34 (40); k1, wfwd, sl1, k1, psso, k1, * k1, k2tog, wind wool twice round needle, sl1, k1, psso, k1; repeat from * twice more, k1, k2tog, turn, and leave remaining sts on a spare needle.
Row 2: k1, p3, * p2, [k1, p1] into "made" loops of previous row, p2; repeat from * twice more, p3, k1, p34 (40), pattern 14st.
Row 3: pattern 14sts, k34 (40); k2, wfwd, sl1, k1, psso, * k2tog, wfwd, k2, wfwd, sl1, k1, psso; repeat from * to last 2 sts: k2tog.
Row 4: k1, p21, k1, p34 (40), pattern 14st.
Row 5: pattern 14sts, k34 (40); k2, k2tog, * wind wool twice round needle, sl1, k1, psso, k2, k2tog; repeat from * twice more: k1.
Row 6: k1, * p4, [k1, p1] into made loops; repeat from * twice more: p2, k1, p34 (40), pattern 14st.
Row 7: pattern 14sts, k34 (40); k1, k2tog, wfwd, k1, * k1, wfwd, sl1, k1, psso, k2tog, wfwd, k1; repeat from * once more: k1, wfwd, sl1, k1, psso, k2tog, k1.
Row 8: k1, p19, k1, p34 (40), pattern 14st.
Row 9: pattern 14sts as 1^st row of lace pattern, k28 (34); k1, wfwd, sl1, k1, psso, k1, * k1, k2tog, wind wool twice round needle, sl1, k1, psso, k1; repeat from * twice more, k1, k2tog, wfwd, k2tog.

Continue in pattern, decreasing 1st at neck edge on every alternate row, and at the same time, taking an extra 6 sts into lace pattern at neck edge on every following 1^st pattern row until 49 (51) sts remain, ending with right side facing for next row. At this point 9 (10) complete patterns have been done from the start of the lace pattern.

Now work over all stitches in pattern, still decreasing 1 st at neck edge on next and following 3 alternate rows. [45 (47) sts]
Next row: in pattern.
[Editor's note: I lengthened the armhole here, kntting one further 8-row pattern to make the armhole measure 7 inches over my tension on the smaller size (actually I think I should have knitted the larger size); I did not decrease at the neck edge on these additional rows. Lengthening the armhole is fine but remember you are also lowering the V neck when you add rows here, and if you do it too much you may end up turning "pretty low-cut style for evenings" into something far more racy!.]

Shape shoulder as follows (right side facing):

Next row: Cast off 12 (14) sts, pattern to last 2 sts, K2tog.
Next row: in pattern.
Next row: Cast off 6 sts, pattern to last 2 sts, K2tog.
Next row: in pattern.
Repeat the last 2 rows once more.
Now, keeping the neck edge straight, continue to shape the shoulder by casting off 6 sts at the beginning of the next, and following 2 alternate rows. Fasten off.

With right side facing, rejoin the wool to the remaining sts and work the other side of the neck as follows:

Row 1: k2tog, k1, * k1, k2tog, wind wool twice round needle, sl1, k1, psso, k1; repeat from * twice more; k1, k2tog, wfwd, k1; k34 (40); pattern 14sts as 1^st row of lace pattern.
Row 2: pattern 14sts, p34 (40); k1, p3, * p2, [k1, p1] into "made" loops of previous row, p2; repeat from * to last 2 sts: p1, k1.
Row 3: k2tog, * k2tog, wfwd, k2, wfwd, sl1, k1, psso; repeat from * twice more; k2tog, wfwd, k2; k34 (40); pattern 14.
Row 4: pattern 14, p34 (40), k1, p21, k1.
Row 5: k2tog, k3, k2tog, * wind wool twice round needle, sl1, k1, psso, k2, k2tog; repeat from * once more; wind wool twice round needle, sl1, k1, psso, k2; k34 (40); pattern 14.
Row 6: pattern 14, p34 (40), k1, p2, [k1, p1] into made loops; * p4, [k1, p1] into made loops; repeat from * once more: p4, k1.
Row 7: k2tog, k1, k2tog, wfwd, k1, * k1, wfwd, sl1, k1, psso, k2tog,wfwd, k1; repeat from * once more; k1, wfwd, sl1, k1, psso, k1; k34 (40); pattern 14.
Row 8: pattern 14, p34 (40), k1, p19, k1.
Row 9: k2tog, wfwd, sl1, k1, psso, k1, * k1, k2tog, wind wool twice round needle, sl1, k1, psso, k1; repeat from * twice more: k1, k2tog, wfwd, k1, k28 (34), pattern 14sts as 1^st row of lace pattern.

Finish to correspond with the other side of the neck.

Making up - Press stocking stitch parts only on the wrong side under a damp cloth. Join shoulder and side seams. Press seams.

Crochet edging - Using the main colour, work a row of double crochet (US single crochet) all round neck and sleeve edges.

