Pattern of the Month

Beautiful Brioche Jacket

Another wonderfully cosy brioche knit - this time a cardigan, using two vibrant colours. Fisherman's rib - or brioche as it now seems to be called, (no link to French bread as far as I can see) - is fantastically squishy and lovely - well worth the effort.

Instructions

3 sizes - larger sizes are given between brackets -
eg Small (Medium, Large).

[Editor's note: If you are not familiar with fisherman rib stitch or brioche worked with two colours, it should be quite easy to pick up from the instructions below, once you understand that you do two rows with right side facing (one in each colour) and then two wrong side rows (one in each colour) - hence the need for double-pointed needles.
There is however a big BUT - which is that you do have to careful when increasing and decreasing, so it might be a good idea to practise a little before you start. On the other hand, by the time you get to the shaping, you should be adept enough to see and understand the way the stitches are formed - just make sure by counting a couple of times that you have actually decreased the stitches where required.]

Striped Fisherman Rib Pattern

The two-colour brioche pattern has to be worked on needles or circular with points at both ends.

1st row (wrong side): With A, k1; * p1, slip1pw, yrn; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p1, k1.
Return to opposite end of row.

2nd row (wrong side): With B, k1; yft, slip1pw, * yon, knit the next stitch together with the loop made on the previous row, yft, slip1pw; repeat from * to last stitch, yon, k1.
3rd row (right side): With A, k1, knit the next stitch together with the loop made on the previous row, * yft, slip1pw, yon, knit the next stitch together with the loop made on the previous row; repeat from * to the last stitch, k1.
Return to opposite end of row.

4th row (right side): With B, k1, yft, * slip1pw, yrn, purl the next stitch together with the loop made on the previous row; repeat from * to the last 2 stitches, slip1pw, yon, k1.
5th row (wrong side): With A, k1, yft, purl the next stitch together with the loop made on the previous row, * slip1pw, yrn, purl the next stitch together with the loop made on the previous row; repeat from * to the last stitch, k1.
Return to opposite end of row.

The last 4 rows from 2nd to 5th inclusive, form the pattern.

Important notes on the brioche pattern:

When counting the number of stitches, do not count the "made" loops as stitches, as they will be knitted together with the adjacent stitch.
When counting rows, each knit rib which you can see counts as 2 rows.
When casting off stitches at the top of the back and centre front, take care to cast off loosely in single rib as the stitches appear and either knit or purl the "made" loop together with the correct stitch as usual, but do not make any fresh loops.

Back

Using No 11 (3mm) needles, and main colour A, cast on 103 (107, 111) stitches and work in single rib:

1st row (right side): K1; * p1, k1; repeat from * to end.
2nd row: P1; * k1, p1; repeat from * to end.

Repeat these two rows until work measures 3 inches from the beginning, ending with 1st rib row.

Change to No 9 (3¾mm) needles, join in contrast B, and work in fisherman rib pattern as given above.

Continue without shaping until work measures 15½ (16, 17) inches from the beginning, ending with a wrong side row.

Raglan Shaping:

Decrease 1 stitch at both ends of every alternate row 9 (8, 8) times, then at both ends of every following 4th row 28 (30, 31) times.

Cast off remaining 29 (31, 33) stitches for back neck.

Right Front

Using No 11 needles, and main colour A, cast on 53 (55, 57) stitches and work in rib as on back welt for the same number of rows.

Change to No 9 needles, join in contrast B, and work in fisherman rib pattern; continue until work measures the same as the back to the beginning of the armhole shaping ending with the same pattern row.

Raglan and Front Shaping:
Decrease 1 stitch at the side edge - either at end of a right-side row or at the beginning of a wrong-side row - on every alternate row 9 (8, 8) times, then on every following 4th row 28 (30, 31) times; at the same time, after 16 rows have been worked from the beginning of the raglan, decrease 1 stitch at the front edge on the next row, then every following 8th row 13 (13, 12) times, then every following 6th row 0 (1, 3) times.
After the last raglan decrease, cast off the remaining 2 stitches.

Left Front

Work as for Right Front reversing all shapings.

Sleeves

Using No 11 needles, and main colour A, cast on 51 (53, 55) stitches and work in rib for one row less than the back welt.