Embroidery - Using 2 strands of stranded cotton, embroider 4 petal loop stitch flowers in centre of diamonds round neck edge and sleeves, as shown in the photograph, then add a jewel or sequin to the centre of each flower.
[Editor's note: I omitted the embroidery and used 28 (a whole packet) of Gutermann beads distributed around the neck at the front.]

Materials

Original pattern calls for 5oz of 3-ply.
Example shown is knitted in 3 x 50g balls of vintage 3ply.
See "substituting the wool"

One pair each of numbers 13 and 11 needles. Number 12 crochet hook.

Jewels (5mm) or sequins and stranded cotton for embroidery.

Tension

32st and 40 rows to 4 inches (10cm) on No 11 (3mm) needles.

Size matters

Instructions for two slim fitting sizes: 33-35 (36-38) inch bust; length from top of shoulders 18½ (19¼) inches.

A word on the wool.

I used an old Phildar yarn (Loisirs) which knits 30st to 4inches; Phildar Luxe is a quality fine yarn in a fair range of colours - but both these yarns are mixed fibres with only 15% wool.
See "substituting the wool"

Disclaimer

(well...almost a disclaimer...)
In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this lace pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Instructions

Begin at the widest part. With No. 11 (the larger) hook make 260 chain, very loosely.

Row 1: Miss 1ch, * 1dc in next ch, 7ch, miss 5ch; repeat from * to last chain; 1dc in last ch; turn.
Row 2: 4slip sts in next 4ch, * 7ch, 1dc in centre of next 7ch loop; repeat from* to end, turn.

Continue, repeating 2^nd row, thus decreasing one trellis pattern on every row, until only one trellis pattern remains to be worked in the centre.
Fasten off.

Flower border - With No. 12 (the smaller) hook make 12 chain, and join in a ring with a slip st.

First round: 3ch. (this counts as one dbl tr), work 26 dbl trs through centre of ring, and join to top of he 3ch with a slip st.
Second round: * 16ch, 1ss into 10^th ch from hook, 6ch, miss 2 dbl trs, 1 ss into next dbl tr. Repeat from * to end. Fasten off.
[Editor's note: Don't forget this is a UK crochet pattern, and these are UK dbl trs; if in doubt, link to "Terminology" in the side bar.]

Make 14 more in the same way.

Making up - Press lighty on the wrong side under a damp cloth.

Make a long strip of flowers by joining (sewing) the tip of one petal of one flower to the adjoining tip of petal of another flower.

Join this strip to sloping sides of main part - seven petals along each side, and one at the top of the triangle; catch the tips of two petals of each flower to the main work to secure the border.

Give a final press, pinning out the flower points.

Materials

Original pattern calls for a ½oz ball of "Fine Ply".

Example in hand-painted cobweb lace wool (100m skeins about 9g) purchased from Alchemy Fibre Arts eBay shop.

Numbers 11 (3mm) and 12 (2.5mm) crochet hooks.

Tension

One trellis pattern measures ¾in on no. 11 hook.

Size

Approximately 36 inches at the widest part.

A word on the wool.

There were quite a few patterns for very fine scarves and shawls in cobweb wools, and as their name suggests they are very fine gauge.
You could knit this in other yarn weights - for example, Rowan Kidsilk Haze - and simply produce a fichu of a different (larger) size.

Instructions

With No. 8 needles, cast on 338 stitches loosely, and work 4 rows stocking stitch starting with a knit row.

**Next (eyelet) row: K2 *wool forward, K2tog.; repeat from * to last 2 sts, K2.
Work a further 5 rows in stocking stitch, starting with a purl row.**

Make hem - on next row by knitting 1st from the needle together with 1st from the cast-on edge. Work 7 rows in stocking stitch, starting with a purl row. Repeat sections from ** to ** once more.
Make another hem on the next row, but this time instead of knitting the sts together with the cast on row, you pick up and knit into a previous row as follows:- taking a spare double pointed (or circular) needle, pick up 338 sts along back of work, 4 rows below the row of eyelet holes; now knit 1st from the needle together with 1st from the spare needle.
[Editor's note: this can be tough as the picked up sts are very tight. I used one double pointed needle and picked up the 338 sts in sections as I went along the row].

Next row: wrong side facing, K4, * P30, K30; repeat from * to last 34 sts; P30, K4.
Next row: knit.
Repeat these 2 rows 6 times more and then the 1st row again.
[Editor's note: If you need to lengthen the cape, here would be the time to consider it].

Start shaping
Next row: right side facing, K4, (K2tog, K13) 22 times, K4.
*Next row: K4, (P28, K28) 5 times, P28, K4.
Next row: knit.
Repeat from * once more then 1st row again (316 sts).

Next row: K4, (K2tog, K12) 22 times, K4.
*Next row: K4, (P26, K26) 5 times, P26, K4.
Next row: knit.
Repeat from * once more then 1st row again (294 sts).

Next row: K4, (K2tog, K11) 22 times, K4.
*Next row: K4, (P24, K24) 5 times, P24, K4.
Next row: knit.
Repeat from * once more then 1st row again (272 sts).