Increase row (right side): Rib 7, [double increase, rib 11 (9, 7)] 3 (4, 5) times, double increase, rib 7 (5, 7). [59 (63, 67) sts]

Change to No 9 needles, and work in pattern, but increase 1 stitch at both ends of every following 10th row 9 (13, 18) times, then every following 8th row 9 (5, 0) times, working the extra stitches into the pattern.

Continue on 95 (99, 103) stitches until work measures 16½ (17, 18) inches from the beginning, ending with a wrong side row.

Raglan Shaping:

Work exactly as for the Back raglan, and after the last decrease row, cast off the remaining 21 (23, 25) stitches.

Front Border

Using No 11 needles, and main colour A, cast on 13 stitches, and work in rib as follows:

1st row (right side): K2; [p1, k1] 5 times; k1.
2nd row: [K1, p1] 6 times; k1.
Repeat these two rows twice more, then make buttonhole.

Next row: Rib 5, cast off 3, rib to end.
On the following row cast on 3 stitches over the buttonhole.
Continue in the same rib making 4 more buttonholes, each 3¾ (4, 4¼) inches above cast-off edge of previous one then continue until the border - when slightly stretched - fits along both front edges and across the sleeve tops and the back neck; leave stitches on a safety pin without cutting the yarn.

Make Up

Join the raglan seams, taking care to match the vertical stripes.
Join side and sleeve seams.
Pin the front border in place with buttonholes to the right front, and stretching it slightly around the neckline so that it fits well. Adjust the length if necessary, then cast off ribwise.
Sew the border in place as pinned, then sew on the buttons to correspond with the buttonholes.

You should not press or iron any of the single or fisherman rib.

Materials

Double Knitting yarn, 50g balls:
7 (8, 9) in main colour A - bright teal;
6 (7, 8) in contrast colour B - purple.

One pair of No 11 (3mm) needles, and two (long) double pointed needles or circular, No 9 (3¾mm) for working the pattern.

5 buttons.

Tension

20 sts x 50 rows to 4 inches measured over pattern; work a sample on 25 stitches beginning with 2 rows of rib in contrast A then continue in pattern.

Size matters

To fit chest 32-34, (36, 38-40)
actual measurement
shown on diagram in cm.

Abbreviations:

k/p: knit/purl
double increase: into next stitch, purl into front, then knit into back, then purl again into front of same stitch.
slip1pw: slip the next stitch inserting needle into it as if it were a purl.
yft: yarn to front.
yon: yarn over needle.
yrn: yarn round needle.

A Word on the Wool

The original yarn was a standard double knitting wool (50% ) mix, with acrylic (40%) and mohair (10%). The quoted yardage was 125 meters, (137 yds), per 50g ball.

Disclaimer
(well...almost))

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Posted by Christina | Permalink | Comments (0)

Seventies Glamour

Here we have the "maxi" - the new "thing" after the stunning popularity of the mini skirt, which had become de rigeur for almost a decade since it's scandalous introduction in the early sixties. The maxi didn't really take on in quite the same way - often not as convenient or appropriate for every occasion (and, I have to wonder, on what occasion would this be truly appropriate). However, half a century later, our skirt lengths are now routinely mini, maxi, or, of course, "midi".
Nonetheless, I'm not sure how many of you will be rushing off to find your needles and get started. In truth, despite their trying very hard with the styling of the photo, I'm not sure how many people it would have appealed to even at the time, (up-to-the-minute maxis? yes; woollen hand-knitted skirts? hmmm). The presentation is typical of the era - a "look" for an implied lifestyle - you have Habitat furniture and shop in the Portobello Road. I think the inclusion of the harp - more as an objet d'art than a musical instrument (you might hang your hat on it, or casually start to play...) - is intended to suggest the seventies off-beat bohemian lifestyle aspired to by those who would a decade later be called yuppies.

Nice and cosy alternative to sweat pants or pyjamas under the desk for working from home...?

Instructions.

Instructions for 4 sizes are given between "/".
[Editor's Note: This is the "maxi" skirt]

Back and Front alike

Using No 10 (3¼mm) needles and main shade M, cast on 140/148/156/164 stitches and, starting with a knit row, work 7 rows stocking stitch, increasing 5 stitches evenly across the last row.
[145/153/161/169 sts]

Next Row (wrong side): knit, thus forming ridge for hem-line.

Change to No 8 (4mm) needles and, starting with a knit row, work 8 rows stocking stitch.