Continue in this way, decreasing 22 sts on next and every following 6th row, (remembering you will be working 1st fewer after the K2tog on each decrease row) until 96 sts remain.
[Editor's note: if you need to lengthen the cape, consider it again throughout these decreases; instead of decreasing every 6th row you could decrease on the 8th row a couple of times - adding 4 exra rows - or as many times as you need.].
Change to No. 11 (smaller) needles and work 8 rows in pattern;
[Editor's note: another chance to lengthen the cape if you have a swan-like neck!].
break wool and leave sts on a spare needle.

Neckband
With No. 11 needles, cast on 96 stitches, and work 4 rows stocking stitch starting with a knit row.
**Next (eyelet) row: K2 *wool forward, K2tog.; repeat from * to last 2 sts, K2. Work 5 rows straight in stocking stitch, starting with a purl row.**
Make a hem on the next row, exactly as given for the first hem on the lower edge.
Work 7 rows in stocking stitch, starting with a purl row. Repeat sections from ** to ** once more.
Now make a second hem on the next row, exactly as given for the second hem round the lower edge.
Next row: wrong side facing, K4, (P8, K8) 5 times; P8, K4.
Next row: knit.

Join neckband and main body

Place the needle with the neck sts and the spare needle with the body sts together, with right sides (facing each other) together, and cast off the two sets of stitches together.
[Editor's note: to cast off together, you knit together 1 st from one needle, and one from the other, and pass the knitted sts on the RH needle over each other as usual for casting off].

Making up
Press the cape only very lightly on the wrong side under a damp cloth.
[Editor's note: you don't want to flatten out the pattern sts or the wool texture].
Work a row of double crochet (that is, US single crochet) up both front edges, then a row of slip sts, taking care to leave the picot hems free.
Sew on hook and eye below the hems at the neck edge on the wrong side of the work. Sew on two decorative buttons at the neck edge, as seen in the photograph.

The detail shows the mixture of stocking stitch and garter stitch gored panels, which gives the shoulder cape such a perfect drape. The hem is formed by a double folded picot edging, which is reproduced at the neck.

Materials

Original pattern calls for 2 oz angora wool.
This equates to just over 50g.

One pair each of number 8 and number 11 needles.
One crochet hook, number 13.

Two decorative gold buttons, and hook and eye for fastening at the neck.

Tension

28st to 4 inches (10cm) on No 8 (4mm) needles.

Size matters

One size fits all! However - I did lengthen the cape by about one inch overall, as I found that although the tension was as stated in sts per inch, the length seemed shorter than depicted.

A word on the wool

I used a vintage wool from Pingouin called Volutes (80% acrylic 20% mohair), which I chose from my stash mainly for its rich colour. It knits to a tension of 23sts x 34rows on No. 11-12 (3-2½mm) needles, thus I knitted the cape on smaller needles than the pattern stated to achieve the right tension. I think the cape really needs to be knitted in a true luxury yarn, such as angora, or cashmere. Rowan's Kidsilk Haze could be suitable but the smallest tension on No. 10 needles is quoted as 25sts to 4in.

Instructions

Knitted to a basic shape as follows:

Back - cast on 88 sts. Knit in your own pattern for 7 or 8 inches.
Cast off 10 stitches at each side for the armhole.
Knit until armhole measures 8 inches.
Cast off 8 sts at the beginning of the next 6 rows. Cast off remaining sts.

Right front - cast on 36 sts. Knit to pattern increasing 1st at the beginning of every alternate row until there are 44 sts. (This forms a curved front edge).
Continue to knit for 7 or 8 inches to match the back ending with wrong side facing.
Cast off 10 sts at the beginning of the next wrong side row.
Knit until armhole measures 6 inches, (about 12 rows fewer than the back), ending with right side facing. Cast off 5 sts at the beginning of next row (the neck edge); then decrease 1 st at the neck edge on the next and every alternate row until 23 sts remain, ending at the armhole edge.
With wrong side facing, cast off 8 sts at the beginning of the next and following alternate row. Work one row and then cast off remaining sts.

Left front - work to match the right front, reversing all shapings.

Sleeves - cast on 56 sts and work for 2 inches, then increase 1 st at each end of next and every following 6th row to 76 sts. Work straight to 15 inches from beginning. Cast off.

Crochet border - a simple row of double crochet and then a crochet shell pattern (1 dc; miss 2; 5 tr into next stitch; miss 2; then repeat).

Make up - sew shoulders and side seams. Set sleeves into the armholes, placing 2 ins at the sleeve top to the cast off sts at the underarm, and sewing up the sleeve seams.
Crochet a border all around front edges and cuffs.
Attach a cord or ribbon to the neck edge to tie.

Materials

Self-styled free form pattern, knitting a mixture of rows in plain and purl, using wools from 4ply through to a chunky boucle and including ribbon yarn.

Tie made from twisted cord or ribbon.

Size matters

Tension (average over different yarn weights):
22st to 4 inches (10cm) on No 8 (4mm) needles.
The instructions knit up to approximately a 32/34inch chest.