** Join in contrast yarn C and work 2 rows in stocking stitch.

Change to No 7 (4½mm) needles and work rows 1 - 22 inclusive from chart A.

Repeat the 8 pattern stitches across, with the last stitch on knit rows and the first stitch on purl rows as indicated.

Change to No 8 needles and work 2 rows instocking stitch in C. Break C. **

Work 10 rows straight.

1st decrease row: (k 10/11/12/13, k2togtbl) twice, knit to last 24/26/28/30 stitches, (k2tog, k 10/11/12/13) twice.
Work 9 rows straight.

2nd decrease row: as 1st. [137/145/153/161 sts]

Work straight until skirt measures 9 inches from ridge at hemline, ending with a purl row.

Work from ** to **.

*** Work 4 rows straight.
Next decrease row: as 1st.
Work 5 rows straight.

Repeat the last 6 rows twice, then the decrease row once more. ***
121/129/137/145 stitches remain.

Work a few rows straight until skirt measures 17 inches from ridge at hemline, ending with a purl row.

Work from ** to **, then work from *** to ***.
[105/113/121/129 sts]

Work straight until skirt measures 25 inches from ridge at hemline, ending with a purl row.

**** Join in C. and work 2 rows stocking stitch.

Change to No 7 needles and work rows 1 - 14 inclusive from chart B.

Change to No 8 needles and work 2 rows stocking stitch in C.
Break C. ****

Work from *** to ***.
[89/97/105/113 sts]

Work straight until skirt measures 31¾ inches from ridge at hemline, ending with a purl row.

Work from **** to ****.
Work 2 rows stocking stitch.

Next decrease row: as1st.
Work 3 rows straight.
Repeat the last 4 rows 0/1/1/2 times more.

Next decrease row: as1st. [81/85/93/97 sts]

Work a few rows straight until skirt measures 36½ /37/37/37½ inches from ridge at hemline, ending with a knit row.

Next row: p 7/10/8/12, (p2tog, p 11/19/13/22) 5/3/5/3 times, p2tog, p 7/10/8/11. [75/81/87/93 sts]

Change to No 10 needles and work 1 inch k1/p1 rib, with rows on the right side having a k1 at each end.
Cast off evenly in rib.

Belt

Using No 10 needles, cast on 11 stitches and work in rib as follows
1st row(right side facing): k2, (p1, k1) 4 times, k1.
2nd row: (k1, p1) 5 times, k1.

Repet the last 2 rows until belt measures 30/32/34/36 inches or the required length.
Cast off in rib.

To Make Up

Special Note: Use a tapestry needle and 12 inch lengths of yarn for sewing, taking care that the yarn remains twisted during making up.

Using a warm iron and damp cloth, press parts lightly on the wrong side, omitting ribbing.
Join side seams.
Fold hem at ridge to wrong side and slip stitch the hem loosely in position all round.
Cut elastic to fit waist and join in a ring; sew inside waist ribbing, using herringbone stitch over the elastic to form a casing.
Press seams.
Make a backing for the belt with the petersham and attach the buckle to one end.

Materials

10/11/12/12 (1 oz) balls double knitting yarn in main shade, chilli, and
4/5/5/6 in contrast shade, pink.

Pair each of Nos 7 (4½mm), 8 (4mm), and 10 (3¼mm) needles.

Length of elastic for waist.
Buckle and length of petersham for belt.

Tension

23sts and 30 rows to 4 inches using No 8 (4mm) needles.

Size matters

To fit:
34 / 36 / 38 / 40 inch hips;
Length: 37½ / 38 / 38 / 38½ inches.

Abbreviations:

stocking stitch: one row knit and one row purl, ("stockinette").
k2tog: knit 2 stitches together to decrease 1 stitch.
p2tog: purl 2 stitches together to decrease 1 stitch.
k2togtbl: knit 2 stitches together through back loops, (or "ssk": slip, slip, knit).

M = main colour
C = contrast

A Word on the Wool

The original design was in Patons Fiona - a yarn I was very fond of, both in quality and rich colour range. It was a standard DK; some information given on the web implies it was slightly thicker and others slightly thinner.

In the 1970s it was sold in 50g balls: 175 yds/160m meters); 51% wool, 49% acrylic.

Disclaimer
(well...almost)

In transposing any pattern it is always a risk that errors will be introduced, in spite of dedicated proof reading.
If you have any problems with this pattern, please and I will try and assist.

Posted by Christina | Permalink

A Little Aran Dress

Cute little dress for small girls in a traditional Aran pattern executed in double knitting weight yarn - so not quite so thick.

Instructions.

3 sizes - larger sizes are given between brackets -
eg Small [Medium, Large].

Front

Using No 8 (4mm) needles, cast on 92 [102, 112] stitches and work 7 rows in kl/pl rib.
Next row (hemline row): Knit to end.

Commence Pattern.

1st row (right side facing)): k17 [20, 23]; p2, k6, p2, k1tbl, (p1, k1tbl) 3 [4, 5] times; p1, knit the 2nd stitch on the left hand needle, then knit first stitch - called T2R -, p1; (k1, p1, k1 into the next stitch, p3) 4 times; p1, knit the 2nd stitch on the left hand needle tbl, then knit first stitch - called T2L -, p1; k1tbl (p1, k1tbl) 3 [4, 5] times; p2, k6, p2, k17 [20, 23].
2nd Row: p17 [20, 23]; k2, p6, k2, p1, (k1tbl, p1) 3 [4, 5] times, k1, p2, k1, (p3tog, k3) 4 times, k1, p2, k1, p1, (k1tbl, p1) 3 [4, 5] times, k2, p6, k2; p17 [20, 23].
3rd Row: k17 [20, 23]; p2, k6, p2, k1tbl, (p1, k1tbl) 3 [4, 5] times, p1, T2R, p1, (p3, then k1 p1, k1 into the next stitch) 4 times, p1, T2L, p1, k1tbl, (p1, k1tbl) 3 [4, 5] times, p2, k6, p2, k17 [20, 23].
4th Row: p17 [20, 23]; k2, p6, k2, p1, (k1tbl, p1) 3 [4, 5] times, k1, p2, k1, (k3, p3tog) 4 times, k1, p2, k1, p1, (k1tbl, p1) 3 [4, 5] times, k2, p6, k2, p17 [20, 23].
5th Row: as 1st row.
6th Row: as 2nd row.
7th Row: p17 [20, 23], p2, slip the next 3 stitches on to a cable needle and hold at back of work, knit 3 stitches, then knit 3 from cable needle - called C6B -, p2, k1tbl, (p1, k1tbl) 3 [4, 5] times, p1, T2R, p1, (p3, then k1, p1, k1 into the next stitch) 4 times, p1, T2L, p1, k1tbl, (p1, k1tbl) 3 [4, 5] times, p2, slip the next 3 stitches on to a cable needle and hold at front of work, k3 stitches then k3 from cable needle - called C6F -, p2, p17 [20, 23].
8th Row: p17 [20, 23], k2, p6, k2, p1, (k1tbl, p1) 3 [4, 5] times, k1, p2, k1, (k3, p3tog) 4 times, k1, p2, k1, (p1, k1tbl) 3 [4, 5] times, p1, k2, p6, k2, p17 [20, 23].

These 8 rows form the pattern.
Keeping pattern correct, decrease one stitch at each end of the next and every following 10th row until 80 [88, 96] stitches remain.

Continue without shaping until works measures 11½ [13, 15½] inches from hemline, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape armholes: by casting off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Decrease one stitch at each end of the next 3 [4, 5] rows, then at each end of the following alternate row. 64 [70, 76] stitches.

Continue without shaping until armhole measures 3 [3½, 4] inches from the beginning, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape neck:
Next Row: pattern 20 [22, 24]. Turn.
Leave remaining stitches on a holder or spare needle.
Complete this side first, by decreasing one stitch at the neck edge on the next and every following alternate row until 16 [18, 20] stitches remain, ending at the armhole edge.

Shape shoulder:
Cast off at the beginning of the next and following alternate row 4 [5, 6] stitches once and 12 [13, 14] stitches once.

With right side of work facing, slip the first 24 [26, 28] stitches on to a holder for the centre front neck, and rejoin the yarn to the remaining stitches. Complete to match the first side, reversing shaping.

Back

Work as given for the Front until armhole shaping is completed.
Continue without shaping until armholes measure the same as the front to the shoulder, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape shoulders:
Cast off at the beginning of the next and every row 4 [5, 6] stitches twice, and then 12 [13, 14] stitches twice.
Leave the remaining 32 [34, 36] stitches on a holder for centre back neck.